In
addition to learning about the World of Wine during class in the Intensive
Sommelier Training (Monday through Wednesday, 6 to 10 PM), students are
encouraged to find additional ways of studying during the rest of the week. One
of the best ways is to do tasting at local wine bars or form study groups with
fellow students. It can be a bit of a challenge to form a group because
students live in different cities around the Bay Area and have different work
and family-life schedules. But, in the first week of class I was fortunate to
find a fellow student who lives in the East Bay within reasonable driving
distance from my house who has the time to get together to do tastings.
Currently it is only the two of us, but the Study Group may grow as the weeks
go along.
One of
my fellow future-Sommeliers, Chris, and I got together last week. I suggested
for our first Study Group meeting that we do a line-up of Old and New World
Sauvignon Blanc and focus on California, New Zealand and France. These are
probably the top 3 regions for this grape and their terroir have the most distinctive traits that are fairly easy to
recognize.
Tasting Via Positiva and Via
Negativa
There
are two ways of going about examining a wine and determining what it is and
where it was produced. First, figure out what aromas/flavors let you know what
grape(s) are in the wine. In other words, figure out what it IS (Latin: Via Positiva). Second, then
once you have a general idea of what grape(s) are in the wine, figure out what
it IS NOT. In philosophy and theology we call this the Via Negativa or Via Negationis (Latin: ‘way of negation’).
In this
case, once we have determined what trait(s) tells us that the grape is
Sauvignon Blanc then we have to figure out what characteristics of the wine
tell us that this is from California and not from New Zealand or France or why
it is from Sancerre in France and not California or New Zealand.
Accurate and Comparable Wine Representations
In
order to learn the distinctives of a particular grape or a blend of grapes
(such as Bordeaux blend, a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend) you must begin with quality representatives
of the wines that are comparably priced. If your impression of Cabernet
Sauvignon is based on 2 Buck Chuck then you will have the wrong idea of the
greatness of that grape. You also need to choose wines that are within the same
price range +/- $5. It isn’t accurate to compare a $100 Cabernet from one
country with a $10 Cabernet from another. Of course we can’t all afford to
drink ultra-premium ($100+) wines all the time. So, we need find a wines that are
reasonability priced and yet still accurately reflect the grape and the region
that the wine comes from. I think fair representatives of most wine varietals
and styles can be bought for around $20.
The Wines
For our
study of Sauvignon Blanc we chose the following from California, New Zealand
and Sancerre. All three wines are of the same vintage and are made from 100%
Sauvignon Blanc. We both sniffed, sipped and spat them independently and
then compared notes.
(1) 2012 Sequoia Grove Sauvignon Blanc - Napa Valley, California ($22)
This
wine is clear straw yellow with medium viscosity. On the nose I picked up
aromas of fresh grapefruit, jalapeno, bell pepper, grass, under ripe peach,
lime, apricots, subtle aromas of white flowers and wet stones. On the palate it
is dry with medium to medium+ acidity, medium+ alcohol, medium bodied and has a
medium length finish.
(2) 2012 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc –
Marlborough, New Zealand ($19)
This
wine is clear straw yellow with medium viscosity. On the nose it has intense
aromas of grapefruit, very sharp aromas of freshly cut grass, asparagus, bell
pepper, gooseberries, and just a small hint of cat pee. On the palate it is dry
with crisp medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with medium alcohol and a
medium+ length finish.
(3) 2012
Paul et Jean-Marc Pastou
Sancerre La Côte de Sury Vieilles Vignes ($18)
This
wine is clear straw yellow with medium viscosity. This wine displays low
intensity aromas of pink grapefruit, granny smith apples, white flowers, green
tea and subtle notes of chalk which first seemed like salt. On the palate it is
dry with medium+ acidity, medium alcohol and body and a medium+ length finish.
What the Wines Have in Common
If you
compare the above notes you will find that all three wines have aromas of
grapefruit, two of the have some form of green vegetation (jalapeno, grass,
bell pepper), they are all dry and medium bodied with fairly high acidity.
These are the basic hallmarks of Sauvignon Blanc.
The Wine’s Distinctive Qualities that Indicate
Their Origin and Style
While all three wines have aromas and flavors of grapefruit
the California has also stone fruits (apricots, peaches) which is an
indicator that it came from a warm climate. This is a hallmark of California
which is generally warmer than New Zealand and Sancerre. But, France can have
warmer vintages that make them seem more like California so you cannot make
your judgment on that factor alone. The intensity and razor sharp edge of Kim
Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is typical of New Zealand and it really sets itself apart
as easily distinguishable from California and France. But, I have had some
Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand that had more restraint. So, while I could
still recognize them as coming from New Zealand they weren’t as obvious as the
Kim Crawford. The most distinguishable note in the Sancerre is the chalky mineral
factor. It isn’t as obvious as that found in Chablis and I have found the same
trait in some Sauvignon Blancs from Lake County, California. But, without the
stone fruit notes Sancere is easier to distinguish from California and New
Zealand. Some California Sauvignon Blancs coming from warmer
regions may have more tropical notes such as kiwi or mango. In fact, in addition
to the wines described above, we tasted a 2011 Salvestrin Sauvignon Blanc from
St. Helena in the Napa Valley and it was more tropical and had more stone fruit notes. California Sauvignon
Blancs may also be slightly higher in alcohol and consequently have more
weight.
Another
important factor in identifying Sauvignon Blancs is recognizing the style in
which they were made, particularly in the use of oak barrels. If the wine is
very crisp and sharp it was probably fermented and aged in stainless steel and
did not go through a secondary malolactic fermentation. But, if it has softer
edges it may have spent some time in neutral oak which won’t impart any oak
flavors but the slight oxidization of the wine through the breathing of the barrel
softens the mouth feel. It is not very common, but some Californian Sauvignon
Blancs may even go through malolactic fermentation and be aged in oak that
isn’t completely neutral which gives the wine more of a Chardonnay-like feel.
The only place I have experienced a Sauvignon Blanc made in this style was at a
winery in Livermore California.
The
final major contributing factor in identifying a Sauvignon Blanc is whether or
not it has been blended. Most of them are 100% Sauvignon Blanc but it is common
to also add a small amount of Sémillon
(common in Western Australia) or Sauvignon Gris which rounds out the edges of
the wine without diminishing the acidity. Chimney Rock Winery’s Elevage Blanc is a great example of this style.
Based
on previous experience and this study group, this is my simplified formula for
identifying the three most common Sauvignon Blancs:
Grapefruit
+ stone fruit and/or tropical fruit = California
Grapefruit
+ grass/vegetative + chalk = Sancerre
Intense
Grapefruit + intense razor sharp grass/vegetative notes = New Zealand
While these wines may have many other aromas and distinctives, I
find that these are the key factors which enable me to identify the origin of the Sauvignon Blancs when
tasting blind.
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