Unit 3 – Day 4: South American Wines

In my last review I provided an overview of the top North American Wine Regions in the United States other than California (Washington, Oregon, and New York) as well as Canada and Mexico.

Ian Cauble MS and Eric Entrikin MS

On the fourth day of Unit 3 in the Intensive Sommelier Training we studied the wines of South America. Our primary instructor for the day was Eric Entrikin MS but we also had a guest appearance of Ian Cauble MS, one of the Sommeliers in the documentary SOMM, who is coming on staff at the International Culinary Center in Campbell, California.

The Wines of Argentina

Argentina is the fifth largest producer of wine in the world, second only to the United States in the New World. The climate is mostly temperate to warm. Historically Argentina has had a prominent domestic wine culture due to its European heritage and their cuisine contains a lot of beef.

The first grapes planted in Argentina were probably Criolla (known as Pais in Chile and the Mission Grape in California), a varietal spread by Spanish missionaries.

The top red grapes are Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. In France Malbec has always been a minor player. Today Malbec is rarely used in Bordeaux and in Cahor where it is the dominant grape it typically only consists of about 70% of the blend. In Argentina Malbec tends to create rich purple wines that are concentrated in dark spicy fruit flavors.

Another major red grape is Bonarda (also known as Charbono in California) which is NOT the same grape as the Italian variety known as Bonarda Piemontese (Dounce Noir) grown in Piedmont, around Turin. Bonarda was once known in France as Corbeau de Savoie but it is rarely grown in France these days.

As with almost all other New World countries, Argentina’s wine laws are intended to be unrestrictive in order to allow growers the ability to experiment and explore as to what works best so there is no restriction as to which varieties can be planted or what winemaking methods can be used. With that Freedom, Argentinian winemakers grow several grape varietals that are either French or Spanish in origin. Most premium wines are labeled by grape variety and at least 80% used must be the listed grape and at least 85% of the grapes must have been grown in the listed region.

Mendoza is the most important wine region of Argentina which is located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. It is responsible for nearly 70% of Argentina’s total wine production. It is a dry and sparse area and conditions are tempered by elevation which allows the grapes to ripen slowly developing intense and concentrate flavors. Most of the water is supplied by an ancient canal system.

Argentina’s top white grape is Torrontés which is a relative of the Malvasia family and it is typically aged in stainless steel rather than oak in order to maximize its fresh stone fruit and citrus characteristics. The country’s top region for Torrontés is in the northernmost region of Salta which is also home to the best Cabernet Sauvignon.

Just to the north of Mendoza are two notable wine regions, San Juan and La Rioja. While the region is capable of producing finer wines, most of it is dedicated to producing simple table wines for local consumption. Two other important regions that are on the rise are located south of Mendoza, Neuquén and Rio Negro. Their southern latitude produces a cool climate ideal for growing Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and producing sparkling wines.

The Wines of Chile

Although wine production has existed in Chile since the 1500s it is only recently that it has had any significant impact on the international market. Chile is the tenth largest producer of wine in the world. Although its heritage is primarily Spanish, it is France that has a major influence on it wine production

Chile is an isolated country which has protected it from viticultural problems such as Phylloxera. The country is almost 3,000 miles long but on average it is only 100 miles wide. It has a temperate to warm climate with two main geographic features, the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes Mountains to the east. Most the population resides in the central valleys of Chile away from the desert conditions to the north and the Antarctic islands to the south.

The top growing region in Chile is the Central Valley (Valle Central) which has four sub-regions: Maipo Valley, Rapel Valley, Curicó Valley and Maule Valley. The northernmost wine regions of Chile include the warmest premium region, the Aconcagua Valley and the coolest premium region, the Casablanca Valley. In the south the two most important regions are the Itata Valley and the Bio Bio Valley.

The first grapes planted in Chile was probably Pais (known as Criolla in Argentina and the Mission Grape in California), a varietal spread by Spanish missionaries. Today it makes up 20% of the country’s red wine production.

The top red grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, the “Lost grape” of Bordeaux. Phyloxera has wiped out this grape in Bordeaux. In 1995, at the request of a small group of Chilean winemakers, requested that their Merlot vines be DNA tested by researchers at U.C. Davis and it was discovered that it was actually Carmenère.

Chile has some unique wine laws. While they use similar wine laws to the United States, if a grape appears on the label of a wine is intended to be exported it must have at least 85% of the grape, 85% of the vintage and have 85% must have been derived from the stated region. If it is intended for domestic consumption only 75% is required for the grape, vintage and region.

The top white grape is Chardonnay made in a New World style with heavy use of oak and malolactic fermentation. Sauvignon Blanc is also growing in popularity and most of the plantings are in the Central Valley. Recently it was discovered that much of the grape that was thought to be Sauvignon Blanc is actually Sauvignon Vert, a lower quality clone of the grape.

The Wines of Uruguay

Uruguay is between Argentina and Brazil on the Atlantic Coast of South America. The first vines were planted about 250 years ago and its heritage and wine history is similar to Argentina. While there are over 300 wines in Uruguay most do not presently export their wines. Unlike Chile and Argentina, there are no mountains – only fertile rolling hills located between the 30^th and 35^th latitude. Most of the wine produced is near the capital city of Montevideo and focuses on single varietals such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat – the most important grape grow in Uruguay.

Learning Objectives of Unit 3 – Day 4: South American Wines

At the beginning of class lectures a list of learning objectives is provided to the students. By the end of the class, the students should have a certain degree of understanding from their own reading and the lectures and be able to provide the answers to list of questions. The Learning Objectives for Unit 3 - Day 4 along with the answers are as follows.

By the end of class, students should be able to:

(1)  Name the region Casablanca is within and what wines the area is known for

Answer: Chile

(2)  Name the region Maipo is within and what wines the area is known for

Answer: Central Valley, Chile

(3)  State what is unique about the vines in Chile

Answer: The are planted on their own native root stock because the area has never been affected by Phylloxera.

(4)  Name the obscure Bordeaux variety that is important in Chile

Answer: Carmenère

(5)  State the minimum % for varietal labeling in Chile

Answer: 85% for exporting wines, 75% for domestic consumption

(6)  Name the most important region and grape of Argentina

Answer: Mendoza, Malbec

(7)  Name the 4 sub-regions of Valle Central

Answer: Maipo Valley, Rapel Valley, Curicó Valley and Maule Valley

(8)  Name the most important grape of Uruguay  

Answer: Tannat

(9) Describe the attributes of any wines tasted today

Answer: See below

The Wines

On the fourth day of Unit 3 we tasted the following wines:

1. 2012 Max Reserva Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, Chile

This is a clear white wine, straw in color, low concentration with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate+ intense aromas of jalapeno, bell pepper, green apples, grapefruit and chives. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is dry with some residual sugar, it has medium+ acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol and a medium length finish. In many ways this wine seems like a cheap Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, but on steroids. It is the greenest white wine I have ever experienced and the chive notes almost dominate the finish leaving in your mouth the taste of onions. Unless you just want to shock your senses with an over-the-top green wine I’d have to give it a major “pass.” This wine sells for around $15 per bottle.

2. 2012 Susana Balbo, Crios, Torrontés, Mendoza, Argentina

This is a clear white wine, straw in color, low concentration with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of oranges, canned fruit, floral soap, and dry grass or hay. On the palate it has flavors of canned fruit cocktail, orange peel, and a steely minerality. It is dry with a hint of residual sugar, it has medium+ acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol and a medium+ length finish. This wine sells for around $15 per bottle.

This wine may not sound all that appealing, but out of the dozen or so Torrontés that I have experienced this is one of the better ones. This is not a big selling grape so if a store even carries Torrontés the selection tends to be very low. So, if you want a wine that pairs well with salads this will work well, especially if there is fruit in it.

3. 2011 Viña Ventisquero Carménère, Grey, Colchagua, Chile

This is an opaque red wine, it is ruby in color at the core, medium+ concentration with minimal variation at the rim, with medium+ viscosity and tears that stain the glass. On the nose it is clean, youthful, with moderate intense aromas tart cherries, bell pepper, cedar, clay and a hint of wool. On the palate it is dry with flavors of black currants, black cherries, cedar, with minor notes of dried herbs and bell pepper. It has medium+ tannins but is soft on the mid palate, medium acidity, medium+ alcohol and a medium to medium+ length moderate complex finish. If tasted blind this wine could be mistaken for a Cab Franc and it sort of seems like a Chinon on steroids. This wine sells for around $18 to $20 per bottle.

4.  2010 Familia Zuccardi, Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

This is an opaque red wine that is purple at the core, medium+ concentration to ruby with minimum rim variation and medium+ viscosity and tears that stains the glass. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of cooked blueberries, IHOP Boysenberry syrup, non-roasted coffee beans and dusty cocoa. On the palate it is fruit driven with concentrated blueberries, dark chocolate and black licorice. It is dry with some residual sugar, it has medium+ tannins, medium acidity and medium+ to high alcohol and a medium+ length finish. This wine is 100% Malbec and it sells for around $17 to $20 per bottle.

5. 2011 Amancaya Malbec Gran Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina

This is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core with minimal rim variation with medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of blueberries, black currants, cooked blackberries, black licorice, dark chocolate, damp potting soil and tobacco leaf. On the palate is fruit driven with blueberries, black currants and dark chocolate. It is dry with some residual sugar, it has medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity and medium+ to high alcohol and a medium+ length finish. This wine is a blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and I found it to be a little more complex than the previous wine, undoubtedly due to the addition of Cab Sauv. This wine sells for around $15 per bottle.

6. 2010 Cousiño Macul “Antiguas Reservas” Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile

This is an opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with moderate concentration, moderate rim variation with a hint of garnet and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean, moderately youthful with intense aromas of black currants, bay leaves, dried herbs and cocoa. On the palate it has flavors of black cherries, black currants, cocoa and a hint of oak. It is dry with some residual sugar, moderately complex with medium+ tannins, medium+ alcohol, and a medium length finish. This wine sells for around $14 per bottle.

7. 2009 Lapostolle, Clos Apalta, Rapel Valley, Chile

This is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core with medium+ concentration and minor rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it is clean with aromas of blackberry pie, black cherry, tobacco, brown sugar, cedar and vanilla. On the palate it is powerful and fruit driven with flavors of black currants, black cherries, sweet pipe tobacco, potting soil, and brown sugar. It is dry with residual sugar, medium+ acidity, medium+ to high tannins, high alcohol, moderately complex with a medium length finish.  This wine is a blend of 57% Carmenère, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 9% Merlot. It sells for around $60 to $80 per bottle. The most well known wine critics give this wine 93 to 96 points but I think it is over rated. If you want a wine this type of profile there are plenty in Lodi that sell for $20 to $30.

Observations

I have only experienced a few Sauvignon Blancs from Chile and most of them were barely drinkable. I really liked the Torrontés and I’ll probably buy some to enjoy next summer. The Carmenère was okay and fairly priced as was the Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile and the Malbecs from Argentina. The Lapostolle was unimpressive, "over the top" and over priced. I was disappointed that we didn’t experience a single wine from Uruguay as I was looking forward to trying a Tannat, so I’ll have to hunt around and see if I can find one.