In day 6 of Unit 3 in the Intensive Sommelier Training we studied New Zealand and South Africa, our final lesson in the New World wine regions. With limited time and a large quantity of material to cover the school is forced to consolidate certain regions into the same lesson. But, I have decided to split Day 6 into two parts and cover New Zealand in this review and South Africa in the following review.
A Breif History of New
Zealand Wine
The
first vineyards were introduced to New Zealand during colonial times in 1819. In 1851 New Zealand's oldest existing vineyard was established by
Samuel Marsden, a French Roman Catholic missionary at Mission Estate in Hawke's Bay
on the north of North
Island.
However,
due to the economics focusing on raising livestock, the influence of
prohibition and temperance movements and the people being more inclined towards
beer and spirits, the wine industry was never significant. Then in the 1970s,
following the success of California, grapes were being grown to make premium,
rather than just bulk, wine.
It was in 1973 that Montana Winery
planted the first commercial vines of the modern era in Marlborough. In 1976
Montana founder Frank Yukich decided that this largely undeveloped sheep
farming region had real potential and he included some Sauvignon Blanc. In
1984, some of the Montana Sauvignons were shown to the press in the UK. The
wines created a huge interest in the combination of variety and region. This
then led David Hohnen to found Cloudy Bay winery in 1985 which then made New
Zealand famous throughout the world for its Sauvignon Blanc.
The Climate, Laws and Grapes
of New Zealand
New
Zealand has a cool temperate climate and it is home to the southernmost and
easternmost vineyards in the world. Most of the vineyards and wine regions are
on the eastern side of the two islands.
If
the grape or region is listed on the label then 85% of the grapes must be the
stated varietal and come from the stated region. About 70% of New Zealand’s
production is white wine. The top white grapes are Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay. New Zealand is not a large producer of wine as it ranks 21st
in the world, but what it does grow is high in quality. The top red grape is
Pinot Noir and the top regions are Central Otago, Marlborough and Nelson on the
South Island and Hawke’s Bay on the North Island.
New Zealand and Screw Cap
Wines
One
the unique production features of New Zealand is the predominant use of screw
caps rather than corks for their wine. Long associated with cheap bulk wines in
California, the New Zealand wine culture managed to overcome this enological
stigma. About 3% to 5% of all bottles of wine that use
natural corks show some degree of spoilage. The culprit is trichloroanisole,
commonly known as TCA. This complex chemical comes from reactions within corks,
which involve natural molds and the chlorine bleach used in cork manufacture.
The advantage of screw caps is not only easy access to the wine but the almost
total elimination of spoilage. While some may argue that corks may have the
advantage for wines that needed to be matured and aged screw capped wines tend
to show signs of reduction, the fact is the vast majority of wines on the
market are now consumed relatively young. So, if we can just get over our
romanticism of the cork and ritual of the sommelier removing the cork Screw
Caps will increasingly become the preferred wine closure. The high-end Napa
Valley winery Plumpjack put half its $150 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 in
screw cap and found that this version sold out first. A few major American
producers, including Pepi, Bonny Doon, and Hogue, have has converted to crew
caps. After all, if screw caps are good enough for $200 bottles of Scotch, why
not for $20 bottles of wine?
New Zealand - North Island
The
North Island is home to 6 of the 10 wine regions which make up 40% of the
country’s total vineyard acreage. The highest quality Sauvignon Blanc tends to
come from the large region of Marlborough (on the south Island) where 2/3 of
the country’s acreage of this grape is planted. The top regions include
Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa/ Wellington.
Gisborne (also known as Poverty bay)
is located on the eastern tip of New Zealand and it is the second largest wine
region on the North Island. This region focuses on white wine with more than
50% of the vineyards dedicated to Chardonnay as well as sparkling wines.
Hawke’s Bay is considered to be the top
quality wine region on the North Island and they have been producing wine for
over a century. Chardonnay dominates production but they also grow a
significant amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A very important area to
know is the Gimblett Gravels district within the Hawkes Bay region. The soils and climate of
the area are contribute to quality of the grapes. The gravels are alluvial
deposits of greywacke, washed down from the mountainous spine of New Zealand by
the Ngaruroro river. The stones, gravels and coarse sands which characterize
the area drain freely, preventing the vines from becoming waterlogged and
forcing them to grow long, healthy root systems. They also provide excellent
heat retention of the clays and the high reflectivity of the pebbles help
Gimblett Gravels grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness during the growing
season.
Wairarapa (sometimes referred to as
Wellington) is on the southern tip of the North Island and its sub-district
Martinborough have a climate which is similar to the South Island. It
specializes in small high-quality Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.
Other
regions on the North Island include Northland,
Auckland and Waikato (also known as Bay of Plenty). The major focus is on
Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Te Kauwhata, in Waikato, is known
for making the regions best botrytis wines.
New Zealand - South Island
The
South Island is home to 4 recognized wine regions. Yet 60% of the country’s
production comes from this island with the most important wine regions being
Marlborough and Central Otago.
Marlborough produces almost 50% of the
country’s wine and yet the first vines were not planted there until 1973. The
country’s largest winery, Montana, is also based in Marlborough. The top wines
are Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
Central Otago is a relatively new wine
region. It has the world’s most south vineyards and it has a continental climate,
as it is the only region not located along the coastline. It shows serious
potential for producing high-quality Pinot Noir.
Two
other important regions on the South Island are Canterbury and Nelson.
Most of the production is focused on Sauvignon Blanc.
Learning Objectives of Unit 3 – Day 6: New Zealand
At
the beginning of class lectures a list of learning objectives is provided to
the students. By the end of the class, the students should have a certain
degree of understanding from their own reading and the lectures and be able to
provide the answers to list of questions. The Learning Objectives for Unit 3 -
Day 6 along with the answers are as follows.
By
the end of class, students should be able to:
(1)
Identify the key wine regions on New Zealand’s North Island and principal
grape varieties respectively.
Answer: Auckland (Bordeaux blends),
Martinborough (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir), Wellington (Pinot Noir
and Sauvignon Blanc), Hawke’s Bay (Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), Gisborne (Chardonnay),
Waikato (Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon).
(2)
Identify the key wine regions on New Zealand’s South Island and
describe their climate and principal grape varieties respectively.
Answer: Marlborough (Sauvignon
Blanc and Pinot Noir), Nelsen (Sauvignon Blanc), Canterbury (Sauvignon Blanc), Otago
(Pinot Noir).
(3) Discuss the best region for Pinot Noir (and why it’s successful
here) in New Zealand.
Answer: Central Otago, it benefits from being surrounded by mountain
ranges which increased its temperature variations both between seasons and
between night and day making the climate unusual in the typically maritime
conditions in New Zealand.
(4)
Name the optimal region for Bordeaux and Rhone varieties in New
Zealand, and describe why these varieties are successful here.
Answer: Hawkes Bay, Gimblet Gravel – the soil is well-drained, ideal
temperatures.
(5) Describe the attributes of any wines tasted
today
Answer: See below
The Wines
On
the sixth day of Unit 3 we tasted the following wines from New Zealand:
1. 2012 Nautilus Sauvignon
Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
This
is a clear white wine, low intensity straw in color, moderate intensity, star-bright,
watery at the rim, medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with pronounced
aromas of grapefruit, green apple, chives and tarragon. On the palate it has
additional notes of lemon blossom and jalapeno with a salty minerality. It is
dry with a hint of residual sugar, it has medium+ acidity, medium body and
medium+ alcohol. A classic well-balanced Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. This
wine sells for about $19.
2. 2008 Peregrine
Chardonnay, Central Otago, New Zealand
This
is a clear white wine, straw in color, medium intensity, day-bright, with
minimal rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with
moderate intense aromas of baked apples, pears, and peach with subtle notes of
popcorn, butter, and creamed corn. On the palate it has flavors of baked
apples, tasted bread, marzipan and hints of toasted coconut. It is dry with
medium+ acidity, medium+ body with an oily texture on the mid palate and a long
nutty finish. There are many California Chardonnays with this sort of profile
for under $20. This wine sells for about $31.
3. 2008 Kumeu River
Chardonnay Auckland, New Zealand
This
is a clear white wine, star-bright, straw-yellow in color, moderate intensity,
medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of
bruised apples, vanilla, toasted bread, popcorn, butter, vanilla and hazelnut. On
the palate it has flavors of lemon custard, baked apple, almonds, pencil
shavings and graphite. It is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, moderate
complexity and a medium+ length finish. Personally, I think this wine is past
its prime and should have been consumed two years ago and the fruit character just
wasn’t very appealing. It has the makings of a new world Chardonnay (butter,
popcorn etc.) without the fresh fruit. This wine sells for about $38.
4. 2011 Ata Rangi Pinot
Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand
This
is a clear red wine, ruby at the core to garnet at the rim, moderate intensity,
day bright with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate
intense aromas of fresh cherries, cranberry, raspberry, and a hint of cinnamon
and spice. On the palate it has flavors of cherries, cinnamon, cloves, dried
roses and cola. It has medium+ acidity, medium body, medium- tannins, and a
medium length finish. A really well balanced high quality Pinot Noir, an
excellent example of New Zealand but a bit pricy as this wine sells for about $40
- $50 per bottle.
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