Although Malbec is technically a Bordeaux varietal it is rarely,
if ever, used in the region. Today in France its modern roots are found in Cahor where it is often blended with up to 30% Malbec and/or Tannat. But if you ask
anyone today what country comes to mind when they think of this wine without
hesitation they will say, “Argentina!”
On Day 6 of the ICC’s Intensive Sommelier Training program we tasted 7
wines; the 5th wine was the 2010 Pulenta La Flor
Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina.
The Terroir of
Mendoza
One of the most important characteristics of Mendoza’s terroir
is its high altitude in the Andean foothills. In this region winegrowing areas
average between 3,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level. As altitude increases, the average temperature
decreases, in general 1 degree Celsius (1.8 degrees
Farenheit) for every 100 meter (328 feet) increase in elevation.
The result of the varying altitudes for vineyards in Mendoza is that there is a wide fluctuation in diurnal temperatures
with bright sunny days and cool nights which enhances the gradual ripening of the fruit. The Mendoza also
typically experiences mild weather during the harvest season which gives the
grapes extended hang-time which enhances excellent phenolic ripeness. This degree of ripeness goes beyond a
simple and measurable level of sugar in the grapes. It means that, among other
things, the tannins taste fully mature which minimizes aromas and flavors of
“greenness” or “herbaceousness.”
In addition to high altitudes, the vineyards in Mendoza are
rooted in alluvial clay, sand and rock soils which are low in vegetation so they naturally control
vine vigor and yield. The mountainous formation also provides thorough drainage which encourages the vines' roots to dig deep into the rocky soil rather than
seek alternative water sources which would encourage constant growth and which
would result in flabby wines.
In addition to its high-altitude and rocky soils, the Mendoza has
a desert-like climate with an average rainfall of only 8 inches per year.
Consequently the vineyards are dependent on irrigation from mountain spring
water that flows from the melting snow caps high in the Andes. To make this
possible an elaborate canal system, which dates back to the Pre-Columbian Incan
Empire, channels the water to the vineyards below. The result is, although the
Mendoza has an arid climate the extensive irrigation through the surrounding landscape sustains
cultivation with Mediterranean characteristics.
Pulenta Estate
Winery
The Pulenta family has been involved in the Argentine
viticulture for three generations. In 2002 Eduardo and Hugo Pulenta founded the
Pulenta Estate Winery. But the family winemaking tradition
began 100 years earlier in 1902 when Eduardo and Hugo’s grandparents emigrated
from Italy to Argentina. They then planted a vineyard on a 5 acre land with a
small shed for a winery.
The Estate is located
in Alto Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, one of the most prestigious
winemaking areas of the province. What began as only 5 acres has been expanded
to 333 acre vineyard that grows at 980 meters (3,215 feet) above sea level. The
vines, which were brought from France and Italy and planted by Antonio Pulenta,
flourish at the feet of the majestic Andes Range which provides fresh water for
irrigating the Estate.[1]
The Wine
The 2010 Pulenta La Flor
Malbec is 100% Malbec. It is opaque dark purple at the
core to violet at the rim with medium+ viscosity with pink tears staining the
glass when swirled. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of blueberries, black
cherries, violets, dark chocolate and vanilla with definite signs of new oak. On
the palate it has medium tannins, moderate acidity but fairly high (medium+) alcohol
that gives the wine a touch of sweetness on a medium length finish. It wasn’t
one of the most impressive Malbecs I have ever tasted, but the La Flor is their
entry-level tier which retails for only $16.99, so it is a fair quality
wine for the price.
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