Italy Unit 18 - Calabria

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Calabria region of Italy including information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

Calabria is a large peninsula jutting out between the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas which looks like the toe of the Italian boot. It is divided from Sicily by the narrow Strait of Messina, and its northern border with Basilicata is marked by the southern Apennine peaks. Calabria is very rural and mot of its agriculture is based on cereals, citrus and olives. Viticulture and winemaking makes up only about 75,000 acres (30,000 ha) as of 2010. The local landscape is mountainous, and this has led to fragmented land ownership and widely dispersed vineyard zones

White and Red Wines of Calabria

Calabria is home to 8 DOCs, but it has no DOCGs, which cover just 5% of the region's total wine output. Calabria's production is nearly double that of neighboring Basilicata.

The dominant white grape in Calabria is Greco, but white grapes account for less than 10% of Calabrian wine. The best examples may be found in the Melissa DOC and in the Greco di Bianco DOC on Calabria's south-east coast which often partially dries the grapes prior to fermentation.

The dominant red grape of Calabria is Gaglioppo, used to produce both the red and rosato wines of the Cirò DOC, on the Ionian Coast, the best of which is the Cirò Rosso Riserva. Another important Calabrian wine is the sweet white Greco di Bianco, a dried-grape wine from Calabria’s south-east coast.

The 6 other DOCs are located in the west around the Crati River Valley, between Pollino in the north and Lamezia in the south. North-west of the Crati River Valley in the mountains are the notable white wines of Verbicaro, a sub-region of the Terre di Cosenza DOC. Along the east coast are Bivongi DOC, Melissa DOC and the small coast of the S. Anna di Isola di Capo DOC.

Climate
Calabria is covered in mountains, dividing the region climatically between the hot Mediterranean coast and the more continental, higher-altitude interior.
Soils
Most vineyards are on clay and soil, which enables them to be free of Phylloxera, and are planted on their own rootstock.
IGTs Calabria has 10 Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) zones which are: Arghillà, Calabria, Costa Viola, Lipuda, Locride, Palizzi, Pellaro, Scilla, Val di Neto, Valdamato.
DOCs and DOCGs There are 9 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC)s and 0 (zero) Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s in Calabria.
DOCs
1. Bivongi DOC	Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals are: Ansonica, Greco, Guardavalle, Malvasia, Montonico Bianco. The primary red grape varietals are: Castiglione, Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, Nero d’Avola and Nocera. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30–50% Greco, Guardavalle (locally Uva Greca), and/or Montonico Bianco; 30–50% Ansonica and/or Malvasia. Passito Bianco must consist of Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 30–50% Gaglioppo and/or Greco Nero; 30–50% Castiglione, Nero d’Avola (locally Calabrese), and/or Nocera.
2. Cirò DOC	Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietal is Greco The primary red grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum of 80% Greco. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 80% Gaglioppo and a maximum of 10% Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and/or Sangiovese.
3. Greco di Bianco DOC	Established in 1980. The primary white grape varietal is Greco. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 95% Greco.
4. Lamezia DOC	Established in 1979. The primary white grape varietals are: Greco and Montonico Bianco. The primary red grape varietals are: Gaglioppo and Greco Nero. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Greco. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 35–45% Gaglioppo (locally Magliocco); 25–45% Greco Nero and/or Marsigliana. Spumante must be Metodo Classico consist of a minimum of 85% Greco Bianco and/or Montonico Bianco. Passito must consist of 50% Greco Bianco and a minimum of 35% Montonico Bianco.
5. Melissa DOC	Established in 1979. The primary white grape varietal is Greco. The primary red grape varietal is Gaglioppo. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 80–95% Greco; 5–20% Malvasia and/or Trebbiano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 75–95% Gaglioppo; 5–25% Greco, Greco Nero, Malvasia (Bianca), and/or Trebbiano.
6. Sant' Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto DOC	Established in 1979. The primary red grape varietals are: Gaglioppo, Malvasia Nera, Nerello Cappuccio, Nerello Mascalese, Nocera. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 40–60% Gaglioppo and a maximum of 60% Malvasia Nera, Nerello Cappuccio, Nerello Mascalese, and/or Nocera and a maximum of 35% Greco Bianco and/or Malvasia.
7. Savuto DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietals are: Mantonico, Chardonnay, Greco Bianco and Malvasia Bianca. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico, Gaglioppo, Greco Nero and Nerello Cappuccio. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Mantonico with a maximum of 30% Chardonnay, 20% Greco Bianco and 10% Malvasia Bianca. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 45% Aglianico and a maximum of 45% Gaglioppo (locally Arvino); 10% Greco Nero and/or Nerello Cappuccio. Metodo Classico Rosé must consist of a minimum of .
8. Scavigna DOC	Established in 1994. The primary white grape varietal is Gewürztraminer (aka Traminer Aromatico). The primary red grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Gewürztraminer and maximum of 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Bianco; and 10% Welschriesling. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Aglianico and a maximum of 20% Magliocco and 20% Marcigliana Nera.
9. Terre di Cosenza DOC	Established as a DOC in 2011, incorporating as subzones the former Donnici, Pollino, San Vito di Luzzi, and Verbicaro DOCs and Condoleo, Esaro, and Valle dei Crati IGTs. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Greco, Guarnaccia, Malvasia, Montonico Bianco, Moscato, and Pecorello. The primary red grape varietals are: Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, Magliocco Canino, Merlot, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Greco, Guarnaccia, Montonico Bianco (locally Mantonico), and/or Pecorello. Passito Bianco and Bianco Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of 60% Greco, Guarnaccia, Montonico Bianco (locally Mantonico), and/or Pecorello. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Magliocco Canino (also known as Arvino and Mantonico Nero). Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Aglianico, Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, Magliocco Canino (locally Arvino, Guarnaccia Nera, Lacrima, Magliocco Dolce, or Mantonico Nero), and/or Nero d’Avola (locally Calabrese). Spumante must consist of a minimum of 60% Montonico Bianco and be Metodo Classico. Novello grapes must undergo 40% carbonic maceration.
Key White Grape Varieties
Ansonica	Also known as Inzolia in Sicily, where it is most traditionally used as an ingredient in the fortified Marsala wines. It is a rare example of a naturally tannic white grape and it has low acidity. Ansonica produces medium to full bodied whites wines of deep golden hue with aromas of yellow apples, herbs and dried apricots with chewy sensation and saline flavors on the palate.
Greco	Recent DNA profiling has proven that Greco is genetically identical to Asprinio, as it is known along the coast of Campania. It tends to have high acidity and a fresh, clean, grapey flavor profile but they also tend to oxidize in bottle relatively quickly resulting in nutty, caramelized flavors so they are best when consumed young.
Guardavalle	Also known as Uva Greca and Vardavalli. The name means, “to look over the valley” and it is derived from the name a town located between Locri and Noverato in Calbria. It is the same grape as Greco Bianco di Cirò. It is a late-maturing variety with medium sized bunches and conical bunches found in the Bivongi DOC in the province of Catanzaro.
Malvasia	Also known as Malmsey, Malvasier, Malvazia, and Monemvasia. It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years. Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia. It is grown all over Italy.
Montonico Bianco	Not to be confused with Mantonico Bianco, DNA profiling has demonstrated that it is related to Garganega. The Montonico grape has been grown in Abruzzo at least since the mid-19th century, especially in the municipalities of Montonico di Bisenti and Poggio delle Rose in the province of Teramo. The grape bunch tends to be big, long and compact, either cylindrical or pyramid-shaped. Though it ripens late, reaching full maturity around the second week of October, its harvest period depends on whether it is being used to produce spumante. This vine thrives in cool, tempered environments with low fertility soil. The wines produced with this grape have a more or less deep yellow color, sometimes with greenish highlights, low alcohol content, light fragrance of fruits and spices, are slightly astringent and have good structure.
Moscato	Known as Moscatel in Spain and Portugal, and Muscat internationally it is one of the oldest and most widespread grape families in the world. It is believed to have originated in the Middle East and was grown by the ancient Greeks. Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is the oldest and most highly valued of the Muscat family.
Pecorello Bianco	Also known as Pecorella, this grape is sometimes referred to as Pecorino by the locals, even though it is an entirely different grape. There is also a red Pecorello adding further confusion and yet the white version is often referred to simply as Pecorello without the Bianco designation. But the confusion doesn’t end there… sometimes it is referred to as Greco Bianco. The grape tends to have high acidity and is used as a blending grape. As a varietal wine it can be described as being bright straw in color with green highlights with aromas of peach, fresh cut grass and white flowers.
Key Red Grape Varieties
French Varietals	Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
German Varietals	Gewürztraminer (also known as Traminer Aromatico), Welschriesling (also known as Laški Rizling and Olasz Riesling)
Barbera	The 3rd most-planted red grape variety in Italy after Sangiovese and Montepulciano. It is known for its deep color, low tannins and high acidity which enables it to be grown in warmer climates. The fruit profile tends toward dark cherry, dried strawberry, plum, and blackberry.
Castiglione	The name Castiglione is also the name of a commune or village territory in Barolo, Piedmont. This grape is grown in the Reggio Calabria and Consenza provinces, it has medium sized pyramid shaped bunch with “wings” and large oval shaped blue/black grapes. It produces dark wines with pigments that are not prone to oxidization. Other than that I could not find any more information about this varietal.
Gaglioppo	Pronounced “gah-LYOHP-poh”, DNA research has linked the Gaglioppo variety to Sangiovese and Mantonico. The wines tend to have reddish and orange colors, as it tends to oxidize easily. Although it has fairly thick skins it isn't particularly tannic and it tends to produce full bodies wines. Local legend ascribes the wines of Cirò as the beverage of ancient Olympians.
Greco Nero	Also known as Malvasia di Casorzo and Malvasia di Schierano. It is darker-skinned member of the greater Malvasia family. It is a thin-skinned variety that is very aromatic and can be used to produce dry red, rosé, sparkling and passito style wines. It is also a Teinturier grape with juice that ranges in color from light to a deep ruby-red with aromas of plums and cherries.
Guarnaccia	Also known as Perricone Nera, Perricone Nero, Perricone noir, Picnatelo, Pignateddu, Pignatelle, Pignatello, Pirricone nera, Quarnaccia and Tuccarino di Catania. It is primarily grown in Calabria (37%), Veneto (27%), and Sicilia (19%). It is characterized as being medium sized cone shaped, but one of the longest bunches of grapes in Italy.
Magliocco Canino	Also known as Magliuacculu, it is an ancient red variety grown exclusively in Calabria.
Marsigliana	Also known as Uva Greca, Vinciguerra and Greco Nero. There is also a white variety called Marsigliana Bianca.
Malvasia Nera	Also known as Malvasia di Casorzo and Malvasia di Schierano. It is darker-skinned member of the greater Malvasia family. It is a thin-skinned variety that is very aromatic and can be used to produce dry red, rosé, sparkling and passito style wines. It is also a Teinturier grape with juice that ranges in color from light to a deep ruby-red with aromas of plums and cherries.
Nerello Cappuccio	This grapes thrives in the volcanic soils of Mount Etna, particularly at higher altitudes. As a varietal wine Nerello Cappuccio has low tannins and is darkly colored with aromas and flavors of cherries. It is usually blended with Nerello Mascalese as it adds color and perfume as well as softening out some of Nerello Mascalese’s harder edges. It is grown in the Lamezia, Sant'Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto and Savuto DOC and in Sicily.
Nerello Mascalese	Also known as Niureddu and Negrello, it is known as a Sicilian variety as it takes its name from the Mascali plain between Mount Etna and the coast of Sicily where it grows on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. In Calabria it is found in the Lamezia, Sant'Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto, and Savuto DOCs.
Nocera	Also known as Barbi du Sultan, Carricante Nero, Nerelli, Nicera, and Nucera it is primarily known as a native Sicilian variety. It produced wines that are intense yet elegant with aromas and and flavors of dark fruit flavors, leather and spice with high tannins, good acidity and tends with high alcohol and be full bodied. It is commonly blended with Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese.
Nero d’Avola	Nero d’Avola means “Black of Avola”, a reference to the grape’s distinctive dark color. It is better known as the most important and widely planted red wine grape variety in Sicily. In Calabria it is known locally as Calabrese. Depending on production methods, Nero d’Avola can be made into dense and dark wine that is stored in oak barrels and suitable for aging, or young and fresh wines. Younger wines show plum and juicy, red-fruit flavors, while more complex examples offer chocolate and dark raspberry flavors. It typically has high tannins, medium acid and is full-bodied. If grown at higher elevations with cooler temperatures it can produce wines that are very smooth with lower alcohol.
Sangiovese	Sangiovese derives its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove and it has several synonyms. In Chianti Classico it may be referred to as Sangiovetto, in Montalcino it is called Brunello, in Montepulciano it is called Prugnello Gentile and along the coast in Maremma it is called Morellino. "Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones which are broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. The Sangiovese Grosso family includes the clones growing in the Brunello region as well as the clones known as Prugnolo Gentileand Sangiovese di Lamole that was grown in the Greve in Chianti region. Sangiovese wines in Tuscany tend to be light in color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
Notable Wine Producers
Top Producers for Gaglioppo	Librandi, Fattoria di San Francsco
Top Producers for Greco di Bianco	Umberto Ceratti, Fernando Messino

The Wines

While studying Calabria I tasted the following wines:

2006 Odoardi Savuto DOC

This wine is a blend of 45% Gaglioppo, 15% Greco Nero, 15% Nerello Cappuccio, 15% Magliocco Canino, and 10% Sangiovese. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with minimal rim variation and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with medium- intense aromas of grape tart candies, plums, lilac, perfumed hand soap, a hint of mushrooms followed by minor green vegetal/herbal notes. On the palate it is dry and yet juicy with moderate tannins, medium+ acidity and a moderate length somewhat tangy finish. This wine sells for $15.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2010 Duca San Felice Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva Cirò DOC

This wine is 100% Gaglioppo. It is a clear red wine, light ruby-red at the core with low intensity and slightly garnet at the rim with medium viscosity. 

On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of cherries, smoke, forest floor and bacon fat, with minor notes of dried herbs and spice. On the palate it is dry with medium tannins, moderate acidity, it is medium bodied with a moderate length finish. This wine is very Pinot Noir-like in appearance, aromas and flavor but it has more tannin, not as much acidity and does not have the finesse and elegance of fine Burgundy or Russian River Pinot Noir. But A very enjoyable wine that sells for only $15.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.