France Unit 6 - The Loire Valley

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Loire Valley region of France. In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class (FWS – 05 Loire Valley).[1]

Introduction to The Loire Valley

The name “Loire” comes from Latin Liger, which is itself a transcription of the native Gaulish (Celtic) word liga, which means “silt, sediment, deposit, alluvium”.[2] The Loire Valley runs East-West from the center of France to the Atlantic Ocean. Running through the Loire Valley is the Loire River, the longest river in France at 1,012 kilometers (629 miles long). The Loire Valley is about 2/3 the size of the Bordeaux wine region with over 185,000 acres (750 km²) planted under vine.[3]

Most books and online sources talk about the “Lower”, “Central/Middle” and “Upper” Loire as well as the “right” and “left” banks of the Loire River. Yet when you look at a map it seems more accurate (at least to me) to talk about the Eastern, Central and Western Loire since the river runs East-West through the valley with “north” and “south” banks of the Loire River.

To avoid the confusion in these notes I’ll talk about the Loire Valley as we look at the map, from Left to Right, and describe the major regions – the Pays Nantais, the Anjou-Samur, Touraine and Upper Loire. I’d rather say Eastern Loire but most sources either refer to it as Upper Loire or Central Loire because the region is in the center of France.

Viticulture and Winemaking of the Loire

White Wines

The Loire Valley is home to Melon de Bourgogne, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and to a lesser extent Pinot Gris and Chardonnay is also planted. Chaptalization is allowed in the Loire Valley but only in certain years and under specific conditions.

Red and Rosés Wines

Red wines from the Loire Valley tend to have high acidity. Malolactic fermentation is allowed and due to the climate chaptalization is allowed in order to achieve the needed level of alcohol. Rosés are made using either the direct press or saignée method.

Sparkling Wine

In the Loire Valley the grapes used to make sparking wine, such as Crémant de Loire, may vary but all are made using the méthode traditionelle. They are commonly referred to as “Fines Bullies” (Fine Bubbles) whether they are pétillants, mousseux or crémant.

Sweet Wines: Vin Liquoreux

The only grape used for dessert wines in the Loire Valley is Chenin Blanc. The grapes must either be infected with botrytis cinecrea (“noble rot”) or they may undergo passerillage in which the grapes are allowed to hang and weather on the vine for an extended period. This is similar to Italian passito wines, except in Italy the grapes may be harvested to dehydrate off the vine in special rooms. Once the grapes are pressed the must is fermented at low temperatures which slows the process and retains the intensity of the fruit flavors. The fermentation ends when the alcohol becomes too high leaving behind residual sugar and yet the wine maintains its acidity which provides a clean non-cloying finish and enables them to age for decades. Some producers age their wines oxidatively in wood which adds complexity. The higher-end wines are aged 8 months to several years before bottling.[4]

AOCs, IGPs, and Vins San IGs of The Loire Valley I briefly discussed the AOCs, IGPs, Vins San IG hierarchy in the introduction to this study.[5] Approximately ¾ of the wines in the Loire Valley have AOC status.
AOC	The Lorie Valley has approximately 70 different AOCs that produce dry white, red and rosé wines as well as sweet and sparkling wines.
IGP	About 9.5% of the Loire Valley’s production. The largest is Val de Loire which was created in the 1970s with the goal ot allow greater freedom for grape selection.
Vins Sans IG	Approximately 15.5% of the Loire Valley’s production is designated as Vins San IG.

The Lower Loire

Geography of Pays Nantais The Pays Nantais is located in what some sources refer to as the “Lower Loire” where the Loire River empties into Atlantic Ocean. It is primarily a flat coastline area with few topographical markers. It is bisected by the Sèvre and Maine Rivers after which the region’s most famous wine is named – Muscadet Sèvre et Maine.
Climate of Pays Nantais The Pays Nantais has a maritime climate due to the influence of the ocean, it has cold and damp winters but very little snow. The primary climatic dangers to the vines are frost, hail and ice storms. Springs are cool, damp and is often cloudy but the summers are sunny and the region receives about 2,000 hours of sunshine per year.[6]
Soils of Pays Nantais The Pays Nantais was once home to a lot of volcanic activity so the soil now consists of eroded volcanic elements. Gneiss dominates the top-soils which is very porous rock which provides important drainage for vines. The sub-soil consists of crystalline igneous rocks that were formed when volcanic molten lava cooled. These soils have a very high mineral content.
Viniculture of Pays Nantais Chaptalization is permitted in the Pays Nantais and the rest of the Loire Valley which can have insufficient sunshine and heat and excessive rain. However, this is only done when it is necessary in order to achieve necessary alcohol levels.
White Grapes of Pays Nantais
Muscadet	Made from the Melon de Bourgogne it is often referred to simply as melon. While most French wines are named after the region and those in Alsace are named after the grape varietal, this wine is the exception as it is named after a characteristic produced by the melon grape variety - vin qui a un goût musqué – “wine with a musk-like taste”.[7]
Folle Blanche	Also known as Gros Plant (“Big Plant”), a vigorous and high yielding vine.
Pinot Gris	A lesser white wine in the region, it plays a more significant role in Reuilly in the Upper Loire.
Red Grapes of Pays Nantais While this is predominantly a white wine region, there are also some plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Malbec, Pineau d'Aunis (also known as Chenin Noir) and Négrette, which is more common in Southern France.
AOCs of Pays Nantais
Coteaux d’Ancenis+Grape Variety AOC	Currently there are 4 appellations under the Coteaux d’Ancenis AOC each with the name of the grape following the AOC: Coteaux d’Ancenis Pineau de La Loire Coteaux d’Ancenis Cabernet Coteaux d’Ancenis Malvoise (Pinot Gris) Coteaux d’Ancenis Gamay.[8]
Fiefs Vendèens AOC	Red Wines: At least 50% Gamay and Pinot Noir with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Négrette. White Wines: At least 50% Chenin Blanc with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Melon making up the balance. The vineyards surrounding the 4 villages are sub-regions: Brem, Mareuil, Pissoute and Vix.
Gros Plant du Pays Nantais AOC	This AOC produces dry white wines from Folle Blanche (Gros Plant). The best are planted on sandy soils mixed with granite and gravel on either side of the 2 major rivers, Sèvre and Maine. If aged on the yeast it may be labeled “sur lie.”
Muscadet AOCs The wine-growing tradition in the region where Muscadet is produced dates from an edict of the Roman Emperor Probus who had the first vineyards planted by soldiers. Château de la Cassemichère claims that the first Melon de Bourgogne vines used to make Muscadet were transported from Bourgogne and planted in their vineyards in 1740. However, most ampelographers believe that the Melon de Bourgogne grape was introduced to the Pays Nantais region in the 17th century by Dutch traders looking for a sufficient source of neutral, white wines that could be distilled into brandewijn (Brandy Wine). The most common viticultural hazards in the Muscadet region is winter and spring time frost and threat of mildew near harvest. The Melon de Bourgogne has adapted well to these condition being very frost resistant and capable of ripening early. Harvest usually takes place in mid to late September. [9]
Muscadet AOC	Established in 1936, it is a regional AOC with a production zone that covers the entire Pays Nantais with 20,305 acres (8,217 hectares) in 21 villages. Yet this is not the largest in terms of production.
Muscadet- Sèvre et Maine AOC	Established in 1936, it is named after the two rivers that through the region (Sèvre and Maine). It extends south and east of the city of Nantes and consists of 467 acres (189 hectares) with 24 villages spread across the Loire-Atlantique and Maine-et-Loire departments.[10] This AOC produces 75-80% of all Muscadet AOC wine bottled. There are 3 subzones within this AOC: (1) Muscadet- Sèvre et Maine Clisson (2) Muscadet- Sèvre et Maine Gorges (3) Muscadet- Sèvre et Maine Le Pellet
Muscadet- Côtes de Grandlieu AOC	Established in 1994, it is located in the southwest of the Pays Nantais. It benefits from the Grandlieu lake’s microclimate. This sub appellation covers 717 hectares (1771 acres) with 17 villages in the Loire-Atlantique department and 2 villages in the Vendée department.

“Middle Loire”: Anjou-Saumur and Touraine

Geography of Anjou- Saumur Some sources divide the Loire into 4 sections separating Anjou-Saumur / Touraine while others divide the Loire into 3 sections and lump these together under the banner of “Middle Loire.” The Middle Loire consists of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine and the vineyards are planted between the cities of Angers and Tours. Saumur is an eastern sub-region of Anjou to the west of Chinon in Touraine and is the Loire’s center for sparkling wine production.
Climate of Anjou- Saumur The Middle Loire is at a crossroads of the maritime climate of the Lower Loire and the continental climate of the Upper Loire and the weather patterns are influence by its neighboring regions. The influence of the Atlantic Ocean is tempered by the forests of the Vendée department to the southwest which absorbs the brunt of the rainfall and winds.[11]
Soils of Anjou- Saumur The soils of Anjou consist of schist and clay marls with pockets of gravel and shale. The vineyard soils close to the Loire River are composed primarily of carboniferous rock and schist. Chenin Blanc performs particularly well on these soils. Saumur has limestone soils intermixed with patches of sand that allows grapes to attain high acidity and enables the region to perform well in producing sparkling wine. Red varieties are planted on the patches of sand which produces wines that have less acid and are more fruit-driven. Vouvray, Montlouis and Amboise have porous limestone soils (tuffeau) while Chinon and Azay-le-Rideau have patches of mixed chalk, sand, and gravel while the hillsides have clay. The white grapes are planted on chalky soils which enable them to maintain high acidity while red grapes are planted on sands and gravels which produce wines with more pronounced fruit aromas and flavors. Bourgeil and St. Nicholas-de-Bourgeil have patches of sandy-gravel mixed with limestone as well as slopes with pure limestone.[12]
Viniculture of Anjou- Saumur Anjou produces both sweet and dry versions of Chenin Blanc. Approximately 1/3 of Anjou’s vineyards are devoted to Cabernet Franc and about 45% of Anjou’s total production is devoted to rosé, made by blending Grolleau with a white grape.
White Grapes of Anjou- Saumur and Touraine
Chenin Blanc	Known locally as Pineau de la Loire.
Sauvignon Blanc	Sauvignon Blanc dominates in the upper Loire, and the twin appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in particular. Sometimes simply referred to as Sauvignon, it produces crisp, dry, aromatic wines with sharp and piercing aromas of gooseberries, nettles, crushed blackcurrant leaves. With age, aromas reminiscent of canned asparagus can develop. The smell of Sauvignon are due to the dominant flavor compounds, called methoxypyrazines which also give green notes to two related grapes – Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.[13]
Chardonnay	While it is a major grape in Bourgogne, in the Loire it plays a supporting role as a secondary grape in sparkling wines.
Arbois	This grape is usually blended with Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc to produce Cheverny and IGP wines.
Pinot Gris	While it is a stand-alone grape in Alsace, in the Loire it is commonly used as a blending grape in rosé wines – Vin Gris.
Romorantin	Introduced to the Loire Valley in 1519 by none other than King Francois I, the grape was named after the nearby commune of Romorantin-Lanthenay, the king’s own homeland. Today it is planted exclusively in Cour-Cheverny. It is described some as being “Chablis-like.”[14]
Red Grapes of Anjou- Saumur and Touraine
Cabernet Franc	Known locally as Breton, it is the primary red grape of the Middle Loire.
Cabernet Sauvignon	This grape is a major player in the Left Bank of Bordeaux but in the Middle Loire it plays more of a supporting role for Cabernet Franc.
Gamay	The grape’s full name is Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc. According to DNA analysis Gamay is a member of the vast family of Burgundian grapes that are a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. In the lower Loire Valley, Gamay’s major role is in Touraine with Cheverny and Coteaux du Vendômois. Here it is used to make Anjou Rouge. Some of the higher quality wines are often labeled with the AOC designation Anjou-Villages.[15]
Grolleau	An indigenous grape to the Loire Valley, it is one of the primary grapes for making rosé wines.
Malbec	Known locally as Côt, in the Middle Loire it is a blending minor grape in red and rosé wines.
Pineau d’Aunis	Although it is often referred to as Chenin Noir it has no relation to Chenin Blanc. It is grown primarily in the Loire Valley around Anjou and Touraine and is permitted in Cheverny and Coteaux du Vendômois. It is often treated like Pinot noir and used to make rosé and white wines in both still and sparkling wine styles. There are two clones of Pineau d'Aunis being widely propagated - Clone #289 which lends itself more to vin gris style wines and Clone #235. [16]
Pinot Meunier	Found in the Touraine AOC and is often used in sparkling wines.
Pinot Noir	Found in the Touraine AOC and is often used in sparkling wines.
AOCs of Anjou
Anjou Blanc AOC	At least 80% Chenin Blanc, plus a maximum of 20% combined Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are grown on white soils resulting from the weathering of chalk (limestone) from the extreme Southwest of the Paris Basin.
Anjou Rouge AOC	A “catch all” AOC, made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus a maximum of 30% combined Pineau d'Aunis and Grolleau (maximum 10% Grolleau).[17] The appellation covers 26 communes in the Maine-et-Loire, 14 of Deux-Sèvres and 9 of Vienna, mainly south of Angers. The heart of the appellation is superimposed on the area of Anjou-Villages. The soil consists mostly of shale but there are also sub-soils of sand, gravel rolled, ostracées (the remnants of oyster shells) marl and volcanic rocks.[18]
Anjou – Villages AOC	Dry red wines made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Administratively, Anjou Villages can be produced in the departments of Maine-et-Loire and Deux-Sèvres. Its soil has an oceanic climate with continental influences and chalk soils, limestone, sand, clay and silica.
Anjou – Villages Brissac AOC	Red wines are made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The communes of production include Brissac-Quincé, Denée, Juigné-sur-Loire, Mozé-sur-Louet, Mûrs-Erigné, Saint-Jean-des-Mauvrets, Saint-Melaine-sur-Aubance, Saint-Saturnin-sur-Loire, Soulaines-sur-Aubance, Vauchrétien.[19]
Anjou – Gamay AOC	The wine must be 100% Gamay.
Anjou Coteaux de la Loire AOC	A small part of the Maine-et-Loire, on the slope of the right bank of the Loire downstream of Angers.
Anjou Mousseux AOC	Vin Mousseux Blanc is made from minimum of 70% Chenin Blanc, plus Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grolleau, Grolleau Gris, Pineau d'Aunis, Gamay, and a maximum of 20% Chardonnay. It is made in the traditional method and is aged a minimum 9 months on lees. Vin Mousseux Rosé is made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt (Malbec), Gamay, Grolleau, Grolleau Gris, Pineau d'Aunis. It is made in the traditional method and is aged a minimum 9 months on lees.[20]
Bonnezeaux AOC	The Bonnezeaux AOC produces only sweet white wine made from 100% Chenin Blanc. It consists of a 109 ha (270 acres) appellation lying in the eastern part of the Coteaux du Layon around the Thouarcé village located right on the banks of the Layon. The wines produced are similar to Quarts de Chaume and Coteaux du Layon’s wines in style, but are tend to be less expensive. The top 4 producers include: Château de Fesles, Domaine des Petits Quarts/Godineau, Domaine René Renou, Domaine Sansonnière.[21]
Cabernet d’Anjou AOC	Made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet d’Anjou and Rosé d’Anjou appellations overlap with the AOC Anjou. Cabernet d’Anjou consists of 4,000 hectares  (9,884 acres).[22]
Cremant de la Loire AOC	Established in 1975, the AOC produces sparkling wine by the traditional method and applies to sparkling wines produced in Anjou, Cheverny, Saumur and Touraine. The most common grapes are Chenin Blanc (dominant grape), Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, (also Pineau de la Loire), Grolleau (maximum 30%) and Pinot Noir. Most are white wines but rosé wines are also produced. There are approximately 200 producers of the most popular include Cray-Baumard, Berger, Bouvet Ladubay, Langlois Château, Delhumeau, Gratien, Nerleux, Oisly et Thésée and Passavant.
Chaume AOC Coteaux du Layon AOC Coteaux du Layon+ Village AOC Coteaux de L’Aubance AOC Quarts de Chaume AOC	These are sweet wines made from 100% late-harvest Chenin Blanc that are affected by botrytis.
Rosé d’Anjou AOC	Made from Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay, and Malbec. The Cabernet d’Anjou and Rosé d’Anjou appellations overlap with the AOC Anjou. Rose d’Anjou consists of 2,400 hectares / 5,930 acres.
Rosé de Loire AOC	The AOC consists of 2,400 ha (6,000 acres) which merges with the Anjou AOC area. The primary grapes are Grolleau (the most frequently grown variety in this AOC area), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay and Côt (Malbec).
Savennieres AOC	Made from 100% Chenin Blanc that are almost always dry. The production region is located on 300 hectares (740 acres) on 3 hills consisting of schist, slate and clay soils on the north bank of the Loire River. Coulée de Serrant - The top enclave of Savennières, Coulée de Serrant was first planted in 1130 by Cistercian monks. Today Coulée de Serrant, consists of a single estate run by Nicolas Joly labeled Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.[23]
Savennieres Coulee de Serrant AOC	An enclave of Savennieres AOC.
Savennieres La Roche aux Moines AOC	An enclave of Savennieres AOC.

Geography of Saumur Located to the east of Coteaux du Layon on the banks of the Loire river, the Saumur appellation is well-suited for suited to producing Chenin Blanc, but due to a different climate it has much more difficulty producing good noble-rotted wines.
Climate of Saumur The Atlantic influence is not quite so strong here as in the Pays Nantais to the west, but it still plays a major role. Rainfall is on the light side and summers are warm, but spring frost remains a problem.
Soils of Saumur Saumur soils consist of limestone, it is generally shallow and chalky and not conducive to noble-rotted wine production, but produce gentle and well-rounded dry white wines.
Viticulture and Viniculture of Saumur Anjou-Saumur is a district rolling hills that hold back chilly winds from the west. The best sites are on south-facing, rocky slopes and in the Layon river valley. Saumur is the largest sparkling wine producer in the Loire Valley with more acres and higher yields for its Mousseux AOCs than the Crémant de Loire AOC. It also produces still wines, rosés and red wines.
AOCs of Saumur
Cabernet de Saumur AOC	Made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon or a blend of the two grapes.
Coteaux de Saumur AOC	Sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc produced only in years in which botrytis infects the grapes.
Saumur Blanc AOC	Predominantly Chenin Blanc, but up to 20% Chardonnay in the blend is permissible.
Saumur Rouge	A general appellation for Saumur’s red wines.
Saumur-Champigny AOC	Established in 1957, the “Champigny” denomination can be added to the Saumur appellation for the red wines grown in specially defined areas around 8 villages near Saumur. Saumur-Champigny is Anjou’s counterpart to Touraine’s Chinon. It consists of red wines made mostly from Cabernet Franc up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon or Pineau d'Aunis (Chenin Noir). The AOC consists of 1500 ha (3700 acres) of vineyards located within the parishes of Saumur and Champigny and 6 of their immediate neighbors. The soils consist of a plateau of tuffeau, a yellowish metamorphic sandy and porous rock, that rises up at the eastern edge of the town of Saumur and continues almost uninterrupted for 11 km (7 miles) to the village of Candes Saint-Martin. This unique soil regulates water supply to the vines by immediately absorbing excess water and retaining it for use in the driest periods. Vines growing in tuffeau-rich soils rarely suffer from excess water stress but also benefit from dry, free-draining soils.[24]
Saumur Mousseux AOC	This AOC covers sparkling white and rosé wines made by the traditional method from a blend of Chenin Blanc with up to 20% Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (separately or combined) and up to 60% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt, Gamay, Grolleau and Pineau d’Aunis.
Saumur Mousseux Rosé AOC	A sparkling rosé wine produced from vineyards anywhere within Anjou-Saumur. It can be produced in the departments of Maine-et-Loire, Deux-Sèvres and Vienne. Saumur sparkling rosé wine are made by the traditional method from a blend of Chenin Blanc with up to 20% Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (separately or combined) and up to 60% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt, Gamay, Grolleau and Pineau d’Aunis.
Saumur Pétillant AOC	These fizzy white and rosé wines are made by the traditional method but the appellation is not widely used. They are made from a minimum of 80% Chenin Blanc, along with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and are intended to be consumed young and are not suitable for ageing.

The Touraine and its capital Tours takes its name from a Celtic tribe called the Turones, who inhabited the region about two thousand years ago.[25] In 1044, the control of Touraine was given to the Angevins, who (as the House of Plantagenet) became kings of England in 1154, the castle of Chinon being their greatest stronghold. In 1205, Philip II Augustus of France regained Touraine. At this time, Touraine was made into a royal duchy. In 1429, Saint Joan of Arc had a historic meeting with the future King of France Charles VII at Chinon. Throughout the late 15th and 16th centuries, Touraine was a favorite residence of French kings who built 9 castles on tuffeau limestone - Chenonceau, Amboise, Azay-le-Rideau, Chinon, the Clos-Lucé, Langeais, Loches, Villandry and Ussé. Later the castles were converted to Renaissance châteaux and the region was dubbed, “The Garden of France”. Leonardo Da Vinci died in Amboise, a city in La Touraine, in 1519. The royal duchy became a province in 1584, and was divided into departments in 1790.[26]

Geography of Touraine Some sources divide the Loire into 4 sections separating Anjou-Samur / Touraine while others lump these together under the banner of “Middle Loire.” The Touraine stretches from Anjou to the west to the Sologne region in the east. It is in an area where the Loire and its tributaries meet, covering 104 communes in Indre-et-Loire and 42 in Loir-et-Cher. Most of the vineyards are located southeast of Tours, on the slopes that dominate the Cher, and between the Cher and the Loire.
Climate of Touraine Touraine is located at the crossroads of marine and continental influences. An oceanic climate dominates in the west, becoming more continental as you move east. A series of east-west facing valleys provide microclimates favorable for viticulture.
Soils of Touraine Touraine has a variety of soils including flinty clays, clay limestone on a chalk bed, and sand on flint to the east, as well as gravel stones and sand.
AOCs of Touraine
Bourgueil AOC	Established as an AOC in 1937, Bourgueil is located north of Chinon. The soils are divided between sand and limestone. Red and Rosé wines consist of Cabernet Franc plus a maximum of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Communes of Production consist of Benais, Bourgueil, La Chapelle-sur-Loire, Chouzé-sur-Loire, Ingrandes-de-Touraine, Restigné, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Saint-Patrice.[27]
Cheverny AOC	Established as an AOC in 1993, this AOC vineyards rather than the wines themselves are regulated as to the percentages rather than what actually goes into the bottle. The vineyards for white wines consist of 60-84% Sauvignon Blanc and the remainder is Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Arbois. The vineyards for Red and Rosé wines consist of 60-84% Pinot Noir and Gamay can make up 16-40% Gamay with Cabernet Franc and Côt making up less than 10% under the vine.[28]
Chinon AOC	Chinon soils are broadly divided into three types: tuffeau, clay, and varennes. The sandy, alluvial varennes soils are closest to the Vienne River (a Loire tributary) whereas tuffeau is more common on the slopes. The vins de tuffe originating from these limestone south-facing slopes carry the most promise for wines with depth and ageability. Chinon Blanc must consist of 100% Chenin Blanc. Red and rosé must consist of Cabernet Franc plus a maximum of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.[29]
Coteaux du Loir AOC	First, notice the spelling – it is Loir not Loire. It is named after the Loir River not the larger and more well-known Loire River 35km (20 miles) to the south. The AOC consists of 100 ha (240 acres) of vineyards on tuffeau soils in 22 communes just to the north of Tours. It produces red, white and rosé wines from Gamay, Pineau d'Aunis, Côt (Malbec), Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. White wines account for 1/3 of the total production which includes dry wines and very sweet botrytized wines made from 100% Chenin Blanc.
Coteaux du Vendomois	Established in 2001, Coteaux du Vendomois is located mainly east of the town of Vendome stretching along both banks of the Loir River, which is a tributary of the Loire. The vineyards for red wines must consist of at least 40% Pineau d'Aunis. The remaining grape varieties are Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. The Vin Gris must be made from 100% Pineau d'Aunis. White wines are made from Chenin Blanc supplemented by Chardonnay.
Cour-Cheverny AOC	Established in 2003, the region is spread over 532 hectares (1314 acres), within 24 communes of the Loir-et-Cher department. White wines consist of 60%–80% Sauvignon Blanc blended with Arbois, Chardonnay or Pineau Blanc de la Loire grapes. A small amount of sparkling wine is also produced from 40%–65% Gamay along with Pinot Noir and up to 15% Cabernet Franc and Côt. Rosés are made from Pineau d'Aunis.
Crémant de Loire AOC	The Crémant de Loire production area covers the appellation zones of Anjou, Saumur and Touraine but it is primarily made in the Saumur area. It is made from Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d'Aunis, with blending constraints favoring traditional grape varieties.
Haut-Poitou AOC	Established in 2010, it is named after the city of Poitiers. The vineyards cover 800 hectares (1976 acres) in 40 municipalities. The white wines are made from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc and Pinot Blanc. The red and rosé wines are made from a blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay and Grolleau de Chaudenay blended. Top producers include Domaine la Tour Beaumont, Robert Champalou, Gérard Descoux, Cave du Haut-Poitou, Morgreau Jacques, Domaine de la Rotisserie and Domaine de Ville Mont.
Jasnières AOC	Jasnières AOC is located in the Sarthe department of the Loire Valley, and covers 65 hectares (160 acres) of vineyards planted on calcareous-clay hillsides, all facing south or south-east.
Montlouis -sur-Loire AOC	It is located within the Touraine AOC formerly part of Vouvray. The wines are very similar in style and may be made across the same spectrum of styles. It produces white wines made Chenin Blanc. The wines may be dry or sweet and include Sec (0-.4% RS), Demi-Sec (.04-1.2% RS), Moelleux (1.2-4.5% RS) and Doux (+4.5% RS). The sweet wines are made from late harvest grapes, some of which may be affected by botrytis.
Montlouis -sur-Loire Mousseux AOC Petillant AOC	Produced from Chenin Blanc, Mousseux has no ageing requirements but Petillant must be aged 9 months sur lie.
Orléans AOC	The wines are made from at least 60% Chardonnay (known locally as Auvernat Blanc) with the remainder of the blend consisting of Pinot Gris but many are 100% Chardonnay. Dry red and rosés wines are made from Pinot Noir (Auvernat Noir) and Pinot Meunier (Gris Meunier).
Orléans-Cléry AOC	A red wine appellation made predominantly from Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon may be blended in until 2020.
St. Nicolas de Bourgueil AOC	St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is situated almost wholly on lighter alluvial soils, with a corresponding lighter style of wine. It produces only red and rosé wine which must consist of Cabernet Franc plus a maximum of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Rosé de Loire	The areas covered by the Cabernet d’Anjou AOC merged together with those of the Anjou AOC. The principle grape varieties are Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Touraine AOC	Touraine’s largest and most important white wine district made from Sauvignon Blanc and maximum of 20% Sauvignon Gris. For red wines the principal varieties are a minimum 80% combined Cabernet Franc and Côt (minimum 50%). Vineyards west of Tours have a minimum of 80% Cabernet Franc. Rosé wines consist of a minimum 2 varieties present, and no variety may exceed 70% of the vineyard. Cabernet Franc, Cot, Gamay, Grolleau, Grolleau Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Meunier, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pineau d'Aunis.
Touraine Mousseux AOC Petillant AOC	Touraine Mousseux wines can be white, red or rosé. The dominate grapes for white wines are Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Red and rosé wines are made from Gamay and Cabernet Franc. Touraine Petillant can be white, red or rosé and are the same blend as the Touraine Mousseux except the white wines may also include Chardonnay.
Valençay AOC	A French appellation for both wines and goats' milk cheeses. Reflecting the proximity of Reuilly and Quincy to the east, Valençay's whites are predominantly composed of Sauvignon Blanc. Red and rosé wines from the appellation are based on Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Côt.
Vouvray AOC	Vouvray consists of a minimum of 95% Chenin Blanc, plus a maximum of 5% Arbois (Menu Pineau). The tuffeau limestone subsoil of Vouvray provided soft material for excavation, resulting in an impressive network of cellar tunnels running underneath the eight delimited communes of Vouvray. The wines are produced from Chenin Blanc; the rustic Orbois (Menu Pineau) grape is allowed but seldom encountered. Vouvray may be produced in a range of sweetness levels: sec, sec-tendre (off-dry), demi-sec, moelleux, and liquereux. The final decision on residual sugar is usually a response to the vagaries of each vintage, rather than a consistent stylistic choice. Vouvray producers may also choose to make a sparkling wine, a successful strategy in cooler years. The sparkling wines are made by méthode traditionnelle and may be either pétillant or mousseux.
Vouvray Mousseux AOC Vouvray Petillant AOC	Vouvray also produces Vin Mousseux / Pétillant with a Traditional Method Secondary Fermentation made of 95% Chenin Blanc, plus a max. 5% Arbois.

The Upper Loire

Some books and online sources refer to the Eastern End of the Loire Valley as “Center Loire” (because it is located in the Center of France) while others refer to it as the “Upper Loire” due to it being up-stream along the Loire River. The textbook for the French Wine Scholar Program refers to it as the latter so that is the term I’ll use in these notes. The Upper Loire is the smallest of the valley’s sub-regions and it is home to two of the most well known Loire wines – Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. Whereas Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc were the dominant white and red grapes in the Middle Loire, in the Upper Loire white wines are made almost exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc and red wines are made from Pinot Noir.

Geography of Upper Loire The Upper Loire is located 125 km (78 miles) south of Paris and Pouilly is located 112 km (70 miles) west of the northern vineyards of Bourgogne with no vineyards in between. In the Upper Loire the Loire River runs north and then northwest from the Massif Central Mountain range near the city of Clermont-Ferrand.[30]
Climate of Upper Loire The Upper Loire has a harsh continental climate so vineyards are planted near the river to take advantage of its moderating effect. Winters tend to be cold, Spring is short with some cloudy days and summer is hot and sunny. Both fog and humidity can be a challenge as they can promote rot but Sauvignon Blanc is resistant to fungal diseases.[31]
Soils of Upper Loire The Upper Loire has 3 distinct surface soil types with an underlying Kimmeridgean limestone. (1) Terres Blanches: A marl rich in oyster fossils which promotes acidity in wines. (2) Caillotes: Small limestone pebbles which also promote acidity in wines. (3) Silex: Flint, which tends to promote gunflint / smoky characteristics in wines.[32]
White Grapes of Upper Loire
Sauvignon Blanc	Also known as Blanc Fumé which litterlay means “smoky white”, it is the principle white grape in the Upper Loire.
Chasselas	A prominent grape in the Pouilly-sur-Loire.
Pinot Gris	The word “gris” means gray in French. The skins of Pinot Gris grapes are darker than white grapes but lighter than red ones and can impart a very subtle color to the wine so in the Loire region it is used to make lightly colored rosé wines. This is common in Reuilly in the Upper Loire.
Sacy	Also known as Tressallier, it is cross between Pinot and Gouais Blanc. The grape ripens early, and produces light-colored wines low in acid and alcohol.
Red Grapes of Upper Loire
Pinot Noir	Pinot Noir is the primary red grape of the Upper Loire most famous in red Sancerre but also in Menetou-Salon and Châteaumeillant. These tend to be lighter wines than those of Bourgogne.
Gamay	The grape’s full name is Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc. According to DNA analysis Gamay is a member of the vast family of Burgundian grapes that are a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. In the lower Loire Valley, Gamay’s major role is in Touraine with Cheverny and Coteaux du Vendômois. In the Upper Loire, Gamay plays a supporting role to Pinot Noir.
AOCs of Upper Loire
Châteaumeillant AOC	Established as an AOC in 2010, it is named after the town of Châteaumeillant. The vineyards cover 100 hectares (247 acres) of vineyards in the communes Champillet, Feusines, Néret, Reigny, Saint-Maur, and Vesdun Urciers in the department of Cher. It specializes in red and rosé (Vin Gris) wines are made from 60%+ Gamay with the remainder consisting of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.[33]
Côte Roannaise AOC	Established as an AOC in 1994, it produces red and rosé wines from 100% Gamay sourced from 14 communes located just west of Roanne, in the Rhone-Alpes administrative region of France. The soils consist of sand, granite as well as volcanic soils rich in basalt.
Côte d’Auvergne AOC	Established as an AOC in 2011, it produces white wines are made from 100% Chardonnay while red and rosé wines are made from 50%+ Gamay with less than 50% Pinot Noir.
Coteaux du Giennois AOC	Established as an AOC in 1998, it is named after the town of Gien and covers about 180 hectares (444 acres) of vineyards planted on chalk and flint soils. It produces white wines from 100% Sauvignon Blanc while red and rosé wines are made from Gamay and Pinot Noir. Top producers include Joseph Balland-Chapuis, René Berthier and Paul Paulat.[34]
Menetou-Salon AOC	The AOC covers about 330 hectares (820 acres) of vineyards planted on Kimmeridgean soils. It produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc while red wines from Pinot Noir. Well-known producers are Domaine de Chatenoy, Domaine Domaine Henri Gilbert and Pellé.[35]
Pouilly-Fumé AOC	Established in 1937, the AOC produces only white wines from Sauvignon Blanc that have a distinctive smoky/flinty character from vineyards planted on flint, giving the AOC its name as “Fumé” refers to the smoky bouquet. The soil consists of three major types: Kimmeridgian marl, limestone and flint clay.
Pouilly-Sur-Loire AOC	Pouilly-sur-Loire is a lesser-known AOC wine adjoining the more well-known Pouilly-Fumé. It is located north east of the city of Bourges and comprises 7 communes (Garchy, Mesves-sur-Loire, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Saint-Andelain, Saint-Laurent, Saint-Martin-sur-Nohain and Tracy-sur-Loire) on the right bank of the Loire in the Nievre département. While Pouilly-Fumé is based on the Sauvignon Blanc grape, Pouilly-sur-Loire white wines are made from the Chasselas grape grown on less than 50 hectares (123 acres) of vineyards.
Quincy AOC	The Upper Loire’s first AOC, it is located around the town of Bourges. It produces only white wines from Sauvignon Blanc from 210 ha (520 acres) of vineyards planted on a combination of Kimmeridgian soil, sand and gravel due to being located between two rivers, the Cher and its tributary the Yevre.
Reuilly AOC	The AOC was established in 1937 for Sauvignon Blanc and in 1961 for red wines made from Pinot Noir and rosé wines from Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The vineyards consist of 150 hectares (370 acres) planted on sandy-gravelly soil and Kimmeridgian marl along the Cher River located in 7 communes: Reuilly and Diou in Indre and Lazenay, Chéry, Lury-sur-Arnon, Preuilly and Cerbois in Cher.
Saint-Pourçain AOC	Established as an AOC in 2009, it is located on the west bank of the Allier River (a tributary of the Loire) 144 km (90 miles) south of Sancerre. The vineyards are planted on diverse soil types, ranging from limestone-marl to the alluvial, sand-gravel terraces dominating the Allier valley. White wines must consist of at least 50% Chardonnay and 2-50% Sacy with up to 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Rosé wines are made from 100% Gamay and red wines are made from a blend of 40%+ Gamay and up to 25% Pinot Noir. This AOC extends over nineteen communes of Allier over a strip of land 5 - 7 km wide (3-4.5 miles): Chemilly, Besson, Bresnay, Meillard, Châtel-de-Neuvre, Monétay-sur-Allier, Contigny, Verneuil-en-Bourbonnel, Beneilles-Les-Chantelle, Bransat, Louchy-Montfand, Saint-Pourçain, Cesset, Montord, Chareil-Cintrat, Fleuriel, and Fourilles.[36]
Sancerre AOC	The AOC is located on the left bank of the Loire at the eastern edge of the Loire Valley. Vineyards cover a series of hillsides dominated by the “Piton” or peak of Sancerre. White wines are 100% Sauvignon Blanc (about 90% of production) and red and rosé wines are made from Pinot Noir Vineyards planted on 3 primary soil types: (1) Terres Blanches (“white earth”) is compact chalk atop kimmeridgean marl is characteristic of the western part of the region. (2) Les Caillottes is gravel and limestone. (3) Silex (flint) is found in the eastern vineyards.[37]

Wines Tasted

The following wines were tasted in the French Wine Scholar class:

1. NV Deligeroy Cremant de Loire

A clear white wine, pale lemon with fine bubbles. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of peach skin, caramel, cotton candy, and chalky aspirin. On the palate it is dry and somewhat tart with high acidity, it is light in body with notes of zesty lemon-lime and a pronounced chalky minerality on a lingering finish. This wine sells for $13.

2. Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sevre et Maine Granite

A clear white wine, pale lemon with low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of citrus, white cheese rind, hints of petrol, and just a waft of white bread. On the palate it is dry with high acid, medium body with a fairly short finish. This wine sells for $20.

3. 2013 Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre

A clear white wine, pale lemon in color with low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of grapefruit, lemon-lime, lemon blossom, jalapeño, guava and a hint of wet stone. On the palate it is dry with high acid, moderate body with a very distinctive chalky texture with a medium+ length finish. This wine sells for $27.

4. 2011 Laporte Pouilly Fumé Les Duchesses

A clear white wine, lemon in color with a slight green tint around the edges with low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of grilled asparagus, lemon-lime, and a very distinctive note of smoky gunflint. On the palate it is dry with medium+ acid, medium body with a soft mid-palate feel, and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $25.

5. 2013 Catherine et Pierre Breton Vouvray “La Dilettante”

A clear white wine, lemon in color with slight green tint around the edge and low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of melon, grapefruit, and some sulfur-like funk. On the palate it is dry with high acid, moderate body and medium alcohol. This is a very atypical Vouvray and for $23 I’d say “PASS!”

6. 2013 Domaine de l'Aujardière Val de Loire Rose

A clear salmon-pink wine with moderate viscosity. On the nose it has subtle aromas of strawberry, watermelon, cranberry and a touch of spice. On the palate it is dry and tart with high acidity, moderate body with flavors of jolly-roger fruit watermelon candy and a touch of spice on a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $15.

7. 2012 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon

This a moderatly intense opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with staining tears. On the nose it is clean with red plums, cherries, pomegranates, hints of green peppers, with a touch of smoke and slate. On the palate it is dry with velvety moderate tannins, medium++ acidity, medium body and a medium length finish. A well-balanced wine that wine sells for $23.

8. Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon “Les Rouannieres”

A clear white wine, golden in color with high viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of honey, graham cracker, orange marmalade, and hints of butterscotch. On the palate it is sweet, medium bodied with high acidity that provides a long clean finish. A very affordable alternative to Sauternes or other similar sweet wines, it sells for $25.

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[1] I had written and posted notes on the Loire Valley when I was studying through the International Culinary Center’s Intensive Sommelier (Unit 2 Day 2) but somehow the notes got deleted from my blog and for some strange reason no longer exist on my computer.

[2] Montclos, Jean-Marie Pérouse de, Châteaux of the Loire Valley (H.F. Ullmann Publishing Gmbh 2011).

[3] Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman Publishing, 2001), 259-272.

[4] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 166.

[5] http://worldofwinetastingadventures.blogspot.com/2015/01/introduction-to-advanced-study-of-wines.html

[6] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 151.

[7] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 200-201.

[8] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 152.

[9] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 200-201.

[10] http://www.inao.gouv.fr/repository/editeur/pdf/CDCHomologues0708/CDCMUSCADETv1homologation.pdf

[11] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 154.

[12] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 151; Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, The World Atlas of Wine (7^th Edition, Octopus Publishing, 2013), 112-114.

[13] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3^rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 612.

[14] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3^rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 590.

[15] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3^rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 296-297.

[16] J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours (Ecco; Slp edition, 2012), 804.

[17] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3^rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 24.

[18] James E. Wilson, Terroir (University of California Press, 1998), 240.

[19] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 282-286.

[20] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 282-286.

[21] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 282-286.

[22] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 157.

[23] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3^rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 614.

[24] http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-saumur-champigny

[25] http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/600751/Touraine

[26] http://latourainefrance.weebly.com/history.html

[27] Michel Mastrojanni, Vins de France (Solar, 2001), 31.

[28] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 159.

[29] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 160

[30] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 162.

[31] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 162.

[32] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 163.

[33] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 164.

[34] http://www.wein-plus.eu/en/AOC+Coteaux+du+Giennois_2.0.3389.0.3533.0.4139.html

[35] http://www.wein-plus.eu/en/Menetou-Salon+AOC_2.0.3389.0.3533.0.4148.html

[36] http://www.loirevalleywine.com/explore-region/centre-loire/st-pourcain

[37] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 165.