The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Languedoc & Roussillon regions of
France. I had originally planned to include my notes on Provence which was
covered on the same day in the French Wine Scholar class. But, due to the
length of the notes I decided to post them separately (France Unit 9b - Provence). In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography,
climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I
also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class
(FWS –
08 Provence, Languedoc & Roussillon).
The Viticultural
History Languedoc & Roussillon
The Languedoc and Roussillon regions are historically, geographically,
topographically and enologically two distinct regions but in 1972 they were
joined administratively.[1] The name of the Languedoc means “Langue d’Oc” or “Language of Oc”, also
known as “Occitan” in which “Oc” means, “Yes.”
One of the things I have noticed in reading wine text books is that there
tends to be a lot of repetition of the same historical events. The Languedoc
(as well as the rest of France, Italy and other Old World countries) has a long
history of winemaking beginning with the Greeks followed by the Romans, the
Catholic monks of the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the Modern Age. The
Languedoc, along with the rest of France, was then devastated by the Phyloxera
plague, World War I and World War II. What is important then in studying the Viticultural History of these regions are to know the unique
events and people that had a major impact on the development of winemaking in
the region. It is that type of information that tends to appear on a French
Wine Scholar, WSET or Sommelier exam.
For example, in 1285 a physician/alchemist in Montpellier
named Arnaud de Villeneuve developed the craft of “mutage”; which
refers to the process of arresting a fermentation by adding neutral grape spirit.
This process created the fortified Vin Doux Naturel wines about 400 years
before the creation of the fortified Port wines.
Another
interesting fact about the Languedoc is that it is the historical birthplace for
sparkling wine! While most people associate sparkling wine with the Champagne
region and Dom Pérignon, it
was actually developed 150 years earlier in the Languedoc during the Renaissance. In 1531 while
crafting Blanquette de Limoux the Monks of St. Hilaire developed sparkling wine.[2]
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Geography of the Languedoc
The Languedoc is located in the
southern most area of France on the south-western Mediterranean coastline bordering the
Rhône Valley to the north-east and Roussillon to the south. It stretches 240 km (150 miles)
from the Banyuls AOC at the Spanish border and Pyrenees in the west, along
the coast of the Mediterranean Sea to the Rhone River and Provence in the
east. The
northern boundaries of the region sit on the Massif Central with the Cévennes
mountain ranges and valleys dominating the area. Many vineyards are located
along the Hérault River.[3] About ¾ of the region is bordered by mountain ranges and the other ¼
borders the Mediterranean Sea. The Languedoc covers 4 French departments from
north to south: Lozère, Gard, Hérault
and Aude.
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Climate of the Languedoc
The Languedoc has a Mediterranean
climate due to the influence of the Mediterranean Sea and it experiences mild
winters and hot, dry summers. Although the proximity to the sea can bring
potentially dangerous mold-causing moisture in the vineyards there are two
strong winds from the north, known as Tramontane and Mistral, that dry the
and cool the region at night during the summer.
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Soils of the Languedoc
Due to the build up of remains
of shellfish, the Languedoc has a high degree of chalk, limestone and gravel based
soils inland to more alluvial soils near the coast. Some of the more highly rated
vineyards are laid on top of ancient riverbed stones. There is also the Garrigue which refers to the low-growing
vegetation on the limestone hills where bushy, fragrant plants grow wild such
as juniper, thyme, rosemary and lavender. [4]
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Topography of the Languedoc
*Insert Topographical map of
Languedoc
The Languedoc can be divided
into 3 topographical zones: The Coastal Plains, Hillsides/Mountainsides, and
the Atlantic corridor.
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Viticultural Practices of the Languedoc
In the Languedoc the
traditional pruning system is the Gobelet “bush vines” method but many
vineyards are now transitioning to the Guyot training method. In general,
vines are planted east-west facing in order to provide the maximum sun
exposure. During the summer there is a high risk of drought so with
irrigation may be permitted during May.
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Languedoc AOC White Grapes
The Languedoc has a wide array
of grapes for winemakers to choose from, most of them can also be found in
the Rhône, the Southwest and there are even a few from Bordeaux and Bourgogne. There
are 12 major white wine grapes approved for AOC wines which are as follows,
listed in order of importance:
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(1) Grenache Blanc
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(7) Roussanne
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(2) Grenache Gris
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(8) Maccabeu
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(3) Bouboulenc
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(9) Muscat
Blanc à Petits Grains
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(4) Clairette
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(10) Mauzac
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(5) Piquepoul Blanc
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(11) Chardonnay
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(6) Rolle (a.k.a Vermentino)
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(12) Chenin Blanc
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Languedoc AOC Red Grapes
There are 15 major red wine grapes approved for AOC wines which
are as follows, listed in order of importance:
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(1) Grenache Noir
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(9) Terret Noir
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(2) Carignan
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(10) Aspiran
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(3) Mourvèdre
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(11) Cabernet Sauvignon
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(4) Syrah
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(12) Cabernet Franc
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(5) Cinsault
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(13) Merlot
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(6) Fer Servadou
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(14) Malbec
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(7) Lladoner Pelut
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(15) Pinot Noir
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(8) Piquepoul Noir
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Languedoc AOCs
There are 9 AOCs in the Languedoc which are as follows:
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(1) Clairette Du
Languedoc AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1948. The area is characterized by
terraces overlooking the Hérault River about
30 km (about 18.5 miles) from the sea, and covering eight communities. The
AOC produces white wine from 100% Clairette from 100 hectares (about 247 acres)
of vineyards planted on quartz, flint and limestone stones agglomerated by a
clayey-sandy soil. This type of soil from the quartzy period is called the
Villafranchienne terraces. There is also some schist in the north.[5]
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(2) Picpoul De Pinet AOC
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Established as an AOC in 2013. The AOC produces white wine made
from 100% Picpoul grape planted on 1400 hectares (3000 acres) of vineyards planted
on limestone and sandy soil deposits around the lagoon to the west of the
Mediterranean Golfe de Lyon. To the north is the Garrigue where pines
and vines alternate with rocky outcrops. Here the climate is hotter and more
humid than on the coastal strip, with abundant Mediterranean type vegetation.
In the
south is the flatter land which consists of weathered, sandy
stones. Vines are the only plants here in a climate tempered by sea breezes
and mist.[6]
Most of the grapes are harvested by machines at night and Co-ops account for
80% of the production.[7]
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(3) Faugères AOC
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Established as an AOC in 2005. It is located 20 km (about 12.5
miles) northwest of Béziers, on the hills of Hérault. The vineyards are
planted on soil composed mainly of schist. Plantings are devoted to red grapes
such as Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah used to produce red
(85%) and rosé (13%) wines. White
wines (2%) are made from Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Vermentino.[8]
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(4) Saint Chinian AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1982. This appellation is located
between Minervois and Faugères. The vineyards are situated in the
department of Hérault 20 km (about 12.5 miles) west of Béziers. In the north vineyards
are planted on schist and in the south, beyond the village of Saint-Chinian, vineyards
are planted on clayey and chalky soils. The ground is even chalkier towards
the villages of Assignan and Villespassans; whereas the marl clay-chalky
soils dominate in the villages of Cazedarnes, Puisserguier, Creissan and
Quarante. The red wines (89%) and rosé wines (10%) are produced from Carignan,
Cinsault, Grenache, Lledoner Pelut, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Syrah (used to
ameliorate the wines), Mourvèdre and Grenache represent approximately 70% of
the grapes grown on the land.[9] White wines (1%) are
made from Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Clairette,
Macabeuu, Bourboulenc and Viognier. Two of the Languedoc – Roussillon
“Cru” appellations are found in Saint Chinan in the northern tip of the zone:
Berlous to the west and Roquebrun to the east.[10]
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(5) Minervois AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1985. Its sub-appellation Minervois
La Livinière and Muscat de St-Jean de Minervois were created in 1999. It
is named after Minerve, a village 40 km (25 miles) from the Mediterranean
coast and surrounded by the southern French foothills, which is named after
the Greek goddess Minerva. The Clamoux, Argent Double, Ognon and the Cesse are aqueducts on the Canal du Midi
that run
down the Montagne Noire to the Aude which have created a series of terraces made
from stones, clays, schist and limestone. The landscape alternates between
these terraces and limestone and clay marls. The higher altitude areas
consist of limestone plateaus.[11] The AOC predominantly produces
red wine (94%) and rosé (4%) from Carignan (no more than 40% of the blend),
Grenache, Lledoner Pelut, Mourvedre and Syrah. Full or partial carbonic
maceration (up to 2 weeks) is used for Carignan. A small amount of white wine
is produced (2%) from as Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Maccabeu,
Bourboulenc, Rolle, Clairette Blanche and Muscat.[12]
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(6) Corbières AOC
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Established in 1985, it is the largest AOC in the Languedoc producing
about 46% of the region’s AOC wine production. About 95% of
the production is red and 3.5% is rosé wine produced from Carignan (maximum
50%) plus Mourvedre, Syrah, Lledoner Pelut and Cinsault (maximum 20% for red,
70% for rosé). Only 2% of the production is white wine. The region is 57
km (37
miles) wide to the south and west of Narbonne. The terrain and climate here
varies from the Pyrenean foothills in the south and west, to the flatter,
lower-lying areas of the coastal plain near Narbonne. The vineyards are predominantly
planted on limestone with schist, red clays, galets and marl.
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(7) Fitou AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1948. The appellation gets its name from
a small village just a few miles from the Mediterranean coast
The AOC is an enclave of Corbières, it is one of the
oldest in the Languedoc and produces only
red wine from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It is
divided into 2 subzones Fitou Maritime (close to the coast) and Haut Fitou which
is ten kilometers away and located further inland midst the mountains. The
dominant vine variety is Carignan which must constitute 40% of any blend the
rest of which may be Grenache, Lladoner Pelut (the 'hairy' Grenache),
Mourvèdre and Syrah.[13]
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(8) Cabardès AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1999, it was named after the Lords of
Cabaret who defended the Châteaux de Lastours against Simon de Montfort in
1209. The appellation consists of a small grouping of villages directly north
of the medieval walled city of Carcassonne. The vineyards of cover only 500
hectares (about 1235.5 acres) on the northwestern border that runs up against
the foothills of the Montagne Noire. Cabardès AOC is unique in that
is the only AOC in the Languedoc where there is an equal split between
Atlantic (Bordeaux) and Mediterranean (Rhône) grape
varieties. Most of the wine produced is red (90%) followed by rosé (10%) made
from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc (minimum 40%), plus Syrah
and Grenache (40%) as well as Cot, Fer Servadou and Cinsault (maximum 20%).[14]
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(9) Malepère AOC
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Established as an AOC in 2007. It is located in the heart of
Cathar country and is the westernmost of the Languedoc appellations. It
extends around the perimeter of the Malepère massif in the triangle
Carcassonne, Limoux and Castelnaudary. The AOC produces only red (80%) and
rosé (20%) from vineyards planted on 620 hectares (about 1532 acres) of
vineyards on clay-limestone soils and gentle slopes in the foothills of the
Pyrenees in 39 municipalities in the department of Aude.[15] The dominant grape for
red wines is Merlot (minimum 50%) followed by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Côt (Malbec). Secondary varieties include Grenache, Cinsault and Lledoner
Pelut. The dominant grape for rosé wines is Cabernet Franc (minimum 50%) followed
by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut, Cot, Grenache, and Merlot (minimum 20%).[16]
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The Wines of Limoux
The
Limoux wine region is the southernmost of the “Atlantic corridor” appellations located
in the eastern foothills of the Pyrénées in southern France, south of the
fortified city of Carcassonne. The region produces red, white and sparking
wines. Wine historians believe that the world’s first sparkling wine was
produced in Limoux in 1531, by the monks at the abbey in Saint-Hilaire.[17] The vineyards are planted
on Limestone interspersed with some sandstone, quartz and clay.
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Limoux White Grapes
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Mauzac Blanc
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Chenin Blanc
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Chardonnay
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Limoux Red Grapes
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Merlot
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Carignan
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Côt (Malbec)
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Cabernet Sauvignon
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Grenache
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Cabernet Franc
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Syrah
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Pinot Noir (Sparkling wine only)
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Languedoc Limoux AOCs
Limoux wine is produced around the city of Limoux in Languedoc
in 4 Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée
(AOC) designations, 2 for still wines and 2 for sparkling wines:
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(1) Blanquette De
Limoux AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1938. The name “Blanquette” means “small
white” in the local Occitan language. Blanquette de Limoux can contain 3
grape varieties: Mauzac (minimum of 90%), Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Mauzac
based wines have apple flavors with distinctive aromas of fresh cut grass
that develop finer, more flowery,
autolytic aromas.[18]
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(2) Crémant De Limoux AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1990. Crémant de Limoux contains
40-70% Chardonnay, 20-40% Chenin Blanc, 10-20% Mauzac and 0-10% Pinot Noir. The
wine must be aged for 15 months on the lees prior to disgorgement. A Rose
style wine has been permitted since 2006 and is made by blending a maximum of
10% Pinot Noir to the assemblage. Over 40 villages around the city of Limoux
are permitted to make Crémant de Limoux.[19]
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(3) Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale AOC
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This AOC is used for a semi-sweet sparkling wine made without
disgorgement. It is produced in the same area as Blanquette de Limoux and is
made from 100% Mauzac. This method involves traditional hand crafted
winemaking, with minimum use of modern technology such as stainless steel
fermentation tanks. The resulting wines is generally very cloudy due to the
lees still being present in the wine due to the absence of disgorgement and
are typically low in alcohol (often less than 7% by volume), with sweet
apple-like flavors and a slight sparkling fizz.[20]
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(4) Limoux AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1993 for white wines and 2004 for red
wines. The red wines of the Limoux AOC are composed of at least 50% Merlot
with Carignan (maximum 10%), Grenache, Côt
(Malbec), Syrah (minimum 30%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (maximum
of 20% together). White wines are made up of Mauzac (minimum 15% in the vineyard),
Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. The grapes must be hand harvested, barrel
fermented with battonage and aged in barrel for a minimum of 7 months.
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Languedoc Vin Doux Naturel AOCs
All Languedoc Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) wines are all made from Muscat
Blanc
à Petits
Grains. The fermenting must is fortified with a neutral grape spirit
(“mutage”) to finish the wine with a minimum of 11% residual sugar and 15% to
18% alcohol by volume.[21]
The result is a highly prized sweet fortified wine. There are 4 Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC)
designations which are as follows:
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(1) Muscat de Lunel AOC
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(3) Muscat de Frontignan AOC
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(2) Muscat de Mireval AOC
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(4) Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois AOC
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Languedoc IGPs
The Indication
Geographique Protégée (IGP) category replaced the Vin de Pays
(“country wine”) category. While it has strict regulations regarding
viticulture and viniculture it is less strict than the AOC regulations and
incorporates a larger menu of permitted grapes, it allows larger yields, oak
alternatives (chips) may be used and producers can put the vintage as well as
the name of the grape on the label.[22] There are 3 different IGP categories which are as follows:
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Regional
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There are 6 Regional IGPs, the most important is Pays d’Oc
which produces 40% of all French IGP wine.
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Departmental
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There are over 50 Departmental IGPs in France, 3 of which are
in the Languedoc: Aude IGP, Hérault
IGP and Gard IGP.
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Local /
Zonal
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There are 93 Local / Zonal IGPs in France which are generally
small in size. Examples in the Languedoc include: Côtes de
Thongue IGP, Mont Baudile IGP.
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Languedoc Primary IGP White Grapes
*Insert IGP emblem
There are 56 grape varieties
approved for IGP wines, some of which are also approved for AOC wines.
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Bourboulenc
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Altesse Blanc
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Chardonnay
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Chasan
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Chenin Blanc
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Columbard
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Grenache Blanc
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Gewurztraminer Rose
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Grenache Gris
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Gros Manseng
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Maccabeu
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Petit Manseng
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Marsanne
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Pinot Blanc
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Mauzac
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Pinot Gris
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Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains
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Riesling
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Muscat d’Alexandrie
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Sauvignon Blanc
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Roussanne
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Sauvignon Gris
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Rolle (Vermentino)
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Semillon
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Sylvaner
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Terret Blanc
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Viogner
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Languedoc Secondary IGP White Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Clairette Blanc
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Carignanc Blanc
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Picpoul Blanc
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Ugni Blanc
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Languedoc Primary IGP Red Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Cabernet Franc
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Carmenere
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Cabernet Sauvignon
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Gamay Noir
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Cinsault
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Gamay Noir
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Côt (Malbec)
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Marselan
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Grenache Noir
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Mondeuse
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Merlot
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Morrastel
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Mourvedre
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Muscat a Petits Grains Rouge
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Pinot Noir
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Negrette
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Syrah
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Nielluccio (Sangiovese)
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Petit Verdot
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Portan
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Tempranillo
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Languedoc Secondary Grapes for Red IGP
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Carignan
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Chenanson Noir
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Alicante Boushet
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Languedoc Primary Grapes for Rosé IGP
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Cabernet Franc
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Carmenere
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Cabernet Sauvignon
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Gamay Noir
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Cinsault
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Gewurztraminer Rose
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Clairette Rosé
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Marselan
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Côt (Malbec)
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Mondeuse
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Grenache Gris
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Morrastel
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Grenache Noir
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Muscat a Petits Grains Rouge
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Merlot Noir
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Muscat de Hambourg
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Mourvèdre
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Negrette
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Pinot Noir
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Nielluccio (Sangiovese)
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Syrah
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Petit Verdot
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Pinot Gris
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Portan
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Sauvignon Gris
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Tempranillo
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Languedoc Secondary Grapes for Rosé IGP
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AOC Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC Approved Grapes
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Carignan
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Chenanson Noir
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Vin Sans IG
The Vin
Sans IG (“Wine Without IGP”) category is the lowest level on the 3-teir-quality
pyramid in France. In this category there are no viticulture and
viniculture regulations such that the grapes can be sourced
from anywhere in the European Union, there is no restriction on the yields or
how the wine is made. The primarily restrictions fall within the general
guidelines of French FDA standards for food consumption. Southern France is the
largest producer of Vin Sans IGP wine in France.[23]
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Geography of Roussillon
The Roussillon region is south
of the Languedoc and north of Spain. To the east is the Mediterranean Sea and
to the west are the Pyrenees foothills.
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Climate of Roussillon
Roussillon has a
Mediterranean climate due to the influence of the Mediterranean Sea and it is
one of France’s sunniest regions receiving about 325 days of sunshine per
year. Its proximity to the Pyrenees and its foothills creates a rain shadow
effect reducing annual rainfall and creating very dry summers. The region is
also always windy due to the prevailing north wine known as the “Tramontaine” that reduces the
humidity, desiccates the grapes and increases sugar concentration.
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Soils of Roussillon
The name “Roussillon” is
derived from the word “rousse” meaning “russet” or “red” which is taken from
the fact that many of the vineyards in Roussillon are planted on iron-rich,
sandy, red and water-retaining clay. But the region also has a diversity of
soil types including limestone, back schist, granite, genies, gray schist,
galets, sandstone, shale, quartz, yellow clay, marble and sand.[24]
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Viniculture of Roussillon
There are approximately 33,600
hectares (84,000 acres) of vineyards in Roussillon which is about ¾ of the
surface area of the Languedoc but it only produces about 1/3 of the volume of
wine. This is due to the rugged landscape and poor soils that results in
lower yields. The Roussillon is also home to more organic and biodynamic wine
producers than any other French wine region.
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White and Red Grapes of Roussillon
The red white grapes are the same as the Languedoc with 2
additional white grapes:
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Muscat d’Alexandrie
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Tourbat
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Also known as Malvoisie du Roussillon or Malvasia
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Roussillon AOCs
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(1) Côtes Du
Roussillon AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1977, it is the largest appellation
in the region. There is one “Cru” within this region, Côtes Du Roussillon Les Aspres. Production is about
80% red wine, 13% rosé wine and 7% white wine. Red wines must be made with at
least 3 grape varieties. The total of the two main variety grapes should not make
more than 90% of the blend and there must not be more than 60% of Carignan in
it. Grenache is the dominant variety in Red and Rosé. Other grapes include Surah, Mourvedre, and
Lladoner Pelut. Macabeu can only be used in Rosé.
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(2) Côtes Du
Roussillon Village AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1977. Côtes du Roussillon-Villages is
a sub-appellation in the northern half of the appellation in the valley of
the river Agly, from the best slopes around the valley. The appellation is in
the foothills of the Pyrenees and the better wines are normally produced from
vines on the slopes, not in the valley floors. It produces only red wines
from at least 3 varieties in the blend and no single can exceed 70%. The
primary grapes are Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, Lladoner Pelut.[25]
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There are 4 villages that can append their name to Côtes du
Roussillon-Villages that are considered “Cru”:
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1. Côtes du
Roussillon-Villages-Caramany
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At least 25% Syrah must be in the blend and 100% of the Carignan
must undergo carbonic maceration. Mourvèdre is not allowed.
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2. Côtes du
Roussillon-Villages-Latour de France
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100% of the Carignan must undergo carbonic maceration. Mourvèdre
is not allowed.
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3. Côtes du
Roussillon-Villages-Lesquerde
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4. Côtes du
Roussillon-Villages-Tautavel
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Must contain together or separate 20% Grenache and/or Lladoner
Pelut. Carignan cannot exceed 50% of the blend and must undergo carbonic
maceration. The wine must be aged 1 year prior to release.
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(3) Collioure AOC
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Established as an AOC for Red wine in 1971, Rosé wine in 1991
and White wine 2003. It is located around the town of Collioure, a village in
the south-eastern corner of the France, close to the border with Spain. It shares
the same delimited area as Banyuls which produces VDN whereas Collioure produces
dry red and rosé wines from Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsaut
grapes. White wines are made from a blend of Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris.
Grapevines in Collioure are trained as Gobelet (“bush vines”) which, along
with their age, contributes to the very low yields of Collioure. The wines
must not rise above a maximum alcohol level of 15% (min 12% for red, 11.5%
for rosé and whites) and residual sugar level of 5 grams per liter.[26]
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(4) Maury AOC
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Established as an AOC for Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) in 1936, for
dry red wine in 2012. The dry red wines must be a blend of at least 2
permitted grapes: Grenache (60-80%), Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The wine
must be aged 6 months prior to release and the word “Sec” must appear on the
label to distinguish it from VDN.[27] For information on
Maury AOC VDN see “Roussillon Vin Doux Naturel AOCs” below.
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The Vin Doux Naturel Wines
of Roussillon
Vin Doux
Naturel (VDN) are fortified wines made by “mutage” which refers to the process
of arresting fermentation by adding neutral grape spirit. About 400 years prior
to the development of Port, this process was developed in 1285 by Arnau de
Vilanova - a director of the University of Montpellier and doctor at the court
of Majorca. When the neutral grape spirit is added to the fermenting wine it stops
the yeast before fermentation is complete and all sugars have been converted
into alcohol. Consequently the wines retain some naturally occurring sugar. The
final alcohol level varies depending on the regulations of the AOC, although most have a minimum
required content of 15% abv.
Some
VDNs are aged oxidatively, terms such as “Ambré”
refers to the amber color and “Tuilé” is a clay-tile
like color while “Rancio” is brown. In these wines oxidative aromas of oranges
and nuts increase with age.
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Roussillon Vin Doux Naturel AOCs
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(1) Rivesaltes AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1972. The
name “Rivesaltes” comes from two Latin words ripa
(bank) and alta (high). The wines are red or white, and made
from Muscat, Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu and
(rarely) Malvoisie grapes. If a white wine is labeled
“Amber” it has been aged in an oxidized environment up to September of the
second year following the year of harvest. If
it has been aged even longer it will be labeled “Rancio.” If a red
wine has been aged reductively (without exposure to ozigen) it may be labeled
“Grenat.” If it is labeled “Tuilé” it is a red wine that
has been aged in an oxidized environment up to September of the second year
following the year of harvest. If it has been aged even longer it will be
labeled “Rancio.” If they are aged oxidatively more than 5 years it may be
labeled “Hors d’Age”.[28]
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(2) Muscat de Rivesaltes
AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1956. They are similar to Rivesaltes
AOC wines, except for the grape varieties used. The wines are white and made
from Muscat d'Alexandrie and Muscat à Petits Grains grapes, usually in equal
quantities, although the appellation rules allow these varieties to be used
in any proportion. The alcohol content must be at least 15% by volume, the
potential alcohol content at least 21.5% and the sugar content (fermentable
sugars, glucose and fructose) of the finished wine at least 100 grams per
liter. These wine are not aged
oxidatively.
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(3) Maury AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1936 for VDN. Almost all wines are red made from at least
75% Grenache Noir, plus Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Malvoisie du
Roussillon (Tourbat), Syrah, and Muscat. Production areas include the
communes of Maury, Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet, Lesquerde, Tautavel and
Rasiguères. Initial aging is often conducted in large 25 liter (6.6 US
gallon/5.5 imperial gallon) glass jugs known as bonbonnes, les dammes jeannes
or demi-johns. The wines may also be aged in wood for up to 15 years. Red
Maury produced in a reductive manner is labeled “Vendange” or “Recolté”; if
aged oxidatively it is labeled “Tuilé” or if oxidized excessively “Rancio”.
White Maury aged oxidatively it is labeled “Ambré”.[29]
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(4) Banyuls AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1936. The wine is made from old vines
cultivated on terraces on the slopes of the Catalan Pyrenees in the
Roussillon county of France, bordering, to the south, the Empordà wine region
in Catalonia in Spain. The production area is limited to 4 communes of the
Côte Vermeille: Banyuls (from which the AOC takes its name), Cerbère,
Collioure and Port-Vendres. Most wines are red, although some white wines are
produced. Permitted grape varieties are Grenache Noir (min. 50%), Grenache Gris,
Grenache Blanc and Carignan, and also (but rarely used) Macabeu, Muscat and
Malvoisie. There are no ageing requirements. If produced in a reductive
manner is labeled “Remage”; if aged oxidatively it is labeled “Tuilé” or if
oxidized excessively “Rancio”. White Maury aged oxidatively it is labeled
“Ambré” or if oxidized excessively “Rancio”.
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(5) Banyuls Grand Cru
AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1962. An AOC for superior wines that
would otherwise be classified as simply Banyuls. The grapes permitted are Grenache
Noir (min. 75%), Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Carignan, and also (but
rarely used) Macabeu, Muscat and Malvoisie. They must be aged for 30 months in
oak prior to release and may be slightly oxidized. They may be labeled
dry/sec/brut when containing less than 5% residual sugar. [30] Banyuls Grand Cru
cannot be made reductively, if it is aged oxidatively it is labeled “Tuilé”
and if oxidized excessively “Rancio”.[31]
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Roussillon Primary IGP White Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Bourboulenc
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Altesse Blanc
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Chardonnay
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Chasan
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Chenin Blanc
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Columbard
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Grenache Blanc
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Gewurztraminer Rose
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Grenache Gris
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Gros Manseng
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Maccabeu
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Petit Manseng
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Marsanne
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Pinot Blanc
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Mauzac
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Pinot Gris
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Muscat a Petits Grains Blanc
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Riesling
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Muscat d’Alexandrie
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Sauvignon Blanc
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Roussanne
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Sauvignon Gris
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Rolle (Vermentino)
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Semillon
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Sylvaner
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Terret Blanc
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Viogner
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Roussillon Secondary IGP White Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Clairette Blanc
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Carignanc Blanc
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Picpoul Blanc
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Ugni Blanc
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Roussillon Primary IGP Red Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Cabernet Franc
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Carmenere
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Cabernet Sauvignon
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Gamay Noir
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Cinsault
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Gamay Noir
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Côt
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Marselan
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Grenache Noir
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Mondeuse
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Merlot
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Morrastel
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Mourvedre
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Muscat a Petits Grains Rouge
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Pinot Noir
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Negrette
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Syrah
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Nielluccio (Sangiovese)
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Petit Verdot
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Portan
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Tempranillo
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Roussillon Secondary IGP Red Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Carignan
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Chenanson Noir
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Alicante Boushet
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Roussillon IGP Rosé Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
|
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Cabernet Franc
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Carmenere
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Cabernet Sauvignon
|
Gamay Noir
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Clairette Rosé
|
Gewurztraminer Rose
|
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Côt
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Marselan
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Grenache Noir
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Mondeuse
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Grenache Gris
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Morrastel
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Merlot
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Muscat a Petits Grains Rouge
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Pinot Noir
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Muscat de Hamburg
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Syrah
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Negrette
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Tempranillo
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Nielluccio (Sangiovese)
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Petit Verdot
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Petit Gris
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Portan
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Sauvignon Gris
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Tempranillo
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Roussillon Secondary IGP Rosé Grapes
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AOC
Approved Grapes
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Non-AOC
Approved Grapes
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Carignan
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Chenanson Noir
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Roussillon IGPs
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(1) Pays
d'Oc IGP
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Since 2009 the Vin de Pays category has been phased
out of French wine laws. Subsequently the Vin de Pays d’Oc wines
became labeled as Pays d’Oc IGP. The production area for the IGP
corresponds roughly to the entire Languedoc-Roussillon wine region. Five
separate administrative departments fall under the IGP. The territory of the
IGP is from the southern mountain ranges of the Massif Central to the
river-crossed coastal plains and Vineyards are planted across the Garrigue
terrain.
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(2) Pyrenees Orientales
IGP
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The IGP is located south of the
department of Aude, the Pyrenees are close to the Spanish border in the Roussillonais
country. The IGP is dedicated primarily to red and wines made from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault
and Carignan. White wines are made from Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Muscat
and Viognier.[32]
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(3) Côtes Catalanes IGP
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The production area extends from the peaks of the eastern
Pyrenees down to the Mediterranean coast. Vineyards cover the eastern
foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains which is used for the Côtes du Roussillon,
Banyuls and Collioure appellations. The dominate grapes are Grenache, Mourvedre,
Cinsaut and Carignan. Bordeaux varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon are planted in the lower-lying areas where more-fertile soils are
not as conducive to vine quality.
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(4) Catalan IGP
|
Very little information is available on this IGP in any of my textbooks
or elsewhere on the internet. All the FWS text books says is, “IGP Côtes
Catalanes and IGP Catalan hint of ancient ties to Cataluña.”[33]
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(5) Côte Vermeille IGP
|
The Collioure AOC title for still dry wines and it is the same
production area for the Banyuls AOC Vin Doux Naturel wines. The vineyards can
be found in the easternmost foothills of the Pyrenees mountains planted on terraces
on elevated slopes facing the sea. The Côte Vermeille IGP covers the
wines that do not quite meet the stricter requirements for the AOC designated
wines but may be made be made from similar grape varieties such as Grenache,
Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot for red wines and Chardonnay for
white wines. The IGP wines also produces fortified wines similar to
VDN but the required levels of residual sugar and potential alcohol are lower
than those spelled out in the Banyuls AOC law.[34]
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Wines Tasted
The
following wines were tasted in the French Wine Scholar class:
1. 2012 Gerard Bertrand Cremant de Limoux
A clear
white wine, straw in color with fine bubbles. On the nose it is clean with
subtle aromas of yellow apples, pears, lemon, with a minor note of aspirin. On
the palate it is dry and tart with high acidity, light bodied the flavors that are
more mineral driven than fruity and it has a lingering yeasty finish. This wine
sells for $14.
2. 2013 Chateau Font-Mars Picpoul de Pinet “Picpoul”
A clear
white wine, it is bright straw-lemon in color with low viscosity. On the nose
it is clean with subtle aromas of beer hopps, green vegetable skins, and sour
dough bread and subtle oxidized notes. On the palate it is dry with moderate
acidity, medium body and moderate length tart citrus and dried peach finish. This
wine sells for $12.
3. 2009 Clos St. Magdeleine Cassis Blanc
A clear
white wine, it is bright straw-lemon in color with a slight green tint and moderate
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of very ripe
pears, bruised apples, caramel, a touch of marzipan, and hazelnut. On the
palate it is dry with moderate acidity, it has medium+ body with a slight
creamy feel, the nose is confirmed on the palate and it has a medium+ length dried
pear and nutty finish. This wine sells for $28.
4. 2010 Château Trillol Corbieres
A
semi-opaque red wine, dark ruby in color, moderate intensity with a watery rim
and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of
fresh plums, cranberry sauce, violets, lavender, with a hint of smoke. On the
palate it is dry with intense dry and fresh red fruit flavors with a touch of
spice, it has moderate tannins, medium acidity, medium+ alcohol and a moderate
length finish. This wine sells for $14.
5. 2012 Domaine Jean Baptiste Sénat “La Nine” Minervois Languedoc Rouge
A semi-opaque
red wine, dark ruby in color, moderate intensity with moderate+ viscosity and
staining tears. On the nose it is “clean” with moderate intense aromas of dried
red and black fruits, dried meat, and sweaty gym socks. On the palate it has
flavors of pomegranates, red Flintstone vitamins and charcoal. The wine is dry,
it has moderate tannins, medium+ alcohol and a moderate length finish. A
somewhat rustic wine, it sells for $20.
6. 2012 Domaine de Bila Haut Cote du
Roussillon Villages “Occultum Lapidem”
A
semi-opaque red wine, dark ruby in color, moderate intensity with moderate+
viscosity and staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate+ to
pronounced aromas of pomegranates, plums, black cherries, lavender, violets, a
hint of spice. The wine is dry with flavors of backed and fresh red and black
fruits, moderate tannins, medium acidity and medium+ alcohol and a moderate
length finish. This wine sells for $27.
7. 2011 Domaine du Gros’ Noré Bandol Rouge
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby red at the core with a slight watery rim with medium+
viscosity and slight staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate
intense aromas of baked blackberries, a smidgeon of licorice and a hint of
black pepper. The wine is dry, somewhat astringent with medium+ tannins, it has
medium acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $33.
8. 2013 Domaine La Tour Vieille Banyuls
Rimage
An
opaque red wine, dark ruby red at the core with a slight watery rim with
medium+ viscosity and slight staining tears. On the nose it is clean with
moderate intense aromas of boysenberries, blueberries, with a hint of dried
plums/prunes and black walnuts. On the palate the wine is sweet but not
cloying, it has medium- tannins (which are probably masked by the sweetness), it
has moderate acidity and a long finish. This wine sells for $25.
[1] Julien
Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French
Wine Society), 209.
[2] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 210.
[3] Karen
MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman Publishing, 2001), 294.
[4] Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman Publishing, 2001), 297.
[7] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 219.
[10] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 220.
[12] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 220.
[14] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 221.
[17] Jancis Robinson (ed), The Oxford Companion to Wine (Third
Edition), 402-403.
[18] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5th
Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 237-241.
[19] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby Wine Encyclopedia (5th
Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 237-241
[20] Jancis Robinson (ed), The Oxford Companion to Wine
(Third Edition) (Oxford University Press), 402-403.
[21] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 223.
[22] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 224.
[23] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 225.
[24] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 229-230.
[25] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 232.
[26] Jancis Robinson (ed), The Oxford Companion to Wine
(Third Edition) (Oxford University Press), 188.
[27] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 232.
[28] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 234.
[29] Jancis Robinson (ed), The Oxford Companion to Wine
(Third Edition) (Oxford University Press), 85, 431, 466 & 738-739.
[30] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 234.
[31] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 234.
[33] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 2345.
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