In
my previous review I introduced Bordeaux and provided some historical
background, a summary of the climate and soils, an overview of the
classification system, and a listing of the Bordeaux grape varietals. I then
reviewed the 9 Bordeaux red wines that we tasted in Unit 2 Day 7 at the
Intensive Sommelier Training at the International Culinary Center.
In
this review I will provide some summary information of the important regions of
the Left and Right Banks of Bordeaux. I will then discuss the white wines of
Bordeaux, cover the learning objectives and then review 1 Sancerre, 5 Bordeaux dry
white wines and 2 dessert wines.
The Left Bank of Bordeaux
The
Left Bank is a peninsula located to the south-west of the Gironde estuary and
the Garonne River and it consists of the soil that has eroded and washed down
form the Pyrenees Mountains. The result is a soil that consists mostly of
gravel and sand that retains heat and drains very well. Its proximity to the
Atlantic Ocean causes the climate to be slightly cooler than the Merlot
dominant Right Bank and lends itself to being more favorable to Cabernet
Sauvignon. The following are the major regions of the Left Bank:
The
Médoc AOC stretches nearly 50
miles along the Gironde estuary and is divided into two major areas: the Bas-Médoc (“Lower Médoc”) to the north and Haut-Médoc (“Upper Médoc”) to the south. Most of the wines labeled “Appellation
Médoc Controlée” are made by château in the Bas-Médoc,
the Haut-Médoc is a more important region.
The
Haut-Médoc is a sub-region of the larger Médoc AOC and it
stretches north to the city of Bordeaux and the Gironde for approximately 15
miles. The soil conditions are more favorable than the rest of Médoc so the
wines labeled “Appellation Haut-Médoc Controlée”
tend to be of higher quality. There are four important communes in the Haut-Médoc: Margaux, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe and Saint-Julien. Two lesser communes include Listrac
and Moulis.
Margaux is the southernmost of the
four important Médoc AOCs and its
wines are Cabernet Sauvignon based. The most important estate the Premier Cru estate, Château Margaux. In comparison to other Bordeaux AOCs, Margaux
tend to be softer, more elegant with intense aromas so they are the most “New
World” of Bordeaux.
Pauillac is probably the most important appellation in
Bordeaux. It is located between Saint-Julien to the south and Saint-Estèphe to the north. Of the five recognized
Premier Cru estates on the Left Bank three of them are located in Pauillac: Château Latour,
Château Lafite, and Château Lafite-Rothschild.
Saint-Estèphe is the northernmost of the important
communes of the Haut-Médoc, located just
north of Pauillac.
It is lesser known than the other appellations and has far fewer classified
growth estates. Yet it also produces some of the most powerful, tannic and
age-worth wines in Bordeaux.
Saint-Julien is located just south of Pauillac
and is the smallest of the important communes of the Haut-Médoc and yet it is home to some of the most
important classified growth estates in Bordeaux. Like other Left Bank regions,
Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominate grape in the wines.
Unlike
Médoc and Haut-Médoc, Graves has ideal terroir
for producing top quality red and
white wines. It is located just south of the city of Bordeaux and it is named
for its gravely soil.
In
the 1980s the northern portion of Graves was granted its own unique AOC
designation, Pessac-Léognan, and this is generally considered to be the
source for the best wines in the region. However, they also tend to be a bit
softer as they employ more Merlot in their wines. It is also home to the only Premier Cru located outside of the Haut-Médoc, which is Château Haut-Brion.
The Right Bank of Bordeaux
The
Right Bank is further inland located east and south of the Gironde estuary and
the Dordogne River. The soils contain far more clay which holds on to moisture
and provides more fertile conditions for grapevines. Most of the top regions
are located in the eastern side just north of the Dordogne River.
Both
quality red and white wines are produced but mostly form lesser-known AOC
appellations such as Côtes de Blaye and Côtes de Bourg. Only red wines based on Merlot are produced in the
eastern regions of Canon-Fronsac, Fronsac and Lalande-de-Pomerol.
The
heart of the Right Bank is made up of two very important regions where some of
the best Merlot in the world is produced: Pomerol and Saint-Emilion.
Pomerol is the smallest of the
top-quality appellations in Bordeaux. Consequently with such limited production
these have also become extremely expensive. The vast majority of the vineyards
are planted to Merlot but there is also a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc that is used for blending. The wines from this region are
considered to be softer and less tannin than those of the Right Bank with more
lush fruit. Although it has never been classified, Château Pétrus is considered to be the
top quality estate and recent vintages sell for as much as $1,700 (2011,
pre-sale) and $4,000 (2010).
Saint-Émilion is the largest and one of the oldest top-quality
wine-producing regions of Bordeaux as it produces are more high-end red wines
than any other. Saint-Émilion is made mostly of Merlot.
This
region was not included in the 1855 Classification so a century later in 1955
they organized their own system with estates in the top classification labeling
their wine “Appellation Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Contrôlée.” Unlike the 1855
classification which has for the most part become static, this list is updated
every 10 years or so. Of these the top two estates are Château Ausone and
Château Cheval Blanc which were labeled Premier
Grand Cru Classé A.
But, this classification system has not been without its own
litigious battles….
In
2006 there was a revision of the classifications which then resulted in appeals
in the courts and the entire system became bogged down in legal battles.
In
2012 another classification was made with tasters and inspectors who would
hopefully be more objective as they would not have any direct financial
interest in the proceedings. This seven-person commission was outsourced by
INAO (Institut National de l'origine Et de la Qualité previously
known as the Institut National des
Appellations d'Origine) and they had involvement in the St.-Emilion Wine
Syndicate and Bordeaux wine trade. They were all wine professionals from
Burgundy, the Rhône Valley, Champagne, the Loire Valley and Provence. There is
no longer a fixed number of châteaus that can be classified, and the new
rankings elevated Château Pavie and Château Angélus to Premier Classe A. Among new Premiers Grands Crus were Larcis
Ducasse, Canon-la-Gaffelière and garagiste
producers Valandraud and La Mondotte, while Château Magdelaine was omitted from
the list as it will be merged with Château Bélair-Monange.
Just
recently, in January 2013, Château La Tour du Pin Figeac, Château
Croque-Michotte and Château Corbin-Michotte filed complaints with a Bordeaux
administrative tribunal, claiming there were procedural errors in the selection
process. Château La Tour du Pin Figeac, had previously challenged its demotion
in the disputed 2006 classification without being reinstated in 2012, while
Château Croque-Michotte was refused promotion from Grand cru to Grand cru classé
and Château Corbin-Michotte had been demoted from Grand cru classé.
Needless
to say, these legal battles will probably continue indefinitely.
Entre-Deux-Mers translates to “between the
seas” although the region is actually between two rivers. It is a large
appellation that dominates an island that is formed between the Dordogne and
Garonne Rovers where they feed in the Gironde. The region produces a significant
amount of Merlot that is used to produce Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur wines. Wines that are labeled “Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers Contrôlée” are dry white wines produced from Sauvignon Blanc and most are
considered to be of average quality.
Bordeaux White Wines
Bordeaux
White Wines are predominantly, and exclusively in the case of the sweet
Sauternes, made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Typical blends
are usually 80% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc. As with the reds, white Bordeaux
wines are usually blends, most commonly of Sémillon and a smaller proportion of
Sauvignon Blanc. Other permitted grape varieties are Ugni Blanc, Colombard,
Merlot Blanc, Ondec, and Mauzac.
In
the late 1960s Sémillon was the most planted grape in Bordeaux. Since then it
has been in constant decline although it still is the most common of Bordeaux’s
white grapes. Sauvignon Blanc's popularity on the other hand has been rising,
overtaking Ugni Blanc as the second most planted white Bordeaux grape in the
late 1980s and now being grown in an area more than half the size of that of
the lower yielding Sémillon.
Bordeaux Dessert Wines
On
both sides of the Garonne River, south of Graves and the city of Bordeaux, is a
collection of wineries that focus on producing botrytised dessert wines. Close
proximity to the river and the cooler temperatures provide ideal conditions
necessary for grapes to become infected with a favorable form of botrytis (a humidity-loving fruit fungus that causes
grapes to shrivel and dehydrate, concentrating flavors) known as “Noble Rot.” The
thin skin and rich character of the Sémillon grape lends itself
to being the ideal for producing sweet wines made botrytis-infected grapes.
Noteworthy
wines are produced in Barsac, Cadillac, Loupiac and Sante-Croiz-du-Mont.
However the top wines come from Sauternes, but these wines are only made in the
very best vintages and in some years none is made at all.
 |
| Château d’Yquem |
Several estates in
Sauternes were included in the Classification of 1855 but only one received its
own special status – Château d’Yquem which is designated Premier Grand Cru or “first great growth.”
Learning Objectives of Unit
2 - Day 8:
Bordeaux
White Wines
At
the beginning of class lectures a list of learning objectives is provided to
the students. By the end of the class, the students should have a certain
degree of understanding from their own reading and the lectures and be able to
provide the answers to list of questions. Learning Objectives for Unit 2 - Day 8
along with the answers are as follows.
By
the end of class, students should be able to:
(1)
Name three sub-regions of Bordeaux
Answer: Left Bank, Right Bank,
Entre-Deux-Mers
(2)
Describe the important white grapes of Bordeaux
Answer: Sauvignon Blanc,
Sauvignon Gris, and Semillon
(3)
Name the best sub-region of Graves
Answer: Pessac-Léognan
(4)
Offer glasses of sweet wine from 2 AOCs in Bordeaux
Answer: Graves Supérieures, Barsac
(5)
Name the only Premier Grand Cru of Sauternes
Answer: Château d’Yquem
(6)
Discuss the viticultural key to the best sweet wines of Bordeaux
Answer: Botrytis “Noble Rot”
(7)
Inform your guest of the AOC used when dry wines are made in Sauternes
Answer: Pessac-Léognan
(8)
Name 2 Cru Classé estates of Graves for white wines
Answer: Château Carbonnieux,
Léognan; Château Haut-Brion, Pessac
(9)
Names 4 districts of Bordeaux that have developed a classification system
Answer: Médoc (1855),
Graves (1959), Sauternes (1855) and St Emilion (2012)
(10)
Sub-region AOC of Graves which contains Graves estates
Answer: Entre-Deux-Mers
(11)
Identify the classification and region for Château d’Yquem
Answer: Château d’Yquem is in Graves
region and is designated Premier Grand
Cru or “first great growth.”
(12)
Identify classified estates of Sauternes besides Château d’Yquem
Answer: Fargues, Bommes, Preignac,
and Barsac.
(13)
Identify 2 AOCs within Graves for botrytis wines exclusively
Answer: Sauternes AOC and Barsac
AOC
(14)
Names the AOC which must be used for dry wine produced within Sauternes
Answer: Bordeaux AOC
(15)
Identify 2 Cru Classé estates of Graves for
white wines
Answer: Château Bouscaut, Château Haut-Bailly
(16)
Describe the attributes of any wine we tasted today
Answer: See below:
The Wines
On
the eighth day of Unit 2 we tasted the following white wines:
1. 2012 Domaine Daulny,
Sancere
This
first wine is obviously not from
Bordeaux. We started with this wine to establish a basis for comparison since
both the Loire and Bordeaux produce Sauvignon Blanc.
This
is a clear white wine, brilliant, medium concentration with moderate viscosity.
On the nose it is youthful with moderate+ aromas of grapefruit, lime, green
apples, jalapeno, a touch of grass and a hint of chalk. On the palate this wine
is dry with flavors of granny smith apples, grapefruit, and a distinctive
salinity. It has medium+ acidity, medium alcohol, moderate complexity and a
medium+ length finish. This wine sells for about $15 - $20.
2. 2012 Château Lestrille, Entre-Deux-Mers
This
wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. This is a clear white wine, star bright, low
concentration, and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean, youthful with
moderate intense aromas of pineapple, passion fruit, lemons blossoms, and dried
herbs. On the palate it is dry with flavors of tangerines, peaches, and melon
with medium to medium+ acidity, medium+ body with a full round mouth feel, medium+
alcohol and a medium length finish. This wine sells for about $12.
3. 2011 Clos Floridène, Graves & Pessac-Léognan
This
wine is made
of 56% Sémillon, 43% Sauvignon and 1% Muscadelle. This is a clear
white wine, yellow-gold with medium concentration, and medium viscosity. On the
nose it is clean, with moderate intense aromas of dried peaches, cheese rind,
and pistachios. On the palate it is dry with flavors of oxidized apples, lemon
custard, green tea, celery, bread dough, fennel and river rocks with medium+
acidity, medium body, medium+ length finish. This wine sells for about $32.
4. 2007 Château de Fieuzal Blanc, Pessac-Léognan
Other
than the fact that it is a white Bordeaux blend, I could not find any
information as to what grapes went into this bottle. But these wines are typically
made from Sémillon,
Sauvignon Blanc, and a small amount of Muscadelle. This is a clear white wine,
yellow-gold in color, medium concentration, medium concentration. On the nose
it is clean, with moderate aromas of dried peaches, dried pineapple, a hint of
tobacco or autumn leaves, pistachios, pencil shavings, graphite, and dried
vanilla. On the palate it is dry with flavors of dried pineapples, lemon meringue, cooked oranges with medium+
acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol and a medium+ length finish. This was my
favorite dry wine in the line-up and it sells for about $52 - $60.
5. 2007 Château Carbonnieux Blanc, Pessac-Léognan
I
could not find any information as to what grapes went into this bottle but
these wines are typically made 2/3 Sauvignon Blanc and 1/3 from Sémillon. The
wine is a white clear white wine, star-bright straw-yellow at the core, medium
concentration, with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with subtle
aromas of lemon, a scent of floral perfume, vanilla, honey and a hit of petrol.
On the palate it has flavors of bruised apples, candied ginger, dried peaches, graham
crackers and a nutty finish. It has medium+ acidity, medium body, medium+
alcohol, and a medium+ length finish. This wine sells for about $44.
6. 2010 Château Mouton-Rothschild Aile d’Argent, Medoc Blanc
This
wine is produced by Château Mouton-Rothschild and it comes form
4 ha of vines planted in the 1980s that consists of about 55% Sémillon, 40%
Sauvignon Blanc, and the rest is Muscadelle. It is aged for about 9 months in
50% new oak. The wine is a white clear
white wine, star-bright gold at the core to yellow at the rim with medium
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of bruised
apples, autumn leaves, dried peach and a hint of petrol. On the palate it has
flavors of oxidized apples, dried pears, pistachios, and a hint of marshmallows
and popcorn. It is dry with medium body, medium+ alcohol, and a medium+ length
finish. This wine sells for about $70.
7. 2005 Château Ramond
Lafon, Sauternes
Chateau
Raymond Lafon was founded in 1850 by Raymond Lafon, who left his mark on the
estate that still bears his name. The estate passed to Louis Pontallier, a
nephew of Lafon’s, who was the grandfather of Paul Pontallier, the director of
Chateau Margaux. Pontallier sold the chateau and vineyards in 1952 to the
Bourdier family who 20 years later sold the property to the current owners,
Pierre Meslier who previously served as the managing director of Chateau
d’Yquem.
This
small Bordeaux wine property of Raymond Lafon is located next door to the
vineyards of Chateau d’Yquem and very close to Chateau Suduiraut. Raymond Lafon
Sauternes are produced in the exact fashion suing the same blends as at Chateau
d’Yquem. The same blends are used at both properties as well. The yields are
similar as well at close to 8 hectoliers per hectare from a 18 hectare (45
acres) Sauternes estate that is planted
to 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc with vines that average 35
years of age. They are planted to 6,666 plants per hectare, which is
the same density that you see at Chateau de Fargues. During harvest, each
grape in the vineyard is individually picked, in 3 to 10 successive
pickings. After fermentation the wine spends 3 years in 100%
new French oak barrels. Chateau Raymond Lafon has an annual production
that averages 20,000 bottles of Sauternes.[1]
This
wine is clear, gold at the core with minor rim variation and high viscosity. On
the nose it is clean with aromas of candied apricots, quince, sweet corn, honey,
and saffron. On the palate it is sweet and luscious with high alcohol and the silky-oily
texture and flavor of canned peach syrup. Yet it has medium+ acidity so it ends
with a prolonged clean finish with lingering notes of caramel and wet wool. This
wine sells for about $25 for a 375 ml bottle. Given the intensity of the labor
that goes into harvest and production I don’t see how they are making any money
off of this wine.
8. 2001 Château Guiraud, Sauternes
This
first growth wine is produced from a 85 ha (210 acres) of Sauternes appellation
vines. Only Semillon (65%) and Sauvignon (35%) are planted with a density of
plantation is 6,660 vine per ha and the average age of the vines is 35-40
years. The average yield is 12hl/ha and the maximum yield allowed by the
appellation is 25hl/ha. They harvest each grape individually by hand picking
only the botrytised berries in 2 to 7 successive waves through the vineyard.
The grapes are required to achieve at least 40 Brix in order to achieve the
minimum requirement of 20° potential alcohol. The fermentation takes place in
new oak barrels over a period of three weeks to two months. Different batches
are fermented until they reach their own equilibrium which depends upon their
selection. Chapitalization (adding sugar), cryoextraction, fortification and any
other techniques used to enrich the wine are absolutely prohibited. The wine is
then aged in barrels for 24 months. The annual production for the first growth
is about 100,000 bottles. During poor vintages (such as 1991 and 1993) no
classified growth is produced.[2]
This
wine is clear, amber at the core to gold at the rim with minor variation and
high viscosity. On the nose it is clean with aromas of candied apricots,
quince, sweet corn, honey, and saffron. On the palate it is sweet and luscious
with high alcohol with notes of golden raisins, marmalade, crystalized honey,
and graham crackers. It has medium+ acidity, medium+ body, high alcohol and a
very long sweet tangy finish. This wine sells for about $45-$50.
Château Guiraud wine track record
is quite impressive, with 92+ vintages and ratings of 97 points in 2005 which was
designated #4 on Wine Spectator’s 2008 Top 100 list. The 2003 made the Top 100
list as well. For far less than $75 per bottle Château Guiraud is definitely an outstanding Premier Cru that is
accessible to wine lovers.
Observations
While
the Sauternes were very nice and the Bordeaux white wines were interesting, I
preferred the clean, fresh fruit and herbal character of the Sancerre from the
Loire. The Bordeaux white wines are produced or aged in oak in a manner similar
a California Chardonnay and I find that the Sauvignon Blanc loses too much of
its crisp refreshing edge that I enjoy.
[1]
http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/sauternesbarsac/raymond-lafon/
[2]
http://chateauguiraud.fr/en/index.php?act=3
