Italy Unit 10 - Umbria

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Umbria region of Italy including information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

Located in central Italy, Umbria is one of five landlocked regions - all the others are in Northern Italy. It is the only Italian region having neither a coastline nor a border with other countries. To the west it borders the well-known region of Tuscany, Marche to the east and Lazio to the south.

The region includes the Lake Trasimeno, Cascata delle Marmore, and is crossed by the River Tiber. The small region lies in the shadow of the Apennines, its climate moderated by maritime winds funneling from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Umbria is Italy’s fourth-smallest region and produces only a third as much wine as Tuscany. Most of the Umbria region's vineyard plantings are along terraces cut into the hillsides, and are reflected in a number of the area’s DOC names (colli translates to “hill”). The two most well known regions in Umbria are Orvieto DOC, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG and Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG.

Climate
Umbria has a climate and geography similar to Tuscany’s, with cold, rainy winters and dry sun-filled summers.  Areas surrounding Lake Trasimeno and Lake Bolsena have a mild Mediterranean microclimate.
DOCs and DOCGs Umbria has 12 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) and two Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). It ranks 11th among Italian regions in percentage of DOC classified wines most of which were created after 1980.
DOCs and DOCGs The 13 DOCs in Umbria are as follows:
1. Assisi DOC			Established as a DOC in 1997. The primary white grape varietals are: Grechetto and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero plus Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Trebbiano and a minimum of 10% Grechetto. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Sangiovese and 10–30% Merlot.
2. Colli Altotiberini DOC			Established as a DOC in 1980. The primary white grape varietals are:  Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Trebbiano The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero plus Sangiovese. Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Spumante must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and/or Pinot Nero.
3. Colli Amerini DOC			Established as a DOC in 1989. The primary white grape varietals is Malvasia. The primary red grape varietal is Merlot. Bianco must consist of a minimum of Trebbiano Toscano grape (70-85%), blended with Grechetto, Verdello, Garganega and Malvasia Toscana. Rosso and Rosato is a blend of Sangiovese (65-80%), blended with Merlot, Montepulciano, Cannaiolo, Ciliegiolo and Barbera.
4. Colli del Trasimeno DOC			Established as a DOC in 1972. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero and Gamay  plus Italian varietals Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Trebbiano Toscano; minimum 30% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 40% Sangiovese; minimum 30% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Gamay, and/or Merlot. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 40% Trebbiano; minimum 30% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Spumante must be Metodo Classico and consist of a minimum of a minimum of 70% Chardonnay, Grechetto, and Pinot Nero.
5. Colli Martani DOC			Established as a DOC in 1989. The Todi DOC lies within the Colli Martani DOC and also produces Grechetto, The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Sangiovese, and Vernaccia Nera. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Spumante must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Chardonnay, Grechetto, and/or Pinot Nero and a maximum of 10% Malvasia.
6. Colli Perugini DOC			Established as a DOC in 1982. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) and the Italian varietal Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 80% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and/or Pinot Nero and may be Charmat or Metodo Classico.
7. Lago di Corbara DOC			In English the names means “Lake Corby”, it was established as a DOC in 1998. It is within the territory of Orvieto, solid red wines are produced on the tuffeau soils. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc plus Italian varietals Grechetto and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero plus the Italian varietal Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Vermentino. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and/or Sangiovese. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Sauvignon Blanc. Passito must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Sauvignon Blanc.
8. Montefalco DOC			Established as a DOC in 1980. The primary white grape varietal is Grechetto. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Grechetto and 20–35% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60–70% Sangiovese and 10–15% Sagrantino.
9. Orvieto DOC			Established as a DOC in 1971. The primary white grape varietals are: Grechetto and Trebbiano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano Toscano (known locally as Procanico). Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of. Muffa Nobile (Botrytis Cinerea “noble rot”) sweet wines must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano and must achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 16.0%. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano. A new encépagement engineered in 2003 emphasizes the native Grechetto grape over the blander Trebbiano Toscana and may lead to a higher base standard of wine in the future.
10. Rosso Orvietano DOC			Established as a DOC in 1998. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) plus Italian varietals Aleatico, Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 70% Aleatico, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Montepulciano, Pinot Nero, and/or Sangiovese.
11. Spoleto DOC			Established as a DOC in 2011. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbaino. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino. Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Trebbiano.
11. Todi DOC			Established as a DOC in 2010. The Colli Martani DOC encompassing the Todi DOC for the production of Grechetto only. The primary white grape varietal is Grechetto. The primary red grape varietals are: Merlot and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Grechetto. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Grechetto Passito must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 85% Grechetto.
12. Torgiano DOC			Established as a DOC in 1968 and Torgiano Rosso Riserva became a separate DOCG in 1991 with the assistance of the Lungarotti family, Torgiano’s largest producer. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, and Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero plus the Italian varietal Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Spumante must be Metodo Classico and consist of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Chardonnay and a maximum of 50% Pinot Nero. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 50% Chardonnay. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Trebbiano Toscano.
DOCGs The 2 DOCGs in Umbria are as follows:
1. Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG				Formerly part of the Montefalco DOC it became Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG in 1992 and then the name was changed to Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG in 2009. The primary red grape varietal is Sagrantino. Rosso and Vin Santo must consist of 100% Sagrantino. Rosso, must be aged a minimum of 37 months, including 12 months in barrel and 4 months in bottle. Passito, minimum 37 months, including 4 months in bottle.
2. Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG				Formerly part of the Torgiano DOC, it became a separate DOCG in 1991. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese and it must be aged a minimum of 3 years, including 6 months in bottle Riserva must consists of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese.
Key White Grape Varieties
French Varietals	Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc
German Varietals	Riesling
Canaiolo Nero	Introduced by the Etruscans, one theory of the origin of the name is that it derives from Latin, dies caniculares, meaning “dog days of August” which refers to the days of a heat wave or the hottest days of the year when this grape changes color to reddish purple. Another theory is that it is derived from a flower rosa canina which is reminiscent of the aroma of the wine. The grape is also known as Caccione, Merla, Tindillaro, Uva Fosca and in ancient history it was known as Uva Canaijuola. Until the late 19th Century it was the main grape of the Chianti blend. It is still grown today throughout central Italy and is used as a blending grape in a wide range of Sangiovese-based wines. There is also white sub-variety known as Canaiolo Bianco, which is a permitted grape variety in the Umbrian wine region of Orvieto where is known as Drupeggio.
Drupeggio	A white sub-variety of Canaiolo, also known as Canaiolo bianco, it is a permitted grape variety in the Umbrian wine region of Orvieto. It is also a permitted variety for use in Vin Santo production but the grape's limited ability to raisin sufficiently for use in straw wine production makes its appearance in these Italian dessert wines very rare.
Grechetto	Also known as Grechetto Bianco, it is believed to have its origins in Greece. Grechetto has been grown in Italy for so long that it is now widely regarded as being native to Umbria and it is grown widely in Ovieto. The grape's thick skin provides good resistance to downy mildew which can attack the grape late in the harvest season. This makes Grechetto a suitable blending grape in the production of Vin Santo. Grechetto wines affected by botrytis display a range of nutty flavors and are labeled as abboccato.
Trebbiano	Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+ DOCs.
Verdello	It is indigenous to the Umbria region where it has been recorded growing in the Orvieto region since at least 1894. But today it plays a minor role as a blending grape. It should not be confused with the Portuguese wine grape Verdelho as it has no close genetic relationship. But, it has also been known has also been known under the synonym Verdetto.
Key Red Grape Varieties
French Varietals		Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Merlot, Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero)
Sagrantino		An indigenous grape to Umbria grown primarily in the village of Montefalco and its surrounding areas. The grape is very tannic varieties and it creates wines that are inky purple with an almost-black center. The bouquet is one of dark, brooding red fruits, black cherries, ripe blackberry with hints of plum, cinnamon, and earth. It can be certain smoky at times sappy display pine flavors and it is typically a wine that is both sweet and savory. Sagrantino’s high tannins and affinity for oak mean that it matures particularly well, which is reflected in the stipulation in the local wine law that it must not be released until it has aged for at least 30 months. Fortunately, though, Sagrantino’s tannins are more sweet than austere and modern examples can be quite approachable in their youth.
Sangiovese		Sangiovese derives its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove and it has several synonyms. "Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones which are broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. Sangiovese wines tend to be light in color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
Vernaccia Nera		Vernaccia Nera is genetically identical to the Garnacha of Spain and Grenache in France as are Cannonau and Tai Rosso, but all of them have developed in relative isolation for centuries. It is best known in Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG in Marche Italy.

The Wines

While studying Umbria I tasted the following wines:

2013 Argillae Orvieto

This wine is a blend of Procanico, Grechetto, Malvasia di Candia, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It is a clear white wine, pale straw in color, with a watery rim and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with medium+ to pronounced aromas of green apples, pears, cantaloupe melon, lime, pineapple and white flowers. On the palate it is dry but fruit forward with medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with a round, soft luscious feel and a long finish. A delicious wine, it sells for $14.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City, California

2011 Antinori “Cervaro della Sala” Chardonnay

This wine is a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto. The grapes come from 15- to 20-year-old vineyard planted around the Castello della Sala in Umbria. The vines are planted in clay and marine-fossil rich soils. The Chardonnay was fermented in barriques and aged there for 6 months, where it underwent malolactic fermentation, while the Grechetto was aged in stainless tanks. The wine was then blended and aged in bottle for 10 months before release. 

This is a clear white wine, bright golden-yellow with a slight luminescent green in color with medium concentration and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of caramelized apples, canned pears, and citrus with hints of dried papaya, salted caramel, vanilla and popcorn. On the palate it is dried with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, moderate+ alcohol and a very long finish. It is very “new world” in style and could easily be mistaken for a California Chardonnay. This wine sells for $44.99 at K&L in Redwood City, California.

2008 Antonelli Montefalco Sagrantino

This is an opaque red wine, almost black at the core to dark purple at the rim with minimal rim variation and moderate viscosity. On the nose it displays medium- intense aromas of blackberries, black cherries, raspberries, dried violets and roses, dried plums, with minor hints of tar and leather. On the palate the nose is confirmed with additional notes of chocolate covered cherries and dark roasted coffee, it is very dry but has some medium+ alcohol sweetness, it has medium+ refined tannins, medium+ acidity and has a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $36.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco and $34.99 at K&L in Redwood City. I had bought a bottle and forgot I had it in my cellar so I bought another, which I will hold for a few years and then compare notes.