The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Rhône region of France. In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography,
climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I
also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class
(FWS –
07 Rhône).
The Viticultural History of
the Rhône Valley
The West
and East sides of the Rhône Valley are separated by the Rhône River and the
wine region is divided into two sub-regions, the Northern Rhône (referred to in
French as Rhône septentrional) and the Southern Rhône (in French Rhône
méridional).
The
valley may look as if it was created by the river, but it is actually the result
of a geological clash between the Massif Central and the Alps, which then developed
a rift valley that was subsequently flooded by the Mediterranean. The granitic
rocks of the northern Rhône are the remainders of volcanic activity in the
Massif Central.
In the
Southern Rhône the land has layers of fluvial and calcareous marine sediments that
formed the Dentelles de Montmirail – a large bar of worn limestone – and Mont
Ventoux. As the Alps were pushed upwards it created the valley separated the
two massifs when then collapsed. The gulf created was then filled by the
Mediterranean, which gradually deposited a base layer of hard limestone and
marl (calcareous clay). Later, the closing of the Strait of Gibraltar
considerably lowered the level of the Mediterranean, with the result that the Rhône
began digging itself a deeper bed, creating fluvial terraces on either side of
the valley and mixing the different elements in the hillside soils: sands, clay
containing flinty pebbles. Today, the valley’s soils consist of 4 different
types of rock: granite, sandy silica, limestone and clay. This bedrock plays an
essential role in the way in the terroir of the Rhône Valley
In the 4th century BC,
the Greeks colonized the Southern Rhône and planted grapes in Marseille, along the Provence-Alpes-Côte
d'Azur, which today is France’s
largest city on the Mediterranean coast and largest commercial port.
In the Northern
Rhône, wine-growing developed in the 1st
century AD by the Romans who built an winery at the Gallo-Roman villa of
Molard, close to the Rhône at Donzère, and created amphorae for storing and
shipping wine up and down the Rhône River. The Romans also founded the town of Vienne and planted
vineyards and the constructed retaining walls for the terraces.
After the fall of the Roman Empire (410
A.D.) and during the Middle Ages (5th to
the 15th century) the Catholic
Monks became the leaders of the wine industry. In the 13th
century the French King Louis VIII granted the Comtat Venaissin to Pope Gregory
X. Then in the 14th century, the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon
and the popes planted extensive vineyards around the city. Pope John XXII, the
second of the seven Avignon popes, had a summer residence built at Châteauneuf
du Pape. Benedict XII, the third Avignon pope, ordered the building of the
Palais des Papes.
At the
end of the 17th century, and for the next 200 years, the port of
Roquemaure (Gard) became a great center for the shipping of goods by river. “Côste
du Rhône” was then the name of an administrative district of the Viguerie
d'Uzès (Gard), famous for its wines. Regulations were introduced in 1650 to
guarantee their provenance and quality. But it was not until the mid-19th
century that “Côste du Rhône” became
“Côtes du Rhône” and was expanded to
include the vineyards on the left bank of the river. Their reputation, built up
over the centuries, was legally validated by the district courts of Tournon and
Uzès in 1936.
In 1933
the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system for wine was
spearheaded by the vine growers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Baron
Pierre Le Roy de Boiseaumariè and co-founded the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine),
the organization responsible for granting AOC status, over which he
presided from 1947 to 1967. Originally
it was established to protect the branding of Châteauneuf-du-Pape but
later became the model for all subsequent AOC decrees establishing limits of the
growing area, grape varieties, local practices, methods of cultivation, minimum
alcoholic content, and harvesting period.[1]
The Rhône Classification System
While the Rhône does not have an official classification
system like Bordeaux or Burgundy, there is a ranking of into four categories
of AOCs:
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1. Cru
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There are 16 named appellations (8 in the Northern Rhône, 8 in
the Southern Rhône) which display only the name of the Cru such as Hermitage,
Côte-Rôtie and Châteuneuf-du-Pape. While there is no official classification
ranking these wines the market demand for these wines results in higher
prices. Some producers may also include on their labels individual vineyard
names for their for top wines such as Côte-Rôtie-La Landonne.
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2. Côtes
du Rhône-Villages –Village Name
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Under
stricter requirements than for the Côtes du Rhône Villages 18 of the communes
of the appellation are authorized to append their respective village name on
the label which are as follows:
(1) Cairanne
(2) Chusclan
(3) Gadagne
(4) Laudun
(5) Massif d'Uchaux
(6) Plan de Dieu
(7) Puyméras
(8) Roaix
(9) Rochegude
(10) Rousset-les-Vignes
(11) Sablét
(12) Saint-Gervais
(13) Saint-Maurice
(14) Saint-Pantaléon-les-Vignes
(15) Séguret
(16) Signargues
(17) Valréas
(18) Visan
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3. Côtes
du Rhône-Villages (CDRV)
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There are 95 villages (communes) that can produce Côtes du
Rhône-Villages AOC all within the Southern Rhône amounting to 3,400 ha (85,00
acres) dedicated to CDRV production. Over
95% of the wines are red which must be a blend of at least 50% Grenache
plus one other red grape, at least 20% of Mourvèdre and/or Syrah plus 20% of
other permitted grapes. CDRV also produces rosé wine which ahs the same
percentages of grapes as red wine. White CDRV can be a blend of Grenache
Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc Blanc and Viognier in any
quantity but must account for 80% of the blend. Other white grapes are
permitted but they cannot exceed 20% of the blend.[2]
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4. Côtes
du Rhône (CDR)
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Côtes du Rhône AOC is the Southern Rhône’s largest appellation
and the base designation for wines from the entire Rhône Valley. There are
about 40 ha (100,00 acres) under vine, which is about ½ of the Rhône Valley.
Over 2/3 of the Rhône Valley’s wines are released as Côtes du Rhône AOC.
There are 1,445 producers and 75 co-operatives that produce CDR. About 95% of
Côtes du Rhône come from the south. In Red CDR and Rosé Grenache is the
principal grape (min. 40%) in the blend. Syrah and/or Mourvèdre can be up to
60%. Carignan, Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarese, Picpoul Noir,
Terret, Grenache Gris and Clariette Rose can make up 30% of the blend. A
maximum of 5% white varieties may be included. For White CDR 80% must be
Grenache Blanc, Clariette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Viognier.
Other grapes such as Ugni Blanc and Piquepoul Blanc cannot exceed 20% of the
blend. Note: these percentages indicate the amount planted in the vineyard,
not what is actually in the bottle.[3]
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Geography of The Northern Rhône
The Northern Rhône is 72 km (45
miles) long from Vinne to Valence, beginning 32 km (20 miles) south of Lyon. The
Rhône River begins in the north in Switzerland and as it makes it way down
through France it widens and then runs between Lyons and Avignon. The Rhône
Valley divides neatly into north/south regions at the town of Valence.
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Climate of The Northern Rhône
The Northern Rhône has a Continental
climate that meets up with a Mediterranean climate. It experiences greater
seasonal temperature swings, more rainfall, and fewer annual hours of
sunshine than the southern appellations. The region also experiences a cold,
dry Mistral wind that blows down from the Massif Central and affects the
Northern Rhône at an average speed of 60 mph and do so about 150 days of the
year, mostly from winter to early spring. While the wind may be strong enough
at times to strip the vines it also has the benefit of drying vineyards which
prevents the formation of mold and mildew on the vines.
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Soils of The Northern Rhône
Heat-retaining granitic and schistous soils define much of the
North: the steeply sloped vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Hermitage are
carved out of this bedrock. Fine sand and loess topsoil throughout the
Northern Rhône is prone to erosion, a threat partially mitigated by terrace
construction. Near the commune of Condrieu, the thin topsoil is rich with
powdery, decomposed mica, known locally as arzelle. The soils become
heavier with clay in the southern section of St-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage and
St-Péray.
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White Grapes of The Northern Rhône
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Viognier
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Genetic research links Viogner to Mondeuse
Blanche. It is a low-yielding late-ripening grape variety that tends to have
higher sugar producing highly aromatic wines with low acidity and higher
alcohol. It is the only permitted grape for the Condrieu AOC.
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Marsanne
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Marsanne (also
known as Ermitage) is a white wine-grape known for its role in the
white wines of the Hermitage AOC. Along with Roussanne, the two grapes are
used to make white wines from Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and the
sparkling whites of Saint-Peray. It is predominantly used to produce white
wines but it is also used to create sweet wines from dried grapes, the most
well-known is Chapoutier’s Hermitage Vin de Paille.
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Roussanne
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The berries are distinguished by their russet color (roux
in French) when ripe which is probably the origin for the grape’s name. It
tends to produce wines with the aroma of flowery herbal tea. In warm
climates, it produces wines of richness, with flavors of honey and pear, and
full body. In cooler climates it is more floral and more delicate, with
higher acidity. It can be susceptible to mildew; it has poor resistance to
drought and wind and it can experience late and/or uneven ripening with
irregular yields. Roussanne is often blended with Marsanne and the two are
the only white grapes allowed in Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Hermitage AOC and
Saint-Joseph AOC.[4]
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Red Grapes of The Northern Rhône
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Syrah
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It is often asserted that Syrah has its origin in Persia
(modern-day Iran) around the city of Shiraz. However, Professor Carole
Meredith’s teach at U.C. Davis proved that Syrah is indigenous to the Rhône
and that it is a cross between two obscure grapes native to France, Dureza
and Mondeuse Blanche. In the Northern Rhône, the Syrah grape
achieves its classic status. The wines are full-bodied, firm, savory, and
manifest a host of signature secondary aromas including smoke, grilled meat,
olive, lavender, and peppercorn. The wines are typically fermented and aged
in large oak foudres, although some producers are now experimenting with new barriques.
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AOCs of The Northern Rhône
There are 8 AOCs in the Northern
Rhône, from North to South they are as follows:
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Côte-Rôtie
AOC
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Côte-Rôtie received AOC status in 1940. The name means the
“roasted slope.” It is a red wine based on Syrah but up to 20% Viognier may
be added. It is the northernmost appellation in the Northern Rhône Valley, is
home to some of France’s steepest vineyards with a gradient of 55° or more. The
slopes rises up a southeasterly aspect behind the riverside town of Ampuis,
home to. While Côte-Rôtie has grown to include other communes, the two slopes
nearest Ampuis—the Côte Brune and Côte Blonde—are considered the heart of the
appellation’s terroir. The wines derived from these two hillsides are said to
mirror their feminine namesakes: Côte Blonde yields softer, alluring wines
whereas the wines of Côte Brune are stronger and more assertive. E. Guigal is
the largest producer in the appellation and the Côte-Rôtie La Landonne is his
vineyard designate, a cru bottled wine that can sell for as much as the first
growths of Bordeaux. Other important producers include: Domaine Clusel-Roch,
Delas Frères, Domaine , Jean-Michel Gerin, Domaine Jean-Luc et Jean-Paul
Jamet, Domaine Michel et Stephane Ogier, Domaine Rene Rostaing,
Tardieu-Laurent.
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Condrieu
AOC
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Condrieu received AOC status in 1940. The name is from the
French coin de ruisseau meaning “corner of the brook”.[5] It is white wine
appellation just south of Côte-Rôtie that produces only white wines made from
100% Viognier. The appellation has less than 200 delimited hectares (about
494 acres). Significant producers include Georges Vernay, Yves Cuilleron, and
André Perret.
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Château
Grillet AOC
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Château Grillet AOP is a monopole within Condrieu, that
produces only white wines made from 100% Viognier. The whole appellation
consists of only 3.8 hectares (9.4 acres.) In 1830 the Neyret-Gachet family
acquired the Château-Grillet estate and retained ownership until 2011 when it
was purchased by French billionaire François Pinault who also owns Château
Latour in Bordeaux and the 162-acre Araujo Estate in Calistoga
in the Napa Valley. Today, Isabelle Baratin manages the production and sale
of the estate’s single wine: Vin Blanc de Château-Grillet of which only
10,000 bottles are produced each year. The estate also produces two Brandies:
Fine du Château-Grillet and Marc du Château-Grillet. The former is distilled
from the Château-Grillet wine while the latter is a pomace brandy.
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St-Joseph
AOC
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St-Joseph received AOC status in 1956. It is located north of
Cornas and the appellation’s borders have been greatly enlarged from the
original delimited area near the commune of Tournon-sur-Rhône, opposite the
hill of Hermitage. Today the AOC extends through Condrieu in the north to
St-Péray in the south. The appellation produces red wine from Syrah and since
1979 it has been allowed to blend in up to 10% Marsanne and Roussanne which
is often co-fermented which has the advantage of stabilizing red wine color
and moderating tannin extraction.
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Hermitage
AOC
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Hermitage received AOC status in 1937. The red wines are based
on Syrah and producers have the option of adding a combined total of 15% Marsanne
and Roussanne. Dry white wines are also produced from a blend of Marsanne and
Roussanne. A small amount of Vin de Paille is also produced in this region, a
style revived by Gérard Chave in the 1970s and more recently by Chapoutier.
The vineyards are above the village of Tain-l’Hermitage on a south-facing
hill. Four major producers dominate the terraced hill: the singular
Jean-Louis Chave and the negociants Delas, M. Chapoutier and Jaboulet.
Jaboulet’s premier wine “La Chapelle, is named for a small hillside chapel
that stands in commemoration of Gaspard de Stérimberg, a
Crusader-turned-hermit who lived a life of asceticism atop the hill. The
chapel is located within the climat of L’Hermite. Other important climats
of Hermitage include le Méal, les Bessards, Gréffieux, Beaume and Péléat.
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Crozes-Hermitage
AOC
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Crozes-Hermitage received AOC status in 1937 and was expanded
in 1952. It is located behind the hill of Hermitage. The appellation is
fairly large by Northern Rhône standards, with its 1,238 hectares accounting
for approximately half of the entire region’s 2,400 hectares (about 5930 acres).
The red wines are based on Syrah and producers may add up to 15% Marsanne and
Roussanne. Crozes-Hermitage are generally considered lighter and less
ageworthy than Hermitage.
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Cornas
AOC
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The name Cornas is Celtic for “burnt earth”, and the first
written sources mention wine in the region as early as 885. Cornas became am
AOC in 1938, but the local producers did not bottle their own wine until 1950.
This AOC produces only 100% Syrah bottled
as a varietal wine. The heat of the sun is maintained by the granite soil
(gore) and the appellation is shielded from cooling le mistral
winds, this makes Cornas one of the warmest ACOs in the Northern Rhône. The
land is divided among four lieux-dits: Les Reynards, La Côte, Les
Chaillot, and Les Mazards. At just over 100 hectares (about 247 acres) under vine it is the smallest red wine
appellations of the Northern Rhône. One of the most prominent producers is Auguste
Clape whose grapes for Cornas and Cornas “Renaissance” are all
harvested by hand, sorted and not de-stemmed and the wine is aged for 22
months in 6 or 12 hl-foudres.[6]
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Saint-Péray
AOC
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St-Péray became am AOC in 1938. It is located near Valence and
has a cooler micro-climate than most of the Northern Rhône. The vineyards are
planted on clay, sand and stone soils as well as granite further north. The
AOC produces exclusively white wine from Marsanne (90% of the planted area) and
Roussanne, most of which is méthode traditionelle mousseux sparkling
wine (80%) but some still wine is also produced.
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The Northern Rhône Satellite AOCs
The Diois (pronounced “Dee-wah”) is an isolated region about
30 miles east of the Rhône River, located east of the town of Valence. The
vineyards of Die are in the French department of the Drôme on the border area
between the northern and southern sub-regions of the Côtes du Rhône AOC area.
The vineyards are at altitudes of up to 700 meters (2800 feet) are among the
highest in France and are planted on chalky argilliferous soil that retains
enough of its rainwater to maintain a constant supply to the vines during the
long dry summers. Winemaking in this region can be traced back over two
thousand years. There are 4 minor appellations of the Northern Rhône Southeast
of Valence that lie on the Drôme River, a tributary of the Rhône. Most of the
production is in sparkling wine.
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1. Coteaux
de Die AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1993. The AOC produces light, still, white wines from 100%
Clairette in the area around the town of Die, between the Rhone river and the
foothills of the Alps.
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2. Crémant
de Die AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1993. Crémant de Die AOC produces two
styles of sparkling wines:
(1) Method
Traditionnelle was previously made from 100% Clairette but now Aligote and Muscat are now
included. It is made brut in style, with a maximum 15 grams per
liter of sugar after dosage.
(2) Method Dioise Ancestrale is rustic
sparkling wines made with a minimum of 75% Muscat à Petit Grains with a
minimum 35 grams per liter of residual sugar.
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3. Clairette
de Die AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1942. It is a sparkling wine region produced in accordance with
the traditional method, with an initial fermentation in the vat and then a
second in the bottle. It is made from the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (75%
minimum) and Clairette (25% maximum) grape varieties.
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4. Châtillon-en-Diois
AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1975. It produces still white wines based on Aligoté and Chardonnay
as well as still Red and Rosé wines based on Gamay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.
Production of the red and rosé varieties is limited to the vines surrounding
the village of the same name, whereas the white variety is produced in
thirteen communes.[7]
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The Southern Rhône
The
Southern Rhône accounts for about 95% of all wine produced in the Rhône Valley,
most of which is red wine. While Northern Rhône red wines are either entirely
or mostly Syrah with a little Viognier, Marsanne or Roussanne blended the
southern appellations are generally blends of several red grapes, the most
important being Grenache followed by Mourvèdre and Syrah. Cinsault is also a
major red grape in the Southern Rhône, but acreage is on the decline.
Geography of The Southern Rhône
The Rhône Valley divides into the north/south by a gap of 40
km (25 miles) between the towns of Valance and Montelimar, in which almost no
vines are grown.
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Climate of The Southern Rhône
The Southern Rhône’s climate is Mediterranean and the le mistral wind blows across the flat
southern valley. Consequently many growers plant their vines at an angle so
that the wind might eventually blow them upright. The hot summers are
moderated by significant diurnal swings, and mild winters follow usually
heavy autumnal rains.
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Soils of The Southern Rhône
The Southern Rhône has predominantly alluvial soils, deposited
over limestone then the landscape shifts to become rugged garrigue scrubland.
Sand, gravel, and clay have been left in behind from the river and larger
stones have been dumped in the valley’s mounds by post-ice age glacial melt.
In Châteauneuf-du-Pape there are the “pudding stones” known as galets
that consist of quartzite that have been made smooth by the river. The galets
retain the day-time heat and then warm the vines at night.
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White Grapes of The Southern Rhône
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Bourboulenc
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One of the 13 permitted Châteauneuf-du-Pape varietals. It is a
late-ripening grape variety with tight bunches of large grapes, that can be
prone to rot. The grape creates wines with moderate to high acidity with
ample body, citrus aromas with a hint of smoke. It provides freshness and
acidity in blends. The grape is found in the Southern Rhône, Provence, the
Languedoc and is an important grape min the white wines from the Minervois
and Corbières.[8]
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Clairette
Blanche
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Clairette Blanche tends to produce wines that are high in
alcohol with low acidity that tend to oxidize easily. These problems have
sometimes been partially overcome by blending it with high-acid varieties
such as Piquepoul Blanc or used to make vermouth. The grape is found in the
Southern Rhône, Provence and the Languedoc. The white wines of Clairette de
Die AOC are made entirely of Clairette Blanche and it is one of the 13 grape
varieties permitted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC.
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Grenache
Blanc
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This is a white wine grape that is related to the more
well-known red grape Grenache (a.k.a Grenache Noir). It is a vigorous vine which
if not curtailed can lead to overproduction and flabbiness. Its wines are
characterized by high alcohol and low acidity, with green-apple, stone fruit,
citrus, and or herbaceous aromas and it is often blended with Roussanne. Up
to 10% Grenache Blanc is permitted to be included in the red wines of the
Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC. About a 1/3 of France’s Grenache Blanc is grown
and in the Rivesaltes AOC, it is also used as a blending component in some of
the regions vin doux naturel wines.
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Muscat
Blanc à Petits Grains
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A member of the Muscat family, “à Petits” refers to its small
berry size and tight clusters. It is a highly mutative grape and there are
strains of the vine known as Frontignac
and Brown Muscat that produce berries that are pink or reddish brown
and it can change from one color one year to a different color the next. It
is known under a variety of local names such as Muscat Blanc, Muscat Canelli, and Moscato Bianco.[9]
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Picardan
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Also known as Araignan and Oeillade Blanche, it is makes
light and neutral wines in character so it is primarily used as a blending
grape as one of the 13 varieties permitted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC.[10]
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Piquepoul
Blanc
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The name Piquepoul (pronounced peek-pool), means “lip
stinger”, it is
related to Picpoul Noir
and Picpoul
Gris and is a native grape of the
Languedoc region of Southern France, records from the early 17th
century indicate that it was blended with Clairette to form the popular sweet
Picardan wine (not to be confused with the Châteauneuf du Pape varietal of
the same name) which was exported by Dutch wine traders from Languedoc
throughout Northern Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries.
After the phylloxera devastated most of the vines at the end of the 19th
century, the grape was not widely replanted. Today it is best known from
Picpoul de Pinet AOC, the crisp light green wine of the Pinet Region in the
Côteaux de Languedoc.
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Roussanne
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In the Southern Rhône appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC
it is one of six white grapes allowed, along with Grenache Blanc, Piquepoul
Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picardan. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape
appellation also allows it to be blended into red wines.
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Ugni Blanc
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Known as Trebbiano in its home in Italy, it is primarily a blending grape used
to add acidity to a blend. In France it is the most widely
planted white grape particularly along the Provençal coast, in the Gironde
and Charente. It is the key ingredient in both Cognac and Armagnac.
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Red Grapes of The Southern Rhône
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Carignan
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Also
known as Carignane in the USA, Cariñena in Spain, Carignano in Italy
Mazuelo in Rioja, Bovale Grande and Samsó. It is grown in France and is
native to Aragon in northern Spain. It is a late ripening variety so it is
grown primarily in warm regions. It is susceptible to both powdery mildew as
well as downy mildew so it needs extensive spraying unless it is in a dry
climate. It is not suitable for mechanical harvesting because its stalks are
particularly tough. It tends to produce wines with high tannin, acidity and
color. This makes it an excellent addition to red wine blends that have
plenty of aroma and flavor, but lack body and depth of color. As a varietal
wine it tends towards aromas of dark and black fruits, pepper, licorice, with
spicy and savory accents but it is usually blended with other varietals,
particularly Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
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Cinsaut
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Often
spelled Cinsault, it is a heat tolerant grape and is the fourth most widely planted
grape variety in France. It is widely used for rosé wines in Provence and
grows well in the Languedoc-Roussillon where it is often blended with grapes
such as Grenache and Carignan to
add softness and bouquet. In the Southern Rhône it is one of the permitted minor
grape varieties in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape
blend. In South Africa, it was known as “Hermitage” and in 1925 it was
crossed with Pinot Noir to create Pinotage. It tends to make wines that are
low in tannin and it is generally used in blends for its perfume with red
berry aromas.
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Grenache
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A late ripening variety that needs heat to fully develop, on
its own it can produce
spicy wines, berry-flavored that are soft on the palate with red fruit
flavors (raspberry and strawberry) with a subtle, white pepper spice note and
develop leather and tar aromas as it ages. But it tends
to lack color, tannin and acidity so in the Rhône it is usually blended with
Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut. It
is also prone to oxidation with even young examples having the potential to
show browning or “bricking” coloration.
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Mourvèdre
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Syrah
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The major grape of the Northern Rhône (see notes above), in
the south it plays a more supporting role to Grenache with Mourvèdre.
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Rhône Valley IGPs
The Rhône IGPs are wines regulated by the INAO but are not
subject to the same strict standards of the AOCs. They often use the same
grape varieties as the AOCs but may also use lesser-known local varietals that
are not allowed in the Côtes du Rhône as well as international varieties such
as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The following are examples of
the types of IGPs found in the Rhône.
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IGP
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Type
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1.
Ardeche IGP
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Departmental IGP
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The
IGP covers red, white and rosé wines that are made in the Ardeche department
in the south of France. Ardeche sits on the western banks of the Rhone river
and is an important part of the northern Rhône wine region: the AOC-level appellations Saint-Joseph,
Cornas and Saint-Peray are located here.[13]
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2. Méditérranée IGP
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Regional IGP
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An
IGP title covering wines made in a large area on the southeast coast of
France, roughly corresponding to the Provence wine region, as well as a part
of the Rhône Valley.
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3. Principauté-D'Orange
IGP
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Zonal IGP
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It is based around the city of Orange in the Southern Rhone in
the north-west corner of the département of Vaucluse. The wines display
similar characteristics to the Cotes du Rhone wines that are produced in the
same region.
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The Southern Rhône Cru AOCs
There are 8 Southern Crus
AOCs/AOPs which are as follows:
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1.
Vinsobres AOC
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Established as an AOC in 2006 for 100% red wines that must contain at least 50%
Grenache and 25% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. The
vineyards are planted at an elevation of 360 meter (1,200 feet) and
experience a Mediterranean climate with alpine influences and significant
diurnal; temperatures shifts. The vineyards are planted on sand and clay with
pockets of gravel and limestone. [14]
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2.
Rasteau AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1945. It produces dry and unfortified
reds but only from fruit grown in the commune of Rasteau itself. But it is
more known for its VDN wines. See below under “Southern
Rhône Vin Doux Naturel AOCs”.
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3.
Gigondas AOC
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The AOC was established in 1971. The region has a hot sunny
climate with significant summer diurnal swings as cold air descends from the
Dentelles de Montmirail, a
vertical comb of rock jutting out of the plain between the Rhône river and
the Luberon-Ventoux mountains. The vineyards are planted northwest
and west facing slopes on red clay alluvial soils. The AOC produces
predominantly red wine (99%) and a very small amount of rosé (1%) wine. The
red wines contain a minimum 50% Grenache, typically blended with smaller proportions
of Syrah and Mourvèdre. A maximum 10% of other Rhône grape varieties (except
for Carignan) are permitted to be planted in the vineyard. The wines are
similar in style to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.[15]
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4.
Vacqueyras AOC
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The AOC was established in 1990. It is located at the foot of
the Dentelles de Montmirail and like Gigondas it also benefits from its evening
cool breezes. About 97% of the wines are red based on minimum 50% Grenache,
with the remaining consisting of Syrah and Mourvèdre. The AOC also produces a
small amount of white (2%) based on Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne
and Viognier. A very small amount of rosé (1%) wine is also produced.[16]
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5.
Beaumes de Venise AOC
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Established as an AOC in 2005, the vineyards are located on
the south side of the Dentelles de Montmirail, which acts as a win break from
the Mistral. The soils consist mainly of a blend of marl, limestone and clay.
The AOC produces red wines based on a minimum 50% Grenache as well as Vin
Doux Naturel wines.
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6.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC
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Château La Nerthe released the first estate-bottled
Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1785. Today, a papal crest embossed on the shoulder of
the bottle marks all estate-bottled wines from the appellation. The AOC designation
was originally established in
1923 and were the first Appellation Contrôlée rules in France. The regulations
were spearheaded by Baron Pierre le Roy of Château Fortia. The original AOC
rules allowed 10 varieties, and were amended to 13 in 1936 and 18 in 2009.[17] The
AOC consists of over 3000 hectares with various soil consisting of galets (smooth river stones), calcareous
clay and sand. Grenache is generally the principal variety in red wines from
the appellation and Château Rayas often makes their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge
from 100% Grenache. However Château de Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge
is made from predominently Mourvèdre which they blend with every authorized grape
variety. The required minimum potential alcoholic strength is 12.5%, the
highest in France for dry AOC wines, but it is not difficult to find top-end cuvées
that contain 14.5% - 15% or more. AOC regulations also require that producers
declassify or discard at least 2% of harvested grapes (le râpé), to
ensure against under-ripeness. Traditional producers tend to use old oak foudres
for extended aging, and some may even bottle a vintage from cask as it is
sold, creating great variation in individual bottlings of the same wine.
Carbonic maceration, barrique aging and new vinification techniques
allow experimentation. In addition, each producer's assemblage is
critical to the style. While the appellation’s regulations predate every
other region in France, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is just beginning to modernize
itself and explore its viticultural diversity. The 13 permitted grapes of
Châteauneuf-du-Pape are as follows:
1. Grenache (Noir/Blanc/Gris)
2. Mourvèdre
3. Syrah
4. Cinsault
5. Counoise
6. Picpoul (Noir/Blanc/Gris)
7. Terret Noir
8. Bourboulenc
9. Clairette/Clairette Rosé
10. Roussanne
11. Vaccarèse
12. Picardan
13. Muscardin
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7.
Lirac AOC
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The AOC was established in 1945. It is located on the western
shore (“right bank”) of
the Rhône River bordering
on the neighboring cru of Tavel AOC, opposite Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is named after the village of Lirac
and is spread over 4 communes. The wines can be very similar to the Côtes du
Rhône-Villages and are made in red, white, and rosé versions. The red grapes
include Grenache Noir,
Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan. White grapes include Grenache
Blanc, Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre,
Cinsault, Carignan, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Picpoul, Marsanne, Rousanne,
and Viognier. In 1863 of Lirac became the entry point for phylloxera into
France, even though it has sandier soil which are commonly believed to be
inhospitable to the pest.[18]
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8.
Tavel AOC
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The AOC was established in 1936. Located just south of Lirac, it
is the only AOC in France dedicated exclusively to rosé wines. Tavel has long
been regarded as the premier The wines are based on Grenache and made in a
dry style. The vineyards are planted with 9 varieties in 3 distinct soil
types: Sharp, flat slabs of limestone called “Les Vestide”, pebbly soils called
“Vallongue” and a mixture of sand and stone called “Olivet.” Each contributes
its own influence to the wines, creating Rose with a deep pink hue, lots of
red fruits, berry and stone fruit flavors.
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Other Southern Rhône AOCs
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1.
Côtes du Vivarais AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1999. It is located on the west
(“right”) bank of the Rhône River, immediately opposite of the Grignan-les-Adhémar.
The wines are produced in 9
communes of the Ardèche department, and in 5 communes of the department of
the Gard. The region is cooler than the rest of the Southern Rhône
and it receives more rain. The soils are shallow and consist predominantly of
limestone with pockets of gravel. The AOC produces an equal amount of red (47%)
and rosé (47%) made from Grenache and Syrah with a small amount of white wine
(6%) from Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne.[19]
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2.
Grignan-les-Adhémar AOC
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Established as an in 1973. It was formerly known as Côteaux du Tricastin, in 2010
it changed its name in order to no longer be associated with the
troubled Tricastin nuclear plant that had a meltdown in 2008. It is the
Southern Rhône Valley’s northernmost appellation located directly south of
Montélimar. The wines are
produced in 21 communes in the department of Drôme on the east bank of the
Rhône River in a triangle bounded by Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux, Montélimar, and
Grignan; opposite the Côtes du Vivarais AOC on the right bank. About 72% of
the production is red wine, 22% is rosé both of which is based on
Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre.
A small amount of white wine (6%) is produced from Grenache Blanc, Clairette,
Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier.
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3.
Ventoux AOC
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Established as an in 1973, it was known as Côtes du Ventoux
AOC until 2009. It is located
40 km (25 miles) northeast of Avignon and is named after Mount Ventoux. About
64% of the production is red and 32% is rosé from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault,
and Carignan. About 4% is white wine based on Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Bourboulenc. Production
is dominated by co-ops.[20]
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4.
Côtes du Luberon AOC
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Established as an in 1973, it is located in the southeastern side of the Southern Rhône.
It has a Mediterranean climate with continental influences. Vineyards are
planted on calcerous marl,
Miocene sands and limestone. About 28% of the production is red wine made from
60% Grenache Noir with a minimum of 10% Syrah, a maximum of 20% Cinsault
and/or Mourvèdre and/or Carignan, and a maximum 20% of Counoise, Gamay Noir,
Pinot Noir. The largest production is Rosé wine (48%) are made from the same
grapes as for the red, and up to 20% of the allowed varieties for white wine
may be used. About 24% of production is white wines are from a maximum of 50%
Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc and together a maximum of 20% Roussanne
and Marsanne.
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5.
Costières de Nîmes AOC
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Established as an AOC in the Rhône Valley in 2004, it was
previously appellation of Languedoc. This is the westernmost AOC in the
Southern Rhône. To the
west, adjoins the regions of the Southern Rhône Valley, Provence, and
Languedoc. It experiences
very hot temperatures during the summer and near drought conditions and from
June to August it regularly reaches 95°F, but in the evening
it receives cooling winds from the Petite Camargue, a marshy plain to
the west of the Petit Rhône.
The climate of the region is also heavily influenced by the Mistral winds that
reduce the humidity. About 50% of the production is red wine based on
Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre as well as some Carignan. About 43% of the
production is Rosé and the remaining 7% is devoted to white wine production.
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6.
Clairette de Bellegarde AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1949. It is a very fragmented growing area that lies on the
Bellegarde terrace at an altitude of 60 meters. It has a Mediterranean
climate, tempered by the Mistral and Tramontana winds.[21] It is a
very small single-commune appellation within Costières de Nimes that consists
of only 7 ha (17 acres) that produces 100% white wines made from the
Clairette grape by one cooperative.[22]
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Southern Rhône Vin Doux Naturel AOCs
There are two villages that produce fortified sweet wines that
have their own AOC. By law they must have at least 11% residual sugar and at
least 15% alcohol.
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1.
Muscat de Beaumes de Venise AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1945. The vineyards are planted on
steep hillsides that are terraced with man-made walls of local river rocks
called ‘restanque’. About 90% of the wine is produced by the local
co-operative, the Vignerons de Beaumes-de-Venise, from grapes sourced
throughout the communes of Beaumes-de-Venis and Aubignan. The wines are made
from 100% Muscat à Petits
Grains Noir and Blanc that are harvested by hand with passes through the
vineyard. The grape’s must have a sugar content of over 252g/L. Mutage, the
addition of alcohol to the wine, must be performed with pure alcohol of at
least 96%, when the musts contain 5% to 10% alcohol.[23]
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2.
Rasteau AOC
|
Established as an AOC in 1945. It produces dry and unfortified
reds but only from fruit grown in the commune of Rasteau itself. The region
is more known for Rasteau vin doux naturel wines may be white, rosé,
or red and they are based on Grenache Blanc, Grenache Blanc Gris, and Grenache
Blanc Noir with up to 10% of any CDR grape varieties. The communes of Rasteau,
Cairanne, and Sablet are eligible for the Rasteau AOC. In 2011, vignerons
adopted the labeling terminology established by the producers of
Rivesaltes in Roussillon. White VDN is labeled etho and red VDN
labeled tuilé indicates wines displaying a more oxidative character
and that must be aged at least 3 years prior to release. Fresher
versions of white and red Rasteau VDN wines are labeled blanc and grenat,
whereas producers may affix the term Hors d’age to wines that have
matured for at least 5 years prior to release. Wines may also be rancio
have been made in a deliberately oxidative and maderized style in which the
wine is left in open barrels, exposed to sunlight and higher temperatures.[24]
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Wines Tasted
The
following wines were tasted in the French Wine Scholar class:
1. 2012 E. Guigal Condrieu
The
grapes for this wine come from 30 year old Viognier vines, it is 1/3 barrel
fermented and 2/3 fermented in stainless steel and it underwent 100% malolactic
fermentation. It was aged in 100% new oak barrels. A clear youthful white wine,
lemon in color with slight tint of green and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it
has pronounced aromas of orange rind, lemon-lime, stonefruits (peach, apricot),
pineapple, intense floral aromas, minor notes of hazelnut. On the palate it is
dry, with moderate acidity, it is full bodied and very rich with a creamy
texture and a long finish. This wine sells for $53.
2. 2013 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
This
wine consists of equal parts Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc.
A clear youthful white wine, lemon in color with slight tint of green and
medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean, it has moderate intense aromas of lemon
pledge, melon rind, and scented hand soap. On the palate it is dry, somewhat
tart with a salty minerality, moderate acidity with medium+ body and a moderate
length finish. This wine sells for $30
3. 2013 Vignerons de Tavel “Les Lauzeraies”
Tavel
This
wine consists of 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, 10% Mouvedre. It is a clear
salmon-pink wine with a watery rim and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is
clean with moderate intense aromas of plum, cherry, raspberry, blood orange,
with a hint of spice and a minor floral note. On the palate it has flavors of
tart red fruits, it is dry with medium acidity, it is medium bodied with a
moderate length finish. This wine sells for $14
4. 2010 Feraud Brunel Côtes du Rhône Village
An
opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to ruby at the rim with moderate
viscosity and staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense
aromas of plums, blueberries, smoke, hint of damp earth, and violets. On the
palate it has flavors of baked black fruits, figs, backed blueberries and black
pepper, it is dry with coarse moderate tannins, moderate acidity, medium+
alcohol and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $25
5. 2011 Raymond Fabre Crozes-Hermitage
An
opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to ruby at the rim with moderate
viscosity and staining tears. On the nose it is “clean” with moderate intense
aromas of baked red fruits, stewed plums, black cherries, smoke, dried meat, old
leather, and white pepper. On the palate this wine has flavors of dried
blackberries, black olive, black pepper, black walnut, and burned tobacco. It
is dry with silky moderate tannins, medium acidity and a moderate length finish.
This wine sells for $20
6. 2011 Jean-Michel Stephan “Vin Nature”
Cote Rotie
This
wine consists of 90% Syrah, 10% Viognier. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple
at the core to violet at the rim with moderate viscosity, staining tears with
minor sediment. On the nose it is “clean” with moderate intense aromas of stewed
plums, black licorice, old gym socks, charcoal, smoked meats, and a very
distinct medicinal/burnt rubber quality. On the palate it has flavors of burnt
black fruits, the medicinal character carries over and overwhelms the fruit, it
is dry with moderate tannins, moderate acidity and a medium length finish. This
is an offensive wine (like a person who does not bathe or use deodorant) that sells
for $65
7. 2010 Domaine Santa Duc “Cuvee Tradition”
Gigondas
This
wine consists of 75% Grenache, 10% Mouvedre, 10% Syrah, and 5% Cinsault. It is
an opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core to hints of garnet at the rim with
moderate viscosity and staining tears. On the nose it is “clean” with moderate
intense aromas of black plums, smoked meat, beef jerky, old leather, desiccated
flowers and black pepper. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is dry with
moderate tannins, medium acidity, medium+ alcohol and a moderate length finish.
This wine sells for $50.
8. 2009 Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This
wine consists of 65% Grenache, 15% Mouvedre, 15% Syrah, and 5%
Cinsault/Clairette. An opage red wine with moderate intensity, ruby at the core
with a touch of garnet at the rim and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
fresh cherries, raspberries, cherry-cola, hints of tar, white mushrooms, minor
hints of spice. On the palate it is dry but the fruit is fresh, it has refined
moderate tannins, medium+ alcohol, moderate acidity and a medium+ length
finish. The best wine in the lineup, it sells for $80
9. 2010 Cave de Rasteau “Signature” Rasteau
VDN
This
wine is made from fortified 100% Grenache from 50+ old vines. It is an opaque
dark red wine with high viscosity. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas
of boysenberry, dried plums, dates and maple syrup. On the palate it is sweet
but not cloying, it is silky with moderate- tannins, it has moderate acidity,
high alcohol and a medium length finish. This wine sells for $20
[2] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 253.
[3] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine
Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 252-253.
[4] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 595.
[5] Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman Publishing, 2001), 235-240
[8] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 100.
[9] Oz Clarke and Margaret Rand, Encyclopedia of Grapes,
(Webster International Publishers, 2001), 146.
[10] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford
Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 160.
[11] Oz Clarke and Margaret Rand, Encyclopedia of Grapes,
(Webster International Publishers, 2001), 140-141.
[12] Oz Clarke and Margaret Rand, Encyclopedia of Grapes,
(Webster International Publishers, 2001), 459-460.
[14] http://www.rhone-wines.com/en/appellation/vinsobres ; Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 256.
[15] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 256.
[16] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 256.
[17] Karen
MacNeil, The Wine Bible
(Workman Publishing, 2001), 249.
[18] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford
Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 403.
[19] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 258.
[20] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 258.
[21] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 259.
[24] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar
Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 257.
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