The following are my
notes for studying the wines of the Beaujolais, Jura and Savoie regions of France. In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography,
climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I
also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class
(FWS – 04 Beaujolais,
Jura and Savoie).
The Viticultural and Political Boundaries of Beaujolais
If understanding France wasn’t
complicated enough, trying to distinguish the differences between the
viticultural boundaries and political boundaries adds another layer of
complexity that makes studying this country a bit more challenging. After the
French Revolution “Provinces” were eliminated and the country was divided into
“regions” and “départements”. The wine region boundaries do not correspond to the administrative
districts within France. Consequently, the vineyards of Beaujolais
are in two separate départements and each of these are in different
administrative regions.
There
are two Inter-Preofessional organizations that promote Bourgogne and Beaujolais
– the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vines
de Bourgogne and Inter-Beaujolais.
Although they are often discussed as being under the same geographical
umbrella, the wine regions of Bourgogne and Beaujolais are independent of each
other for viticultural research, vinicultural development and marketing. Consequently
there are 6 communes in Beaujolais that can provide fruit for Bourgogne Blanc,
42 communes in Beaujolais that can provide Chardonnay for Bourgogne Aligoté, and there are 19 communes in
Beaujolais that can provide fruit for Bourgogne Gamay.[1]
The Viticultural History of Beaujolais
Beaujolais was first cultivated by the
Romans who planted vines from the Rhône through the Saône River Valley. After the fall of the
Roman Empire (410 AD) the Catholic Church became the dominant shepherds of wine
and from the 7th century through the Middle Ages the Benedictine
Monks were the primary vignerons.
In 1395, Philippe the Bold, Duke of
Burgogne, outlawed Gamay in the Côte d'Or so it found its home on soils more suited for the
grape in Beaujolais. Further south, Lyon became the primary market for
Beaujolais and heavy taxes on non-local wines guaranteed loyal customers.
The Modern Era
In the 19th century the
railway system expanded which enabled Beaujolais to expand its market into
Paris. Between 1936 and 1938 eight of the ten Beaujolais Cru established
followed by St. Amor in 1946 and Régnié in 1988. In the 1950s Beaujolais
Nouveau became popular in Paris and by
the 1990’s it grew to consist of 1/3 of Beaujolai production.[2]
Geography of Beaujolais
Beaujolais
is south of the Mâconnais and
north of Lyon, the Monts du Beaujolais to the west, the Saône River to the east
which is sourced in the Vosges mountain range and runs south for 300 miles
through Lyon and joins the Rhône River. Beaujolais covers
parts of the north of the Rhône département
(Rhône-Alpes) and parts of the south of the Saône-et-Loire département (Bourgogne).
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Climate of Beaujolais
Beaujolais has semi-continental climate
with some temperate influences from the Mediterranean Sea. In general it is
warmer than Bourgogne but it snows in the foothills in the western regions
about the time that the Beaujolais Nouveau is released in late November. A
common viticultural hazard is springtime frost.
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Soils of Beaujolais
The soils of Beaujolais
divide the region into a northern and southern half, with the town of
Villefranche serving as a near dividing point. Northern Beaujolais, also known as the Haut Beaujolais, is
where most of the Cru Beaujolais communes are located. It consists of rolling
hills of weathered feldspars (a group of minerals distinguished by the presence of
alumina and silica (SiO2) in their chemistry), micas (sheet silicate,
phyllosilicate, minerals with a tendency towards pseudohexagonal crystals) quartz, sandy soils known locally as “aréne”
(from the Latin word arena, meaning
sand) and a weathered earthy mass known as gorrhe.[3]
The angle of the hillside vineyards
in the north exposes the grapes to more sunshine which leads to harvest at an
earlier time than the vineyards in the south. Southern Beaujolais, also known as the Bas Beaujolais, has
flatter terrain with richer, sandstone and clay based soils with some
limestone patches. The vineyards stop before they reach the Saône River as the land
is too fertile for producing quality grapes.
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White Grapes
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Chardonnay
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Aligoté
(Until 2024, can be
blended into certain white and red wines)
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Melon de Bourgogne
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Pinot Gris
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Red Grapes
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Gamay
Noir à Jus Blanc
(98% of the plantings
in Beaujolais is Gamay)
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Pinot Noir
(Until 2015 up to 15%
can be blended into Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages and Côte
de Brouilly)
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Beaujolais
Cru
There are
10 Beaujolais Cru which
were established in the 1930s.[4]
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Brouilly
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As far back as 1769, the communes of
Brouilly were involved in winemaking and were among the 16 Beaujolais
parishes authorized to sell wines to Paris. The Cru is named after a Roman
lieutenant, Brulius, who purportedly planted vines here 2000 years ago. The
cru covers the lower slopes of Mont Brouilly and the appellation applies only
to red wines, namely Gamay. However, Chardonnay, Aligote and Melon de
Bourgogne are allowed to make up 15% of the vineyard area, and are permitted
as a minor component of the blend in Brouilly wines. Brouilly covers 20% of
the Beaujolais Cru area. Its wines are made in six communes: Cercié,
Saint-Lager, Charentay, Odenas, Saint-Etienne-la-Varenne and Quincié. On the
western side there are thin, sandy soils with a granite bedrock and in the
south the soil consists of clay. In the north and east the soil is more
transitional with some alluvial deposits of limestone. The pink granite
around Saint-Etienne-la-Varenne, Odenas and Quincié contains less acidity,
while the limestone-marl around Charentay contains alluvial deposits with
traces of crystal and clay from rock erosion. More than 8 million bottles of
Brouilly are produced each year.
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Côte de Brouilly
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Côte
de Brouilly is one of the smallest and most southern areas of any of the
Beaujolais crus. The soils consist of diorite, a mottled blue stone left by
ancient volcanic activity, which tend to be thin and stony, with some clay.
Most of the vineyards are on the higher south and east-facing slopes of Mont
Brouilly where they are protected from winds and receive early morning
sunlight which is enhanced by the steep slopes of the vineyards. Consequently
these are some of the first vineyards to be harvested in Beaujolais.
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Régnié
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Régnié Cru was established on
December 8, 1988, making it the youngest of the Crus. The majority of the
village’s 950 inhabitants are part of the Régnié winemaking process at one
stage or another. Régnié is spread over one square mile on pink granite,
mineral-rich terrain. Grapes here are grown on hillsides found approximately
1,150 feet above sea level.
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Chiroubles
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Chiroubles is also the Cru grown at
the highest altitude, cultivated between 820 and 1,475 feet above sea level. Consequently
Temperatures in Chiroubles are lower than in other parts of Beaujolais, so is
about 5 - 10 days later than other Crus. The region covers a little more than
one square mile which accommodates 60 growers, who produce an average of 2.3
million bottles a year.
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Fleurie
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The Cru was established in 1927, La
Cave des Producteurs des Grands Vins de Fleurie is the oldest wine
co-operative in the Beaujolais region and it produces about 1/3 of the
appellation’s total production. Fleurie
is located in the north of Beaujolais and covers an unbroken area of 3 square
miles. The soil consists mostly of pinkish granite that is unique to this
part of Beaujolais. The area can be divided into two zones. In the higher,
steeper areas of the appellation, the soil is thin, acidic and dry. This
produces very light and aromatic wines. Below the main village, the terrain
is deeper with a little clay. These wines are fuller-bodied and age well.
Many winemakers here use a technique called gridding, which involves
extracting more color and tannin from the skins of the grapes. In all, 180
growers produce more than 5.5 million bottles a year.
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Saint-Amour
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Established in 1946, it is the most
northerly Cru as well as one of the smallest. The soil consists of a mixture
granite, clay, schist and limestone. It comprises 115 growers that produce an
average of 1.6 million bottles a year.
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Chénas
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On the appellation’s rugged northeast
slopes, Gamay grapes are grown on just one square mile, producing the rarest
of the Beaujolais Crus. This fine, sophisticated wine needs a few years of
bottle age to achieve perfection. In just under one square mile, about100
growers produce an average 1.5 million bottles of wine a year.
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Juliénas
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Juliénas and Jullié, two out of the
four communes that produce this appellation, take their name from Julius
Caesar, as vines were grown on the communes’ hillsides during the Gallo-Roman
period. In the far northwest of the winemaking region, this appellation area
encompasses four villages: Juliénas, Jullié, Emeringes and Pruzilly. It
includes granite-based soils in the west, ancient alluvial deposits in the
east and some sandy soils with clay content as high as 30 percent. In two
square miles, 120 producers make about 4 million bottles a year.
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Morgon
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Morgon is the second largest Cru
after Brouilly. It is named after the local hamlet of Morgon, which is in the
center of the area and borders the village of Villié-Morgon. The soil in
Morgon is rich in iron oxide with traces of manganese and volcanic rock. The
Cru has six different vineyards that divide the area into three bands that
face south, southeast and northwest, each producing very different styles of
wine. In all, 250 producers found across 4.5 square miles make 7.3 million
bottles a year.
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Moulin-à-Vent
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Morgon is the second largest Cru
after Brouilly. It is named after the local hamlet of Morgon, which is in the
center of the area and borders the village of Villié-Morgon. The soil in
Morgon is rich in iron oxide with traces of manganese and volcanic rock. The
Cru has six different vineyards that divide the area into three bands that
face south, southeast and northwest, each producing very different styles of
wine. In all, 250 producers found across 4.5 square miles make 7.3 million
bottles a year.
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Beaujolais
Viniculture
Carbonic maceration
and semi-carbonic
maceration are common production methods used in the production of red
wines in Beaujolais.
Carbonic maceration
consists of sealing whole clusters or whole berries of red grapes in a tank. Then
added carbon dioxide is added which displaces the oxygen. Subsequently the
intact whole berries undergo a short intracellular fermentation which metabolizes
the glucose and malic acid within the grapes to produce alcohol and carbon
dioxide without the aid of yeast. During carbonic maceration,
tannins and anthocyanins move from the skins to the flesh of each grape
extracting deep color. The grape can develop an alcohol level of
approximately 2% before it dies and the cellular activity ceases. The grapes
may then rupture due to an internal build-up of carbon dioxide or the
winemaker may simply press the juice off the skins. The wine is then fermented
dry by the yeast. A more common method is Semi-carbonic maceration in which carbon
dioxide is not added, rather whole clusters at the bottom of the tank crush
under the weight of those above and begin fermenting normally. As the carbon
dioxide is released through fermentation it covers the whole berries above
and they begin to ferment within the grape. The result is a wine that is commonly
described as having aromas of bubblegum, banana, and pear-drop which may be
the result of this unique fermentation process, the particular strain of
native yeast, the wine’s youthfulness or a combination. Wines that have gone
through some degree of carbonic maceration are typically fruity and highly
floral with soft tannins.
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Beaujolais
Nouveau
Beaujolais Nouveau not an AOC but a style of wine made from 100% Gamay
and it is the most popular vin de primeur. By law all grapes are
harvested by hand which are then fermented using the semi-carbonic
technique for just a few weeks. The result is a wine that is fresh, fruity,
and very low in tannins that provides a very quick cash flow for producers. The
wine is then released for sale on the third Thursday of November but it has
no ability to age so most are purchased before the end of the holidays.
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Viticultural History of Jura
Viticulture
and Viniculture in Jura dates back to the 1st century AD but it is
not until the 18th century that we see any efforts to improve and
maintain the quality of the wines. In 1774 there was decree which listed 14
grape varieties to be used in the region and by the end of the 19th
century there were 42 different varieties planted on approximately 20,000 ha
(50,000 acres).
One
of the most important people in the viticultural history of Jura is Louis
Pasteur (1822-1895) who was born in Arbois and is considered to be the father
of the science of oenology. Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte III (20
April 1808 – 9 January 1873), the nephew of Napoléon I, commissioned
Pasteur to investigate the changes already observed during the maturation
of wine. Among his discoveries was the vital role of yeast during fermentation
so without Pasteur the study of enology would not exist. Louis Pasteur’s
vineyard, located just outside of Arbois, today is owned by the firm of Henri
Maire.[5]
Then
in 1879 the vineyards were devastated by the Phyloxera plague and after
replanting 5 remained and the focus changed from red to white wine. Today there
are only about 2,000 ha (5,000 acres) under vine with about 450 growers, 220 of
which market their own wine.[6]
Geography of Jura
Jura is located between of Bourgogne and Switzerland. The
principal cities in the wine region are Lons-le-Saunier and Arbois.
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Climate of Jura
Jura has a continental
climate with aggressively cold winters. Consequently achieving ripeness can
be a challenge and harvest often takes place well into late October. The
majority of the regions vineyards are found at altitudes between 250 – 400 meters
(820 – 1,310 feet) between the plains of the Bresse region and the Jura
Mountains.
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Soils of Jura
The vineyard soils of Jura tend
to composed of mostly clay in the lower flat lands with more limestone based
soils in the higher elevation. Deposits of blue, red and black marl as well
as slate are scattered throughout the region. Many vineyard slopes are quite
steep which creates problems with soil erosion. [7]
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Viticulture and Viniculture
To help lessen the
threat of autumn frost, grapevines are often trained to the Guyot system. The
vineyards face west, southwest and to a certain extent south. Harvest tends
to extend late into the season as picking continues into November. [8]
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White Grapes
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Chardonnay
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Chardonnay makes up 66%
of white grapes in Jura and 43% of all grape plantings. It has been grown in
Jura since the 10th century and was known as Melon d’Arbois,
Moular and Gamay Blanc. It grows best on limestone soils.
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Savagnin
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Savagnin,
also known as Savagnin Blanc (not to be
confused with Sauvignon Blanc) is the primary grape in Vin Juane (“Yellow
Wine”) and it represents 34% of all white grapes planted and 22% of the total
vine area. It grows best on gray shale soils. Some sources state that this is
a non-spicy clone of the Traminer grape and is related to Frankisch
in Austria, Heida in Switzerland, Formentin in Hungary and Grumin from
Bohemia.
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Red Grapes
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Poulsard
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Also known as Plousard,
it is a dark skinned grape but yet it used to produce Vin Gris and/or White
Wine. Red wines made from the grape tend to be very light in color and much
of it is used to produce Rosé wines and Vin de Paille. Poulsard
makes up 40% of all red grapes and 14% of total acreage under vine in Jura. It grows best on shale or clay soils.
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Pinot Noir
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Pinot Noir makes up 37% of all red
grapes and 13% of total acreage under vine in Jura. It is used to make single
variety wines or is used in blends. [9]
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Trousseau
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Trousseau is native to
the Franche-Comte region has been planted in Jura since the 18th
century. It makes up 23% of all red grapes and 8% of total acreage
under vine in Jura. It grows best on shale
or gravel soils.
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Jura AOCs
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Arbois AOC
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It was the first controlled
appellation to be attributed in France, in 1936. Red and rosé wines can be
produced from Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. White wines are made from
Chardonnay and Savagnin.
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Château-Chalon
AOC
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Château-Chalon sounds like the name of a producer,
but it isn’t. It is a commune that produces only white wines from the
Savagnin grape made in the vin jaune (“yellow wine”) style. However,
the Château-Chalon wines are not explicitly labeled as vin jaune. The
wine is known for its longevity, and ability to age for several decades.
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L'Étoile
AOC
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White wines are made from Chardonnay,
Savagnin and Poulsard. The wine is produced on 4 communes: L'Étoile,
Plainoiseau, Quintigny, Saint-Didier.
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Côtes
du Jura AOC
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Red and rosé wines are produced from
Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. White wines are made from Chardonnay and
Savagnin.
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Macvin du Jura AOC
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The AOC produces producing late
harvest vin du Jura fortified with marc du Jura. On 14 November 1991
it received its AOC designation. It is the latest Jurassian AOC becoming the
third vin de liqueur to receive such a designation. Macvin has been in
production since the fourteenth century. It is made from five permitted grape
varieties, and can be red or rosé when produced from the Poulsard, Trousseau
and Pinot noir, or white when produced from Chardonnay or Savagnin. The
grapes are harvested late in season when their sugar content is at its
highest. The grape must is aged in oak barrels for twelve months without
prior fermentation in tanks. Marc du Jura, pomace-based eau-de-vie, is then
added at a ratio of one liter for every two of must. Fermentation stops,
leaving behind residual sugar and a sweet dessert wine.
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Crémant
du Jura AOC
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White and rosé wines can be produced
from Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot noir red grapes and Chardonnay, Pinot Gris
and Savagnin white grapes.
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Wine Styles of Jura
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Aged White Wines
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In Jura white wines are
aged in two styles: “Without Ullage”:
The ullage (from the Latin oculus, “eye”, referring to the bung
hole in a barrel) is
the unfilled space in a barrel or tank. In
this style wine barrels are kept topped up or it is aged in a stainless steel
tank without any air space to eliminate oxygen exposure.
“With Ullage”: This is an oxidative style of wine making in whch
it is allowed to have contact with air and subsequently develops a surface of
yeast that metabolizes certain components in the wine, namely ethyl acetate
as well as tartaric, acetic, pyruvic, malic and lactic acids. The by-product
is aldehyde. The result is a wine with nutty and spicy aromas. The wines are
usually made from Chardonnay or Savagnin and if blended it will state
“Tradition” on the label.
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Vin Jaune
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Vine Juane is made from
100% Savagnin. It originated in Château-Chalon but it is also produced
in Arbois, L'Étoile and Côtes du Jura AOCs. After fermentation the
wine is aged minimally 6 years and 3 months in oak casks. A film of surface
yeast develops over time and metabolizes ethyl acetate and acids into
aldehydes. The result of this controlled oxidative style is a wine that is
similar to sherry. During the wine making process a significant volume is
lost and consequently a what would normally be a 750 ml bottle of wine is
reduced to 620 ml so the wines are sold in smaller bottles known as
“Clavelins.”
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Vin de Paille
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Vin de
Paille
is the French for “straw wine”. It is made from a blend of Chardonnay,
Savagnin and Poulsard in the Côtes du Jura, as well as in Arbois and
L'Etoile. Traditionally the grapes are placed indoors and dried on straw mats
for up to 3 months. The goal is to concentrate sugars and flavor compounds.
It is aged for 3 years in barrel where it develops aromas of candied orange,
prune, honey and caramel. and the final wine has about 12-19% alcohol and
10-20% residual sugar. [10]
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Viticultural History of Savoy
Together
with the Haute-Savoie, Savoie is one of the two departments of the historic
region of Savoy that was annexed by France on June 14, 1860, following the
signature of the Treaty of Turin on March 24, 1860.[11] It is sometimes referred to as the
country of the Allobroges, a Gallic tribe of ancient Gaul, located between the
Rhône River and the Lake of Geneva in what later became Savoy, Dauphiné, and
Vivarais. The cities were in the areas of modern-day Annecy, Chambéry and
Grenoble, the modern departement
of Isère, and modern Switzerland. Their capital was today’s Vienne.
Viticulture
and Viniculture in Jura dates back to the 1st century AD when the
region was settled by Romans who discovered a wild vine that they named Vitis
Allbrogia, which ampelographers now believe was Mondeuse. After the fall of the
Roman Empire (410 AD) the church became the dominate wine growers through the
Middle Ages.
Prior
to the establishment of modern France and Italy, Savoy was governed by the
Duchy of Savoie which stretched from Lyon to Milan in Italy and from Neuchatel
in Switzerland to the Mediterranean coast. In 1792 the region was annexed by
France but then was claimed by the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sadrinia in 1815 and
then 1860 it again came under French rule. Today
very little wine is exported from Savoy as most of it is consumed by locals and
tourists who visit this popular snow skiing region.[12]
Geography of Savoie / Savoy
Savoie is an alpine wine region located in
the far east of France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman
(Lake Geneva) and the border of Switzerland.
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Topography of Savoie / Savoy
Vineyards are planted throughout
this mountainous region along the upper Rhône River and the shores of Lac Léman
(Lake Geneva), from
Fréterive in the South, to Evian in the North, passing through Apremont and
Jongieux. The terrain is rugged so the vines are planted on steep hillsides
and flat lands in between the peaks.
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Climate of Savoie / Savoy
Savoie
has a continental climate that is
moderated by Lake Bourget and the larger Lac Léman which Western Europe’s
largest body of freshwater.
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AOCs / AOPs
Accurate and up-to-date
information on Savoie can be challenging to find. According to my count form
various sources, Savoie has 6 AOCs / AOPs which are as follows:
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Vin
de Savoie AOC
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Vin de Savoie AOC/AOP
is the region’s overarching appellation and it produces white, red, rosé, traditional method
sparkling wine. The designation may be
followed by one of the following specific geographic denominations:
White Wines - Abymes, Apremon, Chignin-Bergeron
(produces 100% Roussanne wines exclusively), Chautagne, Cruet, Jongieux,
Montmélian, Saint-jeoire-prieuré, Marin, and Ayse. Marignan, Ripaille and
Crépy—all located along the southern shores of Lake Geneva—mandate a minimum
80% Chasselas.
For Red Wines - Arbin, St-Jean-de-la-porte,
Chautagne. Chignin, Jongieux.
Traditional Method Sparkling Wines - L'Ayse (From the grape varieties Gringet and Roussette d'Ayse)
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Bugey
AOC
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Formerly Vin de Bugey,
it was upgraded to Bugey AOC/AOP in May 2004. It is located to the west of
Lake Bourget. There are 3 villages that may add their name to this appellation:
Bugey-Cerdon (sweet sparkling rosé
wines only), Bugey-Manicle (white
and red wines), and Bugey-Montagnieu (white
and red sparkling or pétillant wines only).
Bugey white wine is made from 70% Chardonnay but may also include Altesse, (Roussette),
Aligoté, Jacquére, Mondeuse Blanc and Pinot Gris. [13]
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Crémant
de Savoie
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The newest AOC in
Savoie, producers in Savoy will be able to produce sparkling wine and sell it
as crémant from December of 2015. At least 60% of the blend must consist of
the local grapes Jacquère (min. 40%) and Altesse. The balance can be made up
of Chasselas, Aligoté and Chardonnay. The AOC requires a minimum ageing
period of 12 months. Crémant de Savoie is now the 8th
crémant appellation in France, after Alsace, Bourgogne, Bordeaux, Loire,
Limoux, Jura and Die in the Rhône. [14]
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Crépy
AOC
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Established in 1948, this micro-appellation of 80 ha (197 acres) is one of the
two oldest appellations of Savoy. It is located on the south side of
Lake Geneva. It only produces white wines made from the Chasselas.
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Roussette
de Savoie AOC
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Only white wines made from 100% Altesse.
The designation may be followed by
one of the following specific geographic denominations: Frangy, Marestel,
Monthoux, Monterminod, Montagnieu and Virieu le Grand.
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Seyssel
AOC
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Established in 1942, it
is located to the north of Lake Bourget and provides dry and off-dry still
and mousseux wines. White wine (100% Altesse) and
traditional method sparkling wines are
produced from Molette and Chasselas and Altesse (minimum 10%).
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White Grapes
There are 23 authorized
grape varieties in Savoie, the most important are as follows:
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Aligoté
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Used in Crémant de Savoie AOC wine.
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Jacquére
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Also known as Martin-Côt, Molette de
Montmelian. It is grown around Mont Granier, specifically in the villages of Apremont
and Abymes where Jacquere must make up at least 80% of the wine, with
Aligote, Altesse, Chardonnay and Marsanne making up the balance. It typically
has aromas of green apples, pears, herbs and freshly cut grass.
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Altesse
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Also known as Roussette,
it
tends to produce small yields and it ripens late but is resistant to grey
rot. It typically produces wines with exotic aromas, notes of citrus and
herbs and high acidity and age-ability.
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Roussanne
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Known locally as
Bergeron, the grape vine ripens late and is characterized by its
irregular yields that can decrease further due to poor wind resistance. The
vine is also susceptible to powdery mildew and rot which makes it a difficult
vine to cultivate. During winemaking, it is prone to oxidation and it yet it
can also benefit from a controlled use of oak. In blends, The grape adds
aromatics, elegance and acidity to other wines with the potential to age and
further develop in the bottle.[15]
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Molette
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Also known as Molette blanche and
Molette de Seysse, it is a cross between Gouais blanc and a yet-to-be
identified grape variety.[16]
It tends to produce neutral tasting wine so it is often blended with Altesse (Roussette).
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Savagnin
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Known locally as
Gringet, for further comments see the notes above on Jura.
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Chardonnay
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Used in Crémant de Savoie AOC wine.
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Chasselas
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A dominant white wine
grape in Switzerland, it is used in Vin de Savoie AOC and Crémant
de Savoie wines.
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Red Grapes
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Gamay
|
Makes up 15% of acres
under vine.
|
Mondeuse Noir
|
Makes up 12% of acres under
vine.
|
Persan
|
A traditional local
grape that is in decline.
|
Pinot Noir
|
A thriving grape in
Savoie.
|
Sparkling Wine
In addition to Seyssel
AOC, other sparkling wines are produced
as Vin de Savoie mousseux or pétillant, and sparkling méthode
ancestrale rosés may be found labeled as Bugey Cerdon.
|
|
Wines Tasted
The following wines were tasted in the
French Wine Scholar class:
1. Hubert
Clavelin Cremant du Jura “Brut Comté” NV
A clear white wine, lemon on color . On
the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of dried peach skins, hints of nuts,
cheese rind, and a hint of brine. On the palate it is dry with moderate
acidity, medium body and a moderate length nutty and mushroomy finish. This
wine sells for $19.
2. 2013
Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais “Vignes des Jumeaux”
A clear red wine, bright ruby at the
core to pink at the rim with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate+
intense aromas of cranberry, raspberry, pronounced floral aromas and a hint of
wet stone and spice. On the palate it is dry and tart with “stemmy” medium
tannins, medium+ acidity with a medium+ length finish with lingering notes of
pepper and spice. This wine sells for $15.
3. 2011
Domaine Henry Fessy Fleurie “Château Des Labourons”
A clear red wine, bright ruby at the
core to pink at the rim with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is “clean” with
some major indications of brettanomyces but with vigorous swirling the barnyard
notes dissipate and a waft of dried cranberry, red plum, smoke and spice push
through. On the palate it is dry with moderate tannins, medium+ acidity, medium
body and a moderate length finish. The descriptors may not sound all that
enticing but I actually found this wine to be quite intriguing. This wine sells
for $18.
4. 2013
Domaine Chignard Julienas “Beauvernay”
A clear red wine, bright ruby at the
core to pink at the rim with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with
moderate intense aromas cranberry, pomegranate, raspberry, cherry, black pepper
and a hint of spice. On the palate it is dry with medium tannins, medium+
acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $25
5. 2013
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon
A clear red wine, bright ruby at the
core to slight pink at the rim and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
with subtle aromas of fresh cherries, cranberries, pomegranates, hints of
cinnamon, pepper and spice. On the palate it is dry with very refined and silky
moderate tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a medium length finish. This
wine sells for $32
6. 2012
Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent “Cuvee
Vielles Vignes”
A clear red wine, bright ruby at the
core to slight pink at the rim and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean
with subtle aromas of cranberries, pomegranates, black pepper, minor notes of
barnyard (“brett”) and spice. On the palate with is dry with moderate tannins,
medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $23
7. 2005
Domaine Ganevat Côtes du Jura Vin Jaune “La Combe”
A clear white wine, golden in color
with medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with intense aromas of dried
oranges, nuts, autumn leaves, and peat. On the palate it is dry with medium+
acidity, medium bodied and a very nutty and leafy long finish. This wine sells
for $74.
8. Patrick
Bottex Bugey Cerdon “La Cueille” Rose Methode Ancestrale
A clear pink wine with small bubbles.
On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of chocolate covered strawberries, cranberry,
raspberries with pungent floral notes. On the palate it is semi-sweet on entry
and then quickly turns tart, it has medium+ acidity, light body and a medium
length finish. This wine sells for $23.
9. 2013 Château de
Ripaille Vin de Savoie Ripaille
A clear white wine, lemon in color with medium
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of lemon-lime, melon
rind, apple, pineapple, and dried tropical fruit. On the palate it is dry and
somewhat tart with medium+ acidity, medium body with a salty minerality on a
medium length finish. This wine sells for $12.
[1] Julien
Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study
Manual (French Wine Society), 117.
[2]
Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed), French
Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 118.
[6] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed),
French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 134.
[7] Andre Domine, (ed) Wine
(Germany: Tandem Verlag, 2008), 176.
[8] Andre Domine, (ed) Wine
(Germany: Tandem Verlag, 2008), 176.
[9] Andre Domine, (ed) Wine
(Germany: Tandem Verlag, 2008), 176.
[10] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 736.
[11] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 614.
[12] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey, Celine Camus (ed),
French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine Society), 143.
[15] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 595.
[16] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006), 113.
