Sunday, December 21, 2014

Italy Unit 14 - Campania




Check out the above video of Southern Italy which includes Sicily, Campania and Puglia.



The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Campania region of Italy including information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

Campania is located along the western coast of Italy, south of Lazio, north of Basilicata and west of Abruzzo and Molise. If we think of Puglia as the ‘heel’ of Italy then Campania would be the ‘shin' of Italy’s boot. The name is derived from the Latin Campania felix, which means ‘fertile land’. Its capital and most important city is Naples.


White and Red Wines of Campania



The dominant white varietals of Campania are Falanghina, Fiano and Greco with the important zones being Greco di Tufo DOCG and Fiano di Avellino DOCG. The dominant red varietals are Aglianico and Piedirosso (“red feet”) with the important zones for Aglianico being Taurasi DOCG and Aglianico del Taburno DOCG. However, less than 10% of the region’s wines are at DOC level.



Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio



Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, which literally “tears of Christ”, is the name of a well-known wine produced on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius in Campania.  White Lacryma Christi is made mainly from Verdeca and Coda di Volpe grapes, with smaller proportions of Falanghina, Caprettone and Greco di Tufo. Red Lacryma Christi is made from Piedirosso and Sciascinoso grapes. The name “Lacryma Christi” comes from a legend that Jesus Christ cried over Lucifer's fall from heaven and that his tears on the land gave divine inspiration to the vines that grew there.



Dessert Wines



In addition to passito wines, Campania is home to a unique dessert wine known as Moscato Lambiccato. The lambiccato wines are made from 100% Muscat varieties that are dried immediately after harvest and then pressed delicately in the alambicchi which give the style its name.[1] Harvest takes place usually in the first ten days of September the cooler hours of the day. The must then goes through a cold fermentation and a series of filters, aiming to obtain and preserve the scents and the typical aromatic notes the Moscato grape. The result is a sweet wine that rarely exceeds 5% alcohol and traditionally has been enjoyed during Christmas.



Climate
The climate along the coast of Campania is Mediterranean, with high temperatures and sunny days in the summer and colder, damper weather in the winter. The coastal Mediterranean breezes blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea and across the Apennine Mountains to temper the heat, encouraging a bright acidity in the fruit. The inner zones are more continental, with low temperatures in winter. About 51% of the region is hilly, 34% mountainous and the remaining 15% is made up of plains.
Soils
Most vineyards are on volcanic soil in these areas which is inhospitable for the deadly phylloxera louse.
IGTs
Campania has 10 Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) zones which are: Beneventano or Beneventano, Campania, Catalanesca del Monte Somma, Colli di Salerno, Dugenta, Epomeo, Paestum, Pompeiano, Roccamonfina, Terre del Volturno
DOCs and DOCGs
There are 13 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC)s and 4 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s in Campania.
DOCs
1. Aversa DOC
Established in 1993. The primary white grape varietal is Asprinio. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Asprinio. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 100% Asprinio, fermented in pressurized tanks or autoclaves.
2. Campi Flegrei DOC
Established in 1994. The primary white grape varietal is Falanghina. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico and Piedirosso. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Falanghina. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Piedirosso (referred to locally as Pèr e Palummo) and a minimum of 30% Aglianico. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 90% Falanghina. Passito Bianco must consist of a minimum of 90% Falanghina. Passito Rosso must consist of a minimum of 90% Piedirosso. Passito wines may be made from up to 45% fresh grapes along with dried grapes.
3. Capri DOC
Established in 1977. The primary white grape varietals are: Falanghina and Greco. The primary red grape varietal is Piedirosso. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 80% Falanghina and/or Greco. Passito Bianco must consist of Rosso must consist of a minimum of 80% Piedirosso.
4. Castel San Lorenzo DOC
Established in 1992. The primary white grape varietals are: Moscato and Trebbiano The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico and Barbera. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50–60% Trebbiano Toscano and 30–40% Malvasia. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60–80% Barbera and 20–30% Sangiovese. Passito and Moscato Lambiccato must consist of 85% Moscato.
5. Cilento DOC
Established in 1989. The primary white grape varietal is Fiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60–65% Fiano, 20–30% Trebbiano and 10–15% Greco and/or Malvasia. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60–75% Aglianico; 15–20% Piedirosso and/or Primitivo. Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70–80% Sangiovese; 10–15% Aglianico; 10–15% Piedirosso and/or Primitivo.
6. Costa d’Amalfi DOC
Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietals are: Biancolella, Chardonnay, Cococciola, Falanghina, Montonico Bianco, Passerina, Pecorino. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico, Piedirosso, Pinot Nero, Sciascinoso. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Biancolella and/or Falanghina. Passito Bianco must consist of 40–60% Biancolella and/or Falanghina. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 40% Piedirosso (locally Pèr e Palummo); maximum 60% Aglianico and/or Sciascinoso (known locally as Olivella). Spumante must consist of a minimum of 60% Chardonnay, Cococciola, Montonico Bianco, Passerina, Pecorino, and/or Pinot Nero. Passito Bianco must consist of 40–60% Biancolella and/or Falanghina.  Passito Rosso must consist of a minimum of 40% Piedirosso; maximum 60% Aglianico and/or Sciascinoso.

7. Falanghina del Sannio DOC


Established in 2011, incorporating the Falanghina-based wines of the former DOCs Guardia Sanframondi (Guardiolo), Sant’Agata dei Goti, Solopaca, and Taburno (the other wines from those DOCs are now part of the Sannio DOC). The primary white grape varietal is Falanghina. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Falanghina. Passito must consist of 85% Falanghina. Spumante and Metodo Classico must consist of a minimum of 85% Falanghina.
8. Falerno del Massico DOC
Established in 1989. The primary white grape varietal is Falanghina. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico and Primitivo. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Falanghina. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Aglianico; maximum 40% Piedirosso.
9. Galluccio DOC
Established in 1997. The primary white grape varietal is Falanghina. The primary red grape varietal is Aglianico. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 70% Falanghina. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 70% Aglianico.
10. Ischia DOC
Established in 1966. The primary white grape varietals are: Biancolella and Forastera. The primary red grape varietals are: Guarnaccia and Piedirosso. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 45–70% Forastera and 30–55% Biancolella. Passito Bianco must consist of 45–70% Forastera and 30–55% Biancolella. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 40–50% Guarnaccia and 40–50% Piedirosso (known locally as Pèr e Palummo). Spumante must consist of a minimum of 45–70% Forastera and 30–55% Biancolella. Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Piedirosso.
11. Penisola Sorrentina DOC
Established in 1994. The primary white grape varietals are: Biancolella, Falanghina and Greco. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico, Piedirosso, and Sciascinoso. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Biancolella, Falanghina, and/or Greco, with a minimum 40% Falanghina. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Aglianico, Piedirosso (locally Pèr e Palummo), and/or Sciascinoso (locally Olivella), with a minimum 40% Piedirosso.
12. Sannio DOC
Established in 1997. The primary white grape varietals are: Coda di Volpe, Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, Malvasia, Moscato and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico, Barbera, Piedirosso, Sangiovese, Sciascinoso. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano and/or Malvasia Bianca di Candia. Rosso  and Rosato  must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Spumante or Spumante di Qualità must consist of a minimum of 70% Aglianico and/or Falanghina.
13. Vesuvio DOC
Established in 1983. The primary white grape varietal is Coda di Volpe. The primary red grape varietal is Piedirosso. Bianco and Lacryma Christi/ Lacrima Christi Bianco must consist of a minimum of 35% Coda di Volpe (locally Caprettone or Crapettone); maximum 45% Verdeca; maximum 20% Falanghina and/or Greco. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Piedirosso; maximum 30% Sciascinoso; maximum 20% Aglianico. Lacrima Christi Spumante must consist of a minimum of 35% Coda di Volpe and a maximum of 45% Verdeca.
DOCGs
1. Aglianico del Taburno DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1986, it became a DOCG in 2011. The primary red grape varietal is Aglianico. Rosso and Rosato  must consist of a minimum of 85% Aglianico. Rosso must be aged a minimum of 2 years and Riserva must be aged a minimum of minimum 3 years, including 12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle.
2. Fiano di Avelino DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1978, it became a DOCG in 2003. The primary white grape varietal is Fiano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Fiano with a maximum of 15% Coda di Volpe, Greco, and/or Trebbiano. The term “Apianum” which may appear on the label is an ancient name for the region where this wine is produced, not a style or sub-region.
3. Greco di Tufo DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1970, it became a DOCG in 2003. The primary white grape varietal is Greco. Bianco and Spumante must consist of a minimum of 85% Greco and a maximum of 15% Coda di Volpe and be aged a minimum of 36 months on the lees.
4. Taurasi DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1970, it became a DOCG in 1993. The primary red grape varietal is Aglianico. Rosso must be aged a minimum of 3 years, including 1 year in barrel. Riserva must be aged a minimum of minimum 4 years, including 18 months in barrel.
Key White Grape Varieties
French Varietals
Chardonnay
Asprinio
Recent DNA profiling has proven that Asprinio is genetically identical to Greco Bianco. It is used in the Aversa Asprinio DOC to produce both still and sparkling (spumante) wines.
Biancolella
An ancient varietal of Greek origin, Biancolella is typically blended with Forastera to create simple and approachable white wines. It is best grown on the island of Ischia, in the Bay of Naples, in terraced vineyards on volcanic soils and is produced as a varietal wine.
Cococciola
Also known as Cacciuola and Cacciola. It is a green-skinned grape that produces straw-colored wine with pronounced acidity and grassy, herbaceous aromas comparable to those found in Sauvignon Blanc.
Coda di Volpe

The name means “Tail of the Fox” in reference to the variety’s elongated bunches of grapes, which resemble a fox’s bushy tail. Coda di Volpe grapes and the wine are golden-yellow in color. The grape tends to have fruity aromas of citrus, tropical fruit with sweet spices spicy. It is not particularly high in acidity, which is the reason that it has done so well in Vesuvius' volcanic soils as they often impart higher acidity to grapes grown in them. It is also known as Falerno (used in Campania's famous Falernia wine), Durante and Coda di Pecora which means “Tail of the Sheep.”
Falanghina
It also referred to as Falanghina Grecoand its name is derived from the Latin falangae for the “stakes” used to support the grapes in a vineyard. It is an ancient grape variety which may have provided a basis for the classical Falernian wine, which was favored by the Romans. It is also grown in Abruzzo but it is more commonly found in Campania.
Fiano
Fiano thrives in the volcanic soils of the Apennine Mountains and it is used primarily as a varietal wine. Fiano tends to have is aromas and flavors of tropical fruit like pineapple with nutty, floral, honeyed notes and spice. It can develop a sweetness that makes it extremely attractive to bees, as referenced by its traditional name, Vitis apiana (“the vine beloved of bees”). Fiano is best known for its dry wines but it is also made into passito dessert wines that are luscious and textured, developing dried fruit flavors of fig and prune. It is most well-known in Fiano di Avellino DOCG wine.
Forastera
Also known as Uva dell'Isola, it tends to have aromas of peach and apricot along with herbal notes of sage and juniper as well as a distinctive almond flavor. It is found mostly on the Campanian islands of Procida and Ischia.
Greco di Tufo
The Greco di Tufo grape is a clone of Greco Bianco. Recent DNA profiling has proven that Greco is genetically identical to Asprinio, as it is known along the coast of Campania. It tends to have high acidity and a fresh, clean, grapey flavor profile but they also tend to oxidize in bottle relatively quickly resulting in nutty, caramelized flavors so they are best when consumed young. It was introduced to Campania by the Pelasgians, an ancient people from Thessaly in Greece. The name Tufo refers not only to one of the villages from which the wine comes, but also the type of rock on which the village was built.
Malvasia
Also known as Malmsey, Malvasier, Malvazia, and Monemvasia. It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years. Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia. It is grown all over Italy.
Montonico Bianco
Not to be confused with Mantonico Bianco, DNA profiling has demonstrated that it is related to Garganega. The Montonico grape has been grown in Abruzzo at least since the mid-19th century, especially in the municipalities of Montonico di Bisenti and Poggio delle Rose in the province of Teramo. The grape bunch tends to be big, long and compact, either cylindrical or pyramid-shaped. Though it ripens late, reaching full maturity around the second week of October, its harvest period depends on whether it is being used to produce spumante. This vine thrives in cool, tempered environments with low fertility soil. The wines produced with this grape have a more or less deep yellow color, sometimes with greenish highlights, low alcohol content, light fragrance of fruits and spices, are slightly astringent and have good structure.
Moscato
Known as Moscatel in Spain and Portugal, and Muscat internationally it is one of the oldest and most widespread grape families in the world. It is believed to have originated in the Middle East and was grown by the ancient Greeks. Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is the oldest and most highly valued of the Muscat family.
Pallagrello Bianco
A green-skinned grape variety that once believed to have become extinct due to phylloxera and powdery mildew but was rediscovered in the 1990s by Italian vine grower and former lawyer Peppe Mancini, who has since replanted it and the nero variant. Pallagrello Bianco vines produce small bunches of small berries that are high in sugar and low in acid. This produces wines with a wide range of aromas including peach, apricot, honey, wax, almond and vanilla (when aged in oak). Structurally they tend to be soft, rich, with a full and succulent feel in the mouth. During my study I tasted a 2011 Terre Del Principe Le Serole Pallagrello Bianco, the notes are below.
Passerina
Known by various names such as “Pagadebito Gentile”, “Campolese” and “Uva Passera”, the term "Passerina" is derived from Passero the Italian word for “sparrow”, which are known for having an appetite for ripe Passerina grapes. The grape is thought to be a mutation of Biancame which is more well-known in Marche.
Pecorino
This grape may be native to Marche where it is still used today in the wines of Offida Pecorino DOCG. According to local legend, Pecorino gets its name from the sheep (pecora) who would snack on the grapes in the vineyards.
Trebbiano
Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+ DOCs.
Verdeca
Also known as Albese Bianco, Carossela, Verdicchio, Tivolese, San Gennaro, Vino Verde, and Uva Marana. It is more well known in Puglia and was used to be mostly used in making Vermouth. Its wines can range from quite neutral and herbal to having aromas of citrus. in Campania, Verdeca is sued to produce Lacryma Christi (tears of Christ) wines produced from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.
Key Red Grape Varieties
French Varietals
Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir)
Aglianico
Pronounced "ahl-YAH-nee-koe" but it is also known as Agliatica, Ellenico, Ellanico, Gnanico, and Uva Nera. It is primarily grown in the Basilicata and Campania regions of Italy. Structurally it is similar to Nebbiolo giving it the nickname “the Barolo of the South.” It produces wines with high tannins, high levels of acidity, and full-body with musky berry flavors.
Barbera
The 3rd most-planted red grape variety in Italy after Sangiovese and Montepulciano. It is known for its deep color, low tannins and high acidity which enables it to be grown in warmer climates. The fruit profile tends toward dark cherry, dried strawberry, plum, and blackberry.
Caprettone
The name Caprettone may be derived from the Italian word capra which means “sheep” and could be a reference to the characteristic shape of Caprettone clusters which can resemble a sheep's beard. It is an early to mid-ripening grape variety that is usually harvested in Campania in mid to late September. It is noted for being able to maintain moderate acidity levels even in the warm climates, is used to make Metodo Classico sparkling wines and it is minor blending component in Lacryma Christi Bianco.
Casavecchia
Also known as Trebulano, Casavecchia is a rediscovered red grape variety from Campania. Local legend has it that a single, forgotten vine was discovered among the ruins of Pontelatone, Italy, a gnarled old vine with a trunk 15 inches (40cm) wide, from which cuttings were taken and used to graft new vines. The name Casavecchia means "old house" in reference to the stone enclosure where it was found. Once it was studied, Casavecchia was identified as Trebulano; a Roman grape variety previously thought to be extinct. The wine is quite rare, though a few varietal examples are available, which all fall under the Campania IGT classification. Casavecchia makes typically medium-bodied wine with blackberry and black cherry flavors.
Guarnaccia
Also known as Perricone Nera, Perricone Nero, Perricone noir, Picnatelo, Pignateddu, Pignatelle, Pignatello, Pirricone nera, Quarnaccia and Tuccarino di Catania. It is primarily grown in Calabria (37%), Veneto (27%), and Sicilia (19%). It is characterized as being medium sized cone shaped, but one of the longest bunches of grapes in Italy.
Pallagrello Nero
It was once believed to have become extinct due to phylloxera and powdery mildew but was rediscovered in the 1990s by Italian vine grower and former lawyer Peppe Mancini, who has since replanted it and the Bianco variant. The vines produce small bunches of small berries, producing dark wines with soft tannins, high alcohol and moderate to low acidity. Aromas include plum, blueberry and blackberry along with chocolate and some peppery notes. During my study I tasted a 2006 Terre Del Principe Ambruco Pallagrello Nero, the notes are below.
Piedirosso
Piedirosso means “red feet” in Italian, and is named as such because the stem is made up of three branches and is russet colored making the vine resemble a dove’s foot. This also explains some of the variety’s other names are Palombina, which means “little dove”, and Pere'e Pallummo, which means “dove’s foot”. It is grown predominantly as a blending partner for Aglianico and Olivella. Single-variety wines made from Piedirosso tend to be deep ruby in color with soft tannins and be full bodied. The typical profile of aromas and flavors include plum, cherry and brambly wild berry fruit and the best versions also include espresso, mushroom and damp earth with a salty minerality, which may be due to the volcanic soils on which the grape thrives. All single-variety wines are classified under the IGT title. The grape is grown in 10 DOCs in Campania. It is most well-known for being 50% of the blend in the Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio red and rosé wines.
Primitivo
Primitivo and its California relative Zinfandel are clones of a Croatian grape called Crljenak. The history of this grape in Italy dates back at least to the 17th century when the Benedictine monks named the varietal “Primitivo” which translates roughly as “early one” and it was named as such because of it is an early ripening grape in this zone. It tends to produce wines that are deeply colored, with aromas of flavors of cherry, jam, wild blackberry, raspberry clove and spice. Structurally it tends to have high tannins, moderate acidity, be full bodied and have high alcohol.
Sangiovese
Sangiovese derives its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove and it has several synonyms. In Chianti Classico it may be referred to as Sangiovetto, in Montalcino it is called Brunello, in Montepulciano it is called Prugnello Gentile and along the coast in Maremma it is called Morellino. "Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones which are broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. The Sangiovese Grosso family includes the clones growing in the Brunello region as well as the clones known as Prugnolo Gentileand Sangiovese di Lamole that was grown in the Greve in Chianti region. Sangiovese wines in Tuscany tend to be light in color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
Sciascinoso
Sciascinoso is more well-known by its synonym in Campania Olivella which comes from the elongated olive-like shape of the grape. It has a very vigorous vine that buds early and reaches maturity between the second and third week of October and produces grapes with high acidity and low sugar.
Notable Wine Producers
Feudi di San Gregorio
Bruno de Conciliis
Caggiano
DiMeo
Maffini
Mastroberardino
Marisa Cuomo
Mustilli
Villa Matilde
Vestini



The Wines



While studying Campania I tasted the following wines:



2011 Terre Del Principe Le Serole Pallagrello Bianco


This wine is made from 100% Pallagrello Bianco. It is a clear white wine, golden in color with medium concentration and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dried apples, dried orange peels, honeycomb, beeswax, salty peanut shells, and autumn leaves. On the palate it primarily has flavors of dried citrus fruit, dried tropical fruit, beeswax and graham crackers. It has medium+ acidity, it is very rich with medium+ body with a full-mouth feel and a long finish. I particularly enjoyed this wine as it is an exceptional alternative to California Chardonnay as a rich wine and yet without the buttery oaky characteristics. This wine sells for $29.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.



2006 Terre Del Principe Ambruco Pallagrello Nero



This wine is made from 100% Pallagrello Nero. This is an opaque red wine, dark purple to the core to violet minimal rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of blackberries, wild blueberries, tart plums, violets, lavender, with minor notes of chocolate, vanilla, pepper and spice. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is dry and soft with low tannins, it is silky on the mid palate and mouth-watering with medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $36.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.



2009 Terre del Principe Centomoggia Casavecchia Terre del Volturno IGT


This wine is made from 100% Casavecchia. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple/black at the core to violet with minimal rim variation, medium+ viscosity and slightly staining tears. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dried plums, blackberry preserves, dates, violets, and a hint of pepper. On the palate the nose is confirmed with additional notes of vanilla, it has medium tannins, medium acidity, medium body and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $34.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.



2005 Terredora di Paolo Pago dei Fusi, Taurasi DOCG


This wine is made from 100% Aglianico. This is an opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core to garnet at the rim medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dusty ripe cherries, Dr. Pepper, dried roses, forest floor, cinnamon stick, mushrooms with a touch of spice. On the palate it is dry with refined high tannins, medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and a moderate length finish. In many ways it resembles a Barolo or Barbaresco, but it is more rustic with “in your face” power and lacks the elegance and finesse of a fine Nebbiolo. This wine sells for $34.99 at K&L in Redwood City, California which is a great deal as I’ve seen it at the Artisan Wine Depot in Mountain View, California for $48.95.




[1]  Alambicchi is a type of “alembic” which is used for refining, more commonly used to make Cognac.

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