Italy Unit 11 – Le Marche

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Marche (Italian Le Marche) region of Italy including information about the climate, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

If we think Puglia as the heel of the boot and Calabria as the toe, then Le Marche would be the calf muscle of the leg as it is located to the east of Umbria, south of Emilia-Romagna and north of Abruzzo on the Adriatic Coast.

The name of the region derives from the plural name of marca, a medieval and early modern European name for a border area of a realm where different laws applied, for defense of the border against hostile incursions, or to regulate border trade or both. The name for this region originally referred to the medieval March of Ancona and nearby marches of Camerino and Fermo.

Le Marche has a lot of hills (“Colli” in Italian) as well as river valleys and the coastal strip. The coastal Castelli di Jesi and the more inland and higher-altitude Matelica are the optimum zones for vineyards.

The dominant white grape varietal is Verdicchio and the dominant red grape is Montepulciano. Normale versions of wines are released as DOC and the riserva versions, aged for a minimum of 18 months, are released as DOCG. The Matelica wines are often sharper, whereas Castelli di Jesi wines have more body with a fuller, rounder character.

Climate
The climate one end to the other of Marche is fairly uniform due to the sea breezes that temper the weather in the gentle river valleys. Only when you go deep into the Umbro-Marchigiano Apenines does the landscape get rugged.
DOCs and DOCGs There are 11 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC)s and 2 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s in Le Marche. In 2009 Le Marche doubled its number of DOCG wines with the addition of Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG and Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG.
DOCs
1. Bianchello del Metauro DOC	Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietal is Biancame. Bianco and Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 95% Biancame (known locally as Bianchello) and up to 5% of Malvasia bianca Lunga (known locally as Malvasia Toscana), can also be included. Spumante can have a maximum of 5% Malvasia.
2. Colli Maceratesi DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietal is Maceratino. The primary red grape varietal are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot plus Italian varietals Ciliegiolo, Lacrima, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Vernaccia Nera. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 70% Maceratino (known locally as Ribona) and a maximum of 30% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Incrocio Bruni 54, Malvasia, Pecorino, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, and/or Verdicchio. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Lacrima, Merlot, Montepulciano, and/or Vernaccia Nera.
3. Colli Pesaresi DOC	Established in 1972. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, plus Italian varietals Biancame, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, plus Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 75% Biancame, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero (vinified as a white wine), Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano Toscano (locally Albanella), Verdicchio, and/or Welschriesling. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 75% Biancame, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero (vinified as a white wine), Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and/or Welschriesling.
4. Esino DOC	Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietal is Verdicchio. The primary red grape varietal are: Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Verdicchio, normally Trebbiano and/or Malvasia is added. A sparkling (frizzante) version is also produced, minimum alcohol content 9.5%. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Montepulciano and/or Sangiovese.
5. Falerio DOC / Falerio dei Colli Ascolani DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietals are: Pecorino and Trebbiano Bianco must consist of a minimum of 20–50% Trebbiano Toscano; 10–30% Passerina; 10–30% Pecorino.
6. Lacrima di Morro DOC	Established in 1985. The primary red grape varietal is Lacrima. Rosso and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Lacrima.
7. Pergola DOC	Established in 2005. The primary red grape varietal is Aleatico also known as Vernaccia di Pergola. Rosso, Rosato,  Spumante, and Spumante Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Aleatico.
8. Rosso Cònero DOC	Established as a DOC in 1967; a separate Cònero DOCG for the Riserva was established in 2004. The primary red grape varietal is Montepulciano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano.
9. Rosso Piceno DOC	Established in 1968. It surrounds the coastal Conero zone, and is produced from grapes which ripen in a restricted sunny area in the foothills of the mountain which goes by the same name just south of Ancona and typically offers lighter Sangiovese and Montepulciano blends. The primary red grape varietals are: Montepulciano, Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 35–85% Montepulciano and 15–50% Sangiovese.
10. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC	Established as a DOC in 1968; Riserva became the Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG in 2010. The primary white grape varietal is Verdicchio. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Verdicchio.
11. Verdicchio di Matelica DOC	Established as a DOC in 1967; Riserva became the Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG in 2010. The primary white grape varietal is Verdicchio. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Verdicchio.
DOCGs
1. Offida DOCG	Established as a DOC in 2001; became a DOCG in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Passerina and Pecorino. The primary red grape varietal is Montepulciano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano. These are aromatically complex wines made from the obscure Lacrima grape that can produce a heady, floral, Pinot Noir-like character.
2. Cònero Rosso Riserva DOCG	Established as a DOC in 1967; became a DOCG in 2004. It is produced just south of the regional capital Ancona. The primary red grape varietal is Montepulciano. Riserva must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano and a maximum 15% Sangiovese. It is aged for 2 years prior to release, and many producers rely on a percentage of new barriques for aging rather than the traditional old botti.
3. Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG	Established as a DOC in 1971; became a DOCG in 2004. The primary red grape varietal is Vernaccia Nera. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Vernaccia Nera. Spumante can range from dry (secco) to dolce made from a percentage of passito grapes (40%).
Other wines that have not yet received the D.O.C. label but are worth a noting are Vinsanto di Sant'Angelo in Vado, a dessert wine, and Tristo di Montesecco a dry white wine produced in a zone around Pergola. Also the delicate 'Brut's with an extremely fine beaded sparkle (Metodo Classico) based on Verdicchio.
Key White Grape Varieties Le Marche produces a large variety of wines including 13 white varieties of wine carrying the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) label.
Biancame	This grape is believed to be native to Le Marche. It is the primary component in Bianchello del Metauro DOC produced in the province Pesaro and Urbino.
Bruni 54	A green grape that is a Sauvignon Blanc x Verdicchio crossing. It was developed around 1936 by Professor Bruni of Padua University who planted Sauvignon Blanc and Verdicchio adjacent to each other and they then “naturally” crossed. The grape nearly went into extinction but it was revived by consulting wine maker, Giancarlo Soverchia. It is described as being straw yellow with greenish highlights, displaying aromas of exotic fruit and floral notes reminiscing of Moscato, with high acidity.
Grechetto	Also known as Grechetto Bianco, it is believed to have its origins in Greece. Grechetto has been grown in Italy for so long that it is now widely regarded as being native. The grape's thick skin provides good resistance to downy mildew which can attack the grape late in the harvest season. This makes Grechetto a suitable blending grape in the production of Vin Santo. Grechetto wines affected by botrytis display a range of nutty flavors and are labeled as abboccato.
Maceratino	Also known as Aribona, Bianchetta, Uva Stretta the grape is grown almost exclusively in the Marche region on the Adriatic coast and the production of this grape is in decline in favor of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.
Malvasia	Also known as Malmsey, Malvasier, Malvazia, Monemvasia. It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years. Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia. It is grown all over Italy,
Passerina	Also known as Pagadebito Gentile, Campolese and Uva Passera. The term “Passerina” is attributed to those grapes that have small berries often devoid of seeds. Passero is the Italian word for “sparrow” so the name is also used for a genus Passerina which is a group of birds in the Cardinal family Cardinalidae. The grape is believed to be a mutation of Biancame. Passerina vines have mid-sized, pentagonal leaves and small grapes, which grow in medium-to-large clusters. The berry’s skin is quite thick and ripens to a deep golden color. The grapes ripen with a high level of natural sugars, and have correspondingly high acidity, making for balanced wines in all but the hottest sites.
Pecorino	It is also known as Arquitano, Pecorina Arquatanella, Mosciolo, and Vissanello. The name Pecorino is perhaps more widely associated with Pecorino cheese, which is made from ewes' milk (the word means “little sheep”). A classic Pecorino-based wine is straw-yellow in color and has an elegantly floral bouquet of acacia and jasmine, sometimes spiced with a faint hint of licorice. As a blending component, the variety's most common partners are Passerina and Trebbiano.
Pinot Bianco	Known as Pinot Blanc in France and Weissburgunder in Germany. It is a mutation of Pinot Grigio (which is a mutation of Pinot Noir). It typicaly displays aromas of green apple, white flower, and beeswax and it more floral, steely and mineral-driven than Pinot Grigio. It can also be more fleshy and rich in its resiny, honeyed yellow fruit aromas and flavors.
Pinot Grigio	Internationally it is known as Grauburgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Pinot Gris, and Ruländer. In the northeastern regions of Italy it thrives in Trentino-Alto Adige and Veneto, where it produces wines with notes of pear and apple with hints of lemon and a distinct minerality that are dry, crisp with more body and substance.
Trebbiano Toscano	Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+ DOCs.
Verdicchio	Verdicchio is the most important grape of the Marches and it has the capacity to produce ageworthy, focused, green-tinged white wines. It is also known as Trebbiano di Soave (in Veneto), Trebbiano di Lugana, Marchigiano, Turbiana. Marche has two DOC titles for varietal Verdicchio wines: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. A classic Verdicchio-based wine has green apple and bosc pear as well as citrus flavors like lemon and grapefruit accompanied by bitter notes when young or a rich, sweet suggestion of marzipan and honey as the wine ages. The late-ripening Verdicchio grape is naturally high in acidity, making it suitable for spumante production and the occasional late harvest wine at the DOC level.
Vernaccia Nera	This Vernaccia grape in Marches is actually a red grape. The name “Vernaccia” probably derives from the Latin vernaculus (“indigenous”) and is used for a number of distinct varieties in Italy.
Welschriesling (Riesling Italico)	Also known elsewhere as Welsch Rizling (Bulgaria), Laški Rizling (the former Yugoslavia), Olasz Riesling (Hungary) and Gras Evina (Croatia). It is unrelated to the Rhine Riesling and its origin is uncertain but the word Welsch means “foreign” in Germanic languages. In Le Marche and elsewhere in Italy it is known as Riesling Italico and is also found in Trentino, Collio and Friuli.
Key Red Grape Varieties
French Varietals	Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) and Syrah.
Ciliegiolo	Pronounced chee-lee'eh-JOH-loh, it is named after the Italian for word “cherry” it is usually a minor component of traditional blends such as Chianti, but it also produced as a varietal wine. It s related to Sangiovese and Calabrese di Montenuovo. It is also known as Aleatico di Spagna,  Brunellone, Criminese, Ciliegino, Ciliegiolo di Spagna, Ciliegiuolo and Ciriegiuolo Dolce.
Lacrima	The grape’s name means “tear” in Italian which is derived either from its tear-like shape, or the fact that its thin skin has a tendency to rupture easily which causes juice to weep out of the grapes and onto the bunch. Lacrima is low in tannins and is considered usually best for drinking in its youth. Its use is mostly limited to Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC.
Montepulciano	Pronounced Mohn-teh-pool-CHAH-nooh, this grape may have originated in the Tuscan town of Montepulciano but it is now more commonly found in Abruzzo. It is NOT to be confused with Tuscany’s wine “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano”; they are both different wines with distinct regions and grapes.
Sangiovese	It is believed to be the offspring of Ciliegiolo x Calabrese di Montenuovo. One theory suggests that “Sangiovese” derives from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, or the “blood of Jove”, while another suggests it derives from San Giovanni (Saint John). It is generally recognized that there are two types of Sangiovese, Grosso and Piccolo. Synonyms include Morellino (Grosseto), Brunello (Montalcino), Prugnolo Gentile (Montepulciano), Sangioveto (Chianti), Sanvicetro (Chianti), Calabrese (Chianti), Montepulciano (Southern Italy), Puttanella (Calabria), Tuccanese (Puglia). Typically it displays aromas of Tart Red Fruit (Sour Cherry, Raspberry), red apple, black cherry, tomato, dried flowers, clove, coffee, as well as balsamic, animal, leather, and tar. Structurally it tends to have medium+ tannins and medium to medium+ acidity and medium to medium+ alcohol.
Vernaccia di Pergola	Also known as Aleatico, the word “Vernaccia” simply means “common” and can be used by locals to refer to a number of indigenous  grapes. The most common grape to use this term is Vernaccia di San Gimignano in Tuscany. However, where as it is a white grape variety Vernaccia di Pergola is red.

The Wines

While studying Le Marche I tasted the following wines:

2013 Colli Stefano Verdicchio di Matelica

This is a clear white wine, straw-yellow in color with green tint around the edge, low concentration with a watery meniscus and medium- viscosity. 

On the nose it is clean with medium+ intense aromas of lemon, melon, lemon pith, green apples, hints of chalk, and dried chives. On the palate it has additional notes of mandarin orange, it is dry with medium+ refreshing acidity, it is medium bodied and has a long citrus and mineral driven finish. This wine sells for $15.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City, California.

2012 San Leopardo Colli Maceratesi Riserva

This wine is a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 10% Cigliegiolo.  It is an opaque red wine, dark ruby and violet in color with moderate concentration and medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of tart black cherries, dried plum, dried roses and violets, minor notes of spice. On the plate it is has flavors of sour cherries, minor notes of tobacco, cigar box, damp earth and spice. It is very dry with medium chewy tannins, moderate acidity and a medium length finish. This wine sells for $23.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2008 Terracruda Lubaco Pergola Rosso

This wine is made from 100% Vernaccia di Pergola (Aleatico). It is aged for at least 1 year in barrique with fining in the bottle.  Afterwards, the wine is matured in oak barrique for 14-18 months and refined for at least 6 months in the bottle. It is a dark opaque red wine, dark purple at the core with medium+ intensity which then turns violet with minimal rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of strawberry preserves, desiccated black cherries, Dr. Pepper, sweet dried plums, wet leather, potpourri, and damp sweet pipe tobacco followed by a scented Christmas candle with a hint of cinnamon and spice. On the palate it is dry with perhaps a slight bit of residual sugar but not enough to make it “off dry”, it has medium tannins, medium acidity and it is full bodied with high alcohol (15% abv.) and a moderate length finish. It is definitely a “unique” wine and unlike anything I have experienced from Italy. It is somewhat reminiscent of some Old Vine Zins and Portuguese varietal wines from the Central Valley and Sierra Foothills of California. This wine sells for $29.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.