The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Veneto
wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the
topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive
information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the
wines I tasted from this region.
The Veneto region stretches across most of the northern reaches of the Adriatic Sea, from the Po River to the Austrian border, between Trentino-Alto Adige to the west and Friuli-Venezia Guilia to the east. Along with Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto is one of three highly productive Italian regions known collectively as the Venezie named after the ancient Venetian Republic. Veneto is the 8th largest region of Italy in landmass but is the biggest DOC producer in all of Italy with white wine accounting for over half the DOC production.
Most of the
vineyards are planted on the alluvial plains in the south. The region is most
well known for its Amarone, Valpolicella and Soave but they also produce
Bordeaux-style blends.
Amarone, Ripasso and
Recioto
One of the most
unique methods of wine production in Veneto to understand is the appassimento method used to produce Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto.
Amarone (Amarone della Valpolicella), is a rich full
bodied dry red wine. The name “Amarone” is from the Italian word amaro literally means “bitter” which
doesn’t describe the taste of the wine but rather distinguishes it from Recioto
which is sweeter. But both wines are made using the appassimento method (elsewhere in Italy known as passito) in which fully ripened grapes
are left hanging as long as possible in the vineyard to develop natural depth
and character. The grapes are then carefully placed put into a specialized room
with controlled humidity (60-70%) to prevent mold where they will dry anywhere
from 5 days up to 6 months depending on their ripeness at harvest. This reduces
the amount of liquid in the grapes and concentrates the flavors and sugars. By
further metabolizing the acids within the grapes the result is a wine that is
dry, very intense, concentrated, and rich with high alcohol wine yet is well
balanced.
To create a Ripasso
wine, the skins of the
grapes are kept after pressing them during the appassimento (drying) process. Wine is then added and passed
(re-passed) to the skins and left for a couple weeks to develop more flavor and
characteristics from the previously dried fruit skins.
The name Recioto is
derived from the local
dialect word recie which refers to
the grapes that resemble “ears” at the top of the cluster which usually receive
the most direct sunlight and are the ripest grapes. Historically these very
ripe “ears” were picked separately and used to make very rich, sweet wines. Like
Amarone, these grapes are put to special drying rooms but they are not
fermented to dryness. While Recioto wines are sweeter than table wines they are
not as sweet as most botrytis, fortified or ice wines.
Climate
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The Veneto is characterized by hot summers and cool
winters. But its weather is less extreme than that of the other regions in
Northeastern Italy due to being protected from the harsh northern European
climate by the Alps and its proximity to the Adriatic Sea.
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Soils
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Most vineyards
are on silty sandy soil throughout the Veneto, with influences of
clay and calcareous debris.
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DOCs
There are 20 DOCs in Veneto the most well known are
Bardolino, Valpolicella, and Soave.
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1. Arcole DOC
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Established as a DOC in 2000. The principle white grapes
are: Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc. The
principle red grapes are 4 of the Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. Bianco must have a
minimum of 50% Garganega, Rosso must have a minimum of 50%
Merlot. Spumante must have a minimum of 50% Garganega. Vendemmia
Tardiva must have a minimum of 85% Garganega. Passito must have a
minimum of 50% Garganega
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2. Bagnoli di Sopra or Bagnoli DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1995. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay,
Friulano, Marzemina Bianca (a native grape to Veneto) and Sauvignon Blanc. The
principle red grapes are: Four Boreaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot plus local native Italian vaerietals Cavrara
(a native grape to Calabria), Corbina, Raboso, Refosco and Turchetta (native
grapes to Veneto), (there are 2
hectares in Veneto, 1 in Puglia).
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3. Bianco di Custoza DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1971. Bianco consists of
10–45% Trebbiano; 20–40% Garganega; 5–30% Friulano with a maximum 30% Cortese,
Chardonnay, Malvasia, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, and/or Welschriesling. Spumante
consists of 10–45% Trebbiano; 20–40% Garganega; 5–30% Friulano with a
maximum of 30% Cortese, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco,
and/or Welschriesling. It may be made by Metodo
Classico or the Charmat method.
Passito
consists of 10–45% Trebbiano; 20–40% Garganega; 5–30% Friulano with a maximum
of 30% Cortese, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, and/or
Welschriesling
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4. Breganze DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1969, the town of Breganze is located 33 miles from
Treviso to the east and Verona to the west. The DOC covers Rosso and Bianco wines, and the dessert
wine Torcolato. The reds include Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon plus Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and the indigenous Marzemino.
The white varietals include native varietals such as Vespaiolo, Pinot Grigio,
Pinot Bianco and Tocai as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Rosso
is made from at least 50% Merlot and Bianco
is based on at least 50% Tai. Torcolato
is made entirely from hand-picked Vespaiola grapes that have been
lightly affected by botrytis. Before fermentation, the grapes
are typically dried for 4 months in a traditional method that involves
winding the bunches around twine and hanging them from the ceiling. These hanging
clusters form a twisted rope which gives the wine its name as “torcolato” in
local dialect means “twisted.”
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5. Colli Berici DOC
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Established as
a DOC in 1974, the principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Garganega,
Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc.
The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero and the Italian varietal Tai (formerly
known as Tocai). Rosso. Bianco, Passito and Spumante
wines must contain a minimum of 50% Garganega. Rosso must contain a
minimum of 50% Merlot. Metodo Classico must contain a
minimum of 50% Chardonnay. Spumante can range from Brut to
Demi-sec, and Metodo Classico can
range from Extra Brut to Demi-sec; 15–33 g/l (1.5–3.3%) for Rosato Metodo Classico. Metodo Classico
which must spend a minimum of 15 months on the lees and a minimum of 24
months for Riserva.
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6. Colli Euganei DOC
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Established as
a DOC in 1969. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Garganega,
Glera, Manzoni Bianco, Moscato, Pinella, Pinot Bianco, and Sauvignon Blanc.
The principle red grapes are Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, and Merlot and a native varietal Raboso (aka., Friularo, Raboso
Piave, Raboso Veronese). Bianco consists of a minimum of
30% Garganega, a minimum of 30% Glera (Serprino) and/or Sauvignon Blanc;
5–10% Moscato Bianco and/or Moscato Giallo. Rosso must consist of 40–80%
Merlot, 20–60% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Carmenère with a
maximum 10% Raboso. Riserva requires a minimum aging of 24 months.
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7. Garda and Garda Classico DOC
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Established as
a DOC in 1996. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay, Cortese, Friulano,
Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc,
Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principle red grapes are: Bordeaux
varietals Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero. Italian varietals include
Barbera, Corvina, Groppello (Groppello di Mocasina, Groppello di Revò, Groppello
di San Stefano, Groppello Gentile), Marzemino, Sangiovese. Rosso
Classico and Rosato (Chiaretto Classico) require a minimum of 30% Groppello
(Gentile, Mocasina, and/or San Stefano), a minimum of 5% Barbera, Marzemino,
and Sangiovese. Superiore requires a minimum of 14 months ageing. Riserva
requires a minimum of minimum 2 years ageing. Spumante requires a
minimum 85% Pinot Bianco, Riesling, or Sauvignon Blanc and a maximum 15%
Pinot Nero. Rosé Spumante requires a minimum 30% Groppello; a minimum 5%
Barbera, Marzemino, Sangiovese and a maximum of 15% Pinot Nero. Spumante
wines may undergo second fermentation either in bottles or in autoclaves (sealed tanks used in the
Charmat Process).
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8. Lessini Durello DOC
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Established as
a new DOC in 2011, replacing another Lessini Durello (later Monti Lessini)
DOC from 1988. The principle white grape is a local variety Durello (Durella
Bianca) and there are no red grapes other than Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero)
which is used in making sparkling wine. Spumante requires a minimum of 85% Durello with
a maximum of 15% Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Nero. Non-Riserva
Spumante is fermented only in autoclaves and Riserva wines must be Metodo Classico. Minimum alcohol level is 11.0%
for Spumante; 12.0% for Riserva,
which must also be aged a minimum of 36 months on the lees.
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9. Lison-Pramaggiore DOC
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Established as
a DOC in 1985, incorporating the Tocai di Lison DOC from 1971 and from it
Lison was established as a separate DOCG in 2011. The
principle white grapes are: Chardonnay,
Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Verduzzo.
The principle red grapes are: Four Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, Malbec, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero. Italian varietals include
Refosco. Bianco must include 50–70% Friulano (locally Tai in Veneto),
30–50% Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Verduzzo Friulano.
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10. Lugana DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1967, it produces one white wine
from Trebbiano and no red wines. Spumante (Metodo Classico or
Charmat) and Vendemmia Tardiva must contain a minimum of 90% Trebbiano. Vendemmia
Tardiva and Superiore require a minimum 12
months of ageing. Riserva requires minimum 24 months, including 6 months in
bottle.
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11. Merlara DOC
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Established as a DOC in 2000. The principle white grapes are: Chardonnay,
Friulano, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Welschriesling
(Riesling Italico). The
principle red grapes are: The Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, and Merlot. Italian varietals include Refosco and Raboso. Bianco
must contain at least 50–70% Friulano, a
maximum of 50% Chardonnay, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio,
Riesling, and/or Welschriesling (aka Riesling Italico). Rosso must contain at
least 50–70% Merlot and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, Marzemino, Raboso, and/or Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso.
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12. Montello e Colli Asolani DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1977. The principle white grapes are:
Chardonnay, Glera, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and a local
native variety Bianchetta Trevigiana. The
principle red grapes are: the Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, and Merlot. Italian varietals include Recantina
which is also grown in Calabria. Bianco must contain at least
40–70% Chardonnay with 30–60% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Glera, Manzoni Bianco,
and/or Pinot Bianco. Rosso must contain at least 40–70%
Cabernet Sauvignon; 30–60% Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, and/or Merlot and be
aged minimum 10 months, including 6 months in barrel. Superiore must be aged
for a minimum of 24 months, including 12 months in barrel and 6 months in
bottle. Spumante (Metodo Classico) can be made with Chardonnay or
Pinot Bianco.
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13. San Martino Della Battaglia DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1970, it is located in both Veneto
and Lombardia. The
principle white grape is Friulano. Bianco and Liquoroso must contain
a minimum 80% Friulano. Liquoroso is a dessert wine similar to Port, where
the fermentation is blocked by the addition of alcohol to leave a percentage
of sugar. It can be made by fortification of juice, partially fermented must,
or wine.
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14. Soave DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1968. Recioto di Soave became a
separate DOCG in 1998 and Soave Superiore became a separate DOCGs 2001. The
principle white grape is Garganega. Bianco and Spumante require a
minimum of 70% Garganega and a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di Soave and/or
Chardonnay.
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15. Valdadige / Etschtaler DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1975. The principle white grapes
are: Chardonnay, Garganega, Müller-Thurgau, Nosiola, Pinot Bianco, Pinot
Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The
principle red grapes are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
and Pinot Nero followed by Italian varietals Lagrein, Lambrusco, Schiava and
Teroldego. Bianco must contain a minimum of 20% Chardonnay,
Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and/or Welschriesling and a
maximum of 80% Garganega, Nosiola, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Trebbiano Toscano.
Rosato
must contain a minimum of 50% Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata (Enantio)
and/or Schiava (Gentile, Grigia, and/or Grossa) and a maximum of 50% Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lagrein, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and/or Teroldego.
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16. Valpolicella DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1968. The principle red grape is
Corvina. Rosso must contain 45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone (proportion of
Corvina must equal or exceed that of Corvinone) and 5–30% Rondinella.
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17. Vicenza DOC
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Established as a DOC in 2000. The principle white grapes
are: Chardonnay, Garganega, Manzoni Bianco, Moscato, Pinot Bianco, Pinot
Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The
principle red grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, and Merlot plus Pinot Nero. The primary Italian red varietal is Raboso
(Friularo, Raboso Piave, Raboso Veronese). Bianco and Passito must contain a minimum of 50%
Garganega. Rosso and Rosato must contain a minimum of
50% Merlot. Riserva requires a minimum of 2 years ageing, including 3
months in barrel.
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18. Vini del Piave or Piave DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1971. The principle white grapes
are: Chardonnay, Friulano, Manzoni Bianco, Verduzzo. The principle red grapes
are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and
Merlot. The primary Italian red varietal is Raboso. Rosso must contain a
minimum of 50% Merlot and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Carmenère, and/or Raboso (Piave and/or Veronese) and be aged a
minimum of 4 months.
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DOCGs
There are 20 DOCGs in Veneto.
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1. Amarone
della Valpolicella DOCG
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Established as a DOCG in 2010. The principle red grape is
Corvina. Rosso must contain
45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone and 5–30% Rondinella. After harvest, grapes
must be air-dried to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 14% and
cannot usually be vinified until December 1. It must be aged for a minimum of
2 years. Riserva must be aged for a minimum 4 years.
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2. Bardolino Superiore DOCG
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Established as a DOC in 1968 and it became a DOCG in 2001.
The primary white grape is Corvina. Superiore must contain 35–80%
Corvina and a maximum of 20% Corvinone with 10–40% Rondinella and a maximum
of 15% Molinara.
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3. Colli
Asolani Prosecco/ Asolo Prosecco DOCG
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Established as a DOCG in 2009. The principle white grape
is Glera. Bianco and Spumante Superiore must consist of
a minimum of 85% Glera and a maximum of 15% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera,
and/or Verdiso.
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4. Colli
di Conegliano DOCG
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Established as a DOCG in 2011. The principle white grapes
are: Chardonnay, Glera, Manzoni Bianco, and Pinot Bianco. The principle red
grapes are: Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and a local
Italian varietal, Marzemino. Bianco must contain a minimum of 30%
Manzoni Bianco, a minimum of 30% Pinot
Bianco and/or Chardonnay and a maximum 10% Sauvignon Blanc and/or Riesling. Rosso
must contain a minimum of 10–40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and a minimum
10% Cabernet Sauvignon and a maximum of 20% Manzoni Nero and/or Refosco. It
must be aged a minimum of 24 months, including 6 months in barrel and 3
months in bottle. A dessert wine known as Torchiato di Fregona
must contain a minimum of 30% Glera and a minimum of 25% Boschera and 20%
Verdiso. The grapes must be air-dried for at least 150 days after harvest to
achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 18.0% and cannot usually be
pressed before February 1. It must be aged a minimum of 24 months, including
5 months in bottle. Refrontolo Passito must contain a
minimum of 95% Marzemino. The grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum
potential alcohol level of 14.5% and be aged a minimum of 4 months, including
3 months in bottle. Riserva, must be aged a minimum of
36 months, including 12 months in barrel.
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5. Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio / Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG |
Formerly part of the Colli Euganei DOC, it was established
as a separate DOCG in 2011. The principle white grape is Moscato and there
are no are grapes. Bianco, Spumante and Passito
must consist of a minimum 95% Moscato Giallo with the remainder being other
authorized aromatic white grapes.
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6. Bagnoli Friularo / Friularo di Bagnoli DOCG. |
Formerly part of the Bagnoli di Sopra DOC, it was
established as a separate DOCG in 2011. It has no white grapes and its
principle red grape is Rabosco. Rosso, Vendemmia Tardiva, and Passito
must contain a minimum of 90% Raboso Piave.
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7. Lison DOCG
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Is located in both Veneto and Trentino-Alto Adige. It was
originally part of the Tocai di Lison DOC formed in 1971 and was then
incorporated into the Lison-Pramaggiore DOC in 1985. In 2011 it was
established as a separate DOCG. The principle white grape is Friulano and
there are no red grapes. Bianco must consist of a minimum of
85% Friulano.
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8. Montello
Rosso/Montello DOCG
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Formerly part of the Montello e Colli Asolani DOC it was
established as a separate DOCG in 2011. There are no white grapes and the
principle red grapes are 4 of the Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, and Merlot. Rosso must consist of 40–70%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 30–60% Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, and/or Merlot. It must
be aged for a minimum of 18 months, including 9 months in barrel and 6 months
in bottle. Superiore must be aged for a minimum of 24 months, including
12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle.
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9. Piave Malanotte (Malanotte del Piave) DOCG.
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Formerly part of the Piave DOC, it became a separate DOCG
in 2011. The principle red grape is Raboso. Rosso must contain a
minimum of 70% Raboso Piave with a maximum of 30% Raboso Veronese. The wine
must contain 15–30% dried grapes, which cannot be pressed before December 8th.
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10. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco
DOCG
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Established as a DOC in 1969, it became a DOCG in 2009. The principle white grape is Glera.
Bianco
must contain a minimum 85% Glera, a maximum of 15% Bianchetta Trevigiana,
Perera, and/or Verdiso. Spumante Superiore must contain a
minimum of 85% Glera and a maximum of 15% Bianchetta Trevigiana, Chardonnay,
Perera, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero, and/or Verdiso.
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11. Recioto di Gambellara DOCG
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Formerly part of the Gambellara DOC it became a separate
DOCG in 2008. The
principle white grape is Garganega. Classico and Spumante must be made
from 100% Garganega. After harvest, grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum
potential 14% abv. Classico, must
be aged for a minimum of 10 months.
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12. Recicoto di
Soave DOCG
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Formerly part of the Soave DOC, it became a separate DOCG
in 1998. The primary white grape is Garganega. Spumante and Recioto
must be made from a minimum 70% Garganega and a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di
Soave.
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13. Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
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Established as a DOC in 1968, it became a DOCG in 2010.
The principle red grape is Corvina. There are no white grapes. Spumante must consist of 45–95% Corvina and/or
Corvinone (proportion of Corvina must equal or exceed that of Corvinone) and
5–30% Rondinella. Recioto must consist of 45–95% Corvina and/or Corvinone
(proportion of Corvina must equal or exceed that of Corvinone) and 5–30%
Rondinella. After harvest, grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum
potential alcohol level of 14.0% and cannot usually be vinified until
December 1.
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14. Recicoto di
Soave DOCG
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Formerly part of the Soave DOC, it became a separate DOCG
in 1998. The primary white grape is Garganega. Spumante and Recioto
must be made from a minimum 70% Garganega and a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di
Soave.
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Key
White Grape Varieties
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Bianchetta
Trevigiana
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The name Trevigiana is derived from the province of
Treviso where the grape originated. It is grown in the Trentino-Alto
Adige/Südtirol and Veneto wine regions. It rarely used to make varietal wines
but it is frequently used to add acidity to the sparkling wine Prosecco and
has also been used for vermouth production.
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Durella
Bianca
|
Also known as Durello,
it is a high acid grape that grows predominantly in Veneto (93%). Along with
a nearly extinct red wine grape Brambana it is a parent to the wine grape
Bianchetta Trevigiana.
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Garganega
|
Garganega
is Italy’s 6th most widely planted white grape and is also known as Gargana, Lizzana, and
Ostesona.. It forms the basis of Venetian white wine Soave and is also a
major portion of the blend used to make Gambellara. Garganega is a delicate
white wine with pale color with soft lemon hues notable flavors of almond, lemon
and a light spices.
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Pinot Grigio
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Pinot Grigio
is closely related to Pinot Noir and is characterized by a greyish blue tinge
in the grape skin. Elsewhere it is also known as Grauburgunder, Grauer
Burgunder, Pinot Gris, and Ruländer. In Italy it is primarily grown in
Primarily in the Northeast in Veneto (38%), Friuli–Venezia Giulia (27%), and
Trentino–Alto Adige (17%).
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Friulano
|
It is formerly
known as Tocai Friulano, the “tocai” was dropped after the forming of the EU
in order to be distinguished from Hungary’s Tokaji. It is also grown in Friuli–Venezia
Giulia and is known as Sauvignon Vert in France. It is typically crisp and medium
bodied with flavors of pear, white almond, stone fruit and Cavaillon melon
carried with mineral notes.
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Pinot Bianco
|
A French import, Pinot Bianco was introduced during the
19th century. It is planted across Northern Italy and grows well in Friuli
due to the calcareous marl soils that enhance its aromas of mineral, apricot,
pear and Golden Delicious apple. Typically they have a creamy structure.
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Prosecco (Glera)
|
Glera is a white variety of grape of
Italian origin, which until 2009 was mostly referred to as Prosecco. Glera
is a rather neutral grape variety which is mainly cultivated for use in
sparkling Italian wine styles, frizzante or spumante, from the
various Prosecco DOCG and DOC areas, although still wines also exist. It is
grown mainly in the Veneto region of Italy, traditionally in an area near
Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, in the hills north of Treviso.
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Trebbiano
|
Trebbiano
is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is the quintessential
ingredient in both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that
bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In
Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s
300+ DOCs, the best known of these is
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. It is used in two DOCGs in Lazio, specifically Frascati
Superiore DOCG and sweet Cannellino di Frascati DOCG where it is blended with
Malvasia Bianca.
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Vespaiola
|
The name Vespaiola comes from the Italian word “Vespa” (wasp)
and is derived from the wasps that are attracted to the vines. It is used in
the production of Vespaiolo Superiore in Breganze, but it is best known as
part of the Torcolato, a dessert wine. Torcolato is made from Vespaiola,
Friulano and Garganega grapes that have been affected by Noble Rot and then
dried for 4-5 months. However, Vino
Italiano (published in 2002) and David Lynch state that Torcolato is 100%
Vespaiola.
|
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Key
Red Grape Varieties
|
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Bordeaux Varietals
|
The most common
are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenère.
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Corvina
|
Corvina is a red wine grape noted for its lack of color
and tannins and it is much more likely to appear in blends rather than as a
varietal wine. When produced as a dry table wine, it has the distinctive
flavor of sour cherries, high acidity with light to medium body. It is a key
component of Valpolicella wines and to a lesser extent Bardolino. In their
youth, Corvina-based wines are comparable to Beaujolais, while appassimento
styles are richer and fuller. Synonyms include Corvina Veronese and Cruina,
Cassabria.
|
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Marzemino
|
Also known as Berzamino and Berzemino. It grows in
Trentino–Alto Adige (34%), Lombardia (22%), and Veneto (20%). The wine is
most noted for its mention in the opera Don Giovanni of Wolfgang
Amadeus Mozart (“Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino!”). It is often
used as a blending grape, most often partnering with Barbera, Groppello,
Merlot or Sangiovese.
|
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Molinara
|
Molinara is
known for bright red fruit flavors and floral character, but it is rarely bottled
as a table wine. It is usually to blended with Corvina and Rondinella to
create Valpolicella and Bardolino to add acidity to the wine. This grape is
infrequently blended with Merlot to produce rosé wines.
|
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Negrara
|
In the Valpolicella region, Negrara is a permitted minor
component in Amarone following Corvina (40-70% of the wine), Rondinella
(20-40%) and Molinara (5-25%). Along with Barbera and Sangiovese, Negrara can
make up to 15% of the wine provided the grapes used for the DOC wine are
harvested to a yield no greater than 8 tons per hectare. However, its use is
in decline. In Lombardia on the southern banks of Lake Garda it is also can
be used in the red and rosé wines.
|
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Rondinella
|
Rondinella is
genetically related to Corvina and is somewhat neutral in
flavor. It is a high yielding grape is resistant to disease. While the grape
does not have high sugar levels they do dry out well for use in the
production of appassimento wines and recioto blends.
|
||||
Rossignola
|
Rossignola
is a native grape variety growing in the Veneto as early as 1818. It is a
permitted blending variety in several DOC wines of the Veneto including
Bardolino and Valpolicella. It is a vigorous and high yielding variety that ripens
late which requires winter pruning and green harvesting. The vine is also very
susceptible to a number of viticultural hazards including powdery and downey
mildew, Esca, sour rot and botrytis bunch rot.
|
||||
Tai
|
Until 2007 its name was Tocai Rosso (Red Tocai)
but by law it had to be renamed Tai to differentiate it from the Hungarian
Tocai wine which bore the same original name. It is genetically identical to
the Garnacha of Spain (Grenache in France), as are Cannonau and Vernaccia
Nera, but all of them have developed in relative isolation for centuries. The
primary Italian regions in which it is grown are Veneto (41%), Puglia (30%),
and Marche (18%).
|
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Key
Wine Blends
|
|||||
Soave:
A light, simple white wine from Garganega and Trebbiano
|
|||||
Bardolino
(DOC, DOCG): A light wine made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara, and
with a majority of Corvina.
|
|||||
Valpolicella:
A blend of at least 70% Corvina and up to 30% Molinara and Rondinella
|
|||||
Amarone:
An intense aromatic wine with a very full body made from the partially dried
Corvina (45% – 95%, of which up to 50% could be substituted with Corvinone),
Rondinella (5% – 30%) and up to 25% of other approved red grape varieties. In
December 1990 the wine was assigned DOC status. On 4 December 2009, Amarone
and Recioto della Valpolicella were promoted to the status of DOCG.
|
|||||
Prosecco:
A Frizzante made just outside of Venice, this wine is extremely popular in
the Veneto region.
|
|||||
Notable
Wine Producers
|
|||||
Corte Sant'Alda,
|
Trevisiol
|
||||
Monte del Frá
|
Quintarelli
|
||||
Necotium,
|
Romano dal Forno
|
||||
The Wines
During my study
of Veneto I tasted the following wines:
2007 Trabucchi d'Illasi
Terre
di San Colombano Valpolicella Superiore
This wine is a blend of 40% Corvina Veronese, 40% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella, 10%
Croatina and Oseleta. It
is an opaque wine that is dark
purple to violet with minimal rim variation and moderate viscosity. On the nose
it is clean with moderate intense aromas of black cherries, dried plums, black
licorice, graphite and dried blood. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is
dry with medium+ to high tannins, medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with medium+
alcohol and a medium+ length mineral driven finish. This is a spectacular wine that sells for only $27 at K&L at Redwood City.
2007 Igino Accordini Le Bessole, Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico
DOCG
An opaque red
wine, black-dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with minimal variation
and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of macerated
black berry preserves, black cherries, dried violets and roses, hints of black
pepper and licorice, and damp earth. On the palate it is fruit forward and soft
on entry, it is silky across the mid palate and then it grips on the finish
with medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, it is full bodied with medium+ to high
alcohol and has a medium length finish. A delicious wine, it sells for $43.59 at K&L in Redwood
City.