The
following are my notes for studying the wines of the Puglia region
of Italy including information about the topography, climate, soils, important
red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the
region. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.
Puglia (Apulia in English), the heel of the boot of Italy, is the southern most region south of Molise and west of Campania and Baliscata. It consists of 7,469 square miles with a 518 mile coastland on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.
Whereas most regions
in Italy are defined by their mountains and hills, Puglia is dominated by
broad fertile plains and low hills.
Red and White Wines of Puglia
Much of Puglia’s viticulture consists of high-yielding
vineyards located on the plains and the grapes are destined for distillation or
to be sold off cheaply as bulk wine. Approximately 2% of the region produces
DOC level wine and most of those are found in the Salento Peninsula 11 of which
are dominated by Negromaro/Malvasia Nera blends.
While Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Bombino and Fino table wine
are produced, such as in the Salice Salentino DOC, most of the region’s
Trebbiano is used in vermouth production. The largest white wine zones are
Locorotondo DOC and Martina Franca DOC, located near the Adriatic Coast between
Bari and Brindisi, and they both have basically the same soils and produce
similar wines from Verdeca.
The three dominant red grapes for wine production are Negroamaro,
Uva di Troia and Primitivo followed by Aglianico (which is much more popular in
the neighboring Campania and Basilicata provinces), Montepulciano and Malvasia
Nera.
Climate
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Puglia has a Mediterranean climate with
hot sunny summers and mild winters. It has a climate similar to Greece,
just across the Adriatic, and the long coast has many sandy beaches. Inland,
Puglia’s rolling hills and fertile plains are warm and dry while the climate
becomes cooler in the Apennines in the north of the region. Puglia has an
average of 300 sunny days per year, and even during the wet months of winter
the rainfall is relatively low.
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Soils
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Much Puglia
consists of fertile iron-rich soils best suited for olive and cereal crops.
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IGTs
Puglia has
6 Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) zones which are: Daunia,
Murgia, Puglia, Salento, Tarantino and Valle d’Itria.
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DOCs and DOCGs
There are 28 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata
(DOC)s and 4 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s
in Puglia.
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DOCs
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1.
Aleatico
di Puglia DOC
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Established in 1973. The primary red grape varietal is Aleatico. Rosso
and Liquoroso
must consist of a minimum of 85% Aleatico
and a maximum of 15% Malvasia Nera, Negroamaro, and/or Primitivo.
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2.
Alezio
DOC
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Established in 1983. The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 80% Negroamaro and a maximum 20% Malvasia
Nera, Sangiovese, and/or Montepulciano.
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3.
Barletta DOC
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Established as
the Rosso Barletta DOC in 1977, it was expanded as the Barletta DOC in 2011.
The primary white grape varietal is Malvasia
Bianca. The primary red
grape varietal is Uva di
Troia. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 60% Malvasia Bianca.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Uva di Troia.
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4.
Brindisi
DOC
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Established in 1980. The primary
white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Fiano, Malvasia, and Sauvignon
Blanc. The primary red grape varietals
are: Malvasia
Nera, Negroamaro, Susumaniello.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 80% Chardonnay and/or Malvasia. Rosso and
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Negroamaro. Spumante may
be made by a second fermentation of Bianco, Rosato, Negroamaro Rosato, or any
of the white varietals and may undergo second fermentation either in bottles
or in autoclaves.
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5.
Cacc’e
mmitte di Lucera DOC
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Established in 1976. The primary red grape is Uva di Troia (known locally as Sumarello).
Rosso must consist of a minimum of 35–60% Uva di Troia (locally
Sumarello); 25–35% Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, and/or Sangiovese; 15–30%
Bombino Bianco, Malvasia Bianca, and/or Trebbiano.
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6. Castel del Monte DOC
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Established as
a DOC in 1971; incorporated the Rosso Canosa DOC in 2011; Castel del Monte
Bombino Nero, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva, and Castel del Monte
Rosso Riserva were established as separate DOCGs in 2011.
The primary white grape varietals are: Bombino
Bianco, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. The primary red grape varietals
are: Aglianico, Bombino
Nero, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano, Pampanuto, and Uva
di Troia. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of any proportions of Bombino
Bianco, Chardonnay, and/or Pampanuto (known locally as Pampanino).
Rosso
and Rosato may consist of a minimum of any proportions of Aglianico,
Bombino Nero, and/or Uva di Troia (known locally as Nero di Troia). Spumante
may consist of any
proportions of Bombino Bianco, Chardonnay, and/or Pampanuto.
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7. Colline Joniche Tarantine DOC
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Established in 2008. The primary white grape varietals
are: Chardonnay and
Verdeca. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Sauvignon and Primitivo.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50%
Chardonnay. Rosso must consist of a minimum of
50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Superiore
Riserva must be aged a minimum of 30 months, including 12 months in
barrel Liquoroso and Liquoroso
Dolce Naturale must
consist of a minimum of 85%
Primitivo.
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8. Copertino DOC
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Established in 1977. The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Negroamaro; maximum 30% Malvasia
Nera, Montepulciano, and/or Sangiovese (maximum 15% Sangiovese).
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9. Galatina DOC
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Established in 1997. The primary white grape varietal is Chardonnay.
The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 55%
Chardonnay. Rosso and Rosato must consist of
a minimum of 65%
Negroamaro.
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10. Gioia del Colle DOC
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Established in 1987. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbiano.
The primary red grape varietals are: Aleatico,
Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Sangiovese.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50–70%
Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 50–60%
Primitivo; 40–50% Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Negroamaro, and/or Sangiovese
(maximum 10% Malvasia Nera). Aleatico Dolce and Aleatico
Liquoroso Dolce must consist of a minimum of 85% Aleatico with a maximum of 15%
Malvasia Nera, Negroamaro, and/or Primitivo.
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11. Gravina DOC
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Established in 1984. The primary white grape varietals
are: Greco and Malvasia.
The primary red grape varietals are: Montepulciano
and Primitivo. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 50% Greco with a
minimum of 20% Malvasia (Bianca or Bianca Lunga) and a maximum of 30% Bianco
di Alessano, Chardonnay, Fiano, and/or Verdeca. Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 40% Montepulciano, a minimum of 20%
Primitivo and a maximum of 30% Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and/or
Uva di Troia Spumante must
consist of a minimum of
50% Greco and a minimum of 20% Malvasia and a maximum of 30% Bianco di Alessano,
Chardonnay, Fiano, and/or Verdeca. Passito must
consist of 100% Malvasia.
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12. Leverano DOC
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Established in 1980. The primary white grape varietals
are: Chardonnay, Fiano,
and Malvasia. The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50%
Malvasia Bianca and a maximum of 40% Vermentino.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Negroamaro; maximum 40% Malvasia
Nera di Lecce, Montepulciano, and/or Sangiovese. Passito must
consist of 50% Malvasia
Bianca and a maximum of 40% Vermentino.
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13. Lizzano DOC
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Established in 1989. The primary white grape varietals
are: Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals
are: Malvasia Nera, Negroamaro. Bianco
and Spumante must consist of a minimum of 40–60%
Trebbiano Toscano; minimum 30% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco; maximum 25%
Bianco di Alessano and/or Sauvignon Blanc. Rosso,
Rosato, and Rosato
Spumante must
consist of a minimum of 60–80% Negroamaro with a maximum of
40% Bombino Nero, Montepulciano, Pinot Nero, and/or Sangiovese with a maximum
of 10% Malvasia Nera.
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14. Locorotondo DOC
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Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietals
are: Bianco di Alessano,
Fiano, and Verdeca. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 50% Verdeca
and a minimum of 35% Bianco di Alessano. Passito
and Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 50% Verdeca; minimum 35% Bianco di
Alessano.
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15.
Martina
/ Martina Franca DOC
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Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietals
are: Bianco di Alessano
and Verdeca. Bianco and Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 50–65% Verdeca and 35–50% Bianco di Alessano and a maximum of 5% Bombino Bianco, Fiano, and/or
Malvasia Toscana.
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16. Matino DOC
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Established in 1971. The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Negroamaro and a maximum of 30%
Malvasia Nera and/or Sangiovese.
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17. Moscato di Trani DOC
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Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietal is Moscato. Dolce Naturale and Liquoroso
must consist of a minimum of
85% Moscato Bianco and a maximum of 15% other aromatic white grapes.
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18. Nardò DOC
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Established in 1987. The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 80%
Negroamaro and a maximum of 20%
Malvasia Nera di Brindisi, Malvasia Nera di Lecce, and/or Montepulciano.
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19. Negroamaro di Terra d’Otranto DOC
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Established in 2011. The primary red grape varietal is Negroamaro. Rosso, Rosato and
Spumante
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 90% Negroamaro. Spumante can range from
extra brut to extra dry.
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20. Orta Nova DOC
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Established in 1984. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Sangiovese and a maximum of 40%
Lambrusco Maestri, Montepulciano, Trebbiano, and/or Uva di Troia (maximum 10%
Lambrusco and/or Trebbiano).
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21. Ostuni DOC
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Established in 1974. The primary white grape varietals
are: Francavidda and
Impigno. The primary red grape varietal is Ottavianello.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50–85%
Impigno; 15–50% Francavidda (known locally as Francavilla) and a maximum of 10%
Bianco di Alessano and/or Verdeca. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 85%
Ottavianello and a maximum of 15% Malvasia Nera, Negroamaro, Notardomenico,
and/or Susumaniello.
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22. Primitivo di Manduria DOC
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Established as
a DOC in 1975; Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale was established as a
separate DOCG in 2011. The primary red grape varietal is
Primitivo.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 85%
Primitivo and be aged a minimum of 5 months. Riserva must be aged a
minimum of minimum 24 months, including 9 months in barrel.
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23. Rosso di Cerignola DOC
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Established in 1974. The primary red grape varietal is Uva di Troia.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of
55% Uva di Troia and 15–30% Negroamaro and a maximum of 15% Barbera, Malbec,
Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and/or Trebbiano Toscano.
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24. Salice Salentino DOC
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Established in 1976. The primary white grape varietals
are: Chardonnay, Fiano and
Pinot Bianco. The primary red grape varietals are: Aleatico and Negroamaro.
Bianco must consist of a minimum of 70% Chardonnay.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 75% Negroamaro. Spumante
may be made by a
second fermentation of Bianco, any of the white varietals, Rosato, or
Negroamaro Rosato. Dolce and Liquoroso Dolce must
consist of a minimum of
85% Aleatico and a maximum of 15% Malvasia Nera, Negroamaro, and/or
Primitivo.
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25. San Severo DOC
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Established in 1968. The primary white grape varietals
are: Bombino Bianco,
Falanghina, Malvasia, and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals
are: Merlot,
Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Uva di Troia. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 40–60%
Bombino Bianco and 40–60% Trebbiano. Rosso and
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Montepulciano and a maximum of 30% Sangiovese with a
maximum of 15% Malvasia Nera, Merlot and Uva di Troia. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 40–60% Bombino Bianco and 40–60% Trebbiano.
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26. Squinzano DOC
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Established in 1976. The primary white grape varietals
are: Chardonnay, Fiano,
Malvasia, and Sauvignon Blanc. The primary red grape varietals
are: Negroamaro,
Susumaniello. Bianco and Spumante must
consist of a minimum of 80%
Chardonnay and/or Malvasia. Rosso and
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Negroamaro.
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27. Tavoliere delle Puglie or
Tavoliere DOC
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Established in 2011. The primary red grape varietal is Uva di Troia.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 65% Uva di Troia.
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28. Terre d'Otranto DOC
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Established in 2011. The primary white grape varietals
are: Chardonnay, Fiano,
Malvasia, and Verdeca. The primary red grape varietals
are: Aleatico, Malvasia
Nera, and Primitivo. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 75%
Chardonnay. Rosso and Rosato must consist of
a minimum of 75% Malvasia
Nera (di Basilicata, di Brindisi, and/or di Lecce), Negroamaro, and/or
Primitivo. Spumante must
consist of a minimum of 75%
Chardonnay. Spumante
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Negroamaro.
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DOCGs
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1. Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale
DOCG
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Formerly part
of the Primitivo di Manduria DOC; established as a separate DOCG in 2011.
The primary red grape varietal is Primitivo.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 100% Primitivo.
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2.
Castel
del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG
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Formerly part
of the Castel del Monte DOC; established as a separate DOCG in 2011.
The primary red grape varietal is Bombino
Nero. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 90% Bombino Nero.
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3.
Castel
del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG
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Formerly part
of the Castel del Monte DOC; established as a separate DOCG in 2011.
The primary red grape varietal is Uva
di Troia. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 90% Uva di Troia.
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4.
Castel
del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG
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Formerly part
of the Castel del Monte DOC; established as a separate DOCG in 2011.
The primary red grape varietal is Uva
di Troia. Riserva
must consist of a minimum of 65% Uva di Troia (locally Nero di Troia).
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Key White Grape Varieties
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French Varietals
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Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc
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Bianco di Alessano
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Also known as Acchiappapalmento,
Bianco di Lessame, Bianco di Valdigna and Verdurino. It is identical to the
Luvarello grape variety in Calabria. It is a native varietal to Puglia but is
now being grown in Australia. It is often blended with Verdeca
in the Gravina, Locorotondo, and Ostuni DOCs. It is known for its
ability to retain acidity in hot conditions. The grape bunches are
conical-cylindrical with round berries and it ripens in late September to
early October.
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Bombino Bianco
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Valued more for
its generous yields than its aromatic qualities, it has a few nicknames such
as Straccia Cambiale and Pagadebit (“the debt payer”) in
reference to its reliably high yields. When produced in mass quantities it
tends to create fairly neutral characterless wines. But even when the vines
are carefully manicured and yields are lowered it remains a basic inexpensive
quaffable wine with subtle aromas and flavors of green
apple, pear, grapefruit and flower with medium acidity and medium body.
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Fiano
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Also known as
Fiore, Mendillo and Latino, it was brought back from near extinction by Antonio
Mastroberadino of Campania with his first vintage in 1945 and it is now being
cultivated in Marche, Basilicata and Sicily. The vine produces small pyramid
shaped compact bunches with yellow-green oval shaped berries with thick
skins. Fiano tends to have aromas and flavors of tropical fruit such as
pineapple with nutty, floral, honeyed notes and spice. It can develop a
sweetness that makes it extremely attractive to bees which is why some people
thought it was the grape referred to as Vitis Apiana (“the vine
beloved of bees”) by Pliny the Elder (23 AD – August 25, 79 AD) though most today think that it was
Moscato. Fiano is best known for its dry wines but it is also made into passito dessert wines that are
luscious and textured, developing dried fruit flavors of fig and prune.
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Francavidda
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Also known as
Francavilla, after the small town near Brindisi named Francavilla Fontana, It
has medium-large, pyramidal-cylindrical clusters with midsized berries with
thick round green skin. It is often blended with a rare local variety Impigno
in the Ostuni DOC. The wines are generally described as being light, fresh
and fairly simply drinking wines that don’t improve with age but pair well
with vegetable dishes.
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Impigno
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A very rare
grape, the name is derived from the name of the farmer who planted it in
Ostuni between 1904-1905. It is a natural cross between Bombino Bianco and Quagliano
(a local variety of Piedmont). It is primarily found in the Ostuni DOC. It
tends to have medium sized loosely packed and “winged” bunches with green
small oval green berries. It is frequently blended with Francavidda rather
bottled as a variety wine.
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Malvasia Bianca
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Also known as Malmsey,
Malvasier, Malvazia, Monemvasia.
It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been
commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years.
Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia.
It is grown all over Italy.
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Pampanuto
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Also known as La Pampanuta, Pampanino, Pampanuta,
Pampanuto di Terlizzi and Rizzulo but it is unrelated to the Pamanaro grape
of Lazio. It typically ahs medium-sized conical shaped bunches with round
green berries. It is primarily used as a blending variety, to reduce the
acidity in the wine made from a higher acid grape variety such as Bambino
Bianco. It is used in the wines of the Gioia del Colle DOC in white wines
that are primarily composed of 50-70% Trebbiano Toscano.
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Pinot Bianco
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Also known as Pinot
Blanc in France and Weissburgunder in Germany. It is a mutation of Pinot
Grigio (which is a mutation of Pinot Noir) and it tends to have more aromas
and flavors of green apples, white flower, and beeswax with more floral,
steely and minerality notes than Pinot Grigio. It is more common in Friuli
Venezia Giulia and Alto Adige.
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Verdeca
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it is one of the main grapes in the wines of Locorotondo
DOC and Martina Franca DOC. The grape ripens very late and it tends have
green, vegetal notes with a flinty minerality and fairly high acidity.
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Vermentino
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Also grown in
Liguria with it is known as Pigato which means “spotted” from the appearance
of the ripe grapes. It is also known as Favorita in Piedmont and Rolle
in Provence, France. It tends to have high acidity and aromas of peach, lemon
peel, dried herbs and a saline minerality.
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Key Red Grape Varieties
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French Varietals
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Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero).
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Aglianico
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Pronounced “ahl-YAH-nee-koe”
but it is also known as Agliatica, Ellenico, Ellanico, Gnanico, and Uva Nera.
It is primarily grown in the Basilicata and Campania regions of Italy.
Structurally it is similar to Nebbiolo giving it the nickname “the Barolo of
the South.” It produces wines with high tannins, high levels of acidity, and
full-body with musky berry flavors.
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Aleatico
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It is used in a variety of styles including dry red, rosé
and sweet passito wines. It is
planted in several Italian regions, including Lazio (Aleatico di Gradoli),
Marche (Pergola) and Puglia (Aleatico di Puglia) but it is most well-known on
the island of Elba off the coast of Tuscany, in the Elba Aleatico Passito
DOCG. Aleatico has very high sugar content so it produces strong, high
alcohol wines even without fortification. It has medium to large berries
growing in loose clusters and grows well on plains as well as hills and in a
multitude of soil types. It is a consistent producer and is not overly prone
to mildews, rots or other afflictions unless heavily shaded. But it prefers
warm to hot weather, which is typical for a Southern Italian wine. Aleatico
grapes are blue-black in color with a thin skin and contain moderate amounts
of juice.
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Bombino Nero
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There are two theories about Bombino Nero's interesting
name. One suggests that it relates to the variety’s bunches, which look like
a young child (bombino in the Puglian dialect) with outstretched
arms. The second, perhaps more plausible, is that bombino means
“little bomb” (i.e. hand-grenade), again in reference to the variety's dense
bunches. It is a black-skinned
mutation of the white wine grape Bombino Bianco. Bombino Nero grapes are late
ripen due to their high levels of phenolics, particularly the anthocyanins
that given them their intense coloration. This makes it particularly useful
in blends with Montepulciano, Uva di Troia and Negroamaro for Rosato
(rosé) wines in Puglia's Lizzano and Castel del Monte DOCs. They are rarely
used to produced varietal wines, except for in the Castel del Monte Bombino
Nero DOCG.
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Malvasia Nera
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Also known as Malvasia di Casorzo and Malvasia di
Schierano. It is darker-skinned member of the greater Malvasia family. It is
a thin-skinned variety that is very aromatic and can be used to produce dry
red, rosé, sparkling and passito style wines. It is also a Teinturier
grape with juice that ranges in color from light to a deep ruby-red
with aromas of plums and cherries.
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Montepulciano
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Also known as Cordisco, Morellone, Primaticcio, Uva
Abruzzo, and Violone The variety was named after the Tuscan parish of
Montepulciano, but is no longer used to make wines in Tuscany. Nor should it
be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is made from mostly
Sangiovese. It tends to have moderate tannins and medium tannins making it
drinkable in its youth. It can age well but will not gain any more
complexity. Abruzzo's finest examples of Montepulciano come from the region's
north, in the Colline Teramane foothills.
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Negroamaro
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It is pronounced “Nay
grow ah MAH row” and is also
known as Nigramaro and Negro Amaro. There
are two theories as to the origin of Negroamaro’s name: The first is that it
is a combination of negro which means "black" and amaro which means means
"bitter" derived from the grape’s dark colors and savory flavors.
The second theory is that it is of Latin-Greek origin so that its name means
“dark black”. Negroamaro wines are a deep purple in color, characterized as
bold, intense and full-bodied. Typically aromas include plum, cherry, and
blackberry and at times it may have earth and medicinal notes.
Negroamaro may be at its best when blended with Malvasia Nera,
Sangiovese, or Montepulciano. Blending with these varieties can add
tannins, resulting in a wine with more structure and age worthiness.
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Notardomenico / Notar Domenico
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Notardomenico
is an ancient an indigenous variety grown around Brindisi since ancient times, but it is sparsely cultivated. It has small medium-small bunches with round but not
uniform reddish-violet berries and it often used to make Rosato. It tends to produce wines with high acidity and low
alcohol with delicate flavors. It is often blended with Ottavianello, another local variety. It is found in the wines of the Ostuni DOC and Murgia,
Puglia, Salento, Tarantino and Valle d'Itria IGTs.
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Ottavianello / Ostuni
Ottavianello
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Also known as Cinsaut (Cinsault) in
the Southern Rhone and Languedoc-Roussillon in France. Its primary home in Puglia is in the very small Ostuni Ottavianello DOC.
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Primitivo
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Primitivo and
its California relative Zinfandel are clones of a Croatian grape called
Crljenak. The history of this grape in Italy dates back at least to the 17th
century when the Benedictine monks named the varietal “Primitivo” which
translates roughly as “early one” and it was named as such because of it is
an early ripening grape in this zone. It tends to produce wines that are
deeply colored, with aromas of flavors of cherry, jam, wild blackberry,
raspberry clove and spice. Structurally it tends to have high tannins,
moderate acidity, be full bodied and have high alcohol.
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Sangiovese
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Sangiovese derives its name from the
Latin Sanguis
Jovis, “the blood of Jove and it has
several synonyms. In Chianti Classico it may be referred to as Sangiovetto,
in Montalcino it is called Brunello, in
Montepulciano it is called Prugnello Gentile and along the coast in Maremma it is
called Morellino.
"Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones
which are broadly classified as Sangiovese
Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. The Sangiovese
Grosso family includes the clones growing in the Brunello region as well as
the clones known as Prugnolo
Gentileand Sangiovese di
Lamole that was grown in
the Greve in Chianti region. Sangiovese wines in Tuscany tend to be light in
color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are
naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When
aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often
Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new
barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
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Susumaniello
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The name means “the load of the donkey,” because it is a
prolific yielder as a young vine. This local variety is found only in Puglia
and it is primarily cultivated in the area of central Murgia. It is primarily
used as a blending grape in the production of both red and rosé wines such as
the Negroamaro-based Brindisi Rosso and Brindisi Rosato and the
Ottavianello-based Ostuni Ottavianello. However, I did come across a few
bottlings online such as Tenute Rubino’s “Torre Testa” Salento IGT which is 100% Susumaniello. DNA research indicates that it is a crossing of
Sangiovese and another yet-to-be identified grape variety.
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Uva di Troia
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Also known as Nero
di Troia, Sumarello, Uva di Canosa, Uva di Barletta, Troiano, Tranese, and Uva della
Marina. It is one of the most important grapes in Puglia along with primarily
Negroamaro and Primitivo and it is primarily grown in the areas around Andria
and Barletta, and in the Province of Bari. The vine is fairly and produces
compact, pyramid shaped “winged” clusters of violet colored grapes that ripen
mid-season. It is adaptable to a variety of soils and thrives well in the
heat. It may be bottled as a variety wine or blended with grapes such as
Bombino Nero, Montepulciano or Sangiovese. It plays a key role in Castel del
Monte DOC in northern Puglia. Structurally Nero di Troia can be very tannic,
and the anthocyanin concentration is high.
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The Wines
While studying Puglia
I tasted the following wines:
2003 Conti Zecca Terra Riserva, Leverano
DOC
This wine is a
blend of 70% Negroamaro and 30% Aglianico. It is a clear red wine,
ruby in color at the core to garnet with slight brick tint around the edge with
medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dried
cherries, pomegranate, dark chocolate, tobacco, black tea and a hint of dried
herbs. On the palate it has flavors of dried and fresh sweet/sour cherries with
additional notes of tobacco and herbs. It is dry with moderate tannins, medium+
acidity, medium body and a medium+ length finish of tobacco and dried stems. This wine sells for $37.99 at Enoteca
Vino Nostro in San Francisco.
2005
Conti Zecca Nero Rosso Salento IGT
This wine is a
blend of 70% Negroamaro and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a clear red
wine, ruby in color at the core to garnet with slight brick tint around the
edge with medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of dried
plums, dried cherries, dried tobacco, licorice, dried earth. On the palate it tastes very
Bordeaux-like with red currants and tobacco with medium tannins, medium acidity
and a length tobacco and cherry finish. This wine sells for $39.99 at Enoteca Vino
Nostro in San Francisco.
2008
Carvinea Frauma, Rosso Salento IGT
This wine is a
blend of 60% Aglianico and 40% Petite Verdot. This is an opaque wine,
dark purple/black at the core with minimal rim variation, and medium+ viscosity
and slightly staining tears. On the nose it is clean with medium- intense
aromas of fresh blackberries, black currants, black cherries, blueberries,
violets, beef jerky and teriyaki, with hints of spice. On the palate it is bone dry with medium+
tannins, medium+ acidity, medium+ body and a long finish. This wine sells for $28.99 at Enoteca
Vino Nostro in San Francisco.