As
most wine lovers know, Malbec is a minor player amongst the 6 Bordeaux
varietals (the others being Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit
Verdot and Carménère) as it rarely makes its way
into a blend. Consequently most people associate this grape with the Mendoza
region of Argentina where it is THE major red grape. Americans have been going
gaga over Argentinean Malbecs for quite some time as the wines are easy to
pronounce, they tend to be very fruit
forward, and quality wines are affordable. In fact, prior to tasting the 2009
Chateau Reces Malbec the only ones I had ever tasted were either from
California or Argentina.
The best
Argentinean Malbec I have ever tasted was the 2009
Capataz Malbec, imported by Darioush in in the Napa Valley,
which sold for $48. But I have had many other Argentinean Malbecs for
under $20, but none worth raving about. The best
Californian Malbec was the 2009 Casali Malbec from Crocker & Starr which
sold for $72.
The distinctive note in both of Argentinean and Californian Malbec wines which make them scream “I’M A MALBEC!” is the
upfront and in-your-face blueberry aromas.
Cahors AOC
Cahors
is an Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) which forms part of the
South West France (in French often
Sud-ouest)
wine region near the town of Cahors. This region has 10,000 acres of vineyards,
the dominant grape variety being Malbec which is known locally as “Côt”, “Côt
Noir” or “Auxerrois”. A wine labeled Cahor AOC must contain at least 70% of Malbec
and it is typically supplemented with up to 30% of Merlot and/or Tannat.
Chateau Reces – A Fictitious
Winery?
I
searched the Internet and cannot find any mention of a Chateau Reces other than
on the BevMo web site so this is probably
a non-existent winery. On the back label in very small print Chateau Chambert Vigneron is
mentioned who more actually made the wine. They either are selling it under
a second label or the wine was made by them and then purchased for export by
the fictitious Chateau Reces who then imported it to the USA by Exclusive Imports,
Inc Beverly Hills CA.
But
what does this wine’s back label indicate? Note that it states “Mis en
bouteille au Chateau Chambert sca vigneron-récoltant.” Unless you can read
French you have no idea who actually made the wine. In French this means, “Bottled at the Chateau Chambert who is the winemaker-grower.”
It
is not uncommon for a winemaker (vigneron) to make a wine from excess juice, or
less than perfect grapes, and then sell it under another name or to someone else (such as an importer/exporter) who then bottles it
under a fictitious name. Many of the inexpensive wines that are sold at Trader
Joes fall into this category. The front label has the name of the so-called winery
who is credited with bottling, aging or cellaring (but not producing) the wine. The back label will indicate “Cellared and Bottled
by…” or “Vinted and Bottled by…” which means that the they made less than 10%
of the wine and possibly did not make any of the wine. If it says “Made and Bottled by…” it means that they made,
fermented and finished at least 10% of the wine. If the back label says, “Produced
and Bottled by…” it indicates that they fermented and finished at least 75% of
the wine.
Note: Ignore the tasting notes on the back label, they’re worthless.
The Wine
The
2009 Chateau Reces Malbec is a blend
of 85% Malbec and 15% Merlot. It is clear, dark purple at the core, has very
little rim variation and it stains the glass when swirled.
On the nose it has medium
intense aromas with the Malbecian telltale signature of blueberries up front
followed by dark cherries and dusty dark chocolate. I would never guess that
this wine is anything but Malbec and I was expecting the Merlot to lighten up
the blueberry notes, but it didn’t. On the palate the wine is bone dry with
astringent chewy tannins. This is an indicator that it is Old World and from Cahor
and not New World from Argentina or California which tend to be soft, silky and
sweet like blueberry pie. It has medium acidity, medium complexity with medium
weight and body and a medium length finish. There is nothing about this wine
that says “WOW!” so if you are accustomed to really BIG Malbecs that have a lot
of body and overbearing fruit this wine will seem underwhelming. This wine
sells for $29.95 but I got it for $15 as part of a “Buy 1, get 1 for 5 cents”
sale at BevMo and it is just a descent everyday wine for that price.
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