The following are my notes
for the Canary Islands. The notes include information about the
history, topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes, the
various Denominación de Origen
(DO) of the region and the wines I
tasted during this study.
The Canary Islands
Geography of the Canary Islands
The Canary Islands were named after the dogs kept by the
islands’ residents, more specifically after the Latin designation for dog, canis. In a study
of Spain you might assume that the Canary Islands (or
Las Canarias) are
located somewhere off the west or
east coast of Spain, but geographically and
geologically it is part of Africa, located about 60-70 miles off the southwest
coast of Morocco.
Climate and Terroir of the
Canary Islands
The Canary
Islands are located roughly 28°N, making them the most
tropical of Europe’s wine regions. Because of the hot and humid tropical
conditions you might think that the region is not ideal for growing grapes. But
due to individual climatic and topographical features it is possible to create
very unique wines. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for
the majority, it ranges from 1640ft to 3280ft (500m–1000m). This ensures that the
wines retain high acidity and the soil, which is largely derived from the
islands’ volcanic activity, imparts mineral and subtle, salty notes to the
aromatic local wines.
History of the Canary Islands
Wine has been made on the Canary Islands for more than 500
years. Because the Canary Islands are isolated, they have never suffered from
phylloxera, the ravenous aphid that almost destroyed Europe’s grapevines in the
late 19th century. So, vines can be planted on their own roots, offering the
relatively rare opportunity to drink wines made from ungrafted vines.
Grapes and Wines of the Canary
Islands
The Canary
Islands are home to some very unique local varietals as well as grapes that
were imported from the mainland but now only exist on the islands. They also
produce some unique wines which, unfortunately, are not widely distributed so they
are near-impossible to find on the global market.
One of the traditional styles of wine was made by farmers
using old wine presses and making Vino de Tea, or “Albillo Tea”, a
very traditional style of wine, peculiar to La Palma, where the wine is raised
in old barrels made of Canary Island pine trees, known locally as Tea. Other
local specialties include Rancio, wines that have been made in an oxidative style by
exposing them to heat, or extraordinary aging periods, Dulce wines that are either naturally sweet or
have been fortified such as Vinos de
Licor.
White Grapes of the Canary Islands
|
|
Airén
|
Known locally as Burra Blanca, elsewhere it is also known
as Aidén, Lairén, Manchega, Valdepeñera or Valdepeñas, Forcallet Forcayat and
Valdepenas. This native drought-resistant grape is planted throughout central
Spain and it represents about 30% of all grapes grown in the country. The
vine's high yields and low maintenance requirements took precedence over the
quality of the wine it made, so Airen has traditionally been used by Spain’s
brandy industry, and to produce oxidative, high-alcohol white wines. It was
also blended with Cencibel (Tempranillo) to produce lighter-bodied red wines.
In the Canary Islands, where goes by the name Burra Blanca (“white
donkey”), and is used mainly as a blending ingredient to produce dry white
wines, alongside Malvasia, Breval and Listan Blanco (aka Palomino).[1]
|
Albillo
|
Also known as Pardina, Abilla, Blanca del Pais, and
Albillo de Toro. It produces lightly aromatic wines with tropical notes and a
rich mouthfeel. It is sometimes added in small quantities to Garnacha to add
aromatic notes and soften tannins. It has been planted in Spain for many
centuries and first reported mention of this varietal dates back to the 16th
century.
|
Forastera
Blanca
|
Also known as Forastera Gomera, Gomera blanca, Forastera,
Doradilla. According to DNA researchers, this is a different grape than the Forastera of Italy.[2]
Its clusters are medium-sized and relatively loose. The fruit is
small, round and yellowish-green in color. It is ideal for making young white
wines. Early harvest and a gentle cold press produce aromas of rockrose and
white flowers.[3] Historically
it was used in the production of sack production, it is mostly a minor
blending grape on the Canary Islands.[4]
|
Palomino
|
It is also known as Listán Blanco, and in South Africa it
is known as Fransdruif. It is
home to Andalucia, southwestern Spain, and is categorized in the three
sub-varieties: Palomino Fino, Palomino Basto, and Palomino de Jerez. The grape widely
grown in Spain and South Africa, and best known for its use in the
manufacture of sherry.
|
Malvasia
|
A family of grape varieties grown historically in the
Mediterranean region, Balearic islands, Canary Islands and the island of
Madeira where it is known as “Malmsey.” Scholars believe it is likely the
wine given highest accolades by the world’s first authority, Pliny the Elder,
who coined the phrase “Vino Veritas” (“In wine there is truth”).
|
Marmajuelo
|
Also known as Bermejuela and Vermejuelo, it is a
yellow-skinned and aromatic variety grown exclusively on the Canary Islands,
principally in the Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Gran Canaria and Tacoronte-Acentejo
regions. The variety thrives in the sandy island soils but is grown only in
very small quantities. It is revered for its high acid and distinctive
aromas. These include palm leaf, passion fruit and fig leaf, and are usually
framed by a pleasant mineral backbone. Despite these positive attributes,
Marmajuelo is mostly found in blends, because it's grown in such small
quantities.
|
Moscatel
|
A member of the
Muscat family of grapes, it is a particularly aromatic grape
variety, with citrus, flowery, ‘grapey’ flavors. It ripens to high sugar
levels and is ideal for making sweet, fortified wines. It is grown in Spain
as well as two regions of Portugal that are famous for sweet, fortified Moscatel:
the Douro and the Peninsula of Setúbal. In Spain the wine is produced in a
similar way as Pedro Ximénez, with the grape variety being at least 85%
Moscatel de Alejandria. The musts can hardly ferment and fermentation is
stopped by fortification really soon anyway. The Moscatel Pasas or Moscatel
de Pasas is made from grapes that were dried in the sun for up to three
weeks. These raisin wines have a sweeter, darker profile.
|
Pedro
Ximenez
|
Also known as Pedro
Jimenez, Perrum, Don Bueno or
simply referred to as “PX”. It is best known for its role in the
sweet sherries of Jerez. It has very low acidity so it does not produce
quality table wines.
|
Sabro
|
A native grape of the Canary Islands, the vine produces small
fruit and the grapes ripen early. The wines have substantial alcoholic
content and acidity with honeyed aromas and is crisp on the palate. It is
ideal for making naturally sweet wines.
|
Tintilla
|
There seems to
be some debate about this grape, it may be a synonym for Grenache or Graciano,
although it is argued that, “it has also been certified through DNA profiling
that the Tintilla de Rota grape of Jerez and Bovale Sardo on Sardegna are
both Graciano.” The problem is (especially in Italy and Spain) the same name
can be used by locals to refer to different grapes, such as Vernaccia or
Tempranillo. The problem and confusion may be due to DNA researchers being
inconsistent in their vineyard sampling. Just because vineyard X is labeled
as Tintilla when in fact it may actually be Graciano or Grenache doesn’t mean
that every vineyard designated as being planted to Tintilla is also Graciano
or Grenache.
|
Torrontés
|
Known locally as Gual, according to DNA evidence there is no
relationship between the Spanish variety of Torrontés, most commonly found in
Galicia and on the Canary Islands, and the South American grape variety by
the same name. It produces wines
aromatic, medium bodied wines that are high in acidity similar to Muscat.[5]
|
Verdelho
|
Known locally as Breval, the grape originated in North Africa and was spread to Rueda in
about the 11th Century, possibly by Mozarabs. It is now best known
in the Rueda region of Spain. The grape is easily prone to oxidization so it
was originally used to make a strongly oxidized, Sherry-like wine. Now, due
to modern wine making techniques such as night-time harvesting, cool
fermentation and the use of an inert gas blanketing have led to the delicate
and youthful aromatic freshness of the wines being preserved. Typically Verdejo dominated wines are
crisp with soft, creamy, nutty overtones, and sometimes accompanied by notes
of honey. Arguably Spain's finest white grape variety.[6]
|
Verijadiego
|
Also known as
Vijariego and Bujariego on the Canary Islands particularly on
the islands of El Hierro (DO) and Tenerife as well as Diego in Lanzarote and
Vigiriega in Granada. It has large-sized bunches of greenish-yellow berries
and has also been used for table grapes. It retains high sugar and acid
levels despite even in hot and humid growing conditions making it ideal for the
production of vino espumoso (sparkling wine).
|
Red Grapes of the Canary Islands
|
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Listán
Negro
|
Also known as Listán
Prieto and Negra Común, DNA
research indicates that it is the same grape known as Criolla
in Argentina, País in Chile and the Mission grape in California
although over time they have all developed some clonal variations. Listán
Negro is the black-skin version of the Palomino grape (Listán Blanco) that is
used in the production of the fortified wine Sherry. On the Canary Islands it
is commonly used as a varietal wine or may blended with with Negramoll (Tinta
Negra Mole), Tintilla and Malvasia Rosada or dried to make a sweet wine.[7]
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Malvasia
Rosada
|
A color mutation of Malvasia Di Lipari on the island of
Islas Canarias, Spain.
|
Prieto
Picudo
|
Also known as Prieto Picudo Oval and Prieto Picudo Tinto. It
is indigenous to the area south of León in north-west Spain and is
found primarily in Castilla y León. DNA analysis has concluded that it
is a sibling of the Portuguese varietal Alfrocherio also known as Albarin
Negro. The vine produces small compact bunches of thin-skinned berries that
are well suited to cool soils and mild climates and is susceptible to powdery
mildew. Prieto Picudo Blanco is
identical to Godello.[8]
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Negramoll
|
|
Tintilla
|
Also known as Tintilla
Del Molise, it is found primarily in south-central Italy. The name may be
derived from “tinto” (black) or “tintore” meaning “dyer”, something that
stains your clothes. It is closely related to Parraleta. It produces dense
and full-bodied wines with fine tannins and aromas of ripe dark fruit such as
blackberries, black cherries and plums.[11]
|
Denominación de Origen (DO) of the Canary Islands
There are 11
DOs on the Canary Islands which are as follows:
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|
Abona DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1996. It is located on the southern coastline
of Tenerife. The climate
is subtropical: hot and dry on the coast with temperatures falling rapidly at
higher altitudes such that vineyards may be in danger of frost. The highest
vineyards are planted 1,700 meters (5,577 feet) halfway up Mount Teide. Soils
consist of volcanic with sandy topsoil and sometimes clay and alluvial
deposits. At higher altitudes the topsoil is primarily volcanic ash often
with coarse volcanic gravel. The production consists of 70% white wine, 20% Rosado
and 10% red wine. The primary white grape is Listán Blanco. The primary red grapes are Bastardo Negro, Listán Negro, Malvasia
Rosada and Tintilla.[12]
|
La Palma DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1994. It has three subzones: (1) Fuencaliente-Las
Manchas, surrounding the town of Fuencaliente in the south. (2) Hoyo de Mazo around Mazo in the
west-central region. (3) Norte de
Palma in the north. The soils are similar throughout La Palma, with
fertile topsoil lying over volcanic rock. The primary white grapes are Albillo, Bujariego, Gual, Listán Blanco
(70% of vineyard), Malvasia and Sabro. The primary red grapes are Listán Negro, Prieto Picudo and Negramoll (20% of
production). The style of
wine ranges from dry jovens to
sweet vino de licor which may be fortified
up to 22% abv. [13]
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El Hierro DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1994, it covers the entire island of El
Hierro, the smallest and westernmost island of the Canary Islands. The first vineyards were planted on
the island of El Hierro in 1526 by John Hill for the purpose of creating
sherry-like wines known as sack. The
vineyards are planted on sandy or stony soil over volcanic bedrock. The
primary white grapes are Listán
Blanco and Bremajuelo plus Uval, Verdello, Torrontes, Pedro Ximenez and
Moscatel. The primary red grapes are Listán Negro and Negramoll. Jovenes wines may be white (50% of production), rosado (20% of production), red (25% of production) or dulce (5% of production) which
includes traditional rancio style
wines stored in chestnut casks. [14]
|
Valle de Güímar
DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1996. The vineyards are planted on the southern slopes of the
Teide, a volcano, at altitudes
between 200 – 1,400 meters (656 – 4,593 feet) making it one of
the highest winegrowing areas in Europe.
The ground consists of rich fertile soil on the lower slopes and exposed
volcanic topsoil on the higher slopes. he climate in southern Tenerife is
mild and temperate, with influence from the trade winds. The primary white grapes are Listán Blanco, Malvasia, Gual and
Vijariego. The primary red grapes are Listán Negro, Negramoll and Tintillo.[15]
|
Valle de la Orotava DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1995. It is located on the north-western
coastline of Tenerife. The
vineyards are planted at altitudes between 200 – 800 meters (656 – 2,625
feet) up the mountainside and they grow in volcanic-sandy soil over clay on
the volcanic bedrock. The primary white grapes are Listán Blanco (60% of production), plus Gual, Malvasia,
Verdello, Torrontes and Vijariego. The primary red grapes are Listán Negro (30% of production), plus
Malvasia Rosada, Tintillo, Vijariego Negro and Negramoll.[16]
|
Gran
Canaria DO
|
Established as
a DO in 2003. It covers the entire island of Gran Canaria (Canary Islands) comprising 21
municipalities. It is a very mountainous island and cultivation of vines is
difficult and laborious. The vines are planted in terraces on steep slopes
with walls built of stone. The
primary white grapes are Malvasía, Gual, Marmajuelo or
Bermejuela, Vijariego, Albillo and Moscatel de Alejandría plus Listán Blanco,
Burrablanca, Torrontés, Pedro Jiménes and Brebal The primary red grapes are Negra
Común or Listán Negro, Negramoll, Tintilla and Malvasía Rosada plus Moscatel Negra.
|
La Gomera DO
|
Established as
a DO in 2003. It covers the entire island of La
Gomera. The primary white
grapes are Malvasía, Gual, Marmajuelo or Bermejuela, Vijariego,
Albillo, Moscatel Alejandría and Forastera blanca plus Listán blanco,
Torrontés, Pedro Ximenes and Baboso Blanco. The primary red grapes are Forastera Negra
or Listán Negro, Negramoll, Tintilla, Malvasía Rosada and Castellana Negra plus Moscatel Negra,
Vijariego Negro, Baboso Negro.
|
Lanzarote DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1993. Lanzarote is the
easternmost island located 62 miles west of Africa. It is also the warmest
and driest of all the islands. There are more than 30 volcanoes on the island
and some of them are still active. In 1730 an eruption began in the center of
the island which lasted 6 years covering the island with black ash and black
lava at the center. Today, other than the ground is cold, it still looks very
much the same as it did 300 years ago. The vineyards are
planted on this black soil of volcanic ash carved into circular hollows known
as hoyos that resemble craters on
the Moon. On the sea side of the hollows, low stone walls are constructed to
guard the huddled vines from the strong hot winds of the Atlantic. Vegetation
is sparse and often the only plant life is vines. The DO is divided into 3
subzones: (1) La Geria, located in
the south around the town of Yaiza. (2) Tinajo/San
Bartolome in the center. (3) Haria-Ye
in the north. Most of
production is dedicated to sweet white wines (50%+) made from Malvasia and Malvasia which may
be naturally sweet or fortified vinos
de licor with up to 22% abv. The primary white grapes are Listán Blanco and Malvasia plus
Diego, Burra Blanca and Malvasia for sweet wines. The primary red grapes are Listán Negro and Negramoll.[17]
|
Tacoronte-Acentejo DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1992. It is the largest DO in the Canary Islands and was
the first region to acquire DO status.
The vineyards are planted at altitudes between 200 - 800 meters (656 – 2,625
feet). Soils consist of volcanic with sandy topsoil and sometimes clay and
alluvial deposits. The climate is subtropical with an annual rainfall of
approximately 300 millimeters (12 inches). The primary white grapes are Gual, Malvasia, Listán Blanco and
Marmajuelo plus Pedro Jimenez (local spelling), Moscatel, Verdello,
Vijariego, Forastera Blanca and Torrontes. The primary red grapes are Listán Negro and Negramoll plus Tintila,
Moscatel Negro, and Malvasia Rosada.[18]
|
Ycoden Daute-Isora DO
|
Established as
a DO in 1994. It is located in the western part of the
island of Tenerife. Towards
the coast the vineyards are planted on sandy soil and further inland there is
more clay and volcanic rock. Vineyards are planted at an altitude between 200
– 1,000 meters (656 – 3,281 feet) up the slope of a volcano. It has a
temperate-to-hot climate and most of the production is focused on white wines (65%), followed by red (20%) and rosados (15%). The primary white grape is Listán Blanco (70% of the vineyards) plus Gual,
Malvasia, Vijariego, Moscatel, Bermejuela, Forastera, Sabro, Pedro Ximenz,
Torrontes and Verdello. The primary red grape is Listán Negro (20% of the vineyards) plus
Negramoll, Tintila, Moscatel Negro, and Malvasia Rosada.[19]
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The Wines
While studying the
Canary Islands I tasted the following wines:
2009 Fronton de Oro Tintilla, Gran
Canaria DO
The wine is made
from 100% Tintilla (aka Graciano). It is a semi-opaque red wine, dark ruby at
the core to garnet at the rim with a touch of brick around the edge with
medium+ viscosity. On the nose the wine is clean with medium+ intense aromas of
baked strawberries, dried raspberries with intense aromas of paprika, black
pepper, cedar, and sandalwood. On the palate the wine is dry with moderate
tannin, it is medium bodied and has moderate acidity with a medium + length
spicy finish but the pepper and spice is not as pronounced as on the nose. This
wine sells for $24.99 at K&L in Redwood City, CA.
2014 Bermejo Listán Negro Maceración
Carbónica, Lanzarote
DO
The wine is made
from 100% Listán Negro grown on volcanic ash. It is a semi-opaque red
wine, dark purple in color at the core to violet at the rim with moderate
concentration and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with medium+
intense aromas of dusty wild blackberries, dried plums, a very intense floral
aroma of dried violets followed by hints of green bell pepper and dried gravel.
On the palate it is very dry with moderate tannins, medium+ acidity, medium
body and a medium+ length pepper and vegetal finish. This wine sells for $22.99 The Spanish
Table in Berkeley, CA
2013 Bodega Juan Matias
Torres, La Palma DO
The wine is made
from 100% Negramoll. It is a semi-clear red wine, bright ruby in color with a
hint of garnet around the edge with moderate viscosity looking very similar to
a Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas
of dried cherries, wild strawberries, black licorice, forest floor, mushrooms, intense
black pepper, with a hint of cinnamon red-hots. On the palate the wine is dry
with medium to medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity, it is light in body and has a
very long finish. If tasted blind this wine could easily be mistaken for a
Nebbiolo. This wine sells for $27.99 The Spanish Table in Berkeley, CA
[2] Jancis Robinson, Julia
Harding and Jose Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine
Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours (Allen Lane, 2012), 360-361.
[5] Jancis Robinson (ed), The Oxford Companion to Wine Third Edition (Oxford University
Press, 2006), 703.
[8] Jancis Robinson, Julia
Harding and Jose Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine
Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours (Allen Lane, 2012), 848.
[10] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd
Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 698.
[11] Jancis Robinson, Julia
Harding and Jose Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine
Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours (Allen Lane, 2012), 1060.
[12] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 207.
[13] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 204.
[14] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 206-207.
[15] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 212.
[16] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 212.
[17] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 214-215.
[18] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 208.
[19] John Radford, The New Spain: A Complete
Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 210.
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