The following are my notes
for the Advanced Study of
the Wines of Spain covering the Meseta. The
notes include information about the history, topography, climate, soils,
important red and white grapes, the various Denominación de Origen (DO) of the region and the wines I tasted during this study.
Geography
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| City of Madrid |
The Meseta is a high central plateau in the center of Spain that extends over 150,000
square miles (about 388,498 square km) and makes up about 40%
of the country’s land mass. It is highest in
the northwestern section of Castile-Leon (Old Castle) where it reaches at
altitude of 1,000 meters (about 3,281 feet) and lowest in the southwestern part
of Castilla-La Mancha (New Castle) at just 500 meters (about 1,640 feet). It is
divided by two mountain ranges, the Sierra de Guadramma in the north and the
Serania de Cuena in the south, and
bordered to the south by the Sierra Morena.[1]
Almost
2/3 of all Spain’s vineyards are planted on these arid, elevated plains but 70%
consists of Airén. The largest Denominación
de Origen is the La Mancha DO but nearly half of the vineyards in the region
aren’t qualified to use the DO on their label. The wines of the VT or VdlT
appellation known as Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take
advantage of the more liberal EU policy towards drip irrigation.
Climate
The Meseta has an extreme continental climate often described as
being “nine
months of winter and three months of inferno.” Rain generally
falls mostly in spring and autumn. The mountains surrounding the plateau have a
higher rainfall and often experience heavy snowfalls in winter.
History of the Wines of Madrid
The Meseta is home to Madrid, the only capital in the world
with its own designation of origin. Although wines may have been produced in
the region during Roman times, the earliest records of winemaking in Madrid go
back to the 13th century and by the 15th century it
became an important economic crossroad. But it wasn’t until
the 16th-17th centuries that the capital of Spain was moved from Toledo to
Madrid, which increased the demand for their wines throughout all of
Europe. By 1665 the demand became so high that the region had to develop
regulations in order to protect their identity and maintain quality standards.
Most of Europe had suffered from the phylloxera
plague in the mid-late 1800s, which had increased the demand for Spanish wines.
But then in 1914 the
plague devastated the vineyards of Madrid wines and in wasn’t
until the 1950s, after WWII, that they were able to fully recover. During that
time most of the vineyards were replanted to Garnacha Tintorera and bulk
wines became the mainstay of the region's wine production. Then in the 1980s Madrid began to regain
some ground in the quality of its wines and its Denominación de Origen was established in 1990.
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| La Mancha Vineyards |
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The Grapes of the Meseta
The most commonly
planted grapes of Spain were listed in the Introduction. But there are some
unique and less common local varietals in the Meseta as well.
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White Grapes
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Airén
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Also known as Aidén, Lairén, Burra Blanca, Burrablanca,
Manchega, Valdepeñera or Valdepeñas, Forcallet Forcayat and Valdepenas. This
native drought-resistant grape is planted throughout central Spain,
particularly La Mancha and Valdepenas wine regions and it represents about
30% of all grapes grown in the country. The vine's high yields and low
maintenance requirements took precedence over the quality of the wine it
made, so Airen has traditionally been used by Spain's brandy industry, and to
produce oxidative, high-alcohol white wines. It was also blended with
Cencibel (Tempranillo) to produce lighter-bodied red wines. In the Canary
Islands, Airen goes by the name Burra Blanca (“white donkey”), and
is used mainly as a blending ingredient to produce dry white wines, alongside
Malvasia, Breval and Listan Blanco (aka Palomino).[2]
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Albillo
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Also known as Pardina, Abilla, Blanca del Pais, and
Albillo de Toro it is planted primarily in the Ribera del Duero region, and
also in Madrid, Ávila and Galicia. The grape produces a wine with a distinct
golden-yellow hue but it has mostly neutral flavors with a light perfume
aroma. This grape is heavy with glycerin and usually exhibits touches of
residual sugar and expressive notes of tropical fruits. It is often blended
with Muscat à Petits Grains in versions of the Spanish wine Moscatel or used as
a blending grape with Grenache to lighten red wines.
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Eva
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Eva is generally consumed as a table grape but there is
also a small amount used in the production of grape juice, sparkling grape
juice, local varietal wines or blended with other local varietals in wine.
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Malvar
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It is predominantly grown in the province of Madrid where
it produces “slightly ‘rustic’, medium-bodied wines that tend to exhibit more
aroma and flavor than Airén, which is also widely planted in Madrid.”[3]
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Moscatel
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A member of the
Muscat family of grapes, it is a particularly aromatic grape
variety, with citrus, flowery, ‘grapey’ flavors. It ripens to high sugar
levels and is ideal for making sweet, fortified wines. It is grown in Spain
as well as two regions of Portugal that are famous for sweet, fortified
Moscatel: the Douro and the Peninsula of Setúbal. In Spain the wine is
produced in a similar way as Pedro Ximénez, with the grape variety being at
least 85% Moscatel de Alejandria. The musts can hardly ferment and fermentation
is stopped by fortification really soon anyway. The Moscatel Pasas
or Moscatel de Pasas is made from grapes that were dried in the sun
for up to three weeks. These raisin wines have a sweeter,
darker profile.
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Parellada
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Also known as Martorella, Montonec, Montonech, Montonega,
Montoneo, Montonero, and Montonet. The grape originates from the Catalan
origin specially grown in Catalonia. Along with Macabeu and Xarel·lo, it is
one of the three traditional varieties used to make Cava in which it adds
aromas of blossom and green apple to the wine.[4]
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Pedro
Ximénez
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Also known as Pedro
Jimenez, Perrum, Don Bueno or
simply referred to as “PX”. It is best known for its role in the
sweet sherries of Jerez. It has very low acidity so it does not produce
quality table wines.
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Torrontés
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According to DNA evidence there is no relationship between
the Spanish variety of Torrontés, most commonly found in Galicia and on the
Canary Islands, and the South American grape variety by the same name. It produces wines aromatic, medium bodied
wines that are high in acidity similar to Muscat.[5]
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Verdejo
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The grape originated in North Africa and was spread to
Rueda in about the 11th Century, possibly by Mozarabs. It is now
best known in the Rueda region of Spain. The grape is easily prone to
oxidization so it was originally used to make a strongly oxidized,
Sherry-like wine. Now, due to modern wine making techniques such as
night-time harvesting, cool fermentation and the use of an inert gas
blanketing have led to the delicate and youthful aromatic freshness of the
wines being preserved. It
is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to add body and richness to Sauvignon's
aromatic lift. Its finest manifestation is Rueda Superior, which must contain a minimum of 85% Verdejo.
Typically Verdejo dominated wines are crisp with soft, creamy, nutty
overtones, and sometimes accompanied by notes of honey. Arguably Spain’s
finest white grape variety.[6]
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Viura
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Also known as Alcañón, Macabeo or Macabeu. It
is widely grown in Rioja, the Cava producing areas south of Barcelona, and
the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. It is mostly used to produce
mildly acidic and young white wines or for blending with other white and red
varieties. It is the primary grape of white Rioja and is sometimes blended in
small amounts with Tempranillo and red Garnacha, both in un-oaked and oaked
versions. It was introduced in Rioja after the phylloxera epidemic, where it
largely replaced Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca, partially because of the
ability of its wines to better withstand oxidation. It is also used in
Reserva and Gran Reserva white Rioja subjected to extended ageing that can
span decades, resulting in a highly distinctive and aromatic wine.[7]
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French
Varieties:
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Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier
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German
Varieties:
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Gewürztraminer
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Red Grapes
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Bobal
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The grape is native to the Utiel-Requena DO in Valencia
where it represents about 90% of all vines grown, and is also present in
significant quantities in Valencia, Cuenca and Albacete. The name derives
from the Latin bovale, in reference to the shape of a bull’s
head. It is the third most planted
variety in Spain with 90,000 ha (8%), coming behind Airén 305,000 ha (27%)
and Tempranillo 190,000 (17%). At its best, Bobal makes wines known for their
dark color, chewy tannins and spicy dark fruit notes with a juicy acidity. It
is also widely used for making rosé. [8]
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Tempranillo
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Also known as
Cencibel, Ull de Llebre,
and Tinta del Pais. The name is the derived from the Spanish word temprano
(“early”). It is native to northern Spain and is widely cultivated in Rioja
and as far south as La Mancha. It is an early ripening variety that tends to
thrive in chalky vineyard soils found in the Ribera del Duero DO. Table wines
tend to be ruby red in color, with aromas and flavors strawberries, plum,
tobacco, vanilla, leather and herbs. In Portugal, it is known as Tinto Roriz and Aragonez and is used to make
fortified Port wines.[9]
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Garnacha
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Also known as Garnatxa
(Spain), Madrid
region as Tinto Aragonés (Madrid), Grenache
(France) and Guarnaccia (Italy). It is a late ripening
variety so it needs hot, dry conditions to achieve full maturity. It is
generally spicy, berry-flavored (raspberry and strawberry) with a subtle,
white pepper spice notes. Structurally, it tends to be soft on the palate due
to low tannin and acidity yet with a relatively high alcohol content. As
Grenache ages the wines tend to take on more leather and tar flavors.
Grenache wines are highly prone to oxidation with even young examples having
the potential to show browning (or “bricking”) coloration that can be noticed
around the rim when evaluating the wine at an angle in the glass.[10]
It is commonly blended with Carignan and Tempranillo or outside of Spain with
Syrah and Mourvèdre. It is also used in the pale colored rosados
of Rioja.
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Mazuelo
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Also known as Cariñena, Carignan
Noir, Carignane, Carignano, Mazuelo, Gragnano, Pinot Evara, and Samso. The
grape is native to Aragon in northern Spain (specifically the town of Cariñena). It is found in wines
along the Mediterranean coast and in France's Languedoc-Roussillon region. It
grows best in warm, dry climates and it produces wine with black fruits,
pepper, licorice, spice and savory accents with deep color, high tannins, and
acidity.
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Mencía
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Also known as Jaen, Fernao Pires Tinta, Giao, Loureiro
Tinto, Mencin, Negra, Negro, Mencia Roble, Tinto Mencia and Tinto Mollar. The
grape is primarily found in the Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras regions.
The grape produces light, pale, relatively fragrant red wines for early
consumption.[11]
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Monastrell
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Also known as Mataró
and Mourvèdre (France), it is grown in the Valencia DO and Jumilla DO.
It tends to produce wines with aromas of red fruits, with wild game and/or
earthy notes that are tannic wines that are high in alcohol. Young wines can
come across as faulted due to the reductive, sulfur notes and “barnyard”
aromas that mellow with age.
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Moravia
Dulce
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Also known as Maruf,
Crujidera and Rucial, it is grown in the Central Spain,
Manchuela DO and in Portugal. The vine tends to be vigorous and late budding
and moderately productive with large to medium bunches and thick skins. It is
susceptible to powdery mildew and coulure. It makes wines that are light in
color, with light red fruit aromas and lightly structured which makes it more
suitable for producing Rosé wines than red wine.[12]
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French
Varieties:
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Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petit
Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah.
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Denominación de Origen (DO) of the Meseta
The Meseta wine region is home to XX Denominación de
Origen (DO) which are as follows:[13]
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Vinos de Madrid DO
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Established as
a DO in 1990. There are 8,196 hectares (20,252 acres) under vine. The primary white
grapes are Malvar, Airén and Albillo plus Viura, Parellada, Torrontés
and Moscatel de grano menudo.
The primary red grapes are Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Garnacha
plus Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Aging requirements: Crianza – minimum 6 months oak in oak;
Reserva – minimum 12 months in oak;
Gran Reserva – minimum 24 months in
oak.
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Almansa DO
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Established as
a DO in 1966. Located at the south-eastern tip of the
vast area of Castilla-La Mancha. There
are 7,600 hectares
(18,780 acres) under vine. The primary white grapes are Verdejo,
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
The primary red grapes are Monastrell, Cencibel
(Tempranillo), Garnacha Tintorera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
Aging requirements: Crianza - 6
months oak, Reserva - 12 months
oak, Gran Reserva - 24 months oak.
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La Mancha DO
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Established as
a DO in 1932. Located around 60 km (37 miles) from
Madrid in the southern part of the Meseta. It is both Spain’s largest DO by
far and one of the oldest DOs. There
are 180,000 hectares
(44,4789 acres) traditionally planted as bush vines. The primary white grapes are Airén
plus Macabeo (Viura), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Verdejo, Moscatel de grano
menudo, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Torrontés, Pedro Ximénez and Parellada. The primary red grape is Cencibel
(Tempranillo) plus Mencía, Malbec, Bobal, Graciano, Cabernet Franc,
Monastrell and Pinot Noir. Aging requirements: Crianza – at least six months in oak; Reserva – at least 12 months in oak and 24 months in bottle; Gran Reserva – at least 18 months in
oak and 42 months in bottle.
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Manchuela DO
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Established as
a DO in 2000. It formerly was part of La Mancha it is located on
the eastern side of Meseta. There
are 10,000 hectares
(24,710 acres), mostly planted in in the traditional “en vaso”
(bush vine). The primary
white grapes are Albillo, Chardonnay, Macabeo
(Viura), Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. The
primary red grape is Bobal plus Cabernet Sauvignon,
Tempranillo, Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, Moravia Dulce and Syrah. Aging
requirements: Crianza - 6 months
oak, 12 months bottle age; Reserva -
12 months oak, 12 months bottle age; Gran
Reserva - 24 months oak, 36 months bottle age.
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Méntrida DO
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Established as
a DO in 1936. It is to the north of Toledo and the
River Tajo. Its nearest neighbors are the DOs of La Mancha to the south-east
and Vinos de Madrid which it borders to the north. There are 13,000
hectares (32,123 acres)
under vine. The primary white grapes are Albillo, Macabeo
(Viura), Sauvignon, Chardonnay.
The primary red grapes are Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Syrah. Aging requirements: Crianza
- 6 months in oak, Reserva - 12
months in oak, Gran Reserva - 24
months in oak and 36 months bottle age.
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Mondéjar DO
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Established as
a DO in 1937. There are 833 hectares (2,058 acres) under vine. The primary
white grapes are Macabeo (Viura), Malvar, and Torrontés. The primary red grapes are Cencibel
(Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon. Aging requirements: Crianza - 6 months oak, 12 months bottle age; Reserva - 12 months oak, 12 months
bottle age; Gran Reserva - 24
months oak, 36 months bottle age.
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Valdepeñas DO
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Established as
a DO in 1964. There are 25,878 hectares (63,945 acres) under vine. The primary
white grapes are Airén plus Macabeo (Viura),
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscatel de grano menudo and Verdejo. The primary red grapes are Cencibel
(Tempranillo) plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot, Syrah and Petit
Verdot. Aging requirements: Crianza
– 24 months in total with at least six months in oak; Reserva - 36 months in total with at least 12 months in oak; Gran Reserva – 60 months in total with
at least 18 months in oak.
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Ribera del Guadiana DO
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Established as
a DO in 1999. There are 27,844
hectares (68,804 acres)
under vine. The primary white grapes are Pardina
and Cayetana Blanca, Viura, Verdejo and Chardonnay plus Alarije, Borba, Eva,
Malvar, Parellada, Sauvignon Blanc, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel. The primary red grapes are Tempranillo plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnacha
Tinta, Garnacha Tintorera, Bobal, Graciano, Mazuelo (Cariñena), Monastrell,
Syrah, Jaén Tinto and Pinot Noir. Aging requirements: Roble - 3-4 months
oak, Crianza - 6 months oak, Reserva - 12 months oak, Gran Reserva -24 months oak.
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While studying the Meseta
I tasted the following wines:
2013 La Maldición
Malvar de la Olla de Marc Isart, Vinos De Madrid DO
This wine is made
from 100% Malvar. It is a clear white wine, golden-orange in color, with medium
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of dried orange peel,
peanut shell, dried hay, and a very distinctive wisp of salty air. On the
palate the wine is dry with low tannin, high acidity, medium bodied and a
moderate length nutty finish. It is a fairly simple wine which seems to have
seen some skin contact during fermentation and is slightly oxidative in style. This
wine sells for $19.99 at The Spanish Table in Berkeley, CA.
2012 Codice “Red Blend”, Vino
de la Tierra de Castilla, La Mancha DO
This is an opaque
red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with minimal variation
and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of
fresh blackberries, boysenberries, black cherries, lavender, violets and a hint
of spice. This wine is bone dry with aggressive high tannins, medium acidity
and a medium length finish. There is no indication on the bottle what the “red
blend” consists of, but according to several online sources it is made from
100% Tempranillo, Tinto Fino or Tinta del Pais. However, to me it looks, smells
and tastes like Garnacha. The wine sells for $9.99 at BevMo.
2008 Finca Sandoval, Manchuela DO
This wine is a
blend of 50% Syrah, 38% Garnacha Tintorera, and 12% Garnacha Tinto. It
is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with
minimal variation and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with medium+
intense aromas of blackberries, black cherries, teriyaki beef jerky, black
olive, violets, with a touch of vanilla and spice plus a hint of dusty earth
and dried herbs. On the palate the wine is dry with jammy fruit, silky medium
tannins, medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. An absolutely delicious
wine, it sells for $21.99 at
K&L in Redwood City, CA
2011 Alvear Palacio Quemado Crianza, Ribera
del Guadiana DO
This wine is made
from 100% Tempranillo and aged for 6 months in American Oak. It is an opaque
red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with medium viscosity.
On the nose the wine is clean with medium+ intense aromas of baked
strawberries, black raspberries, paprika, barbeque potato chips, a touch of
vanilla and just a hint of dried herbs. On the palate the wine is dry with
moderate tannins, medium acidity, medium body with a long strawberry and spice driven
finish. The wine sells for
$14.99 at The Spanish Table.
[4] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd
Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 506.
[5] Jancis Robinson (ed), The Oxford Companion to Wine Third Edition (Oxford University Press,
2006), 703.
[7] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford
Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006),
414.
[9] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd
Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 691.
[10] Wine & Spirits Education Trust, Wine
and Spirits: Understanding Wine Quality (Second Revised Edition), 6-9.
[11] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd
Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 435–436.
[12] Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz, Wine
Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and
Flavours (Allen Lane, 2012), 602-603.
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