The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Lombardia
wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the
topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive
information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the
wines I tasted from this region.
Lombardia (Lombardy) is one of the few regions in Italy that is completely landlocked without access to the sea. To the west of Lombardy is the Piedmont wine region, to the south is Emilia-Romagna and to the east are the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Veneto wine regions. Yet it does have many bodies of water such as Lake Como and Lake Garda. To the north are the Alps extending over the border into Switzerland and to the south in the valley is the Po River and its tributaries which provide water in the flat agricultural zone that includes Lombardy’s wine region. Lombardia is not as prominent as many other wine regions in Italy but it has made a name for itself as being the competitor with Champagne producing sparkling wines in the Franciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese DOCGs.
Franciacorta
Located along the shores of Lake Iseo, vineyards are planted
in well-drained morainic soils - glacially formed accumulation of
unconsolidated debris of soil and rock. Sparkling wines in the region are made
in both the
metodo classico and tank method. Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Noir), and a
maximum 50% Pinot Bianco are permitted for use in the wine.
Styles of
Franciacorta
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Vintage
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The wines are required to have a minimum of 85% grapes
from the indicated vintage and must be aged for at least 30 months prior to
release, but it is common for the wines to be aged for a much longer period.
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Non-vintage
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These wines must spend at least 18 months maturing on the
lees, and may not be released until 25 months after the harvest
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Riserva
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These wines must be aged at least 5 years on its lees,
with release after a minimum 67 months.
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Satèn
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These are a Crémant style wine that have less
carbon dioxide than the standard sparkling wine but are more
"bubbly" than a frizzante. Pinot Noir may not be used and they are
bottled at less than five atmospheres, a lower pressure than the five to six
atmospheres required for standard bottlings.
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Rosé
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These must consist of at least 15% Pinot Nero grapes and
is produced by blending red and white wine.
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With the exception of the exclusively brut “Satèn” style,
non-vintage Franciacorta may be released in wide range of final sweetness
levels, determined by the dosato (dosage).
Residual Sugar Levels
The sweetness levels for Sparkling wine in Franciacorta are the same as
Champagne, except there is no Doux, which are as follows:
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Extra Brut
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The driest with less than 6 grams per liter of residual
sugar.
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Brut
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Less than 15 grams per liter of residual sugar.
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Extra Dry
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12-20 grams per liter of residual sugar.
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Sec
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17-35 grams per liter of residual sugar.
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Demi Sec
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33-50 grams per liter of residual sugar.
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Oltrepò Pavese
Oltrepò Pavese (“Pavia across the
Po”) is in the southern regions of Lombardy and forms most of the region's
southern border with Emilia-Romagna. Here metodo classico sparkling
wines are also produced as Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG. The dominate
grape is Pinot Nero which must make up at least 70% of the blend. If they have
at least 85% they may be labeled “Pinot Nero” and “Pinot Nero Rosé”. Non-vintage
wines must spend 15 months on the lees and vintage wines must spend 2 years on
the lees. Still wines from the region may be released as Oltrepò Pavese DOC.
Valtellina
Valtellina, located north of Franciacorta, is the most
important zone in Lombarida for red wines. Nebbiolo (known locally as
Chiavennasca) produces lighter wines than those found in Piedmont which is due
to it being the most northern region for the grape in Italy. The higher
altitude of the vineyards and the abundance of sunshine allows for slow
ripening process of the grapes. Two DOCGs exist within Valtellina DOC:
(1) Valtellina Superiore DOCG with 5 subzones: Valgella, Inferno, Grumello,
Sassella, and Maroggia. Vatellina Superiore must be aged for at least 24 months
(12 in cask). Riserva wines
must be aged at least 3 years prior to release. If it is bottled of Switzerland
it must be labeled “Stagafassli”.
(2) Sforzato di Valtellina (also known as Sfursat di Valtellina)
is a style similar to recioto,
produced from Nebbiolo grapes (known locally as Chiavennasca).
The term “Sforzato” literally means “forced” and
is derived from the action of “forcing” the extending the ripening of the
grapes after the normal harvest. The grapes are then gently picked by hand and then transported to dry
and aired rooms called “Fruttai” where they are laid on racks to continue withering
for about 110 days. This causes the grapes to wither and reduce
the juice content. By the
end of January, the grapes have lost 40% of their weight which
concentrates the sugar and flavor
and are ready for grinding and fermenting. After 2 years of ageing and refining
between barrel and bottle they can reach as high as 15/16% alcohol by volume. During
my study of Lombardia I sampled one of these wines, see my notes below.
Still Wines
The wine regions along Lake Garda are known for their Chiaretto
style rosé wine made from a blend of Barbera, Gropello, Marzemino and
Sangiovese. This dry wine is deeper in color than most rosés and typically has
good acidity with very low alcohol levels. The Rosso (red) style wines are made
with the same blend of grapes but in a darker, more full-bodied style. Varietal
styles of Gropello are rich and tannic wines. The Lugana white wines are made
from the Trebbiano grape and are known for their fruitiness and medium body.
White wines from the San Martino della Battaglia are made from the Tocai
Friuliano grape, which is best known for its use in the nearby Vento region.
The Garda Mantovano white wines are based on Trebbiano and Garganega and its
red wines are made from Merlot and Molinara. Other Lombardy region wines
include the sweet Moscato Passito from Valcalepio and the light red wines from
the Schiava and Barbera grapes in the Cellatica and Botticino region.
Dessert Wines
The Moscato di Scanzo DOCG is located west of Franciacorta
and it surrounds the town of Bergamo. The region produces sweet passito red
wines from a red Moscato grape which must be aged for at least 2 years, but may
not be aged in wood. The wines are often released in slender future
bottles.
The Wines
While studying Lombardia I tasted the following wines:
While studying Lombardia I tasted the following wines:
NV
Bellavista Cuvee Franciacorta Brut
This wine is a blend of 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Bianco and
Pinot Nero made in the metodo classico (methode champenoise) process.
This is a clear white wine, pale straw-color with very tiny bubbles. On the
nose it is clean with subtle aromas of tart lemon, lime, and a hint of chalk.
On the palate it has additional notes of yellow apples, pear, melon rind, Crème brûlée,
and hints of clamshell on the return. On entry it is fresh, lively and crisp
but on the mid palate it has a slight creaminess. It has medium+ acidity,
medium- body and has a medium length finish.
This wine sells for $34.99
at Beltramos in Menlo Park, California.
2009
Tenuta Mazzolino Noir Pinot Nero, Oltrepo Pavese DOC
This is a clear
ruby red wine with a touch of garnet at the rim and moderate viscosity. On the
nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of ripe cherries, strawberry
preserves, a hint of dried tomatoes, cinnamon candy, forest floor, and
mushrooms. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is dry with moderate
tannins, medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with a medium length finish. It
is unmistakably old world in character and yet it isn’t as funky as your
typical Burgundy. I also suspect (further research is required) that the dried
tomato aromas may be a unique trait to Italian Pinot Noir. This wine sells for $35.99
at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.
2009
Albareda Sforzato di Valtellina
This wine is made 100% Nebbiolo from the
Valtellina Superiore DOCG Sassella and Grumellothe. The grapes are harvested and
subsequently dried until the end of January. They are then pressed and
fermented in stainless steel with 20 days maceration on the skins followed by aging
for 18 months in new oak barrels and 10 months in bottle.
This is a clear red
wine, moderate intensity, ruby at the core to garnet at the rim with medium+
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of concentrated
“sweet” dried cherries, cranberries, a minute amount of tar, fresh tobacco and
mushrooms. On the palate the nose is confirmed, on entry it is surprisingly
soft and it is surprisingly silky on the mid palate but then on the finish very
refined medium+ tannins show some grip. It is dry with medium+ mouth-watering acidity,
it is medium bodied with medium+ alcohol and a moderate length finish. This is
an elegant wine with plenty of finesse; one that provokes contemplation and deserves
a lot of philosophical reflection. This wine sells for $54.99 at
Beltramos, in Menlo Park, California.
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