Sunday, August 31, 2014

Italy Unit 3 - Veneto




The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Veneto wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

The Veneto region stretches across most of the northern reaches of the Adriatic Sea, from the Po River to the Austrian border, between Trentino-Alto Adige to the west and Friuli-Venezia Guilia to the east. Along with Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto is one of three highly productive Italian regions known collectively as the Venezie named after the ancient Venetian Republic. Veneto is the 8th largest region of Italy in landmass but is the biggest DOC producer in all of Italy with white wine accounting for over half the DOC production.



Most of the vineyards are planted on the alluvial plains in the south. The region is most well known for its Amarone, Valpolicella and Soave but they also produce Bordeaux-style blends.

 

Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto



One of the most unique methods of wine production in Veneto to understand is the appassimento method used to produce Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto.



Amarone (Amarone della Valpolicella), is a rich full bodied dry red wine. The name “Amarone” is from the Italian word amaro literally means “bitter” which doesn’t describe the taste of the wine but rather distinguishes it from Recioto which is sweeter. But both wines are made using the appassimento method (elsewhere in Italy known as passito) in which fully ripened grapes are left hanging as long as possible in the vineyard to develop natural depth and character. The grapes are then carefully placed put into a specialized room with controlled humidity (60-70%) to prevent mold where they will dry anywhere from 5 days up to 6 months depending on their ripeness at harvest. This reduces the amount of liquid in the grapes and concentrates the flavors and sugars. By further metabolizing the acids within the grapes the result is a wine that is dry, very intense, concentrated, and rich with high alcohol wine yet is well balanced.



To create a Ripasso wine, the skins of the grapes are kept after pressing them during the appassimento (drying) process. Wine is then added and passed (re-passed) to the skins and left for a couple weeks to develop more flavor and characteristics from the previously dried fruit skins.



The name Recioto is derived from the local dialect word recie which refers to the grapes that resemble “ears” at the top of the cluster which usually receive the most direct sunlight and are the ripest grapes. Historically these very ripe “ears” were picked separately and used to make very rich, sweet wines. Like Amarone, these grapes are put to special drying rooms but they are not fermented to dryness. While Recioto wines are sweeter than table wines they are not as sweet as most botrytis, fortified or ice wines.



Climate
The Veneto is characterized by hot summers and cool winters. But its weather is less extreme than that of the other regions in Northeastern Italy due to being protected from the harsh northern European climate by the Alps and its proximity to the Adriatic Sea.
Soils
Most vineyards are on silty sandy soil throughout the Veneto, with influences of clay and calcareous debris.
DOCs
There are 20 DOCs in Veneto the most well known are Bardolino, Valpolicella, and Soave.
1. Arcole DOC
Established as a DOC in 2000. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc. The principle red grapes are 4 of the Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. Bianco must have a minimum of 50% Garganega, Rosso must have a minimum of 50% Merlot. Spumante must have a minimum of 50% Garganega. Vendemmia Tardiva must have a minimum of 85% Garganega. Passito must have a minimum of 50% Garganega
2. Bagnoli di Sopra or Bagnoli DOC
Established as a DOC in 1995. The  principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Marzemina Bianca (a native grape to Veneto) and Sauvignon Blanc. The principle red grapes are: Four Boreaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot plus local native Italian vaerietals Cavrara (a native grape to Calabria), Corbina, Raboso, Refosco and Turchetta (native grapes to Veneto),  (there are 2 hectares in Veneto, 1 in Puglia).
3. Bianco di Custoza DOC
Established as a DOC in 1971. Bianco consists of 10–45% Trebbiano; 20–40% Garganega; 5–30% Friulano with a maximum 30% Cortese, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, and/or Welschriesling. Spumante consists of 10–45% Trebbiano; 20–40% Garganega; 5–30% Friulano with a maximum of 30% Cortese, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, and/or Welschriesling. It may be made by Metodo Classico or the Charmat method. Passito consists of 10–45% Trebbiano; 20–40% Garganega; 5–30% Friulano with a maximum of 30% Cortese, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, and/or Welschriesling
4. Breganze DOC
Established as a DOC in 1969, the town of Breganze is located 33 miles from Treviso to the east and Verona to the west. The DOC covers Rosso and Bianco wines, and the dessert wine Torcolato. The reds include Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon plus Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and the indigenous Marzemino. The white varietals include native varietals such as Vespaiolo, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Tocai as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Rosso is made from at least 50% Merlot and Bianco is based on at least 50% Tai. Torcolato is made entirely from hand-picked Vespaiola grapes that have been lightly affected by botrytis. Before fermentation, the grapes are typically dried for 4 months in a traditional method that involves winding the bunches around twine and hanging them from the ceiling. These hanging clusters form a twisted rope which gives the wine its name as “torcolato” in local dialect means “twisted.”
5. Colli Berici DOC
Established as a DOC in 1974, the principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Garganega, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc. The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero and the Italian varietal Tai (formerly known as Tocai). Rosso. Bianco, Passito and Spumante wines must contain a minimum of 50% Garganega. Rosso must contain a minimum of 50% Merlot. Metodo Classico must contain a minimum of 50% Chardonnay. Spumante can range from Brut to Demi-sec, and Metodo Classico can range from Extra Brut to Demi-sec; 15–33 g/l (1.5–3.3%) for Rosato Metodo Classico. Metodo Classico which must spend a minimum of 15 months on the lees and a minimum of 24 months for Riserva.
6. Colli Euganei DOC
Established as a DOC in 1969. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Garganega, Glera, Manzoni Bianco, Moscato, Pinella, Pinot Bianco, and Sauvignon Blanc. The principle red grapes are Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot and a native varietal Raboso (aka., Friularo, Raboso Piave, Raboso Veronese). Bianco consists of a minimum of 30% Garganega, a minimum of 30% Glera (Serprino) and/or Sauvignon Blanc; 5–10% Moscato Bianco and/or Moscato Giallo.  Rosso must consist of 40–80% Merlot, 20–60% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Carmenère with a maximum 10% Raboso. Riserva requires a minimum aging of 24 months.
7. Garda and Garda Classico DOC
Established as a DOC in 1996. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Cortese, Friulano, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero. Italian varietals include Barbera, Corvina, Groppello (Groppello di Mocasina, Groppello di Revò, Groppello di San Stefano, Groppello Gentile), Marzemino, Sangiovese. Rosso Classico and Rosato (Chiaretto Classico) require a minimum of 30% Groppello (Gentile, Mocasina, and/or San Stefano), a minimum of 5% Barbera, Marzemino, and Sangiovese. Superiore requires a minimum of 14 months ageing. Riserva requires a minimum of minimum 2 years ageing. Spumante requires a minimum 85% Pinot Bianco, Riesling, or Sauvignon Blanc and a maximum 15% Pinot Nero. Rosé Spumante requires a minimum 30% Groppello; a minimum 5% Barbera, Marzemino, Sangiovese and a maximum of 15% Pinot Nero. Spumante wines may undergo second fermentation either in bottles or in autoclaves (sealed tanks used in the Charmat Process).
8. Lessini Durello DOC
Established as a new DOC in 2011, replacing another Lessini Durello (later Monti Lessini) DOC from 1988. The principle white grape is a local variety Durello (Durella Bianca) and there are no red grapes other than Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) which is used in making sparkling wine. Spumante requires a minimum of 85% Durello with a maximum of 15% Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Nero. Non-Riserva Spumante is fermented only in autoclaves and Riserva wines must be Metodo Classico. Minimum alcohol level is 11.0% for Spumante; 12.0% for Riserva, which must also be aged a minimum of 36 months on the lees.
9. Lison-Pramaggiore DOC
Established as a DOC in 1985, incorporating the Tocai di Lison DOC from 1971 and from it Lison was established as a separate DOCG in 2011. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Verduzzo. The principle red grapes are: Four Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Malbec, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero. Italian varietals include Refosco. Bianco must include 50–70% Friulano (locally Tai in Veneto), 30–50% Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Verduzzo Friulano.
10. Lugana DOC
Established as a DOC in 1967, it produces one white wine from Trebbiano and no red wines. Spumante (Metodo Classico or Charmat) and Vendemmia Tardiva must contain a minimum of 90% Trebbiano. Vendemmia Tardiva and Superiore require a minimum 12 months of ageing. Riserva requires minimum 24 months, including 6 months in bottle.
11. Merlara DOC
Established as a DOC in 2000. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principle red grapes are: The Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. Italian varietals include Refosco and Raboso. Bianco must contain at least 50–70% Friulano, a  maximum of 50% Chardonnay, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, and/or Welschriesling (aka Riesling Italico). Rosso must contain at least 50–70% Merlot and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Marzemino, Raboso, and/or Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso.
12. Montello e Colli Asolani DOC
Established as a DOC in 1977. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Glera, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and a local native variety Bianchetta Trevigiana. The principle red grapes are: the Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. Italian varietals include Recantina which is also grown in Calabria. Bianco must contain at least 40–70% Chardonnay with 30–60% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Glera, Manzoni Bianco, and/or Pinot Bianco. Rosso must contain at least 40–70% Cabernet Sauvignon; 30–60% Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, and/or Merlot and be aged minimum 10 months, including 6 months in barrel. Superiore must be aged for a minimum of 24 months, including 12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle. Spumante (Metodo Classico) can be made with Chardonnay or Pinot Bianco.
13. San Martino Della Battaglia DOC
Established as a DOC in 1970, it is located in both Veneto and Lombardia. The principle white grape is Friulano. Bianco and Liquoroso must contain a minimum 80% Friulano. Liquoroso is a dessert wine similar to Port, where the fermentation is blocked by the addition of alcohol to leave a percentage of sugar. It can be made by fortification of juice, partially fermented must, or wine.
14. Soave DOC
Established as a DOC in 1968. Recioto di Soave became a separate DOCG in 1998 and Soave Superiore became a separate DOCGs 2001. The principle white grape is Garganega. Bianco and Spumante require a minimum of 70% Garganega and a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di Soave and/or Chardonnay.
15. Valdadige / Etschtaler DOC
Established as a DOC in 1975. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Garganega, Müller-Thurgau, Nosiola, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principle red grapes are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero followed by Italian varietals Lagrein, Lambrusco, Schiava and Teroldego. Bianco must contain a minimum of 20% Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and/or Welschriesling and a maximum of 80% Garganega, Nosiola, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Trebbiano Toscano. Rosato must contain a minimum of 50% Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata (Enantio) and/or Schiava (Gentile, Grigia, and/or Grossa) and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lagrein, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and/or Teroldego.
16. Valpolicella DOC
Established as a DOC in 1968. The principle red grape is Corvina. Rosso must contain 45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone (proportion of Corvina must equal or exceed that of Corvinone) and 5–30% Rondinella.
17. Vicenza DOC
Established as a DOC in 2000. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Garganega, Manzoni Bianco, Moscato, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero. The primary Italian red varietal is Raboso (Friularo, Raboso Piave, Raboso Veronese). Bianco and Passito must contain a minimum of 50% Garganega. Rosso and Rosato must contain a minimum of 50% Merlot. Riserva requires a minimum of 2 years ageing, including 3 months in barrel.
18. Vini del Piave or Piave DOC
Established as a DOC in 1971. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Manzoni Bianco, Verduzzo. The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. The primary Italian red varietal is Raboso. Rosso must contain a minimum of 50% Merlot and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and/or Raboso (Piave and/or Veronese) and be aged a minimum of 4 months.
DOCGs
There are 20 DOCGs in Veneto.
1. Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Established as a DOCG in 2010. The principle red grape is Corvina. Rosso must contain 45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone and 5–30% Rondinella. After harvest, grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 14% and cannot usually be vinified until December 1. It must be aged for a minimum of 2 years. Riserva must be aged for a minimum 4 years.
2. Bardolino Superiore DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1968 and it became a DOCG in 2001. The primary white grape is Corvina. Superiore must contain 35–80% Corvina and a maximum of 20% Corvinone with 10–40% Rondinella and a maximum of 15% Molinara.
3. Colli Asolani Prosecco/ Asolo Prosecco DOCG
Established as a DOCG in 2009. The principle white grape is Glera. Bianco and Spumante Superiore must consist of a minimum of 85% Glera and a maximum of 15% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, and/or Verdiso.
4. Colli di Conegliano DOCG
Established as a DOCG in 2011. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Glera, Manzoni Bianco, and Pinot Bianco. The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and a local Italian varietal, Marzemino. Bianco must contain a minimum of 30% Manzoni Bianco, a  minimum of 30% Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay and a maximum 10% Sauvignon Blanc and/or Riesling. Rosso must contain a minimum of 10–40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and a minimum 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and a maximum of 20% Manzoni Nero and/or Refosco. It must be aged a minimum of 24 months, including 6 months in barrel and 3 months in bottle. A dessert wine known as Torchiato di Fregona must contain a minimum of 30% Glera and a minimum of 25% Boschera and 20% Verdiso. The grapes must be air-dried for at least 150 days after harvest to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 18.0% and cannot usually be pressed before February 1. It must be aged a minimum of 24 months, including 5 months in bottle. Refrontolo Passito must contain a minimum of 95% Marzemino. The grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 14.5% and be aged a minimum of 4 months, including 3 months in bottle. Riserva, must be aged a minimum of 36 months, including 12 months in barrel.

5. Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio / Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG

Formerly part of the Colli Euganei DOC, it was established as a separate DOCG in 2011. The principle white grape is Moscato and there are no are grapes. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum 95% Moscato Giallo with the remainder being other authorized aromatic white grapes.

6. Bagnoli Friularo / Friularo di Bagnoli DOCG.

Formerly part of the Bagnoli di Sopra DOC, it was established as a separate DOCG in 2011. It has no white grapes and its principle red grape is Rabosco. Rosso, Vendemmia Tardiva, and Passito must contain a minimum of 90% Raboso Piave.
7. Lison DOCG
Is located in both Veneto and Trentino-Alto Adige. It was originally part of the Tocai di Lison DOC formed in 1971 and was then incorporated into the Lison-Pramaggiore DOC in 1985. In 2011 it was established as a separate DOCG. The principle white grape is Friulano and there are no red grapes. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Friulano.
8. Montello Rosso/Montello DOCG
Formerly part of the Montello e Colli Asolani DOC it was established as a separate DOCG in 2011. There are no white grapes and the principle red grapes are 4 of the Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. Rosso must consist of 40–70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30–60% Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, and/or Merlot. It must be aged for a minimum of 18 months, including 9 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle. Superiore must be aged for a minimum of 24 months, including 12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle.
9. Piave Malanotte (Malanotte del Piave) DOCG.
Formerly part of the Piave DOC, it became a separate DOCG in 2011. The principle red grape is Raboso. Rosso must contain a minimum of 70% Raboso Piave with a maximum of 30% Raboso Veronese. The wine must contain 15–30% dried grapes, which cannot be pressed before December 8th.
10. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1969, it became a DOCG in 2009. The principle white grape is Glera. Bianco must contain a minimum 85% Glera, a maximum of 15% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, and/or Verdiso. Spumante Superiore must contain a minimum of 85% Glera and a maximum of 15% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Chardonnay, Perera, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero, and/or Verdiso.
11. Recioto di Gambellara DOCG
Formerly part of the Gambellara DOC it became a separate DOCG in 2008. The principle white grape is Garganega. Classico and Spumante must be made from 100% Garganega. After harvest, grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum potential 14% abv. Classico, must be aged for a minimum of 10 months.
12. Recicoto di Soave DOCG
Formerly part of the Soave DOC, it became a separate DOCG in 1998. The primary white grape is Garganega. Spumante and Recioto must be made from a minimum 70% Garganega and a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di Soave.
13. Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
Established as a DOC in 1968, it became a DOCG in 2010. The principle red grape is Corvina. There are no white grapes. Spumante must consist of 45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone (proportion of Corvina must equal or exceed that of Corvinone) and 5–30% Rondinella. Recioto must consist of 45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone (proportion of Corvina must equal or exceed that of Corvinone) and 5–30% Rondinella. After harvest, grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 14.0% and cannot usually be vinified until December 1.
14. Recicoto di Soave DOCG
Formerly part of the Soave DOC, it became a separate DOCG in 1998. The primary white grape is Garganega. Spumante and Recioto must be made from a minimum 70% Garganega and a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di Soave.
Key White Grape Varieties
Bianchetta Trevigiana
The name Trevigiana is derived from the province of Treviso where the grape originated. It is grown in the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Veneto wine regions. It rarely used to make varietal wines but it is frequently used to add acidity to the sparkling wine Prosecco and has also been used for vermouth production.
Durella Bianca
Also known as Durello, it is a high acid grape that grows predominantly in Veneto (93%). Along with a nearly extinct red wine grape Brambana it is a parent to the wine grape Bianchetta Trevigiana.
Garganega
Garganega is Italy’s 6th most widely planted white grape  and is also known as Gargana, Lizzana, and Ostesona.. It forms the basis of Venetian white wine Soave and is also a major portion of the blend used to make Gambellara. Garganega is a delicate white wine with pale color with soft lemon hues notable flavors of almond, lemon and a light spices.
Pinot Grigio
Pinot Grigio is closely related to Pinot Noir and is characterized by a greyish blue tinge in the grape skin. Elsewhere it is also known as Grauburgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Pinot Gris, and Ruländer. In Italy it is primarily grown in Primarily in the Northeast in Veneto (38%), Friuli–Venezia Giulia (27%), and Trentino–Alto Adige (17%).
Friulano
It is formerly known as Tocai Friulano, the “tocai” was dropped after the forming of the EU in order to be distinguished from Hungary’s Tokaji. It is also grown in Friuli–Venezia Giulia and is known as Sauvignon Vert in France. It is typically crisp and medium bodied with flavors of pear, white almond, stone fruit and Cavaillon melon carried with mineral notes.
Pinot Bianco
A French import, Pinot Bianco was introduced during the 19th century. It is planted across Northern Italy and grows well in Friuli due to the calcareous marl soils that enhance its aromas of mineral, apricot, pear and Golden Delicious apple. Typically they have a creamy structure.
Prosecco (Glera)
Glera is a white variety of grape of Italian origin, which until 2009 was mostly referred to as Prosecco. Glera is a rather neutral grape variety which is mainly cultivated for use in sparkling Italian wine styles, frizzante or spumante, from the various Prosecco DOCG and DOC areas, although still wines also exist. It is grown mainly in the Veneto region of Italy, traditionally in an area near Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, in the hills north of Treviso.
Trebbiano
Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is the quintessential ingredient in both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+  DOCs, the best known of these is Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. It is used in two DOCGs in Lazio, specifically Frascati Superiore DOCG and sweet Cannellino di Frascati DOCG where it is blended with Malvasia Bianca.
Vespaiola
The name Vespaiola comes from the Italian word “Vespa” (wasp) and is derived from the wasps that are attracted to the vines. It is used in the production of Vespaiolo Superiore in Breganze, but it is best known as part of the Torcolato, a dessert wine. Torcolato is made from Vespaiola, Friulano and Garganega grapes that have been affected by Noble Rot and then dried for 4-5 months. However, Vino Italiano (published in 2002) and David Lynch state that Torcolato is 100% Vespaiola.
Key Red Grape Varieties
Bordeaux Varietals
The most common are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenère.
Corvina
Corvina is a red wine grape noted for its lack of color and tannins and it is much more likely to appear in blends rather than as a varietal wine. When produced as a dry table wine, it has the distinctive flavor of sour cherries, high acidity with light to medium body. It is a key component of Valpolicella wines and to a lesser extent Bardolino. In their youth, Corvina-based wines are comparable to Beaujolais, while appassimento styles are richer and fuller. Synonyms include Corvina Veronese and Cruina, Cassabria.
Marzemino
Also known as Berzamino and Berzemino. It grows in Trentino–Alto Adige (34%), Lombardia (22%), and Veneto (20%). The wine is most noted for its mention in the opera Don Giovanni of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (“Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino!”). It is often used as a blending grape, most often partnering with Barbera, Groppello, Merlot or Sangiovese.
Molinara
Molinara is known for bright red fruit flavors and floral character, but it is rarely bottled as a table wine. It is usually to blended with Corvina and Rondinella to create Valpolicella and Bardolino to add acidity to the wine. This grape is infrequently blended with Merlot to produce rosé wines.
Negrara
In the Valpolicella region, Negrara is a permitted minor component in Amarone following Corvina (40-70% of the wine), Rondinella (20-40%) and Molinara (5-25%). Along with Barbera and Sangiovese, Negrara can make up to 15% of the wine provided the grapes used for the DOC wine are harvested to a yield no greater than 8 tons per hectare. However, its use is in decline. In Lombardia on the southern banks of Lake Garda it is also can be used in the red and rosé wines.
Rondinella
Rondinella is genetically related to Corvina and is somewhat neutral in flavor. It is a high yielding grape is resistant to disease. While the grape does not have high sugar levels they do dry out well for use in the production of appassimento wines and recioto blends.
Rossignola
Rossignola is a native grape variety growing in the Veneto as early as 1818. It is a permitted blending variety in several DOC wines of the Veneto including Bardolino and Valpolicella. It is a vigorous and high yielding variety that ripens late which requires winter pruning and green harvesting. The vine is also very susceptible to a number of viticultural hazards including powdery and downey mildew, Esca, sour rot and botrytis bunch rot.
Tai
Until 2007 its name was Tocai Rosso (Red Tocai) but by law it had to be renamed Tai to differentiate it from the Hungarian Tocai wine which bore the same original name. It is genetically identical to the Garnacha of Spain (Grenache in France), as are Cannonau and Vernaccia Nera, but all of them have developed in relative isolation for centuries. The primary Italian regions in which it is grown are Veneto (41%), Puglia (30%), and Marche (18%).
Key Wine Blends
Soave: A light, simple white wine from Garganega and Trebbiano
Bardolino (DOC, DOCG): A light wine made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara, and with a majority of Corvina.
Valpolicella: A blend of at least 70% Corvina and up to 30% Molinara and Rondinella
Amarone: An intense aromatic wine with a very full body made from the partially dried Corvina (45% – 95%, of which up to 50% could be substituted with Corvinone), Rondinella (5% – 30%) and up to 25% of other approved red grape varieties. In December 1990 the wine was assigned DOC status. On 4 December 2009, Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella were promoted to the status of DOCG.
Prosecco: A Frizzante made just outside of Venice, this wine is extremely popular in the Veneto region.
Notable Wine Producers
Corte Sant'Alda,
Trevisiol
Monte del Frá
Quintarelli
Necotium,
Romano dal Forno







The Wines



During my study of Veneto I tasted the following wines:



2007 Trabucchi d'Illasi Terre di San Colombano Valpolicella Superiore



This wine is a blend of 40% Corvina Veronese, 40% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and Oseleta. It is an opaque wine that is dark purple to violet with minimal rim variation and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of black cherries, dried plums, black licorice, graphite and dried blood. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is dry with medium+ to high tannins, medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with medium+ alcohol and a medium+ length mineral driven finish. This is a spectacular wine that sells for only $27 at K&L at Redwood City.



2007 Igino Accordini Le Bessole, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG




An opaque red wine, black-dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with minimal variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of macerated black berry preserves, black cherries, dried violets and roses, hints of black pepper and licorice, and damp earth. On the palate it is fruit forward and soft on entry, it is silky across the mid palate and then it grips on the finish with medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, it is full bodied with medium+ to high alcohol and has a medium length finish. A delicious wine, it sells for $43.59 at K&L in Redwood City.


1 comment:

  1. These notes were updated and expanded with more information on the DOCs and DOCGs on Sunday October 5, 2014.

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