The
following are my notes for studying the wines of the Sicily region of Italy
including information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and
white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I
also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.
Sicily (Sicilia)
appears on the map as the football being kicked by Italy’s boot, separated from
Calabria by the narrow Strait of Messina. It is Italy’s largest region with
10,000 square miles. In terms of quantity of production it is second only to
Veneto but very little of the
wine is at the DOC level.
Grapes that do
well in heat thrive in Sicily as the island is home to hearty red wines such as
Nero d’ Avola and Pignatello. Top white wines include Catarratto,
Trebbiano, Inzolia and Grillo. But Sicily’s modern success
can be attributed to Sicilia IGT wines, mostly produced from international
varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
Marsala
Marsala is the Sicily’s most famous vinous product which was
discovered by the Englishman John Woodhouse in 1773, who first fortified the
wine to ensure safe shipment to Great Britain. Marsala became popular among the
British along with other fortified wines (such as Port, Sherry, and Madeira) in
an era when Bordeaux wines were heavily taxed. However, its popularity declined
in the 20th century due to being rebranded as a cooking wine. In 1960 the Marsala
DOC was created but the market was not very favorable to fortified wines.
Marsala is made
with the Grillo, Inzolia, and Catarratto white grape varietals, among others
and contains about 15-20% alcohol by volume. Different Marsala wines are
classified according to their color, sweetness, and the duration of their
aging. The three levels of sweetness are secco (with a maximum 40 grams of
residual sugar per liter), semisecco (41-100 g/l) and sweet (over
100 g/l). The color and aging categories are as follows:
Category
|
Color
|
Oro
|
Golden
|
Ambra
|
Amber - The
coloring comes from the mosto cotto sweetener added to the wine.
|
Rubino
|
Ruby - Made
from red grape varieties such as Perricone, Calabrese, Nero d'Avola and
Nerello Mascalese.
|
The best of which
is made through a method similar to the solera
process of fractional blending in which older wines are blended with younger
wines using a complex system of a hierarchy of barrels. Within each category
are there are three classifications according to their age which are as
follows:
Classifications
|
Aging Classifications
|
Fine
|
Minimal aging,
typically less than a year
|
Superiore
|
At least two
(2) years
|
Superiore
Riserva
|
At least four
(4) years
|
Vergine
|
At least five
(5) years
|
Vergine
Stravecchio
Vergine
Riserva
|
At least ten
(10) years
|
Dessert Wines
Dessert styles have always been prominent in Sicily. Beyond
the sweeter versions of Marsala, the island produces dessert wines from the
Zibibbo (Moscato) and Malvasia grapes. Located to the east of Vittoria in
southeastern Sicily are the Moscato di
Noto DOC (70 acres) and Moscato di
Siracusa DOC (5 acres). Off the northern coast of Italy, the Malvasia delle Lipari DOC wines are
produced in purely sweet, passito, and fortified styles. Zibibbo is used
to create the sweet wines of Moscato di
Pantelleria DOC and the superior Passito
di Pantelleria on the volcanic island of Pantelleria, near the African
Coast.
Climate
|
|
Sicily is
affected by sirocco
which is a Mediterranean wind that comes from the Sahara and reaches
hurricane speeds in North Africa and Southern Europe. Consequently Sicily has an arid
Mediterranean heat but it is countered by altitude in the better vineyards,
allowing large diurnal swings to even the ripening process, and beneficial
hillside exposures are common on the mountainous island.
|
|
IGTs
Sicily has
7 Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) zones which are: Avola,
Camarro, Fontanarossa di Cerda, Salemi, Salina, Sicilia, Valle Belice.
|
|
DOCs and DOCGs
There are 22 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata
(DOC)s and 1 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in
Sicily.
|
|
DOCs
|
|
1.
Alcamo
DOC
|
Established in 1972. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto, Chardonnay, Grecanico Dorato, Grillo,
Müller-Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc. The primary red grape varietals are:
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Frappato, Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Nero
d’Avola (Calabrese), Perricone, Sangiovese, Syrah. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 60% Catarratto; maximum 40% Ansonica, Chardonnay, Grecanico,
Grillo, Müller-Thurgau, and/or Sauvignon Blanc. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 60% Nero d’Avola; maximum 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Frappato,
Merlot, Perricone, Sangiovese, and/or Syrah. Rosato
may consist of any proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Frappato,
Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola, Perricone, Sangiovese, and/or Syrah. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of
60% Catarratto; maximum 40% Ansonica, Chardonnay,
Grecanico, Grillo, Müller-Thurgau, and/or Sauvignon Blanc. Rosato
Spumante
may consist of any proportions of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Frappato, Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola, Perricone,
Sangiovese, and/or Syrah.
|
2.
Contea
di Sclafani DOC
|
Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto, Chardonnay, Grecanico Dorato, Grillo, Pinot Bianco
and Sauvignon Blanc. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Perricone, Pinot Nero,
Sangiovese, Syrah. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 50% Ansonica (locally Insolia), Catarratto, and/or Grecanico. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 50% Nerello Mascalese and/or Perricone. Rosato
must consist of a minimum of 50% Nerello Mascalese. Spumante
may consist of any proportions of approved white varietals. Rosato Spumante
may consist of any proportions of 50% Nerello
Mascalese. Vendemmia Tardiva may consist of any proportions of approved
white varietals.
|
3.
Contessa Entellina DOC
|
Established in 1993. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Chardonnay, Fiano, Grecanico Dorato, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier.
The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Pinot Nero, and Syrah.
Bianco
and Vendemmia Tardiva
must consist of a minimum of 50%
Ansonica. Rosso and Rosato must consist of
a minimum of 50%
Nero d’Avola (aka Calabrese) and/or Syrah.
|
4.
Delia
Nivolelli DOC
|
Established in 1998. The primary
white grape varietals are: Ansonica, Chardonnay, Damaschino,
Grecanico Dorato, Grillo, Müller-Thurgau, and Sauvignon Blanc. The primary red grape varietals
are: Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Perricone, Sangiovese, Syrah. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 65% Ansonica (locally Inzolia), Grecanico,
and/or Grillo. Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Nero d’Avola (aka Calabrese), Perricone (locally Pignatello),
Sangiovese, and/or Syrah.
|
5.
Eloro
DOC
|
Established in 1994. The primary red grape varietals are: Frappato, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese),
Perricone. Rosso must consist of a minimum of
90% Frappato, Nero d’Avola
(aka Calabrese), and/or Perricone. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of.
Spumante
Rosato must consist of a minimum of. Metodo Classico Rosé
must consist of a minimum of
.
|
6.
Erice
DOC
|
Established in 2004. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Chardonnay, Grecanico Dorato, Grillo, Müller-Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc, and
Zibibbo. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Frappato, Merlot,
Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Perricone, and Syrah. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 60%
Catarratto. Rosso must consist of a minimum of
60% Nero d’Avola. Spumante
Brut must
consist of a minimum of 70%
Chardonnay. Spumante
Dolce must consist of a minimum of 95% Zibibbo. Sauvignon Blanc Vendemmia
Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 95% Sauvignon Blanc. Zibibbo
Vendemmia Tardiva and Passito must
consist of a minimum of
95% Zibibbo.
|
7.
Etna
DOC
|
Established in 1968. The Etna DOC is in eastern Sicily,
and the vines on the Mount Etna’s slopes benefit from well-drained volcanic
soils—but viticulture in the shadow of an active volcano is potentially very
dangerous. The primary white grape varietal is Carricante. The primary red grape varietal is
Nerello Mascalese.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 60%
Carricante with a maximum of 40% Catarratto, 15% Trebbiano, or Minella Bianca.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese and a maximum of
20% Nerello Cappuccio. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 60% Nerello Mascalese.
|
8.
Faro
DOC
|
Established in 1977. The primary red grape varietal is Nerello Mascalese.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 5–60%
Nerello Mascalese; 15–30% Nerello Cappuccio; 5–10% Nocera; maximum 15%
Gaglioppo, Nero d’Avola, and/or Sangiovese.
|
9.
Malvasia
delle Lipari DOC
|
Established in 1974. The primary white grape varietal is Malvasia. Bianco
and Passito, and Liquoroso
must consist of a minimum of 92–95%
Malvasia di Lipari and 5–8% Corinto Nero.
|
10.
Mamertino
di Milazzo or Mamertino DOC
|
Established in 2004. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
and Grillo. The primary red grape varietal is Nero d’Avola.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 45%
Catarratto; minimum 35% Ansonica (locally Inzolia) and/or Grillo (minimum 10%
each). Rosso must consist of a minimum of
60% Nero d’Avola and a
minimum of 10% Nocera. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of.
Spumante
Rosato must consist of a minimum of. Metodo Classico Rosé
must consist of a minimum of
.
|
11.
Marsala
DOC
|
Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Damaschino, and Grillo. The primary red grape varietals
are: Nerello Mascalese,
Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and Perricone. The grape varietals and minimum
alcohol regulations for the various types of Marsala are as follows:
Ambra may consist of any proportions of
Ansonica (locally Inzolia), Catarratto, Damaschino, and/or Grillo. Minimum
alcohol level: 18.0%
Oro may consist of any proportions of any
proportions of Ansonica, Catarratto, Damaschino, and/or Grillo. Minimum
alcohol level: 18.0%
Rubino must consist of a minimum of 70% Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola,
and/or Perricone (locally Pignatello); maximum 30% Ansonica, Catarratto,
Damaschino, and/or Grillo. Minimum alcohol level: 18.0%.
Fine (Ambra, Oro, Rubino) Minimum
alcohol level: 17.5% and ageing minimum 1 year, including 8 months in
barrel.
Superiore or Vecchio (Ambra, Oro, Rubino). Minimum
alcohol level: 18.0%.
Superiore Riserva (Ambra, Oro, Rubino)
Vergine or Soleras (Ambra, Oro,
Rubino). Minimum alcohol level: 18.0%.
Vergine Stravecchio or Riserva (Ambra, Oro,
Rubino). Minimum alcohol level: 18.0%
|
12.
Menfi
DOC
|
Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Damaschino, Fiano, Grecanico Dorato, Grillo, Pinot
Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, and Viognier
The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico,
Alicante, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Frappato,
Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Perricone, Petit Verdot,
Pinot Nero, Syrah. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 60% Ansonica
(locally Inzolia), Catarratto, Chardonnay, Grillo, and/or Grecanico Dorato.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Alicante, Alicante Bouchet,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Perricone, and/or Syrah. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 60% Ansonica, Catarratto, Chardonnay,
Grillo, and/or Grecanico Dorato.
Spumante
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 5% Frappato, Nerello Mascalese, Nero
d’Avola, and/or Pinot Nero. Passito Bianco and Vendemmia Tardiva
must consist of a minimum of
60% Ansonica, Catarratto, Chardonnay, Grillo, and/or Grecanico Dorato.
|
13.
Monreale
DOC
|
Established in 2000. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Chardonnay, Grillo, Pinot Bianco. The primary red grape varietals
are: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Perricone, Pinot Nero,
Sangiovese, Syrah. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 50% Ansonica
(locally Inzolia) and/or Catarratto; maximum 30% Trebbiano.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 50%
Nero d’Avola and/or Perricone.
Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Nerello Mascalese, Perricone,
and/or Sangiovese.
|
14.
Noto
DOC
|
Established in 1974. The primary white grape varietal is Moscato. The primary red
grape varietal is Nero
d’Avola. Passito,
Liquoroso and Spumante must consist of
a minimum of 100% Moscato
Bianco. Spumante can have a pressure of as little as 4 atmospheres.
|
15.
Pantelleria
DOC
|
Established as
the Moscato di Pantelleria DOC in 1971; named changed in 2013.
The primary white grape varietal is Zibibbo.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 85%
Zibibbo (aka Moscato di Alessandria). Passito
Bianco, Moscato
Dorato, Moscato Spumante, Moscato Liquoroso and Passito Liquoroso must
consist of 100% Zibibbo.
|
16.
Riesi
DOC
|
Established in 2001. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica and
Chardonnay. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nerello
Mascalese, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and Syrah. Bianco,
Vendemmia Tardiva
and Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 75%
Ansonica (locally Insolia) and/or Chardonnay. Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 80%
Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Nero d’Avola.
|
17.
Salaparuta
DOC
|
Established in 2006. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Chardonnay, and Grillo. The primary red grape varietals
are: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and Syrah. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 60%
Catarratto. Passito
Bianco must
consist of Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 65% Nero d’Avola.
|
18.
Sambuca
di Sicilia DOC
|
Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Chardonnay,
Grecanico Dorato, Grillo, and Sauvignon Blanc. The primary red
grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 50% Ansonica.
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of
a minimum of 50% Nero
d’Avola. Passito must consist of a minimum of 50% Ansonica.
|
19.
Santa
Margherita di Belice DOC
|
Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
and Grecanico Dorato. The primary red grape varietals
are: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and Sangiovese. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50–70%
Grecanico Dorato and/or Catarratto Bianco Lucido; 30–50% Ansonica.
Passito Bianco must consist of Rosso must
consist of a minimum of 50–80%
Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Sangiovese; 20%–50% Nero d’Avola (aka Calabrese).
|
20.
Sciacca
DOC
|
Established in 1998. The primary white grape varietals
are: Ansonica, Catarratto,
Chardonnay, and Grecanico Dorato. The primary red grape varietals
are: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and Sangiovese.
Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 70%
Ansonica (locally Inzolia), Catarratto Bianco Lucido, Chardonnay, and/or
Grecanico Dorato. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 70% Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Nero d’Avola, and/or Sangiovese. Rosato
must consist of a minimum of 70%
Ansonica, Cabernet Sauvignon, Catarratto, Chardonnay, Grecanico Dorato,
Merlot, Nero d’Avola (aka Calabrese), and/or Sangiovese. Rosato can be made either by vinifying red
grapes as a white wine or by vinifying red and white grapes together.
|
21.
Siracusa
DOC
|
Established as
the Moscato di Siracusa DOC in 1973; expanded as Siracusa DOC in 2011.
The primary white grape varietal is Moscato.
The primary red grape varietals are: Nero
d’Avola (Calabrese) and Syrah. Bianco and Passito must
consist of 40% Moscato
Bianco. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 65% Nero d’Avola. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 85% Moscato Bianco.
|
22.
Vittoria
DOC
|
Established in 2005. The primary white grape varietal is Ansonica. The primary red
grape varietals are:
Frappato and Nero d’Avola (Calabrese). Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 50–70% Nero
d’Avola; 30–50% Frappato.
|
DOCGs
|
|
1.
Cerasuolo
di Vittoria DOCG
|
Established as
a DOC in 1973; became a DOCG in 2005. The primary red grape varietals
are: Frappato and Nero
d’Avola (Calabrese). Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 50–70% Nero
d’Avola (aka Calabrese); 30–50% Frappato. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is the sole
DOCG of Sicilia, elevated from DOC in 2005. It produces only red wine, made
from at least 50 percent Nero d’Avola and a minimum of 30 percent Frappato;
no other grape varieties are allowed in the blend. The denomination is
located on the south coast of the island of Sicily not far from the
southeastern tip. It is collocated with the Vittoria DOC, which produces a
similar red wine with looser standards as well as varietals of Nero d’Avola,
Frappato, and white Ansonica (aka Inzolia). Within the
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, there is a relatively large Classico zone,
comprising the area originally included in the denomination when it was
established in 1973. Vittoria itself is the largest town of the Classico
zone. Wines from within this area can be labeled as Classico if they are aged
a minimum of 18 months. Otherwise, wines can be released in the June after
the harvest. The wines of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG are typically ruby
red in color with aromas of cherry, red berries, plum, and pomegranate. The
fresh young fruit character is typical of Frappato; blends that rely more
heavily on Nero d’Avola show more tannin and hints of wild herbs. The acidity
can be high for well-tended vines on the preferred terra rossa soil,
and the minimum alcohol level is 13 percent. Production amounts to around
6,000 hectoliters, the equivalent of 50,000 cases (Vittoria DOC adds about
2,000 hl more).
|
Key White Grape Varieties
|
|
French Varietals
|
Chardonnay, Chenin
Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier
|
German Varietals
|
Müller-Thurgau
|
Ansonica
|
Also known as Inzolia, it is most
traditionally used as an ingredient in the fortified Marsala wines. It is a
rare example of a naturally tannic white grape and it has low acidity.
Ansonica produces medium to full bodied whites wines of deep golden hue with
aromas of yellow apples, herbs and dried apricots with chewy sensation and
saline flavors on the palate.
|
Carricante
|
Also known as
Catanese Bianco, and Catarratto. The variety is known for its marked acidity,
and the high yields which gave rise to its name (carica means
"load" in Italian). The best examples come from vines grown in
volcanic soils, at high altitude (Etna's vineyards stretch up as high as
3940ft /1200m). If harvested too early, this acidity is all too apparent in
the wine, and is sometimes countered by lees contact and malolactic
fermentation and/or partial barrel aging. Carricante wines offer a broad
range of refreshing citrus aromas – anything from lemon and lime to
grapefruit to orange – alongside cooling herbal notes such as mint and
aniseed. An underlying mineral, slatey character is also to be found in the
finest examples. When aged in stainless steel and without lees contact, notes
of tart green apple shine through – a searing reminder of the variety's
naturally high acidity. Weightier Carricante wines (particularly
later-harvested examples) are complemented by honeyed hints and the creamy
texture that results from lees contact. Carricante is the key grape behind
white wines made under the Etna DOC title
|
Catarratto
|
Catarratto is the island’s most heavily planted grape and
the third most cultivated grape in Italy, despite being found only in the
vineyards of western Sicily. The grape, utilized in Marsala blends and the
Alcamo Bianco DOC table wines, churns out millions of hectoliters of juice
destined for grape concentrate or distillation. Inzolia and Grillo are better
alternatives, for Marsala and table wines.
|
Corinto Nero
|
In
Emilia-Romagna, it is known as Tarmarina. It is also known as Passolina, Aiga
Passera, Staphina, Patras Currant and Niuriduzzi. It is believed to have
arrived in Sicily (most likely via nearby Messina or the ancient port of
Siracusa) from Greece, perhaps from Corinth as suggested by its name
|
Damaschino
|
Also
known as Damaskino. A rare Sicilian
grape variety that may be used in the production of Marsala,
or blended with Catarratto
in dry white wines. When fortified
as Marsala wine, Damaschino can be sweet or dry, depending on the producer’s
desired style. It is typically blended with Grillo,
Ansonia and Carratto, but any number of variations are possible. As a dry
white wine, Damaschino – Carratto blends tend to be straw colored, with quite
fruity aromas. It is rarely produced as varietal
wine.
|
Fiano
|
Fiano
thrives in the volcanic soils of the Apennine Mountains and it is used
primarily as a varietal wine. Fiano tends to have is aromas and flavors of
tropical fruit like pineapple with nutty, floral, honeyed notes and spice. It
can develop a sweetness that makes it extremely attractive to bees, as
referenced by its traditional name, Vitis
apiana (“the vine beloved
of bees”). Fiano is best known for its dry wines but it is also made into passito dessert wines that are luscious and
textured, developing dried fruit flavors of fig and prune. It is most
well-known in Fiano di Avellino DOCG wine.
|
Grecanico
Dorato
|
DNA typing
studies in 2003 and 2008 have confirmed that the Grecanico Dorato (Grecanio)
grape of Sicily is identical to Garganega. In Italy it is grown predominantly
in Sicilia (98%) but it is also used to make Soave and Gambellara in Veneto,
northern Italy.
|
Grillo
|
Also known as
Riddu , it a local Sicilian grape variety that was once widely grown on
bush-vines and used in the production of Marsala, the island’s famous
fortified wine. The variety is still extensively grown on Sicily, despite
that fact that demand for Marsala has dramatically shrunk since the end of
the 20th Century. It is now more common to find Grillo produced as varietal
wine, or in a blend alongside Inzolia, Catarratto or Chardonnay. Grillo can
achieve very high levels of potential alcohol when left to hang on the vine.
This is a desirable trait in fortified wine, but the modern preference for
crisp, low-alcohol Italian white wines does has not advanced Grillo’s
popularity. At its best, Grillo shows a range of citrus flavors, usually led
by lemon.
|
Pinot
Bianco
|
Also
known as Pinot
Blanc in France and Weissburgunder in Germany. It is a mutation of Pinot
Grigio (which is a mutation of Pinot Noir) and it tends to have more aromas
and flavors of green apples, white flower, and beeswax with more floral,
steely and minerality notes than Pinot Grigio. It is more common in Friuli
Venezia Giulia and Alto Adige.
|
Zibibbo
|
Also known as
Muscat of Alexandria, it is produced in the Sicilian island of Pantelleria.
Ancient Arab settlers brought the aromatic grape (“zibib” is Arabic for
“grape”), to the island which was a precursor to Marsala which has been made Sicily
for centuries. The grapes, which are similar in aromatics to Muscat, are left
on the vine till they partially ferment in the sun as they raisinate. The
resulting wine, also known as Bianco di Pantelleria, has characteristics of
fortified wines, but without the addition of brandy, and with lower alcohol.
It is straw yellow to amber in color, and managing to be both dry and
somewhat sweet at the same time.
|
Key Red Grape Varieties
|
|
French Varietals
|
Alicante,
Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Frappato, Merlot, Petit
Verdot, Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero), Syrah.
|
Frappato
|
Also known as
Frappato Nero and Frappato di Vittoria, it is a Cherry-colored, aromatic and
low in tannins, light bodied widely grown on the southeastern coast of
Sicily. It is most commonly used as blended wine with Nero
d’Avola in the Cerasuolo
di Vittoria DOCG. An Italian study published in 2008 using DNA typing showed
that Frappato is a crossing of Sangiovese and another, so far unidentified,
grape variety.
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Nerello
Mascalese
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Also known as
Niureddu an Negrello, “Nerello” refers to the black color of the grapes and “Mascalese” is derived from the Mascali plain between Mount Etna and
the coast where it is grown primarily on the volcanic slopes. DNA testing has
suggested that the variety is probably related to Sangiovese. It is a
late-ripening variety, and most vines are trained in the traditional
bush-vine method. The grapes are commonly blended with Nerello Cappuccio in
Etna DOC wines, Faro DOC wines and Sicilia IGT wines. The grape produces
fresh red wines with fruity, herbaceous flavors, excellent minerality with
earthy notes.
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Nero
d’Avola
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The name means
"Black of Avola" which is derived from the town of Avola on the
island’s southeast coast. It is also
known as Calabrese (meaning "of Calabria"). It is the most
important and widely planted red wine grape variety in Sicily.
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Perricone
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Also known as Pignatello and Tuccarino, it is a permitted variety in the
Contea di Sclafani DOC. It tends to have medium to tannins, high acidity with
aromas and flavors of red berries, earth and herbs.
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Sangiovese
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Sangiovese derives its name from
the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove and
it has several synonyms. In Chianti Classico it may be
referred to as Sangiovetto, in Montalcino it is
called Brunello, in Montepulciano it is
called Prugnello
Gentile and along the coast in Maremma it is called Morellino.
"Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones
which are broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese
Piccolo. The Sangiovese Grosso family includes the clones growing in the
Brunello region as well as the clones known as Prugnolo Gentile and Sangiovese di Lamole that was grown in the
Greve in Chianti region. Sangiovese wines in Tuscany tend to be light in
color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are
naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When
aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often
Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new
barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
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Notable Wine Producers
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Marco de Bartoli in Marsala
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Palari
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Planeta
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COS
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The Wines
While studying
Sicily I tasted the following wines:
2008 Capu Chiurma Di Ripiddu Rosso, Etna
DOC
This wine is a
blend of 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Mantellato/Cappuccio.
It is a semi-clear red wine with low intensity, garnet in color at the core to
brick-red at the rim with some browning around the edge and medium viscosity.
On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dried cherries, Dr. Pepper soda-pop, black tea, dried roses, with minute notes of dried cinnamon, anise and spice. On the palate it is dry with medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a medium+ length finish. In some ways this wine seems like a cross between a Pinot Noir and a Nebbiolo. This wine sells for $17.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco
On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dried cherries, Dr. Pepper soda-pop, black tea, dried roses, with minute notes of dried cinnamon, anise and spice. On the palate it is dry with medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a medium+ length finish. In some ways this wine seems like a cross between a Pinot Noir and a Nebbiolo. This wine sells for $17.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco
2012
Terre di Giurfo Belsito, Vittoria DOC
This wine is made
from 100% Frappato.
This is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with
moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean and very aromatic with medium+
intense aromas of boysenberries, blueberries, grape tart candies, black
cherries, and strong floral notes of violets and lavender hand soap. On the
palate the nose is confirmed, the fruit is slightly tart and it is dry with moderate
tannins, medium acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $18.99
at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.
2006
Curto Fontanelle Nero D’ Avola
This wine is made
from 100% Nero D' Avola. This is an opaque red wine, dark purple at
the core to violet at the rim with a tint of garnet around the edge showing
signs of age with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate
intense aromas of dried black cherries, plums, with hints of cocoa, damp earth,
and pepper as well as a subtle waft of black licorice and spice. On the palate
it is dry with moderate tannins, medium acidity, medium+ body and medium+
alcohol and a moderate length finish. This
wine sells for $24.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.
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