Most of my experience with Syrah is from Californian wineries.
Consequently when the word “Syrah” is said my sense memory immediately conjures
up a catalog of wines I have experienced over the years in my travels up and
down the coast including Temecula, Santa Barbara, Paso Robles and Sonoma as
well Napa, Lodi and the Sierra Foothills. I am still working on developing a
history of experience with French versions of this grape.
Thus far, most of my experiences with non-Californian Syrahs have been
from Australia or the Rhône particularly in the “Wines of the World” class I
took in college and the WSET courses. In my humble opinion, based on what I
have experienced thus far, one of the easiest grapes to distinguish between Old
and New World is Syrah. I have never come across a Syrah in California that
made me think, “Wow, this tastes like it came from the Rhône!” I have had a few
that were similar to Australian Syrahs, particularly in Paso Robles and Santa
Barbara. But I recently tasted and reviewed a vertical flight of Syrah from
Cornas
and those wines are still solidly in my memory.
As mentioned in the previous two reviews, on the second day of the Intensive
Sommelier Training we tasted 3 Old World and 3 New World wines. The third wine
we sampled was the 2011 Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, from the Northern
Rhône.
Crozes-Hermitage AOC
Crozes-Hermitage AOC is the largest wine
region in the Northern Rhône consisting of 1,238 hectares (3,059 acres) which accounts
for approximately half of the entire region’s 2,400 hectares (5,930.5 acres). However,
this AOC does not have the reputation of Côte-Rôtie or its near-namesake Hermitage.
Crozes-Hermitage, along
with the rest of Northern Rhône, has a continental climate that differs from the
Southern Rhône, which has a more Mediterranean climate. The
winters in the north are wet and experience cold winds known as the le
mistral which can last into the Spring. This plays a key factor in
distinguishing Northern from Southern Rhône Syrahs, which also tend to be
blended with Grenache.
Crozes-Hermitage AOC boundary begins around
10 km (6.2 miles) north of Tain-l’Hermitage, extends around the village of Gervans with its south and
south-western granite slopes and then spreads south around Larnage where the land flattens
and consists of more clay. Approaching Tain and the village of Mercurol the elevation increases
again and the appellation spreads east. In this region, the soil is mostly
rocks, sand and clay. Just south of Tain galets roulés, small surface stones, also
found in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhône,
appear. The southernmost part of the appellation is flat and newly planted.
As with the rest of Northern
Rhône the only red grape allowed is Syrah. But, whereas Cornas
must be 100% Syrah and Côte-Rôtie may blend up to 20% Viognier, the Crozes-Hermitage AOC allows up
to 15% white grapes, Marsanne and Roussanne.
This is a key factor in distinguishing Crozes-Hermitage
from Cornas and Côte-Rôtie. If
tasting a wine blind and you think the wine is a Northern Rhône, if it has hints of floral notes then you can
eliminate Cornas. Then you have to figure out (among other factors) whether it
has been blended with Viognier or with
Marsanne/ Roussanne. White wines from this region are based on Marsanne
and/or Roussanne.
Domaine Alain Graillot
Alain Graillot was born in the
Northern Rhône but he left to pursue a career in business. He then undertook
formal studies in Burgundy while learning from the new generation of winemakers
including Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac. Not having an existing family winery in the Northern
Rhône, he then founded his domaine in Crozes-Hermitage in 1985. The
estate consists of 50 acres of 30-year-old vines in well-draining soils of
sand, gravel, and stones, located on the flat alluvial plain between the Rhône
and Isère rivers. He also owns two small parcels of land in St. Joseph. The
vineyard is farmed organically and the grapes are harvested by hand. He uses whole-cluster
fermentation and the wines aged in 1 to 3 year old Burgundian barrels.
In favorable vintages, he also
produces a barrel selection knows as “La Guiraude” made from 100% Syrah from vines planted on alluvial soils in the
heart of the Crozes plateau. The 94 vintage received a rating of 94 points from
the Wine Spectator and ranked #9 in their Top 100 Wines list.
The Wine
The 2011 Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage is 100% Syrah. The wine is opaque black at the core to violet at the rim. On the nose it has aromas of dusty blackberries, dried leather, smoked meat, dried herbs, black olives, with lavender and a hint of sweaty socks and creosote. On the palate it is bone dry, medium bodied, with medium alcohol, medium+ complexity and a medium length finish. This is an unmistakable Northern Rhone Syrah and it had a lot in common with the Cornas Syrahs in my recent review. It also retails for $48-$60.
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