France Unit 9b - Provence

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Provence region of France. In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class (FWS – 08 Provence, Languedoc & Roussillon).

Early Viticultural History of Provence

The earliest settlers and grape growers in the region of Provence were the Phocaeans who, according to Herodotus (484–425 B.C.), were the first Greeks to make long sea-voyages, having discovered the coasts of the Adriatic, Tyrrhenia and Spain.[1] Then in the second century B.C. the region became a Roman territory and the called the entire area nostra provincia (“our province”) from which the current name Provence is derived.[2] Much of the subsequent history of Province is similar to that of the rest of France.

Geography of Provence Provence is located along the southeast coast of France and the sea runs along its southern broder. It is approximately 240 km (150 miles) wide and is bordered by the Rhone River and the Languedoc on the west and the Cote d’Azur and Italy on the east. The region is approximately 160 km (100 miles) from north to south.[3]
Climate of Provence Provence has a Mediterranean climate due to the influence of the Mediterranean Sea, but some interior areas also experience alpine and continental influences. In addition, the Mistral wind blows north to south which helps reduce humidity in the vineyards.
Soils of Provence The vineyards in Provence are planted on 2 primary soil types: Calcareous limestone and Crystaline (quartz-rich schist). The northern and western boundaries are made up of limestone and clay and the eastern contain quartz-rich schist.[4]
Viniculture of Provence Most of the older vines in Provence are trained in the Gobelet system while the newer vines use the Guyot system which is more conducive to harvesting with machinery.
White Grapes of Provence
Rolle	Sauvignon Blanc
Ugni Blanc	Sémillon
Grenache Blanc	Chardonnay
Bourboulenc Blanc	Spagnol (Also known as Mayorquin)
Clairette Blanc and Rose	Pignerol
Pascal	Blanqueiron
Terret Blanc	Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Blanc
Picardin	Picquepoul
Marsanne	Viognier
Roussanne
Red Grapes of Provence
Grenache Noir	Terret Noir
Syrah	Cabernet Sauvignon
Mourvedre	Tibouron
Carignan	Braquet
Couinoise	Calitor
Cinsault	Barbaroux

Provence AOCs Provence has 9 AOCs which are as follows:
(1) Côtes De Provence AOC	Established as an AOC in 1977. The Côtes de Provence AOC is a large region made up of 5 noncontiguous vineyards that covers over 85 communes in the eastern region of Provence. These vineyards are located on 5 major geographical areas: the coastal regions, inland valleys, foothills of the high country, the Beausset Basin (a limestone basin east of Marseille) and the Sainte-Victorie Mountain. There are 4 geographic designations that can add their name on the label: Sainte-Victorie, Fréjus, La Londe, and Pierrefeu. Rosé wine accounts for nearly 75% of all the wine production. At least 20% of the rosé must be blended from wine produced by the saignee method of maceration. Red wine makes up approximately 8% of wine production. Rosé and Red must contain two of the following grapes: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Tibouren, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Rosé  may also have a small amount of Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Sémillon.[5] White wines makes up approximately 3% of the production and may be made from and amount of Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Sémillon.[6]
(2) Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOC	Established as an AOC in 1985. The Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence AOC is the second largest Provençal wine appellation, covering over 50 communes in the west and northwestern regions of Provence. The area comprises the city of Aix-en-Provence and surrounding communes. The region produces red (15%) and rosé (81%) wine from Grenache, Cinsaut and Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon which was introduced to the region by George Brunet in 1960. The cuttings came from the Bordeaux estate of Château La Lagune. Rosé may have up to 20% white varieties. A small amount of white wine (4%) is also produced from Rolle (min. 50%), Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. A very small amount of white nouveau wine (young wine) is also produce and released in December only two weeks after the release of Beaujolais Nouveau (third Thursday of November). However, these Provençal white wines are not required to have the words nouveau or primeur on the label.[7]
(3) Les Baux de Provence AOC	Established as an AOC in 1995. Within the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence is the smaller Les Baux-de-Provence AOC which was granted AOC status in 1995. It is the first AOC to require all vineyards to be farmed biodynamically. The rule was adopted as producers had already converted to organic viticulture, eliminating the use of chemicals that could easily dispersed from the vines by the strong Mistral windThe climate of the region is very hot with the surrounding valley known as the Val d'Enfer (Valley of Hell). Vineyards are centered around the hilltop village of the Whereas most AOCs have a higher production of rosé in Provence, Les Baux-de-Provence has a higher production of red wines (64%) as well as dry rosé (31%) some white wine some white wine (5%). The dominent grape varieties for red wines are Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah (max. 90%) plus Carignan, Cinsaut, Counoise (max. 30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (max. 20%). Rosés are composed of Cinsaut (min. 60%), Grenache and Syrah (max. 90%).[8]
(4) Coteaux Varois en Provence AOC	Established as an AOC in 1993. It covers the central region of Provence, in the Var département from where the region’s name is derived, between the Côtes de Provence AOC and the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence AOC. The region is sheltered by the surrounding limestone hills and Sainte-Baume Mountains, which have a tempering effect on the Mediterranean influences that are common throughout Provence. Because of its cooler climate some growers are experimenting with Pinot Noir, but it is currently only permitted in IGP wine.[9] The majority of the region's production is rosé (88%), followed by red wine (9%) and a small amount of white wine (3%). Red and Rosé wines must contain at least 2 of the following but no one grape can be more than 90% of the blend: Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan. Rosé may have up to 20% of white grapes. The primary white grapes are Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Semillon, Clairette and Grenache Blanc.[10]
(5) Palette AOC	Established as an AOC in 1948. It is the smallest appellation of Provence and the 40 ha (100 acres) of vineyards consist of two non-contiguous areas on both sides of the Arc River. All grapes must be hand harvested. There are only a few producers, the most well-known is Chateau Simone which produces about 50% of the AOC’s wines. Red wine (44% of total production) and rosé (19% of total production) must consist of 50% Cinsaut, Grenache, and Mourvèdre (together or separately) and up to 12 secondary varietals may be added.  White wine (37% of total production) must incorporate 55% Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Picardin and Bouboulenc (together or separately) and up to 13 secondary varietals may be added. [11]
(6) Cassis AOC	Established as an AOC in 1936. The AOC, located along the coast between Marseilles and Bandol. The vineyards are planted primarily on limestone. About 70% of its production is dedicated to white wine production made from primarily from Marsanne and Clairette plus 5 secondary grapes including Bouboulenc, Pascal, Ugni Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Terret Blanc. Red and rosé wines are primarily a blend of Grenache, Cinsaut, and Mourvèdre with a small amount of Barbaroux and/or Carignan and Terret Noir. Rosé wines may also add up to 20% of white grapes.[12]
(7) Bandol AOC	Established as an AOC in 1941. It is located near the coast east of Marseille and Cassis and is based around the fishing village of Bandol, west of Toulon and the wines are produced by 8 communes. Most of the vineyards face south toward the Mediterranean Sea in the form of a natural amphitheater. The terraces are supported by low walls made from river stones called restanques. The soil consists of silicon, sandy marls, sandstone and limestone pebbles.The aridity and the soils are a key factor in defining Bandol so AOC wines only come from hillside vineyards. After Phyloxera devastated in the 1880s the region was replanted to the Mourvèdre grape which is the dominate red grape variety. For red wines (30% of total production) Mourvèdre must account for at least 50% (max. 95%) of the blend with Grenache, Cinsaut and Syrah and Carignan (15% of the blend or 10% individually). The wine is required to age at least 18 months in oak prior to release but is best after 3 years of ageing. Rosé wines (60% of total production) are made from Mourvèdre (min. 20%, max. 95%) plus Grenache and Cinsaut plus a small amount of Syrah, Carignan, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Ugni Blanc. The white wines (10% of total production) are composed primarily of Clairette Blanche (min. 50%), Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Rolle are permitted secondary grapes. [13]
(8) Bellet AOC	Established as an AOC in 1941. It is located in the commune of Nice near the border with Italy. The vineyards above Nice cover only about 50 acres. Red and rosé wines are made Braquet and Folle Noir with the possible addition of Cinsault and Grenache. Rosé may also include Mayorquin (max. 40%), Clairette, Bourboulenc, Chardonnay (the only AOC in Provence), Muscat Blanc and Pignerol. White wines are primarily made from Rolle but may also include Blanqueiron, Rousssan (Ugni Blanc), Mayorquin, Clairette (max. 40%), Bourboulenc, Chardonnay, Muscat à Petit Grains and Pignerol.[14]
(9) Coteaux de Pierrevert AOC	Established in 1998, it is Provence’s newest AOC. The wines are produced in 11 communes of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence département. It is partly located in the valley of the Durance river in the region of Manosque. The dominant production is for Rosé wines (60%) made from Grenache Noir (min. 50%) and Syrah (20% min.) and Cinsault. Secondary varieties include Carignan, Mourvedre and Teoulier and a maximum of 20% white grapes such as Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Piquepoul, Roussanne, Ugni Blanc, Rolle and Viognier. Red wines (30% of production) are made from Grenache Noir and Syrah (min. 70% combined) blended with secondary varieties such as Cinsault, Mourvedre (being phased out, no new plantings as of 1998)  and Carignan plus up to 10% of white varieties such as Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Piquepoul, Roussanne, Ugni Blanc, Rolle and Viognier. White wines (10% of production) are made from Grenache blanc and/or Rolle (min. 50%). The remainder can include Clairette Blanche, Marsanne, Ugni blanc, Roussanne, Piquepoul, and Viognier.[15]

IGPs
General IGP	Departmental IGP	Specified Area IGP
Mediterranée IGP Shared w/ Rhone and Corsica, 53% is red, 24% is rosé and 13% is white wine.	Alpes de Haute Provence IGP	Aigues IGP
	Alpes Maritime IGP	Argens IGP
	Bouches-du-Rhone IGP	Coteaux du Verdon IGP
	Haute Alpes IGP	Maures IGP
	Vaucluse IGP	Mont Caume IGP
	Var IGP	Alpilles IGP
		Principaute d’Orange IGP
		Saint Baume IGP

Wines Tasted

The following wine was tasted from Provence in the French Wine Scholar class:

1. Château les Valentines "Le Caprice de Clémentine" Côtes de Provence Rosé

A clear very light pale colored pink wine, star-bright with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of strawberries, watermelon, rose water and just a  hint of spice. On the palate it is has fresh raspberry flavors with a touch of spice, it is dry with high acidity, it is medium bodied and it has a medium+ length finish. This wine sells for $16.

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[1] Herodotus, The Persian Wars, Translated by A. D. Godley, (Loeb Classical Library, Nos. 117-120), Cambridge, MA, Harvard University Press (1920), 1:163.

[2] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 263.

[3] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 264.

[4] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 266.

[5] Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman Publishing, 2001), 306-311.

[6] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 268.

[7] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 269-270.

[8] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 243-247; Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 270

[9] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 271.

[10] Howard Johnson & Jancis Robinson The World Atlas of Wine (Mitchell Beazley Publishing, 2005), 144-146.

[11] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 271.

[12] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 272

[13] Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman Publishing, 2001), 306-311.

[14] http://www.wein-plus.eu/en/Bellet+AOC_2.0.3389.0.3628.0.4170.html   

[15] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 274.