The
following are my notes for studying the wines of the Chablis, Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais,
the Grand Auxerrois and the Châtillonnais regions of France. I covered the
history of Bourgogne in my last post so in these notes I’ll only provide information about the topography, climate, soils,
important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I also include
notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class (FWS – 03b Chablis, Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais).
Geography
of Chablis, Châtillonnais and Grand Auxerrois
Chablis is 10 miles (16 km) east of Auxerre in the Yonne
department, located in Burgundy's heartland about halfway between Côte d'Or
and Paris. It is closer to the southern Aube district of Champagne than the
rest of Burgundy. It is France’s third most northerly wine-growing area, after
Champagne and Alsace. Chablis’ vineyards are located on the slopes of the Serein
River Valley. The vineyards of Châtillonnais are southeast of
Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois vineyards are located around the towns of
Auxerre, Tonnerre, Vézelay and Joigny.
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Topography of the Chablis
Whereas the vineyards of the Côte d'Or are planted on a slope, Chablis is predominantly
flat. The region covers 15 Km (9.3 miles) by 20 Km
(12 miles) across 27 communes.
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Climate of the Chablis
Chablis has a continental climate which in influenced by the
Atlantic and winds sweep inland along the plains. This lowers the
temperatures and slows the ripening process resulting in high acid wines with
a lean profile. The maritime influence impacts the weather in the Spring and
in the Fall as frost if common at the beginning and end of the growing
season.
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Soils of Chablis
The Grand Cru and Premier Cru Chablis vineyards of Chablis are on Kimmeridgian
marl which is also found in Sancerre in the Loire. It is a type of chalk
containing many types of seashells, particularly comma-shaped oysters called Exogyra Virgula. The marly soil
develops good water retention and are is easily cultivated.[1] The Chablis
AOC and Petit Chablis vineyards are on Portlandian
marl, a type of limestone that contains many fossils and fragments but is
also cracked by frost. This enables aeration of the slopes as well as aiding
in drainage.
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The Viticulture and Viniculture of the Chablis
The primary concern for Chablis is frost damage during the
springtime, from March to early May, which is counteracted with as smudge
pots which provides heat and aspersion irrigation which creates an igloo over
the vines and protects it from temperatures below 32 °F (0 °C).[2] Chaptalization is common but
in recent years there have riper vintages producing grapes with higher sugar
levels that have diminished the need to do so. Historically Chablis was aged
in neutral wooden feuillette barrels that hold 35 gallons (132 liters)
but maintaining proper hygiene was a challenge. The stainless steel
fermentation tanks were introduced which also added the benefit of being able
to control temperatures. Now there are winemakers who are introducing newer oak
and creating a more “new world” style. But, the traditional style of Chablis
that expresses its terroir remains
the neutral or non-oaked wines that display the typicity of the grape and the region’s soil
with a flinty minerality.
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Key White Grape
Varieties of Chablis, Châtillonnais and Grand Auxerrois
Chablis is 100% white wine, Grand Auxerrois is 67% white / 33%
red wine and Châtillonnais is 95% white / 5% red wine.
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Chardonnay
(Chablis is 100%)
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Sauvignon Blanc
(St. Bris AOC)
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Sacy
(Used in Crémant de Bourgogne)
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Aligoté
(Used in Crémant de Bourgogne)
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Key Red Grape
Varieties of Châtillonnais and Grand Auxerrois
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Pinot Noir
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César
(Blended w/Pinot Noir in Irancy AOC)
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The AOCs of Chablis
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Chablis Grand Cru
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There are 7 climats located on one slope sharing a single
hillside which are as follows:
(1) Bourgros
(2) Les Clos
(3) Grenouilles
(4) Blanchot
(5) Les Presues
(6) Valmur
(7) Vaudésir
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Chablis Premier Cru
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There are 40 Premier Cru with 89 climats (vineyards), 17 of the
larger ones may appear on the label.[3] These are all along both banks
of the Serein River all of which are located on slopes. The top premier crus on the right bank include Montée de
Tonnerre and Fourchaume. The top premier
crus on
the left bank are Vaillons and Montmains.[4]
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Chablis AOC
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Some Chablis AOC are located on the plains and some are on
slopes.
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Petit Chablis AOC
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Established in 1944. Most Petit Chablis vineyards are located
on the higher portions of the winegrowing slopes or the edge of the plateau on
either side of the Serein River. The soils are brown and derived from hard
limestone with patches of sandy silts.
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The AOCs of Grand
Auxerrois
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Irancy AOC
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Established as an AOC in 1999. The principle grape is Pinot
Noir, which is sometimes blended with up to 10% César.
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Saint Bris AOC
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Established as an AOC in 2003. It is located around the
village Saint-Bris-le-Vineux in the Yonne department. The principle grapes are
Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. It has 5 communes: Chitry, Irancy,
Quenne, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Vincelottes
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Bourgogne Cotes d’Auxerre AOC
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In 1993, wines from the communes of Auxerre, Vaux,
Champs-sur-Yonne, Augy, Quenne, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux and Vincelottes were
granted the right to add a local identifier to the regional “Bougogne”
appellation. This is a regional AOC that produces red, rosé and white
Burgundies.
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Bourgogne Coulanges-La-Vinese
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The vineyards of Coulanges-la-Vineuse form part of the outer
fringes of the Paris basin and overlie limestones of the Upper Jurassic
(Portlandian, Kimmeridgian) or in places chalks of the Lower Cretaceous. It
is a regional AOC that predominantly produces red Burgundies but it also
produces rosé and white Burgundies as well.
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Bourgogne Epineuil AOC
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A regional AOC that predominantly produces red Burgundies
located north-east of Chablis in the sub-region of Tonnerrois.
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Bourgogne Tonnerre AOC
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A regional AOC that predominantly produces white Burgundies
located north-east of Chablis in the sub-region of Tonnerrois.
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Bourgogne Vézelay AOC
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A regional AOC that predominantly produces white Burgundies
located south of Chablis in the sub-region of Vézelien.
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The AOCs of Châtillonnais
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The vineyards of Châtillonnais
are located between the east of Chablis and Dijon planted with Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir on limestone soils. The region is produces Regional bottlings but
it is known primarily known for Crémant de Bougogne AOC made from Chardonnay
and Pinot Noir but may also include Aligoté and Sacy.
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While
Chablis,
Châtillonnais and Grand Auxerrois are north of the Côte d'Or (which encompasses Côte d’Nuit and Côte d’Beaune)
we now head south of the Côte d'Or to Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais.
Geography
of Côte Chalonnaise
Côte Chalonnaise is named after the town of Chalon-sur-Saône, it is 25 Km (15.5 miles) and is 7 Km (4.34 miles) wide. It is south of Côte
d’Beaune starting from Santenay,
north of the Mâconnais east of Couchois and west of the Saône
River.
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Climate, Topography and
Soils of Côte Chalonnaise
The Côte Chalonnaise has a continental climate with limestone and marl soils
similar to those in the Côte de Beaune, but the region is not protected
from prevailing winds. Consequently, although it is further south than the
Côte de Beaune harvest may be delayed. The vineyards are divided amongst
various hillsides and communes.
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The Viniculture of the Côte Chalonnaise
About 62% of the
Côte Chalonnaise
production is red wine, most of which is Pinot Noir. They also produce white,
rosé and sparkling wine.
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The Villages of Côte Chalonnaise
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Bouzeron
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Bouzeron has no premier crus and it known for its Aligoté. The upper portion consists of white marls derived from
Oxfordian limestone (the first stage of the Jurassic system). Elsewhere, the
slopes consist in part of brown marly soils derived from Bath limestone. The
vineyards are planted on steep slopes that have east or south-east exposure
on generally thin soil. Bouzeron Village AOC / AOP, is made exclusively with
grapes grown in white marly limestone on the upper slopes from gobelet
trained vines. The lower slopes planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for
wines sold as Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise AOC / AOP.
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Rully
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Not to be confused with Reuilly near Sancerre. It is home to
23 Premier Crus climats.[5] It is also known for its Crémant de Bourgogne production. Pinot Noir is planted brown or
limey soils with a little clay. The best Chardonnay is on clay-limestone
soil.
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Mercurey
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Established in 1923, it is located in the heart of the Côte
Chalonnaise (12 kilometers from Chalon-sur-Saône). The region is protected
from moisture-bearing winds, tucked away in its hillsides or stretched along
the Golden Valley. The vineyards stretch as far as the neighboring village of
Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu. It is home to 30 Premier Crus climats and predominantly
produces red wine from Pinot Noir, it is the district's most important
appellation.[6]
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Givry
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Not to be confused with Gevrey-Chambertin, it is home to 26
Premier Crus and mostly produces red wine.[7] Most of the vines are planted
facing east or south-east or due south at altitudes of 240 - 280 meters
(787-918 feet), or slightly higher in the case of Les Bois Chevaux.
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Montagny
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Established in 1936 as a combination of four villages: Buxy,
Montagny-lès-Buxy, Jully-lès-Buxy and Saint-Vallerin. It is home to 49
Premier Crus that are dedicated to Chardonnay.[8] The vineyards face east and
south-east and are planted on Bajocien limestone and marly limestone at
altitudes of 250-400 meters (820-1312 feet).
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Key White Grape
Varieties of Côte Chalonnaise
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Chardonnay
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Aligoté
(Bouzeron AOC)
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Pinot Noir
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Gamay
(Coteaux
Bourguignons
and
Passe-Tout-Grains)
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Geography
and Topography of Mâconnais
The Mâconnais is
south of Côte Chalonnaise,
east of the Grosne Valley and west of the Saône River. The Mâconnais wine country is covered with rolling landscapes that
alternate with monumental cliffs. The
vineyards consist of a 10k (6.21 miles) wide strip of vines 35km (21.75 miles) long,
between Sennecey-le-Grand and Saint-Vérand. To the southwest of Tournus, the Monts du Mâconnais are a succession of wooded
hilltops and little valleys. The geology is similar to that of the Côte d'Or,
but the gentle relief means that that vines are mixed with other forms of
farming in most of the area. In the south the land rises up to form Mont de
Pouilly and the southern end overlaps slightly with the northern edge of
Beaujolais.
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Soils of the Mâconnais
The Mâconnais consists of limestone hills
covered in the alkaline clay that best suits Chardonnay.
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Climate of Mâconnais
The Mâconnais has
a continental climate that is influenced by the Mediterranean providing warm
summer and mild winters resulting in riper fruit.
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The Mâcon
Appellations
The Mâcon AOC is the basic appellation that can
be used for white, rosé and red wines. The designation Mâcon-Villages is only for white
wines. The designation Mâcon +
village name (such as Mâcon-Prissé
and Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine) is
for white Mâcon and many may also produce red and rosé wines.
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The Communes of Mâconnais
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Pouilly-Fuissé
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Established in 1936. Pouilly-Fuissé has clay-limestone and marly-calcareous soils. The wines are
made from Chardonnay grapes grown in the communes of Chaintre, Fuisse, Solutre-Pouilly and Vergisson. It currently covers around
2000 acres (800 ha) of hillside vineyards, planted on clay-limestone and
marly-calcareous soils over a granitic base.
The 500m (1640 feet) limestone
escarpment known as the Roche de
Solutre
is at the center of the appellation’s vine-growing area and towers over the
vineyards below. The Pouilly-Fuissé
title may be accompanied by the name of the vineyard, the most common are: La
Roche,
Les Vignes Blanches, Aux
Chailloux and Les Crays. There is no Premier Cru
system within the appellation, so quality is indicated through the
reputations of producers and their vineyards.
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Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles
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Located east of Pouilly-Fuissé, commercially they benefit from the “Pouilly” name and produce
a similar style wine. They have no Premier Cru wines and only produce
Chardonnay.
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Saint-Véran
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Established in 1971. It is made up of 8 villages: Davayé,
Prissé and Solutré-Pouilly in the north, and Chânes, Chasselas, Leynes,
Saint-Amour and Saint-Vérand in the south. Saint-Véran has silica clay soil made up of granitic and volcanic
bedrock, present where the Mâconnais rocks have eroded. The vineyards are
planted entirely to Chardonnay.
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Viré-Clessé
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Established in 1999 it is located in the northern part of the
Mâconnais, north of the town of Mâcon, in the direction of the Côte
Chalonnaise. It consists of the communes of Clessé, Laizé, Montbellet and
Viré. There are no Premier Cru vineyards within the AOC.
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Key White Grape
Varieties of Mâconnais
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Chardonnay
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Aligoté
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Key Red Grape
Varieties of Mâconnais
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Pinot Noir
(Only allowed in Mâcon AOC)
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Gamay
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Wines Tasted
The following wines
were tasted in the French Wine Scholar class:
1. Louis Bouillot Cremant de Bourgogne Rose Brut Perle
d’Auror NV
This wine is made
from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. It is a clear pink wine with minute bubbles.
On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of strawberry tart
candies, raspberry, rose water, and chalk. On the palate it is dry a little
residual sugar, it has high acid, light body and a length finish. An very nice
rose sparkling wine that wine sells for only $14.
2. 2012 Domaine Louis Jadot Bouzeron
This wine is made
from 100% Aligote as the Bouzeron ONLY allows Bouzeron. It was fermented in
stainless steel, 30% oak-aged. It is a clear white wine, lemon in color, day
bright with low intensity and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with pronounced
aromas of caramelized apples, very ripe melon, with hints of butter and
popcorn. On the palate it is dry with medium+ acidity, medium+ bodied with a rich
creamy mouth-feel on the mid-palate with a lengthy finish that has a lingering
flavor of peach pits. This wine sells for $39.
3. 2011 Robert-Denogent St. Veran “Les Pommards”
Vieilles Vignes
From the Maconnaise
which is impacted by the Mediterranean. It is a clear white wine, gold in
color, with moderate intensity and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
with medium+ intense aromas of ripe apples, canned pears, peach skins, with
white flowers and very intense wet stone. On the palate it is dry with medium+
acidity, it is full bodied with a round mouth-feel with a nutty long finish. This
wine sells for $39.
4. 2011 Trenel Pouilly-Fuise Les Tillers
It is a clear white
wine, golden in color, star-bright with medium viscosity. On the nose it is
clean with medium+ intense aromas of canned pears, red apples, intense cherry
blossoms, cinnamon, cardamom, baking spices with a hint of wet stone. On the
palate it is dry with medium+ acidity, with a creamy medium body and a long
finish. A premium quality wine that sells for $25.
5. 2012 Henri Perrusset Macon-Village
It is a clear white
wine, lemon in color, day-bright with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
with moderate intense aromas of melon rind, beer hops, herbs, wet cement, and
white flowers. On the palate it is dry and somewhat tart with high acidity, it
is medium bodied and has a medium length finish. This wine sells for $19.
6. 2012 Domaine Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 1er Cru
Vaillons
It is a clear white
wine, lemon in color, day-bright with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
subtle aromas of lemon pith, lime, celery stalk, white flowers and chalk. On
the palate it is dry with high acidity, medium body with a long mineral driven
finish. This wine sells for $29
7. 2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les
Clos – Clos des Hospices
It is a clear white
wine, lemon in color, day-bright with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
moderate intense aromas of lemon skins, lemon pith, crushed seashells, sea
breeze, and slight notes of gun flint and almonds. On the palate it is dry with
high acidity, medium body with a long slightly bitter finish. This wine sells
for $95.
8. 2011 Domaine Chevillon Bougogne Passetoutgrain
This is a clear red
wine, ruby at the core to pink at the rim with moderate intensity and moderate
viscosity, On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of cranberries, tart
raspberries, with a hint of smoke and subtle notes of Flintstone vitamins and a
little sweaty. On the palate it is dry and somewhat tart with medium tannins,
medium+ acidity. This wine sells for $26.
[1] James E. Wilson, Terroir (University of California Press, 1998),
245.
[2] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd
Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 148-149.
[3] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd
Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 148-149.
[4] The 17 include: Mont de Milieu, Montée
de Tonnerre, Fourchaume, Vaillons, Montmains, Côte
de Léchet, Beauroy, Vauligneau, Vaudevey, Vaucoupin, Vosgros,
Les Fourneaux, Côte de Vaubarousse, Berdiot. Chaume de Talvat, Côte
de Jouan, and Les Beauregards.
[5] Agneux, Champs Cloux,
Chapitre, Clos du Chaigne, Clos St Jacques, Cloux, Grésigny, La Bressande, La
Fosse, La Pucelle, La Renarde, Le Meix Cadot, Le Meix Caillet, Les Pierres,
Margotés, Marissou, Molesme, Montpalais, Pillot, Préaux, Rabourcé, Raclot, and
Vauvry.
[6] Clos de Paradis, Clos
des Barraults, Clos des grands Voyens, Clos des Myglands, Clos Marcilly, Clos
Tonnerre, Clos Voyens, Grand Clos Fortoul, Griffères, La Bondue, La Cailloute,
La Chassière, La Levrière, La Mission, Le Clos du Roy, Le Clos l'Evêque, Les
Byots, Les Champs Martin, Les Combins, Les Crêts, Les Croichots, Les Fourneaux,
Les Montaigus, Les Naugues, Les Puillets, Les Ruelles, Les Saumonts, Les
Vasées, Les Velley, Sazenay.
[7] A Vigne Rouge, Champ
Nalot, Clos Charlé, Clos de la Baraude, Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Clos du
Cras long, Clos du Vernoy, Clos Jus, Clos Marceaux, Clos Marole, Clos Salomon,
Clos-Saint-Paul, Clos-Saint-Pierre, Crauzot, Crémillons, En Choué, En Veau, La
Brûlée, La Grande Berge, La Matrosse, La Petite Berge, La Plante, Le Champ
Lalot, Le Médenchot, Le Paradis, Le Petit Prétan, Le Pied du Clou, Le Vernoy,
Le Vigron, Les Bois Chevaux, Les Bois Gautiers, Les Combes, Les Galaffres, Les
Grandes Vignes, Les Grands Prétans, Petit Marole, Pied de Chaume, Servoisine.
[8] Champ
Toizeau, Chazelle, Cornevent, Creux de Beaux Champs, L'Epaule, La Condemine du
Vieux Château, La Grande Pièce, La Moullière, Le Clos Chaudron, Le Cloux, Le
Clouzot, Le Vieux Château, Les Bassets, Les Beaux Champs, Les Bonneveaux, Les
Bordes, Les Bouchots, Les Burnins, Les Chaniots, Les Chaumelottes, Les Coères,
Les Combes, Les Coudrettes, Les Craboulettes, Les Garchères, Les Gouresses, Les
Jardins, Les Las, Les Macles, Les Maroques, Les Paquiers, Les Perrières, Les
Pidances, Les Platières, Les Resses, Les Treuffères, Les Vignes Derrière, Les
Vignes des Prés, Les Vignes longues, Mont Laurent, Montcuchot, Montorge, Saint-Ytages,
Sainte-Morille, Sous les Feilles, Vigne du soleil, Vignes Couland, Vignes
Saint-Pierre, Vignes sur le Cloux.
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