The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Bordeaux region of France. In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography,
climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I
also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class
(FWS – 06 Bordeaux).
The Viticultural
History of Bordeaux
Bordeaux
has been a wine region for almost 2000 years as the Romans were the first to
plant vineyards (around 43 A.D.). While the quality of the wines was recognized
as early as 71 A.D. by such people as Pliny the Elder, they were only consumed
locally. Since then there are been significant historical stages in the
development of wine region.
In the
12th century Bordeaux became an important international region
when Henry II of England married Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152 A.D. At that time
Bordeaux came under the control of the British Empire and it would continue for
the next 300 years. The name Bordeaux derives from the French au bord de
l'eau which means “along the waters” which refers to Gironde estuary and
its tributaries, the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers which play a pivotal role
in the history and success of this region. Britain was a sea-fairing empire
which sold France’s wines throughout Europe so Bordeaux’s immediate access to
the ocean via the rivers, which also have an impact on the climate of the
region, played an important part of the international success.
During
the 13th century, the Graves was the principal wine region of Bordeaux. While
there were some vines growing in the Entre-Deux-Mers, Saint-Émilion and Blaye,
during this time the Médoc was essentially a swamp.
In the
17th century Dutch traders began to drain the marshland around the Médoc and
encouraged the planting of vineyards. The Dutch would also open new
distribution channels to the Bourgeosis.
In the 18th century a merchant class
emerged with the resources to store and sell wine on a commercial scale. Traditionally,
négociants acted as one type of intermediary, buying fruit or wine in
barrel to age in their own cellars before selling the bottled wine. Courtiers—brokers
of wine—became a powerful force in the Médoc, supplying the châteaux with
financial backing while gaining total control over the actual trade of wine.
While the négociants faded in influence after World War II with the
rising appeal of estate bottling, the courtiers of Bordeaux maintain
their authority over the trade, and are responsible for the current method of en
primeur sales, the yearly offering of Bordeaux wine as futures. Today Bordeaux is one of the world’s most
important fine wine regions. It is the second largest producer in France.
Geography of Bordeaux
Bordeaux is located in the southwest
quadrant of France and is divided by the Gironde River into the “Left” and
“Right” banks of the river. However, I believe it would be more accurate to
refer to them as the “West” and “East” banks. After all, we don’t refer to
California as being on the “Left Coast” and New York as being on the “Right
Coast”, do we? But for the sake of harmony with all other resourses on Bordeaux
I’ll use the “Left” and “Right” bank designations. In this study, we’ll look
at the Médoc
and Graves on the Left Bank as well as the Libournais and
the Entre-Deux-Mers
on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. The Bordeaux region covers 100 km (63 miles) from
north to south and 125 km (78 miles) from east to west with 118,800 hectares
(306,000 acres)
of vineyard producing Red,
white, rosé, sweet, and sparkling wines.
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Climate of Bordeaux
Bordeaux has a
maritime climate due to the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary but it
becomes more continental toward St-Émilion and Pomerol on the right bank. The ocean’s
gulf stream warms and moderates the temperatures which can protect the vines from
winter freezes and spring frost. There is also the Les Landes, a 1 million hectare (2.5 million acre) planted pine
forest which provides a barrier from the strong ocean winds and storms. The
region receives about 33 inches of rain per year which is quite a bit when
compared to compared to the Napa Valley which receives less than 24 inches
per year. Consequently irrigation is not needed nor is it allowed. Bordeaux
has numerous rivers which feed into the Gironde Estuary which also help to
moderate the climate. In the south end of Bordeaux is the Entre-Deux-Mers
which is flanked by the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers. Bordeaux tends to have a
moderate Winter,
but it can have severe freezes such as in 1956 which destroyed ¼ of the
vineyards in Bordeaux. The Spring
in Bordeaux is wet which can bring frost and humidity that can result in
severe problems with mold, rot
and lead to coulure
and millerandage, reducing the eventual yield.[1]
To counteract this malady vignerons apply what is known as the “Bordeaux
mixture” a blend of lime, copper sulfate, and water. The
Summer
in Bordeaux is quite warm and sunny but there may also be a lot of cloud
cover due to the ocean and grapes can struggle to ripen. Autumn
in Bordeaux can receive rain which can endanger vineyards with humidity and
rot and cause grapes to swell. But
in the sweet wine districts of Graves it can beneficial for the development
of noble rot, but in cooler years it may develop into grey rot which can damage
the fruit. Consequently, Bordeaux can have
greater vintage variation than other Bordeaux and Merlot producing regions
such as the Napa Valley. [2]
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Soils of Bordeaux
One of the key features that
distinguishes the West and East side of the Gironde which divides the Left
and Right sides of Bordeaux is the differences in soil. The left bank
tends to have more Gravel and Sand (particularly in the Medoc) and when the
soils become warmed by the sun they radiate heat up into the vine canopy which
makes it the best soil for Cabernet Sauvignon. On the right bank
there is more Clay and Limestone, dense soils that retain a lot of moisture,
and tend to be more favorable to Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The limestone
enables these grapes to produce wines with more acidity and more refined
tannins such as those from Saint-Émilion.
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Viniculture of Bordeaux
Most Bordeaux dry white wines
are stainless steel fermented and do not spend time in oak or undergo malolactic
fermentation. In Bordeaux the blend of the wine, encépagement, is
important because some the different vines flower and are harvested at
different times. For example, Cabernet Sauvignon may avoid late
spring frosts that can be hazardous for Merlot which buds later, but the
Cabernet Sauvignon may suffer from heavy Autumn rain whereas Merlot ripens
earlier and will have already been harvested. This provides Bordeaux a form of insurance as it can
rely on either more Merlot on cooler and wetter years or use more Cabernet
Sauvignon in better vintages.
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Primary AOC/AOP White Grapes of Bordeaux
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Sauvignon
Blanc
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Makes up 55% of white plantings, it offers pungency, high acidity, and
citrus flavors.
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Semillon
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Makes up 34% of white plantings, blended with Sauvignon Blanc it is often rounded with oak; the
best white wines (whether dry or off-dry) achieve creamy, waxy texture while
emitting unique aromas of honey and beeswax.
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Muscadelle
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Makes up 7% of white plantings, it is added sparingly, as intense
floral character can quickly overtake the wine’s balance.[3]
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Secondary AOC/AOP White Grapes of Bordeaux
The following are restricted
to a maximum proportion of 30% in any white wine blend.
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Ugni
Blanc
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Merlot
Blanc
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Colombard
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Chenin
Blanc
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Folle
Blanche
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Mauzac
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Ondenc
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AOC/AOP Red Wine Grapes of Bordeaux
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Merlot
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Makes up 60% of red plantings it is the most widely planted grape in
Bordeaux and the earliest grape to ripen, prefers clay-based soils, as they
delay its natural vigor. In the blend it contributes a fleshy, juicy texture
that can soften the austerity of Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Cabernet
Sauvignon
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Makes up 26% of red plantings, it performs best in well-drained
gravel, which allows the vine’s root system to dig deeply while slight water
stress adds concentration to the fruit. The grape has difficulty ripening in
colder limestone and clay soils. It is highly pigmented and tannic which
gives the blend structure, power, and longevity.
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Cabernet
Franc
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Makes up 12% of red plantings, it does best in limestone-based soils, which promote
acidity and freshness in the wines. It is a more tannic grape than Merlot but
less muscular or weighty than Cabernet Sauvignon and it imparts herbal spice
and red fruit aromatics in the blend.
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The next 3 grapes collectively comprise only 2% of the red
grapes of Bordeaux
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Malbec
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Known
as Pressac on the
Right Bank, Auxerrois or Côt Noir in
Cahors. In the winter of 1956 the temperature dropped to -26°C (-15°F) and killed
many of the Malbec plantings after which most of it was not replanted. Instead,
vignerons replanted with Merlot. Malbec, performs similarly to Merlot
in the blend but is infrequently encountered in Bordeaux. Malbec
now thrives in Cahor in Southern France and in the Mendozza in Argentina.
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Petit Verdot
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The
last grape in Bordeaux to ripen, it is occasionally added on the Left Bank in
minute quantities for color, depth and exotic aromas. It is essentially
non-existent on the Right Bank.
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Carmenère
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The name “Carménère” originates from the French word for
crimson (carmin) which refers to the brilliant crimson color of the
autumn foliage prior to leaf-fall. Most of the Carmenère can be found in Pauillac at
Chateau Mouton
Rothschild and Chateau Clerc
Milon. But
the grape is virtually extinct in the region and is more commonly found in
Chile in South America. In fact only 4 hectares (about 10 acres) of Carmenère
remains in Bordeaux. Château
Clerc Milon (classified as a Fifth Growth) has
the largest plantings in the entire appellation with 1% of their vines
devoted to Carmenère which were planted in 1947.[4]
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Bordeaux AOC Required Yields
Although regulations stipulate
a minimum level of alcohol today it is a non-issue as wines are typically
over 12% abv.
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AOC
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Maximum Yield
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Minimum Alcohol
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Bordeaux AOC White
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4 tons per acre
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10%
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Bordeaux AOC Red
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3.6 tons per acre
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10.5%
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Bordeaux Supérieur White
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2.9 tons per acre
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11 %
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Bordeaux Supérieur Red
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3.5 tons per acre
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11%
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Types Bordeaux AOCs
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Communal
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Examples Margaux, St-Estèphe,
Pessac-Leognan, Barsac, Sauternes, Saint-Emillion, Pomerol, Fronsac.
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Regional
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Examples include Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux Clairet, and Bordeaux Rosé.
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Sub-Regional
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Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux Haut-Benauge, Côtes de Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire, Côtes de Blaye.
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The Bordeaux Left Bank
Médoc AOCs/AOPs
There are 12 AOCs/AOPs in the Médoc which are as follows:
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1. Médoc AOC
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The
Médoc terroir stretches along the left bank of the Garonne River that covers
the northern section of the viticultural strip along the Médoc peninsula. The
zone is sometimes referred to as the Bas-Médoc (Low-Médoc), though this term
is not permitted on any label. The term “Médoc” is often used in a
geographical sense to refer to the whole Left Bank region, and as defined by
the original INAO. The area covers approximately 5,700 hectares (14,085 acres)
of declared vineyards, constituting 34.5% of the Médoc total, annually
producing on average 300,000 hectoliters (7,900,000+ Gallons) of wine. The
soils consist of Garonne gravel, Pyrenees gravel and clay limestone as well
as heavy, clay-rich, moisture-retentive soils better suited for Merlot grape
than Cabernet Sauvignon. About 50% of the viticultural area is planted with
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and to a lesser extent Petit Verdot and Malbec
(“Côt”).[5]
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2. Haut-Médoc AOC
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Haut-Médoc
is a sub-appellation of the Médoc AOC. Originally it was a vast region of
salt marshes used for animal grazing rather than viticulture. In the 17th
century, Dutch merchants drained marshland along the Gironde and converted it
into land suitable for planting vineyards in order to provide the British an
alternative to the Graves and Portuguese wines that were dominating the
market. Soon the Bordeaux wine regions of Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and
Saint-Estèphe were formed. The area covers approximately 4,600 hectares (11,366
acres) of declared vineyards, constituting 28.5% of the Médoc total, annually
producing on average 255,000 hectolitres (674,000 gallons) of wine. About 52%
of the viticultural area is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, with additional
cultivation of Merlot, Petit Verdot and to a small degree Malbec (“Cot”), Cabernet
Franc and Carménère.[6]
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3. St-Estèphe AOC
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The AOC is named after the St-Estèphe commune and is the
northernmost of the six communal appellations in Médoc. The sol de grave
(a soil type containing a mixture of gravels, clay and sand), shared by all
Médoc AOCs, contains a slightly higher proportion of clay in this particular
area. It has 1,230 hectares (3,000 acres) of under vine and on average it
produces about 8.7 million bottles per year by 136 different vignerons, 80 of
them are members of cooperatives and 56 are private estates. It is home to
five classified growths of 1855 (Grands Crus Classés en 1855).
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4. Pauillac AOC
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This AOC is located within the Haut-Médoc centered on the small town of Pauillac from it takes
its name. It is sandwiched between St-Estèphe to the north and St-Julien to the south along the Gironde
Estuary with the Haut-Médoc, the commune of St Sauveur and the Landes Forest to
the west. It is home to 3 of the 5 First Growths (Premier Cru) of Bordeaux: Châteaux Latour, Châteaux Lafite
Rothschild and Châteaux Mouton Rothschild. Cabernet Sauvignon is the
predominant grape but Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec are
permitted although they will not necessarily be included.[7]
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5. St-Julien AOC
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The
AOC is one of the six communal appellations in Médoc located between the
Margaux and Pauillac appellations and is named after the
Saint-Julien-Beychevelle commune. The vineyards are planted on a bed of
sedimentary rock with gravel and pebble surface soil. It produces the same
grapes as its neighboring AOCs. The maximum permitted yield per hectare is 45
hectolitres (approx. 39 barrels) wherever the density of planting is between
6,500 and 10,000 vines per hectare. This appellation is traditionally divided
into two areas. The southern wines tend to be softer and more like the
Margaux wines whereas the northern wines tend to be more robust and powerful such
as the Léoville wines whose vineyards border the vineyards of Latour and thus
have more in common with the wines of Pauillac.
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6. Margaux AOC
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This
AOC is the southernmost appellation
in the Médoc and borders the Landes Forest is to the west. The soil is the
thinnest in the Médoc, with
the highest proportion of gravel. It is home to one First Growth (premier cru), which bears the same
name, Château Margaux. It also contains 21 cru classé châteaux, more than any
other commune in Bordeaux. Cabernet Sauvignon is the predominant grape but
the other Bordeaux varietals are allowed. Margaux has 1413 hectares (3491acres)
of under vine, making it the second largest appellation in the Haut-Médoc
after Saint-Estèphe. The vines ripen 7–10 days before the rest of
the Médoc.[8]
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7. Moulis-en-Médoc AOC
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The AOC is named after the small village of Moulis-en-Medoc in the Haut-Medoc, it is adjacent
to the Listrac-Médoc AOC and it has no classified growths. The wines must be
made from grapes grown in specific plots in the parishes of Arcins, Avensan,
Castelnau, Cussac, Lamarque and Listrac. The vineyard densities must be between
6500 and 10,000 plants per hectare (2631–4048 per acre) and the yield must
not exceed 45hL per hectare. The best soils of Moulis consist of a mixture of
clay and limestone, allowing for the production of some high-quality wines based
on Cabernet Sauvignon. However, the vineyards do not have proportions of
gravel found in Margaux or Graves.
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8. Listrac-Médoc AOC
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It
is located adjacent to the Moulis-en-Medoc AOC and it has no classified
growths. The land consists of limestone and clay soils (rather than the more
beneficial gravel and clay), and is a little further from the
temperature-moderating influences of the Gironde estuary. The community has a
total surface area of 700 hectares (about 1729 acres) of vineyards planted to
shallow soils so vine roots do not run very deep.[9]
The dominate grape is Cabernet Sauvignon but the other Bordeaux varietals are
also allowed. The vineyard densities must be between 6500 and 10,000 plants
per hectare (2631–4048 per acre) and the yield must not exceed 45hL per
hectare. Well known wineries include Château Clarke, Château Fonréaud,
Chateau Fourcas-Dupre, Chateau Fourcas-hosting and Château Peyre-Lebade.
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Graves and Sauternais AOCs/AOPs
There are 6 AOCs/AOPs in the Graves which are as follows:
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1. Graves AOC
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The district is
located southeast of the city Bordeaux and stretches over 50 kilometers (31
miles). Like the Medoc, the vineyards are planted on gravel soils (graves)
which gives the region its name but they have more sand toward the south. This
mixture of sand, gravel and light clay is known as boulbenes. It is
the only district producing both Grand Cru white (Semillon, Sauvignon
Blanc and Muscadelle.) and red wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Cabernet
Franc, etc.). Unlike the Médoc appellations, both red and dry white wines may
be labeled as Graves AOC/AOP. White wine accounts for about 25% of
production. The region now has 13 estates classified as cru classé for
red wines and 9 for white wines. There are 16 châteaux but now Château La
Tour Haut-Brion (classified for red wine) produced its final vintage in 2005 and
Château Laville Haut-Brion (classified for white wine) produced its final
vintage in 2008. Both properties now supply fruit for a second red wine and a
new white wine under the Château La Mission Haut-Brion label.
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2. Graves Supérieures AOC
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The
AOC is an appellation for sweet white wine covering the same area as Graves
AOC. The wines are generally considered less refined than those of Cérons
AOC. About 500 hectares (1,200 acres) of vineyards were dedicated to the
production of Graves Supérieures.
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3. Pessac-Léognan AOC
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Established
as an AOC in 1987, as the communal sub-appellation in northern Graves, it effectively
become the prestige appellation for both red and dry white wines while
sidelining the producers of the southern Graves. All cru classé properties
are located within the communes of Pessac-Léognan AOP: Pessac, Léognan,
Cadaujac, Canéjan, Gradignan, Martillac, Mérignac, Saint-Médard-d'Eyrans,
Talence, and Villenave-d'Ornons.
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4. Sauternes AOC
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The
Sauternes region is located 40 km (25 miles) southeast of the city of
Bordeaux along the Garonne river and its tributary, the Ciron. The area sits
on an alluvial plain with sandy and limy soils.[10]
This appellation of Graves produces intensely sweet, white, dessert wines from
late harvested Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle that have Botrytis
cinerea (“Noble Rot”), the most well-known is the Premier Cru
Supérieur classified Château d'Yquem.
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5. Barsac AOC
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Wines
produced in the commune of Barsac, such as Premiers Crus Château
Climens and Château Coutet, are allowed to be labeled either with the commune
name (as Barsac AOC) or with Sauternes. In the autumn, the Ciron river
produces mist that descends upon the area and persists until after dawn.
These conditions are conducive to the growth of the fungus, which desiccates
the grape and concentrates the sugars inside.
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6. Cérons
AOC
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An
appellation for sweet white wines of similar style as Sauternes and Barsac
but there are no classified properties so they tend to be more affordable. The
primary reason for this is its inferior terrior. The vineyards region
experiences less chance of the morning mists required for the development of
botrytis and it has a flatter landscape that is less able to trap the mist which
deprives Cerons’ vignerons of the various mesoclimates found around
Sauternes. Also the appellation laws allow higher yields than those of
Sauternes or Barsac which decreases the incentive for the local vignerons to
strive for quality over quantity in their harvest. However, the wines are
considered superior to those of Graves Supérieures AOC of which Cérons
effectively is an enclave.[11]
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The Bordeaux Right Bank
The Libournais
The principal city on the Right Bank of the Dordogne and
Gironde is Lisbourne and the wine regions surrounding it are referred to as the
Libournais. Whereaas Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominate grape in the blend in
good vintages on the Left Bank, Merlot is the dominate red grape on the right
bank regardless of the vintage.
The Libournais AOCs
There are 10 AOCs/AOPs on the Libournais which
are as follows:
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1. St-Émilion AOC
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Established in 1954, it covers the same area of production as the
St-Émilion Grand Cru AOC but the
latter has restrictor production standards. Most of the soils are
limestone and clay but there are also pockets of sand along the river similar
to Pomerol. There are 4
satellite appellations for St-Émilion: Lussac, St-Georges, Montagne, and
Puisseguin. Pomerol’s neighboring red wine districts include Lalande-de-Pomerol
AOP, which contains the communes of Lalande-de-Pomerol and Néac, Fronsac AOP,
and Canon-Fronsac AOP.
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2. St-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
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Established in 1954, the AOC has 5 quality control differences
that are more restrictive than St-Émilion
AOC.
(1) The
vineyard yield is restricted to 8,000 kg per hectare rather than 9,000 (which
translates to 55 hL per hectare rather than 65).
(2) The
grapes (with the significant exception of Merlot) must be harvested with a
must weight of at least 189 grams of sugar per liter rather than 180.
(3) The
finished wine must reach a minimum alcohol level of 11.5% ABV rather than
11%.
(4) The
wine must be stored by the producer for an extra 14 months before being
released for sale.
(5)
The wine must pass a tasting panel twice before being approved for the AOC.[12]
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3. Pomerol AOC
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Established
as an AOC in 1936, the Pomerol AOC is located just north of the city of
Liborne south of Lalande-de-Pomerol, northwest of Saint-Émilion and east of
Fronsac. Whereas other AOCs are named after the central town, Pomerol is
named after a church. It is the smallest of the major fine wine regions in
Bordeaux, covering an area that is roughly 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) wide by 4
kilometers (2.5 miles) long. The dominate red grape is Merlot with Cabernet Franc
playing a supporting role.
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4. Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC
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Located just north of Pomerol,
the two main villages of the appellation are Lalande-de-Pomerol (from which
the AOC takes its name) and Néac. The vineyards of Néac are planted on clay
and gravelly soil more commonly seen in neighboring Pomerol, while the vineyards
of Lalande are planted on soil containing more sand. The wines are based on
Merlot, but may also contain Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec.
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5. Fronsac AOC
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It is located close to the northern bank of the Dordogne
river, just a few miles to the west of Libourne. Wines labeled Fronsac or
Canon-Fronsac must be made from grapes grown some distance from the alluvial
soils close to the banks of the Dordogne. It is the slightly higher land
beginning just a few hundred meters to the north that produces the better
vines. The soils here are composed more of sandstone and limestone than clay,
giving the vines a certain resistance to hotter weather. In vintages like
2003, when the temperatures in August regularly exceeded 104°F
(40°C), grapes grown in Fronsac produced
better-balanced wines than other, more-famous Bordeaux appellations. Merlot
is the dominant grape in Fronsac and is regularly paired with Cabernet Franc.[13]
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6. Canon-Fronsac AOC
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The AOC is encompassed by the wider Fronsac appellation. The
wines are theoretically superior to those of the Fronsac appellation. It has
a slightly elevation at the appellation’s northern end, away from the
alluvial soils by the Dordogne, that produces the best wines. The soils here
are more sandstone and limestone than clay, which lends the vines a certain
resistance to hotter weather. The wines are made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Malbec grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon is also permitted but they do not often
achieve the desired ripeness.[14]
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The following are St-Émilion Satellite AOCs:
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7. St-George-St-Émilion AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1936, it is located north of Saint-Émilion and is part of
Montagne commune. It consists of 192 hectares (470 acres) of vine planted
areas with an annual average production of 9,333 hl of wine. Merlot
is the dominant grape (75%
of the planted area) but the other Bordeaux red varietals may also be included.
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8. Lussac-St-Émilion
AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1936, it is located about 45 kilometers (28 miles)
from city of Bordeaux or 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) from the village of
Saint-Émilion. A total of 900 hectares (2,200 acres) are under vine managed
by 95 independent vineyard owners. The AOC has a diversity of soils
distributed between the plateaus, the sides of the hills and small valleys.
To the south-east, the slopes are clayey-limestone, similar in nature to
those in the St-Émilion appellation. To the west, there is a narrow elevated
gravel and sandy-gravel plateau and to the north, cold clayey soil or heavy
clay is predominant. To the east, the subsoil consists of limestone beds
which made excellent quarries for extracting soft building stone. To the
north-west, there are a few stone quarries, as well as ferruginous sand (containing or resembling iron rust) or clay. Merlot
is the dominant grape but the other Bordeaux red varietals may also be
included.
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9. Montagne-St-Émilion
AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1936, it consists of 1,570 hectares (3,900 acres) under
vine with an average annual production of 74,130 hl. Merlot
is the dominant grape but the other Bordeaux red varietals may also be
included.
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10. Puisseguin-St-Émilion
AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1936, it consists of 753 hectares (1,860 acres) under
vine with an average annual production of a production of 34,648 hl. Merlot
is the dominant grape but the other Bordeaux red varietals may also be
included.
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Viticultural History of Entre-Deux-Mers
The name Entre-Deux-Mers
means “between two seas” and is located south and due east of the city of
Bordeaux located between two bodies of water, the Garonne and the Dordogne Rivers.
Most of Entre-Deux-Mers consists of 10,000 hectares (24,710 acres) of land most
of which is forestland that is not suitable for growing grapes. With
time the two rivers have left sand, gravel and clay coats on the soil that
mingle with more ancient limestone rock and offer an inimitable diversity of
soil varieties. The vineyard is located on high lands cut by numerous streams
that formed the hills. The
appellation has 2,400 hectares (5930 acres) under vine and with about 250
different producers. Most estates in the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation are large,
as each chateau has on average close to 60 hectares (148 acres) under vine. The
region produces about 1 million cases of wine per year.
The earliest
vines were planted in the region during the gallo-roman colonization, but it
was the Christian monks of the Middle Age who truly cultivated the land. In
1079 the Abbey of La Sauve Majeure was founded by Gérard de Corbie. The
Benedictine monks cleared the “silva major” forest and planted the vines, improved
the cultural methods and then established a privileged trade with England. Soon
the Abbey expanded its influence. A century after its foundation 76 priories
depended on the Abbey of La Sauve Majeure. At the end of the 13th and beginning
of the 14th century the first fortified cities (bastides) emerged from this
region of the English Aquitaine, of the Plantagenêts: Monségur (1265),
Sauveterre, Pellegrue, Blasimon, Créon (1312). These fortified cities are still
today the core of the historical personality of the Entre-deux-Mers.”[15]
The Entre-Deux-Mers AOCs
There are 10 AOCs/AOPs with the Entre-Deux-Mers which are as follows:
|
|
1. Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
|
Established
1937 for the dry white wines, the dominant grape is Sauvignon Blanc grape,
with Sémillon and Muscadelle playing supporting roles.
|
2. Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge AOC
|
Appellation for dry
white wines produced primarily from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle
(70%) plus Merlot Blanc (max 30%), Colombard, Mauzac and Ugni Blanc (max 10%).
|
3. Bordeaux-Haut- Benague AOC
|
Located above the Premiere Côtes across the river from Cerons. It produces dry,
sweet and medium-Sweet whites from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.
|
4. Cadillac
AOC
|
This
AOC is named after the town of Cadillac after which the famous car brand was also named in honor
of Antoine de la Mothe (1658-1730), founder of the locally born gave the auto
city of Detroit and later governor of Louisiana. The
AOC produces sweet Botrytised white wines. The dominant grape is Sémillon (70%), followed by Sauvignon
Blanc, Sauvignon Gris (20%) and Muscadelle (10%). The wine must
have a minimum 12% abv., but cannot exceed 19%, and have at least 51 grams of
residual sugar per liter.
|
5. Loupiac
AOC
|
The AOC is located 30
km (18 miles) south-east of Bordeaux
city located between Cadillac and Sainte-Croix-du-Mont and just across the
river from the Sauternes and Barsac AOCs. The AOC comprises 400 hectares (about
988 acres) of vineyards on clay limestone soil on the right bank of the
Garonne. Like its neighbors (Cadillac and St.-Croix-du-Mont) the Loupiac produces sweet Botrytised white wines
made from Sémillon, Sauvignon
Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. The best vineyards are
planted on the slopes above the banks of the Garonne which are composed of a
mixture of clay and limestone.
|
6. Sainte-Croix-Du-Mont
AOC
|
The AOC is located on the right bank of the Garonne river and extends
over 500 hectares (1,200 acres). Vineyards are planted on clay and limestone hills that surround city
and head towards river. Like its neighbors it produces
sweet Botrytised white wines made from Sémillon,
Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle.
|
7. Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux-AOC
|
The
AOC is named after the village Sainte-Foy located in the east side of the
Entre-Deux-Mers adjacent to Bergerac. The small area comprises 250 hectares (about
618 acres) and produces sweet white wines from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and
Muscadelle, and a maximum of 10% Merlot Blanc, Colombard, Ugni Blanc and
Mauzac. The red wines are made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,
Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
|
8. Graves
de Vayres AOC
|
It
covers 700 hectares (1,700 acres) across the Vayres and Arveyres communes.
Around 40 producers tend the gravelly soil found on the left bank of the
Dordogne River, on a geomorphic system of alluvial terraces. This terrace
system is evidence that the Dordogne River sunk within the valley during the
last Ice Age. Smallholdings, ranging from 0.67 hectares (1.7 acres) to around
60 hectares (150 acres) in area, only exist in the Vayres commune and the
plateau of its neighboring commune, Arveyres. The limits of this appellation
area were defined in 1936, by the gravel, sandy-gravel, clay-gravel and
silty-gravel soils found along the path of the Dordogne, because of their
potential qualities. Dry white Graves de Vayres wines are made from 100%
Sauvignon grapes. These wines are fresh, lively, and perfumed with floral
notes and hints of citrus fruit. Barrel-fermented wines made with 100%
Sémillon grapes are characterized by their slick, buttery, and rich, rounded
texture. The sweet moelleux variety of Graves de Vayres is made from
100% Sémillon grapes, which are harvested only when they are over-ripe. This
gives sweet and honey notes, and a wine pale yellow in color. The majority of
dry white Graves de Vayres is in fact composed of a blend of 70% Sauvignon,
20-25% Sémillion and 5-10% Muscadelle grapes.[16]
|
9. Côtes de Bordeaux Saint Macaire AOC
|
The
appeal lies to the south of the large area Entre-Deux-Mers (Bordeaux) and
forms the southern extension of the AC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. The
appellation is designed for 2,300 hectares (about 5,683 acres) of vineyard,
but it used to be only 30 acres in ten municipalities. It applies to sweet
and noble sweet white wines from the varieties Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and
Muscadelle. The more important red wines are produced under the Bordeaux or
Bordeaux Supérieur AC's. In the immediate neighborhood are the three
appellations Cadillac - Cotes de Bordeaux and Loupiac.[17]
|
10. Premieres
Côtes de
Bordeaux AOC
|
The AOC extends 60 km (40 miles) along the right bank of the
Garonne river, just before it passes the city of Bordeaux city en route to
the Atlantic Ocean. The south-eastern end of this long, thin appellation
extends to the very south of the Bordeaux region. Close to the Garonne river
(where some patches of land are able to claim only the Bordeaux AOC title),
the soils are gravelly and high in chalky clay, but the soil types vary as
they move further away from the river. The wines produced under the Premieres
Cotes de Bordeaux title are mostly red and are based on Merlot
and Cabernet Franc. Dry white wines made here from Semillon and Sauvignon
Blanc are labeled AC Bordeaux, as they are not regarded as being of
sufficient quality to carry the more specific Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux
title. More than 30 individual communes contribute to its output, with names
like Beguey, Langoiran, Le Tourne, Rions and Paillet being added to their
wine labels.[18]
|
The Côtes
The word “Côtes”
in French means “slope” and the vineyards are planted on west-facing slopes to
the rivers or right bank of the estuary. The soil on all of these slopes
consists of clay and limestone and the vineyards are planted primarily to Merlot
and Cabernet Franc.[19]
The Côtes AOCs
There are 7 AOCs/AOPs on the Right Bank which
are as follows:
|
|
1. Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux
|
Located
on the Right Bank of the Garonne within the sub-region of Entre-Deux-Mers. This
northern section of the AOC produces red whereas the southern produces
semi-sweet and sweet white wines. Pockets of gravel enable vignerons to plant
a significant amount of Cabernet Sauvignon but Merlot dominates. White wines
are a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.
|
2. Côtes de Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire AOC
|
Located
on the Right Bank of the Garonne within the sub-region of Entre-Deux-Mers. This
AOC produces dry, semi-sweet and sweet white wines from Sémillon, Sauvignon
Blanc and Muscadelle. The soils consist of limestone, clay-limestone and
clay-sand composites.[20]
|
3. Côtes de Bourg AOC
|
Bourg
is located 20 km (12 miles) north-west of Bordeaux, on the Right Bank of the Gironde
Estuary and Garrone River with an average altitude of 20 m above sea level. Vineyards
are planted on clay and limestone soils as well as a mosaic of sand and
gravel in the area around Pugnac. Merlot (70%) and Malbec are widely
cultivated on Sienna-red Quaternary alluvium. Merlot and Cabernet are planted
on clay and sandy gravel soils while Merlot is also grown on the widespread
areas of clay and limestone. Approximately 200 Chateaux producers in the
appellation produces red wines from Merlot and Cabernet Franc as well as
white wines from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc plus Muscadelle, Merlot Blanc, Ugni
Blanc and Colombard.
|
3. Blaye AOC
|
This
AOC is located on the Right Banks of the Gironde Estuary and the Dordogne
River and shares the same production area as Côtes de Blaye AOC and Premieres
Côtes de Blaye. The vineyards are planted on a mix of soils including sandy
gravel, clay and limestone most of which is planted to Merlot. Due to its
proximity to the Charente department (Cognac), Ugni Blanc comprises 90% of
the white blend with Colimbard, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle and
Chenin Blanc completing the blend.[21]
|
4. Côtes de Blaye AOC
|
This AOC is a large region with more than 6,600 hectares (about
16,309 acres) under vine. Due to its large size, Côtes de
Blaye has a wide array of terroirs and soils, ranging from limestone and clay
hillsides, to soils with more gravel, sand and chalk. The appellation
produces dry white wines made from 60-90% Colombard with the balance
consisting of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. Red wines are
produced from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. In total, 40 different
communes make up the sizable appellation.
|
5. Premieres Côtes de Blaye AOC
|
Established
as in 2009. The vineyards are located north of Bordeaux opposite of the
Medoc. It consists of about 6,700 hectares and produces about 310,000 hl per
year. The vineyards are planted on complex soils from
the limestone hills in the clay-limestone soil made of sand and gravel.
This AOC produces red wines that a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Cabernet Sauvignon. White wines are a blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard along
with secondary varieties.[22]
|
6. Côtes de Castillon AOC
|
Established as an AOC in 1989, the region takes its name from
the famous battle of Castillon battle, which was fought in 1453. Centered
close to the Castillon la Bataille, that deadly fight helped end the hundred
years war between England and France. The AOC produces only red wine, based
on Merlot and
Cabernet Franc and about
10% Cabernet Sauvignon as well as a
small amount of Small of Malbec, Petit
Verdot and Carmenere. Some
of the top producers include: Chateau
d’Aiguilhe, Chateau Cap de Faugeres, Chateau Clos L’Eglise, Domaine de l’A,
Chateau Clos Les Lunelles, Chateau Joanin Becot and l’Aurage.
|
7. Bordeaux Côtes
de Francs
|
Located
13 km (8 miles) north of the Dordogne River, it is closer to Bergerac than
the city of Bordeaux. The AOC is made up of three parishes - Saint-Cibard,
Tayac
and Francs. The region produces
red and white (dry and semi-sweet) from the classic Bordeaux grape varieties.[23]
|
The Bordeaux Classification System
There is a different classification system for the Left and
Right Banks of Bordeaux. The student of wine, especially if you are studying
for Certified
Sommelier exams with the Court of Master Sommeliers or the WSET exams, would be
wise if the following was intensely studied and memorized as it is one of the
most important, and perhaps overwhelming, subjects in understanding French
wine.
The
1855 Classification of the Médoc and Sauternes of Bordeaux
In 1852
Louis-Napoléon
Bonaparte (20 April 1808 – 9 January 1873) succeeded in a Coup d’Estat at which
time he became first
President of the French Second Republic and the Emperor of the Second French
Empire. He was then known as Napoleon III, the nephew and heir of the more
well-known Napoléon Bonaparte I.
Then
came one of the most important, and today perhaps one of the most
controversial, events which in France’s viticultural history - the 1855 Classification of
Bordeaux. The occasion was
the Exposition Universelle (International Exhibition) held on the
Champs-Élysées in Paris from 15 May to 15 November 1855. The event was intended
to be an industrial and art exhibition which was to be considered superior to
those of all previous exhibitions, specifically London's Great Exhibition of
1851 and attempted to surpass that fair's The Crystal Palace with its own
Palais de l'Industrie. This was not a
“Wine Exhibition”, it just so happens that a display of the wines of the Left
Bank of Bordeaux were being displayed. It also was not intended to be a
permanent classification but rather a “working document”. Nor was it
specifically an assessment of the quality of the wines of the Left Bank of
Bordeaux.[24]
The listing of the “Cru” or “Growth” was based on the highest prices.
Presumably highest prices were a reflection of demand and thus an indicator of
quality. It must also be noted that whereas in Bourgogne the ranking goes with
the vineyard (regardless as to who owns it) in Bordeaux the ranking goes with
the Château. Thus if the Château buys more vineyard land the purchased vineyard
would receive the higher classification.[25]
In later years there were a few
challenges to the ranking and changes were made to the ranking system. In 1973
when Château Mouton Rothschild was
elevated from a second growth (Deuxièmes Crus)
to a first growth (Premiers Crus) vineyard after
decades of intense lobbying by the Philippe de Rothschild.[26] The following lists are the
classifications as they stand today and at
least the first and second growths should be memorized by anyone studying for
the Certified Sommelier exams with the Court of Master Sommeliers or the WSET
exams:
Château Lafite Rothschild |
First Growth (Premier Cru)
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
1. Château Latour
|
Pauillac
|
2. Château Lafite
(now
Château Lafite Rothschild)
|
Pauillac
|
3. Château Mouton
(now
Château Mouton Rothschild)
|
Pauillac
|
4. Château Margaux
|
Margaux
|
5. Château Haut-Brion
|
Pessac,
Graves
|
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou |
Second Growth (Deuxièmes Crus)
There are 14 Second Growths:
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
1. Château
Pichon Longueville Baron
|
Pauillac
|
2. Château Pichon Longueville
Comtesse de Lalande
|
Pauillac
|
3. Château
Léoville-Las Cases
|
St.-Julien
|
4. Château
Léoville-Barton
|
St.-Julien
|
5. Château
Léoville-Poyferré
|
St.-Julien
|
6. Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
|
St.-Julien
|
7. Château Gruaud-Larose
|
St.-Julien
|
8. Château
Cos d'Estournel
|
St.-Estèphe
|
9. Château
Montrose
|
St.-Estèphe
|
10. Château Rauzan-Ségla
|
Margaux
|
11. Château Rauzan-Gassies
|
Margaux
|
12. Château
Durfort-Vivens
|
Margaux
|
13. Château
Lascombes
|
Margaux
|
14. Château
Brane-Cantenac
|
Margaux
|
Third Growth (Troisièmes Crus)
There are 15 Third Growths:
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
1. Château
Lagrange
|
St.-Julien
|
2. Château
Langoa
|
St.-Julien
|
3. Château
Calon-Ségur
|
St.-Estèphe
|
4. Château
La Lagune
|
Haut-Medoc
|
5. Château
Kirwan
|
Margaux
|
6. Château
d'Issan
|
Margaux
|
7. Château
Giscours
|
Margaux
|
8. Château
Malescot St. Exupéry
|
Margaux
|
9. Château
Cantenac-Brown
|
Margaux
|
10. Château
Boyd-Cantenac
|
Margaux
|
11. Château
Palmer
|
Margaux
|
12. Château
Desmirail
|
Margaux
|
13. Château
Dubignon
|
Margaux
|
14. Château
Ferrière
|
Margaux
|
15. Château
Marquis d'Alesme Becker
|
Margaux
|
Fourth Growths (Quatrièmes Crus)
There are 10 Fourth Growths:
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
1. Château
Saint-Pierre
|
St.-Julien
|
2. Château
Talbot
|
St.-Julien
|
3. Château
Branaire-Ducru
|
St.-Julien
|
4. Château
Beychevelle
|
St.-Julien
|
5. Château
Lafon-Rochet
|
St.-Estèphe
|
6. Château
La Tour Carnet
|
Haut-Medoc
|
7. Château
Duhart-Milon
|
Pauillac
|
8. Château
Pouget
|
Margaux
|
9. Château
Prieuré-Lichine
|
Margaux
|
10. Château
Marquis de Terme
|
Margaux
|
Fifth Growths (Cinquièmes Crus)
There are 18 Fifth Growths:
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
1. Château
Pontet-Canet
|
Pauillac
|
2. Château
Batailley
|
Pauillac
|
3. Château
Haut-Batailley
|
Pauillac
|
4. Château
Grand-Puy-Lacoste
|
Pauillac
|
5. Château
Grand-Puy-Ducasse
|
Pauillac
|
6. Château
Lynch-Bages
|
Pauillac
|
7. Château
Lynch-Moussas
|
Pauillac
|
8. Château
d'Armailhac
|
Pauillac
|
9. Château
Haut-Bages-Libéral
|
Pauillac
|
10. Château
Pédesclaux
|
Pauillac
|
11. Château
Clerc-Milon
|
Pauillac
|
12. Château
Croizet Bages
|
Pauillac
|
13. Château
Belgrave
|
Haut-Médoc
|
14. Château
Camensac
|
Haut-Médoc
|
15. Château
Cantemerle
|
Haut-Médoc
|
16. Château
Dauzac
|
Margaux
|
17. Château
du Tertre
|
Margaux
|
18. Château
Cos Labory
|
St.-Estèphe
|
The White Wines of The Gioronde
Château d'Yquem |
Superior First Growth (Premier Cru Supérieur)
There is 1 Superior First Growth:
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
Château
d'Yquem
|
Sauternes
|
First Growth (Premier Cru)
There is 11 First Growths:
|
|
Château
|
AOC/AOP
|
1. Château
La Tour Blanche
|
Sauternes
|
2. Château
Lafaurie-Peyraguey
|
Sauternes
|
3. Château
Hau-Lafaurie-Peyraguey
|
Sauternes
|
4. Château
de Rayne-Vigneau
|
Sauternes
|
5. Château
Suduiraut
|
Sauternes
|
6. Château
Guiraud
|
Sauternes
|
7. Château
Rieusec
|
Sauternes
|
8. Château
Rabaud-Promis
|
Sauternes
|
9. Château
Sigalas-Rabaud
|
Sauternes
|
10. Château
Coutet
|
Barsac
|
11. Château
Climens
|
Barsac
|
Second Growth (Deuxièmes Crus)
There is 17 Second Growths:
|
|
1. Château
D’Arche
|
Sauternes
|
2. Château
Filhot
|
Sauternes
|
3. Château
de Malle
|
Sauternes
|
4. Château
Romer
|
Sauternes
|
5. Château
de Malle
|
Sauternes
|
6. Château
Romer
|
Sauternes
|
7. Château
Romer du Hayot
|
Sauternes
|
8. Château
Lamothe
|
Sauternes
|
9. Château
Lamothe-Guignard
|
Sauternes
|
10. Château
de Myrat
|
Barsac
|
11. Château
Doisy Daëne
|
Barsac
|
12. Château
Doisy-Dubroca
|
Barsac
|
13. Château
Doisy-Védrines
|
Barsac
|
14. Château
Broustet
|
Barsac
|
15. Château
Nairac
|
Barsac
|
16. Château
Caillou
|
Barsac
|
17. Château
Suau
|
Barsac
|
The Cru Bourgeois
The Cru Bourgeois classification
lists some of the châteaux from the Médoc that were not included in the 1855
Classification of Five Classed Growths or Crus Classés. In theory, the Cru Bourgeois is a level below Cru Classé.[27]
In 1931
the first Cru Bourgeois list of 444 estates was established by the Bordeaux
Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture. In 2003 a new list of 247
châteaux was created with a substantial revision of the classification that
divided it into three tiers. The dramatic change was protested and legally
challenged by the châteaux not in included and subsequently in 2007 the list was
annulled by the French court and all use of the term was banned.[28]
In
2010, the Cru Bourgeois category was reintroduced, but without the three tiers
and the one level is awarded annually to the wine rather than to the châteaux
(as it is for the Fives Growths), on the basis of an assessment of both
production methods and the quality of the wine. Any property in the Médoc may
apply and the lists are published approximately 2 years after the vintage.
Cru Artisans
In 2006
a new category was created to recognize a small group of high quality producers
known as the Cru Artisans. It consists of 44 Cru Artisans families that own
small 105 hectare (2.5-12.5 acre) estates that create their own wines from the
vineyard to the barrel to the bottle. It
is intended that the classification will be renewed every 10 years.[29]
Graves Classification
In 1953
the Graves classification system was established and later revised in 1959. The
classification ranks 16 properties all of which are located in the Pessac-
Léognan AOC
and the bottle may be labeled either “Grand Cru Classé de
Graves” or “Cru Classé de Graves”. There are 6 estates that produce red and white,
3 estates that produce white only and 7 estates that produce red only:
Cru Classé
|
Commune
|
Color
|
1.
Château Bouscaut
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red and White Wine
|
2.
Château Carbonnieux
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red and White Wine
|
3.
Domaine de Chevalier
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red and White Wine
|
4.
Château Haut-Brion[30]
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red and White Wine
|
5.
Château Latour-Martillac
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red and White Wine
|
6.
Château Malartic-Lagravière
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red and White Wine
|
7. Château
Couhins
|
Villenave
d'Ornon
|
White Wine
|
8.
Château Couhins-Lurton
|
Villenave
d'Ornon
|
White Wine
|
9.
Château Laville Haut-Brion
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
White Wine
|
10. Château
de Fieuzal
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red Wine
|
11. Château
Haut-Bailly
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red Wine
|
12.
Château la Mission Haut-Brion
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red Wine
|
13. Château
Pape Clément
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red Wine
|
14.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red Wine
|
15.
Château La Tour Haut-Brion
|
Pessac-Léognan
|
Red Wine
|
St. Emilion Classification
St. Emilion |
In 1955
the original St. Emilion classification system was established with the
intention that it would be revised every 10 years. It is the only classification system on the Right
Bank. In the 1996 classification six properties had been elevated to the Grand Cru Classé. On July 1, 2008
the 2006 revision was declared invalid but the 6 properties that had been
elevated to Grand Cru Classé
classification were allowed to maintain their status thus the 1996 ranking was reinstated. In the
year 2012 a new classification was released as follows
2012 St. Emilion Classification
|
|||
Growths
|
Rankings
|
Number and Name of Properties
|
|
First
|
Premier
Grand Cru Classé A
|
4
|
1. Château Ausone
2. Château Angelus
3. Château Cheval Blanc
4. Château Pavie
|
Second
|
Premier
Grand Cru Classé B
|
14
|
1. Château
Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse
2. Château
Beau-Sejour Becot
3. Château
Belair-Monange
4. Château
Canon
5. Château
Canon La Gaffeliere
6. Château
Figeac
7. Château
Clos Fourtet
8. Château
La Gaffeliere
9. Château
Larcis Ducasse
10. Château
La Mondotte
11. Château
Pavie Macquin
12. Château
Troplong Mondot
13. Château
Trotte Vieille
14. Château
Valandraud
|
Third
|
Grand
Cru Classé
|
63
|
1. Château
L’Arrosee
2. Château
Balestard La Tonnelle
3. Château
Barde Haut
4. Château
Bellefont-Belcier
5. Château
Bellevue
6. Château
Berliquet
7. Château
Cadet Bon
8. Château
Cap de Mourlin
9. Château
Le Chatelet
10. Château
Chauvin
11. Château
Clos de Sarpe
12. Château
La Clotte
13. Château
La Commanderie
14. Château
Corbin
15. Château
Côte de Baleau
16. Château
La Couspaude
17. Château
Dassault
18. Château
Destieux
19. Château
La Dominique
20. Château
Faugeres
21. Château
Faurie de Souchard
22. Château
de Ferrand
23. Château
Fleur Cardinale
24. Château
La Fleur Morange
25. Château
Fombrauge
26. Château
Fonplegade
27. Château
Fonroque
28. Château
Franc Mayne
29. Château
Grand Corbin
30. Château
Grand Corbin Despagne
31. Château
Grand Mayne
32. Château
Les Grandes Murailles
33. Château
Grand Pontet
34. Château
Guadet
35. Château
Haut Sarpe
36. Clos
des Jacobins
37. Château
Jean Faure
38. Château
Laniote
39. Château
Larmande
40. Château
Laroque
41. Château
Laroze
42. Château
La Marzelle
43. Château
Monbousquet
44. Château
Moulin Du Cadet
45. Château
Clos de l’Oratoire
46. Clos
La Madeleine
47. Château
Pavie Decesse
48. Château
Peby Faugeres
49. Château
Petit Faurie Soutard
50. Château
de Pressac
51. Château
Le Prieure
52. Château
Quinault L’Enclos
53. Château
Ripeau
54. Château
Rochebelle
55. Château
Saint Georges-Cote Pavie
56. Clos
St. Martin
57. Château
Sansonnet
58. Château
La Serre
59. Château
Soutard
60. Château
Tertre Daugay
61. Château
La Tour Figeac
62. Château
Villemaurine
63. Château
Yon-Figeac
|
The Bordeaux Wine Trade
The Bordeaux
Wine trade consists of 4 different tiers or branches in the creation, sale and
distribution of the wines of Bordeaux – Producers, Co-operatives, Brokers and
Négociants.
There
are 10,000 wine Producers that account for an average of 850 million bottles
each year. About 60% of the Producers own their own properties (75% of all wine
produced) but not all wine producers own a châteaux, of which there are
approximately 5,000 across all the regions of Bordeaux.
The 40%
of Producers who do not own their own property work through the 53
Co-operatives who work in a technical capacity for their members, offering
vinification, blending and packaging facilities.
There
are 130 Brokers (“courtiers”) who work as an intermediary between the producers
and the négociants, matching supply and demand, advising and conciliating
between the two parties. Brokers work as guarantors to the supply contracts and
monitor the quality of the wine through its period of maturation, ensuring that
the finished product corresponds to the buying samples. They are paid by
commission (“courtage”), normally set at 2% and paid by the buyer.
There
are 400 négociants (known generically as “la place”) who serve as a merchant
house, selling wines made at estates or commercial brands. The latter is
sourced from producers or co-operatives, usually as wine, and matured by the
négociant before blending, bottling and sale. One that undertakes that process
is known as a “négociant-éléveur”. Although there are almost 400 registered
négociants, nearly 90% of the profession’s business is accounted for by about
25 firms. The sector is responsible for selling 75% of all Bordeaux's
production to more than 160 different countries.[31]
Many of
the wines are sold on the futures market (en primeur) in
which the wine is sold while it is still in barrel prior to bottling. Payment is made at an early stage, a
year or 18 months prior to the official release of a vintage. A possible
advantage of buying wines en primeur is that the wines may be
considerably cheaper during the en primeur period than they will be once
bottled and released on the market. However, that is not guaranteed and some
wines may lose value over time.[32]
Wines Tasted
The
following wines were tasted in the French Wine Scholar class:
1. 2012 L’Avocat Graves Blanc
This
wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. It is a clear white wine
straw/pale lemon in color, star bright with medium viscosity. On the nose it is
clean with subtle intense aromas of grapefruit pith, white flowers, and white
stone. On the palate it has flavors of lemon with a hint of peanut shell, it is
dry with medium+ acidity, with a somewhat soft and round mid-palate with a waxy
feel and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $15
2. 2011 Bellevue-La Randee Bordeaux
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with minimal variation at the rim with
medium viscosity and staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate
intense aromas of black currants, dusty black berries, with a hint of graphite
and black olive. On the palate it is dry with moderate tannins, medium acidity
and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $11.
3. 2009 Chateau de Chantegrive Rouge
Pessac-Leognan
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with a touch of garnet around the rim
and moderate viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of dusty
black cherries, cocoa, a hint of mint and herbs, tobacco, tar and smoke. On the
palate it is dry with moderate tannins, medium acidity, and a moderate length
finish. This wine sells for $20.
4. 2009 Chateau Paloumey Haut-Medoc
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with a hint of garnet at the rim with
staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of cassis,
ripe cherries, hints of black olive and graphite. On the palate it is dry but
fruit forward with moderate tannins, medium acidity, and a medium+ length
finish. A great vintage so although it is only $24 it is really a great buy.
5. 2012 Chateau Langoa-Barton St. Julien
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with medium+ viscosity and staining
tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of cassis, ripe blackberries,
dark chocolate, black olive, graphite, and vanilla. On the palate it is dry,
fruit forward with “sweet” flavors of blackberry pie and vanilla almost “new
world” in style, it has medium+ refined tannins and a medium+ length finish. This
wine sells for $50.
6. 2012 Barde-Haut St. Emilion Grand Cru
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with medium+ viscosity and staining
tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of cassis, chocolate
covered cherries, ripe blackberries, minor touch of vanilla. On the palate it
is dry but fruit forward with refined medium+ tannins, medium acidity and a
moderate length finish. This wine sells for $29.
7. 2009 Chateau du Tertre Margaux
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with medium+ viscosity and slightly
staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of stewed plums, dried
meats, tar, tobacco, licorice, canned black pepper, with hints of funk due to
“Brett” and just a touch of grilled asparagus. On the palate it is dry with
refined medium+ tannins, medium acidity, medium body and a moderate length
earthy finish. This wine sells for $50.
8. 2005 Guiraud Sauternes
A clear
golden wine with high viscosity. On the nose pronounced aromas of orange
marmalade, caramelized canned peaches, graham cracker, honey and just a hint of
clove. On the palate it is luscious sweet with high acidity and yet it is still
somewhat viscous on the palate with a medium+ length finish. This wine sells
for $50.
[1] Coulure is the dropping
of flowers that results in the failure of grapes to develop. Millerandage is also causes by poor weather during flowering and it
causes grape bunches to contain berries that differ greatly in size and, most
importantly, maturity.
[2] Julien
Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 173.
[3] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 176.
[5] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to
Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 280-284
[6] David Peppercorn, Bordeaux
(London: Mitchell Beazley, 2003), 240–284.
[7] Hugh Johnson, World Atlas of Wine
(4th ed.) (London: Octopus Publishing Group Ltd., 1994), 82-89.
[8] Oz Clarke, Oz Clarke’s New
Essential Wine Book (3rd ed.) (New York: Websters International Publishers
and Octopus Publishing Group, 2005), 45; Hugh Johnson, World Atlas of Wine
(4th ed.) (London: Octopus Publishing Group Ltd., 1994), 83-94.
[10] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 71.
[11] Jancis
Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 325.
[12] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 183.
[19] Julien
Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 184.
[21] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 185.
[22] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 184.
[24] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 185.
[25] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 185.
[26] David Peppercorn, Bordeaux
(London: Mitchell Beazley, 2003), 83.
[27] Hugh Johnson, World Atlas of Wine
(4th ed.) (London: Octopus Publishing Group Ltd., 1994), 81.
[28]9. Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (Fre10.nch
Wine Society), 186.
[29] For a11. listing of the
‘Cru Artisans’ see: http://www.bbr.com/wine-knowledge/2006-medoc-clas 12.
[30] Also rated as a Premier Cru in the Bordeaux Wine
Official Classification of 1855.
[32] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine
Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 66.
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