Lately I have been exploring more old
world Italian varietals and in a previous post I reviewed a 2011 Rosso diMontalcino
and discussed the difference between a Rosso and a Brunello. Since then I
enjoyed a Brunello, but of an older vintage.
Like Rosso, all Brunello di Montalcino wines are made 100% from Sangiovese grapes grown on the slopes
around Montalcino – a classic Tuscan hilltop village 20 miles south of Siena.
The word Brunello translates
roughly as “little dark one”, and is the local vernacular name for Sangiovese
Grosso, the large-berried form of Sangiovese which grows in the area. As
mentioned in the previous post, the primary difference from a Rosso is that a
Brunello spends more time in oak and in bottle before being released.
The Winery and Vineyard
This wine is from the Tenuta Poggio Il Castellare (Poggio
il Castellare Estate), the historical roots of the area of Montalcino go all
the way back to Etruscan times before the dawn
of the Roman Empire. The
vineyards of the estate stretch on the sunny slopes overlooking the picturesque
landscapes of the Val d’Orcia on one side, of Mount Amiata on another side and,
finally, from the Pian del Bosso vineyard where you can see the Abbazia di
Sant’Antimo (Sant’Antimo Abbey).
Poggio Castellare consists of 19.76 acres (8 hectares) of land covered with vines. This
area called Colline dei
Vigneti at the
foot of Monte Castellare is one of the most prestigious areas for the production
of Brunello due to the characteristics of the soil and the micro-climate. The
soil created in different geological eras, with debris from floods that
transported it here. It contains a variety of minerals such as limestone mixed
with calcareous soils created from schists of marl as well some clay.
The region has a Mediterranean climate with the rains concentrated in the
spring months and an almost total absence of fog and the presence of wind during
the growing stage of the vines. These conditions provide an ideal climate for
gradual and complete ripening of the grapes.
The Wine
The 2006 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di
Montalcino is ruby red at the core with a tint of garnet with a touch of brick
red at the rim showing signs of age. On the nose it has displays aromas
dusty cherries, cinnamon stick, a touch of black pepper, old leather, and dried
tobacco leaves. On the palate it has an immediate impact of dried cherries,
earth and tobacco that remain persistent through the mid-palate and a long
finish. It has medium refined tannins, medium to medium+ mouth-watering acidity
and a medium body. If I tasted this blind it is an unmistakable Brunello, but
because of the color and the dominating earthy notes I probably would have
guessed that it was between a 2002-2004 vintage. I have had many 2006 vintages
that seemed much more youthful than this wine.
If you are accustom to and prefer a more fresh
fruit California Sangiovese (such as from Luna Vineyards) this wine may
not be appealing to you. But if you can appreciate an old world Sangiovese,
then you’ll love this wine as it has lots of character and a persistent flavor
profile from beginning to end. The most well-known and popular wine critics
have rated this wine anywhere from 91-94 points. I paid $43 for this wine at a
local wine shop but I have seen it for sale from anywhere from $39-$60 per
bottle.
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