Italy Unit 9 - Tuscany

 

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Tuscany wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

Along with Emilia-Romana in the north-east, Umbria and Le Marche, in the east Tuscany (Toscana) is part of the “Sangiovese belt” of Central Italy. 

It stretches from the Tyrrhenian Sea in the west to Liguria in the north and Lazio in the south. At almost 9,000 square miles it is the fifth largest region in Italy.

Red, White and Sweet Wines of Tuscany

Tuscany is home to some of the most important grape in Italy and some of the world's most notable wine regions including Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano which primarily made with Sangiovese. Although there are many white grape varietals in Tuscany, the primary is Vernaccia which is the basis of the white Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy’s first white wine DOCG. Tuscany is also known for the dessert wine Vin Santo, made from a variety of the region's grapes.

The Super Tuscan

The development of the Super Tuscan is in responses to two major factors in the Tuscany wine industry. First, the restrictive DOC practices of the Chianti zone prior to the 1990s dictated that Chianti could be composed of no more than 70% Sangiovese and was required to include at least 10% of one of the local white wine grapes. Any winemaker that did not follow these regulations had to use a lower classification - vino da tavola (Table Wine). The second issue in Tuscany was that the Chianti had developed a reputation of poor quality wines being associated with a squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket, called a fiasco.

Then in 1978 marchese Piero Antinori released a “Chianti-style” wine that ignored the DOC regulations, a 1971 Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend known as Tignanello in 1978. Soon thereafter other producers followed in his and a new class of wines, referred to as “Super Tuscans” by wine critics, was developed as a means to create high quality wines outside of the confines of the DOC/DOCG regulations. They were of such high quality that they commanded high prices turning many of them into “cult wines” that were demanding higher prices than some of most well-known Chianti. Rather than rely on name recognition of the Chianti region and the DOCG status, the Super Tuscan producers sought to create a wine brand that would be recognized for its quality by consumers and wine critics.

The Italian classification system was then modified and many of the original Super Tuscans now qualify as DOC or DOCG wines, such as the Bolgheri DOC designation in 1994. But some producers still prefer the declassified rankings or to use the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification of Toscana.

In addition to wines based on the Sangiovese grape, many well-known Super Tuscans are based on a Bordeaux varietals and one of the first successful Super Tuscans based Bordeaux-blend was Sassicaia, by Tenuta San Guido, now classified as Bolgheri DOC.

The title “Super Tuscan” is an unofficial designation of Tuscan wines so you won’t find it on any wine label, so you’ll need to know the top producers listed below.

Climate
Although Tuscany as a whole enjoys a dry, maritime-influenced Mediterranean climate, winters can be harsh and summers can be long and hot. A wide variation in mesoclimates is present throughout the assorted appellations of the region: Montalcino in the southern province of Siena is typically more arid and Montepulciano, further inland, displays a more seasonal, continental climate.
Soils
The soil structure of the Tuscany varies considerably, respective to the width of the region and the changing altitudes of Tuscany’s sloped vineyards. The well-drained slopes of the central hills tend to be albarese, a sandy or stony calcareous soil, interspersed with schist and galestro (crumbly stony marl).
DOCs, DOCGs and IGTs The first Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s to be authorized in Italy were Tuscan. It has the third largest number of DOCGs following Piedmont and Veneto. Tuscany has five sub-categories of IGT wines today.
DOCs Tuscany has 33 DOCs which are as follows:
1. Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario DOC			Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietal is Ansonica. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Ansonica.
2. Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC			Carmignano (car-meen-YA-noh) was established as a DOC in 1994. Vin Santo di Carmignano was established as a separate DOC in 2013. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosato, (Vin Ruspo) and Barco Reale must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese; 10–20% Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon and a maximum of 20% Canaiolo Nero, a maximum of 10% Canaiolo Bianco, Malvasia, and/or Trebbiano Toscano.
3. Bianco dell’ Empolese DOC			Established in 1989. The primary white grape varietals is Trebbiano. Bianco and Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 60% Trebbiano Toscano.
4. Bianco di Pitiglano DOC			Established in 1966. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc plus Italian varietals Ansonica, Grechetto, Greco Bianco, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Trebbiano, Verdello, and Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). Bianco, Spumante and Vin Santo must have a minimum of 40% Trebbiano Toscano; maximum 60% Ansonica, Chardonnay, Grechetto, Greco Bianco, Malvasia Bianca Lunga, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdello, Viognier, and/or Welschriesling (aka Riesling Italico).
5. Bolgheri / Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC			Created as a subzone of the Bolgheri DOC in 1994; established as a separate DOC in 2013. The primary red grape varietal is Cabernet Sauvignon. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC wines can be made only on Marchese Incisa della Rocchetta’s Tenuta San Guido estate.
6. Candia di Colli Apuani DOC			Established in 1981. The primary white grape varietal is Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: Barsaglina, Sangiovese, Vermentino Nero. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 70% Vermentino. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60–80% Sangiovese and a maximum of 20% Merlot.
7. Capalbio DOC			Established in 1999. The primary white grape varietals are Trebbiano, Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano.
8. Colli dell’ Etruria Centrale DOC			Established in 1991. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano The primary red grape varietals is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 70% Malvasia Bianca Lunga and/or Trebbiano. Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese.
9. Colli di Luni DOC			Established in 1989. The primary white grape varietals are: Albarola and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 35% Vermentino and 25–40% Trebbiano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese.
10. Colline Lucchesi DOC			Established in 1986. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc; Italian varietals Grechetto, Greco Bianco, Malvasia, Trebbiano, and Vermentino The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Merlot and Syrah; Italian varietals Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40–80% Trebbiano Toscano; 10–60% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Greco Bianco, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Vermentino. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 45–80% Sangiovese; 10–50% Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, and/or Syrah.
11. Cortona DOC			Established in 1999. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc; Italian varietals Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Italian varietals Malvasia Nera and Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50–60% Syrah and 10–20% Merlot. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of Minimum 70% Grechetto, Malvasia Bianca, and/or Trebbiano Toscano and a maximum of 30% Sangiovese (vinified as a white wine). Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice may consist of any proportions of Malvasia Nera and/or Sangiovese.
12. Elba DOC			Established in 1967. The primary white grape varietals are: Ansonica, Moscato, Trebbiano and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco and Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 10–70% Trebbiano Toscano (locally Procanico) and 10–70% Ansonica and/or Vermentino. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Sangiovese (locally Sangioveto). Spumante must consist of a minimum of 10–70% Trebbiano and 10–70% Ansonica and/or Vermentino. Passito must consist of a minimum of 70% Ansonica, Moscato, Trebbiano, and/or Vermentino.
13. Montecarlo DOC			Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Italian varietals Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, and Vermentino The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah plus Sangiovese. Bianco and Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 30–60% Trebbiano Toscano; 40–70% Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and/or Vermentino. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50–75% Sangiovese; 15–40% Canaiolo Nero, Merlot, and/or Syrah; 10–30% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, and/or Malvasia Nera (di Lecce or di Brindisi).
14. Montecucco DOC			Established as a DOC in 1998; Montecucco Sangiovese was established as a separate DOCG in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Grechetto, Malvasia, Trebbiano and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Trebbiano Toscano and/or Vermentino. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Sangiovese. Rossato must consist of a minimum of 60% Ciliegiolo and/or Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 70% Grechetto, Malvasia, and/or Vermentino. Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice must consist of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese.
15. Monteregio di Massa Maritama DOC			Established in 1994. The primary white grape varietals are: Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Viognier. The primary red grape varietals are: Sangiovese and Syrah. Bianco and Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano and/or Vermentino. Rosso, Rosato and Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese.
16. Montescudaio DOC			Established in 1977. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano.
17. Moscadello di Montalcino DOC			Established in 1985. The primary white grape varietal is Moscato. Bianco and Vendemmia Tardiva (VT) must consist of a minimum of 85% Moscato Bianco. VT must be aged for a minimum of 1 year prior to release.
18. Orcia DOC			Established in 2000. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso and Rossato must consist of a minimum of 60% Sangiovese. Sangiovese must consist of a minimum of 90% Sangiovese with a maximum of 10% Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, or Foglia Tonda, Malvasia Nera, and/or Pugnitello Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia Bianca Lunga and/or Trebbiano.
19. Parrina DOC			Established in 1993. The primary white grape varietals are: Ansonica, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30–50% Ansonica; 20–40% Vermentino; 10–30% Trebbiano Toscano; maximum 20% Chardonnay and/or Sauvignon Blanc. Rosso and Rossato must consist of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 30–50% Ansonica; 20–40% Vermentino; 10–30% Trebbiano Toscano; maximum 20% Chardonnay and/or Sauvignon Blanc.
20. Pomino DOC			Established in 1983. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Trebbiano The primary red grape varietals are: Merlot, Pinot Nero, and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 70% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Rosso and must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese with a maximum of 50% Merlot and/or Pinot Nero. Spumante and Spumante Rosato must consist of a minimum of 70% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Nero and be Metodo Classico.
21. Rosso di Montalcino DOC			Established in 1984. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of 100% Sangiovese.
22. Rosso di Montepulciano DOC			Established in 1989. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of 70% Sangiovese.
23. San Gimignano DOC			Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Syrah and the Italian varietal Sangiovese. Rosso and Rossato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese; maximum 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and/or Syrah. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano Toscano and a maximum of 50% Malvasia del Chianti and a maximum of 20% Vernaccia.
24. Sant’Antimo DOC			Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Malvasia, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and the Italian varietals Malvasia Nera and Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 70% Trebbiano Toscano and/or Malvasia Bianca Lunga.
25. San Torpè DOC			Established as the Bianco Pisano di San Torpè DOC in 1980; name changed in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are:
26. Sovana DOC			Established in 1999. The primary red grape varietals are: Aleatico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, and  Sangiovese. Rosso, Rosso Superiore, Rosso Riserva and Rossato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Aleatico.
27. Val d’ Arbia DOC			Established in 1986. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30–50% Malvasia Bianca Lunga and/or Trebbiano Toscano. Rossato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia and/or Trebbiano.
28. Valdichiana Toscana DOC			Established as the Bianco Vergine Valdichiana DOC in 1972; name changed in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and the only Italian varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 20% Trebbiano Toscano; maximum 80% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Rosso and Rossato must consist of a minimum 50% Sangiovese and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and/or Syrah. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 20% Trebbiano and a maximum 80% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Vin Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia (Bianca di Candia, Bianca Lunga, and/or Istriana) and/or Trebbiano Toscano.
29. Valdinievole DOC			Established in 1976. The primary white grape varietals is Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Canaiolo Nero, Sangiovese. Bianco must have a minimum of 70% Trebbiano Toscano.   Rosso must have a minimum of 70% Canaiolo Nero and/or Sangiovese. Vin Santo must have a minimum of 70% Trebbiano Toscano.
30. Val di Cornia DOC			Established as a DOC in 1990; Rosso della Val di Cornia (Val di Cornia Rosso) and the former subzone Suvereto were established as separate DOCGs in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Ansonica, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Viognier The primary red grape varietals are: Aleatico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Bianco must have a minimum of 50% Vermentino and a maximum of 50% Ansonica, Malvasia Bianca Lunga, Trebbiano Toscano, and/or Viognier. Rossato must have a minimum of 40% Sangiovese and a maximum of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot. Ansonica Passito must have a minimum of 85% Ansonica. Aleatico Passito must have a minimum of 85% Aleatico.
31. Vin Santo del Chianti DOC			Established in 1997. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Vin Santo must have a minimum of 70% Malvasia Bianca Lunga and/or Trebbiano Toscano. Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice must have a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. The DOC has 6 Subzones: 1) Colli Aretini 2) Colli Fiorentini 3) Colline Pisane 4) Colli Senesi 5) Montalbano 6) Montespertoli 7) Rufina
32. Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC			Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. Vin Santo must have a minimum of 60% Malvasia and/or Trebbiano. Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese.
33. Vin Santo di Montepulciano DOC			Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals are: Grechetto, Malvasia, and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals is Sangiovese. Vin Santo must have a minimum of 70% Grechetto (locally Pulcinculo), Malvasia, and/or Trebbiano Toscano and be aged a minimum of 3 years in barrel. Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice must have a minimum of 50% Sangiovese (locally Prugnolo Gentile) and be aged a minimum of 6 years in barrel.
DOCGs Tuscany has 7 DOCGs which are as follows:
1. Brunello di Montalcino DOCG		Established as a DOC in 1966; became a DOCG in 1980. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must be 100% Sangiovese, minimum ageing 4 years, including 2 years in barrel and 4 months in bottle. Riserva must be aged a minimum of 5 years, including 2 years in barrel and 6 months in bottle.
2. Carmignano DOCG		Formerly part of the Chianti DOC Montalbano subzone; became a separate DOC in 1975 and a DOCG in 1991. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must have a minimum of 50% Sangiovese, 10–20% Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon and a maximum of 20% Canaiolo Nero, 10% Canaiolo Bianco, Malvasia, and/or Trebbiano and be aged a minimum of 20 months, including 8 months in barrel. Riserva must be aged a minimum of 3 years, including 12 months in barrel.
3. Chianti DOCG		Established in 1984. It is the most well-known DOCG in Italy, it has 7 subzones: Rufina (Firenze), Colli Fiorentini (Firenze), Montespertoli (Firenze), Montalbano (Prato, Pistoia, Firenze), Senesi (Siena), Colli Aretini (Arezzo), Colline Pisane (Pisa). It consists of 70-100% Sangiovese. Maximum 30% combined other grapes authorized for Toscana. Maximum 10% white grapes. Maximum 15% combined Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It may not be released until March 1 of the year following the harvest. The maximum yields in Chianti is 9 tons/ha, 63 hl/ha.
4. Chianti Classico DOCG		Established as a subzone of the Chianti DOC in 1967, which became a DOCG in 1984; Chianti Classico became a separate DOCG in 1996. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese and be aged a minimum of 1 year. Riserva must minimum be aged a minimum of 24 months, including 3 months in bottle. Gran Selezione must minimum be aged a minimum of minimum 30 months, including 3 months in bottle.
5. Morellino di Scanscano DOCG		Established as a DOC in 1978; became a DOCG in 2006. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Sangiovese and must be aged for a minimum 4–5 months prior to release; Riserva requires a minimum 2 years, including 1 year in barrel.
6. Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG		Established as a DOC in 1966; became a DOCG in 1993. The primary white grape varietal is Vernaccia. Bianco must be a minimum of 85% Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Riserva must be aged a minimum of 11 months, including 3 months in bottle.
7. Vino Noble di Montepulciano DOCG		Established as a DOC in 1966; became a DOCG in 1981. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese (locally Prugnolo Gentile) and be aged a minimum of 2 years, including either 12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle or 18 months in barrel. Riserva must be aged a minimum of 3 years, including 12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle.
Key White Grapes and Local Varieties
French Varieties		Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier
Albarola		In Tuscany it is also known as Erbarola and Erbarola Trebbiana and it is also grown in Cinque Terre, Liguria. There are four distinct clones (VCR 3, VCR 14, VCR 17 and CVT Kihlgren). It tends to produce aromas of fresh citrus, almonds, with a minty-salinity note. According to Ian D’Agata, the Kihlgren clone produces “smoother and richer wines with a more obvious tropical presence”(Native Wine Grapes of Italy, pg. 175).
Aleatico		Aleatico is also known as Red Moscatel, Leatico, and Aglinao. The origin of the name is debated but it is thought to be native to Tuscany, although some researchers point to a Greek origin for the ancient variety. Aleatico shares close genetic ties to Lacrima di Morro d’Alba and Moscatello Nero and it is a parent grape to Moscato Bianco. It is also grown in Lazio (Aleatico di Gradoli), Marche (Pergola), Puglia (Aleatico di Puglia) and Sicily and is used to produce dry red, rosé and passito wines. It tends to produce lightly aromatic floral red wines that are similar to a black muscat.
Ansonica		Also known as Inzolia in Sicily, where it is most famous traditionally as an ingredient in the fortified Marsala wines. It is a rare example of a naturally tannic white grape and it has low acidity. In Tuscany it is planted in the coastal Maremma, as well as on a small island 10 miles offshore called Giglio. In Tuscany, Elba Ansonica produces medium to full bodied whites wines of deep golden hue with aromas of yellow apples, herbs and dried apricots with chewy sensation and saline flavors on the palate.
Grechetto Bianco		Often abbreviated as Grechetto, it is also known as Grechetto di Todi, Grechetto Spoletino, Greco Spoletino, Greco Bianco di Perugia. It is grown in Lazio, and Tuscany, and I more well known in Umbria.
Greco Bianco		It originated in Greece DNA and profiling has proven that Greco Bianco is genetically identical to Asprinio, which is found in along the coast of Campania and in Calabria.
Malvasia		Also known as Malmsey, Malvasier, Malvazia, Monemvasia. It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years. Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia. It is grown all over Italy,
Trebbiano		Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+ DOCs.
Vernaccia		The root of the name Vernaccia translate to "vernacular" and can apply to any local grape. Consequently the name has been used throughout Italy to refer to a number of unrelated grapes including as the Sardinian varieties used in the Sherry-like wine Vernaccia di Oristano, the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol red wine grape known as Vernatsch or the black grape used in the red sparkling wine of the Marche Vernaccia di Serrapetrona. For this uniot we are interested in the grape used to produce the Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Key Red Grapes and Local Varieties
French Varieties		Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah
Ancellotta		The grape's homeland is Emilia-Romagna, in Tuscany it is used to add color to Sangiovese.
Barsaglina		It is thought to have come from the hills that straddle the border between Tuscany and Liguria. It is also known as Massareta, Massa is the capital of the province of Massa e Carrara.
Canaiolo / Canaiolo Nero		Also known as Caccione, Tindillaro, and Uva Fosca until the late 19th Century it was the main grape of the Chianti blend. It is still grown today throughout central Italy, and used as a blending grape in a wide range of Sangiovese-based wines.
Ciliegiolo		Named after the Italian word for 'cherry' it is usually a minor component of traditional blends such as Chianti, but it also produced as a varietal wine. It s related to Sangiovese and Calabrese di Montenuovo. It is also known as Aleatico di Spagna, Ciliegino, Ciliegiolo di Spagna, Ciliegiuolo and Ciriegiuolo Dolce.
Colorino		This grape is primarily used to add color (hence the name) to wines, particularly lighter-hued Sangiovese-based wines of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It tends to have elevated tannin levels but is aromatically challenged. It is also known as Abrostine, Colore, and Raverusto.
Foglia Tonda		The name of the grape means “round leaf” and it has deep pigmentation and like Colorino, it is used to add color wines, particularly lighter Sangiovese. It is found mostly in Southern Tuscany and is making a comeback form obscurity in Siena.
Malvasia Nera		Black Malvasia, is an aromatic, thin-skinned variety that can be used for dry, sparkling and sweet wines, as well as specialty passito and rosé styles. Its juice ranges in color from light to a deep ruby-red, producing wines that are light-to-medium bodied with flavors of cherries and plums. Until the 1990s, it was common practice to blend Malvasia Nera with Sangiovese as it adds notes of chocolate to but now it has been mostly been replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Mammolo		The name of this grape means “Violet” in Italian. It is of Tuscan origin and has historically been used to add floral notes and about 5-10% is found in many wines. It ahs the most influence in Montepulciano.
Montepulciano		Although this grape may have originated in the Tuscan town of Montepulciano, it is now more commonly found in Abruzzo.
Pugnitello		Pugnitello means “little fist” in Italian and refers to the vine’s small, tight bunches of berries, which resemble a fist. It is an ancient and rare red-grape variety native to Tuscany. It is used to produce mostly single-varietal wines under the IGT Toscana classification. They are deep purple-red in color and show a complex mix of sweet and savory aromas of cherry, blackberry, with tanned leather and earth.
Sangiovese		Sangiovese derives its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove and it has several synonyms. In Chianti Classico it may be referred to as Sangiovetto, in Montalcino it is called Brunello, in Montepulciano it is called Prugnello Gentile and along the coast in Maremma it is called Morellino. "Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones which he broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. The Sangiovese Grosso family includes the clones growing in the Brunello region as well as the clones known as Prugnolo Gentile and Sangiovese di Lamole that was grown in the Greve in Chianti region. Sangiovese wines in Tuscany tend to be light in color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines. Sangiovese is the principal red grape in the following DOCGs: Chianti, Chianti Classico, Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano, and Montecucco Sangiovese. It is the sole red grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.
Vermentino Nero		Vermentino Nero is the dark-skinned form of the more widely known white Vermentino and it is grown almost exclusively in Tuscany. It is also known as Rolle, Rollo and Pigato.
Top Chianti Classico Riserva Producers
1. Antinoir		9. Fonterutoli
2. Badia A Coltibuono		10. Fontodi
3. Catellare		11. Monsanto
4. Castello del Paneretta		12. Rocca Di Costagnoli
5. Castello di Ama		13. Ruffino
6. Castello di Volpaia		14. San Felice
7. Fattoria Di Felsina		15. Villa Cafaggio
8. Fattoria Selvapiana
Top Brunello di Montalcino Producers
1. Altesino		10. Ferro Di Buroni Carlo
2. Argiano		11. Gorelli
3. Biondi-Santi		12. I Due Cipressi
4. Casanova Dei Neri		13. Il Pogginoe
5. Casanuovo Della Cerbaie		14. La Fortuna
6. Casse Base		15. La Serena
7. Cerbaiona Di Diego Molinari		16. Pieve Di Santa Restituta
8. Ciacci Piccolomni D’Argona		17. Poggio Antico
9. Conti Constanti
Top Super Tuscan Producers
Proprietary Name	Producer			Primary Grape
Cepparello	Isole e Olena			Sangiovese
Coltassala	Castelo di Volpaia			Sangiovese
Flaccianello	Fontodi			Sangiovese
Fontalloro	Felsina			Sangiovese
Grosso Senese	Il Palazzino			Sangiovese
Il Sodaccio	Montevertine			Sangiovese
I Sodi di San Niccolò	Castellare			Sangiovese
Le Pergole Torte	Montevertine			Sangiovese
Masseto	Ornellaia			Merlot
Monte Antico	Monte Antico			Sangiovese
Olmaia	Col d’Orcia			Cabernet Sauvignon
Ornellaia	Ornellaia			Cabernet Sauvignon
Percalo	San Giusto			Sangiovese
Sammarco	Castello del Rampolla			Cabernet Sauvignon
Sassicaia	Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta			Cabernet Sauvignon
Solaia	Antinori			Cabernet Sauvignon
Solatio Basilica	Villa Cafaggio			Sangiovese
Summus	Castello Banfi			Sangiovese
Terrine	Castello del Paneretta			Canaiolo
Tignello	Antinori			Sangiovese
Tinscvil	Monsanto			Sangiovese
Vigna d’Alceo	Castello del Rampolla			Cabernet Sauvignon

The Wines

While studying Tuscany I tasted the following wines:

2013 Panizzi Vernaccia Di San Gimignano DOCG

This is a clear white wine, pale straw in color with just a slight tint of green around the edge, it has low concentration at the core to a watery rim with low viscosity. On the nose it has medium intense aromas of white peaches, lemon, lemon rind, white flowers and salty sea breeze. On the palate it is dry with low tannins (which is odd for a white wine), it has medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with a slight creamy texture, it has just a hint of a salty minerality and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $15.99 at K&L in Redwood City.

2011 Antonio Camillo Ciliegiolo Vigna Vallerana Alta - Maremma Toscana DOC
 

This wine is 100% Ciliegiolo (pronounced Chee-lee-eh-joh-loh). It is an opaque red wine, dark black at the core to violet at the rim with moderate viscosity. On the nose it has moderate- intense aromas of black cherry, plum, roses, hints of fresh sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and spice. On the palate the nose is confirmed with additional notes of sour cherries, it is soft on entry with medium tannins, medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied and has a moderate length spicy finish. The relationship of this grape to Sangiovese is clear as it would easily mistaken for one in a blind tasting. It is well balanced and absolutely cries out to be enjoyed with food. This wine sells for $26.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2010 PoggioargentierA Capatosta - Morellino di Scansano DOCG

This wine is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo and 5% Alicante. The grapes come from 40-year-old vines on the coastal hills of southern Tuscany, Maremma, It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet a the rim with minimal variation, and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of black cherries, violets, dark chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco with hints of cedar, clove, and spice. On the palate it has additional notes of sour cherries, is dry with medium tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a moderate length finish. In many ways it is very similar to the previous wine, but more complex. It is a well-balanced wine that begs for food, it sells for $32.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2010 Campo Amore Bolgheri DOC

A moderately priced "Super Tuscan", this wine is a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet the rim with minimal variation, and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of sour cherries, black currants, blackberries, licorice, hints of tar and leather with subtle notes of damp earth. On the palate it is dry but fruit forward with medium tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a moderate length spicy finish. Although this is a Bordeaux style wine there is still something very Italian about it that I couldn’t quite put my finger on. So, I looked at the winemaker’s notes for this wine and then compared it to numerous winemaker notes for California Bordeaux style wines (Meritage) and what I found is that they ALL use (anywhere from 35% to 100%) new French oak whereas the 2010 Campo Amore Bolgheri was made with 1-year-old French barrels. Consequently, what is not in this Italian Bordeaux style wine that is typically in found California Bordeaux style wines are notes of vanilla, coconut or that soft creamy feel. This wine sells for $20 at K&L in Redwood City.

2010 Avignonesi Vino Noble Di Montepulciano DOCG

This wine is 100% Sangiovese. It is an opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core to violet at the rim with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of cherries, raspberries, chocolate, with a hint of fresh roses and spice. On the palate it is dry with firm medium+ tannins, medium+ mouth-watering acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $24.99 at K&L in Redwood City.

2009 Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG

This wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Malvasia Nera, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of dusty black cherries, plum, baker’s chocolate, tobacco, mint, dried rose petals, licorice, and spice. On the palate it is dry with medium+ tannins, medium+ mouth-watering acidity, medium body and a moderate length spice and tobacco driven finish. This wine displays everything you’re looking for in a Chianti Classico, it is well balanced a very complex with layers of fruit, earth and spice. This wine sells for $36.99 at K&L in Redwood City.

2009 Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

The word Brunello translates roughly as 'little dark one', and is the local vernacular name for Sangiovese Grosso, the large-berried form of Sangiovese which grows in the area. Montalcino is a Tuscan hilltop village 20 miles (30 km) south of Siena.

This wine is made from 100% Sangiovese, it is a clear bright ruby red with medium concentration to garnet at the rim and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of cherry liqueur, fresh roses, with hints of clove and spice. On the palate it is dry but juicy and fruit forward with silky moderate tannins and medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $34.99 at K&L in Redwood City.

2011 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri DOCG

This wine is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with minimal rim variation and medium + viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of blackberries, blueberries, black currants, vanilla, clove and allspice. It is dry with refined medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity and moderate length finish. I opened this wine with some friends on December 31^st, New Year’s Eve, 2014 and the aromas were extremely tight so it was somewhat disappointing. The following day I sampled the remainder and it had finally opened up and while it was very enjoyable it clearly was too young and needed more time to age to reach its full potential. So, if you are going to open a bottle I highly recommend decanting it for a few hours before drinking it.