Italy Unit 7 - Liguria

 

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Liguria wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

The Liguria region of Italy consists of a 350 kilometer (over 200 mile) narrow band of mountainous coastland south of Piedmont with the Alps and Provence to the west, the Apennine Mountains and Emilia-Romagna to the east and a small border shared with Tuscany in the south-east along the Ligurian sea.

Although there are 100 grape varieties in this region, Liguria is generally known for its domestic white wines and no international white grape varieties are widely grown. The most important white grapes are Bosco, Pigato, and Vermentino. No international red grape varieties are widely grown in Liguria. Well-known Italian red varietals such as Sangiovese and Dolcetto as well as local red varieties including Rossese, and Ciliegiolo.

Following Valle d’ Aosta, Liguria is the second-lowest wine producing region in Italy. It consists of approximately 14,800 acres (6000 ha) of vineyards, of which just over 1,235 acres (500 ha) are classified as DOCs. Liguria's average annual wine production is about 10 million liters (19th in volume among the regions) and about 50% classified as DOC and 9% IGT, with no DOCGs. There are currently over 2,500 vintners, who bottle over 30,105 hectoliters (around 795,290 gallons) of wine per year. There are over 400 producers of IGT, who produce around 3,548 hectoliters (around 93,729 gallons) per year. That is a total of about 2.5 million bottles (208K cases) per year.

Given its limited wine production, little Ligurian wine is exported to North America but fortunately I was able to find several bottles to sample.

Climate
Liguria has a Mediterranean climate.
DOCs Liguria has no DOCGs, 3 IGTs, and 8 DOCs which are as follows:
1. Cinque Terre DOC	Established as a DOC in 1973. Its primary white grape is Bosco, with no red grapes. Bianco and Sciacchetrà must consist of a minimum 40% Bosco and a maximum of 40% Albarola and/or Vermentino. Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà is a sweet white passito wine that is intensely colored, golden-yellow in their youth and turning to amber over the years. They offer aromas of honey and white blossoms, with hints of citrus. The must be aged for 3 full years prior to commercial release.
2. Colli di Luni DOC	Established as a DOC in 1989, it is in both Liguria and Tuscany. The principle white grapes are Albarola and Vermentino. The principle red grape is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 35% Vermentino and 25–40% Trebbiano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of a 50% Sangiovese. Riserva, requires a minimum of 2 years ageing before release.
3. Colline di Levanto DOC	Established as a DOC in 1995. The principle white grapes are Albarola, Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Vermentino and 20% Albarola.  Rosso must consist of a minimum of a 50% Sangiovese and a minimum of 20% Ciliegiolo.
4. Golfo del Tigullio–Portofino / Portofino DOC	Established as a DOC in 1997. The principle white grapes are Bianchetta Genovese, Moscato, Scimiscià, Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Ciliegiolo and Dolcetto. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Bianchetta Genovese and/or Vermentino.  Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of  60% Ciliegiolo and/or Dolcetto. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 60% Bianchetta Genovese and/or Vermentino. Passito must consist of a minimum of 60% Bianchetta Genovese and/or Vermentino. Moscato Passito must consist of 100% Moscato.
5. Pornassio / Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC	Established as a DOC in 2003. The principle red grape is Dolcetto, known locally as Ormeasco. Rosso, Passito, Sciac-trà (Rosato) must consist of a minimum of 95% Dolcetto. There are no white wines.
6. Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC	Established as a DOC in 1989. The principle white grapes are Moscato, Pigato and Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Alicante, Rossese. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of 100% Moscato Bianco
7. Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC	Established as a DOC in 1972. The principle red grapes is Rossese. Rosso must consist of a minimum 95% Rossese. Superiore must be aged a minimum of 1 year.
8. Val Polcevera DOC	Established as a DOC in 1999. The principle white grapes are Albarola, Bianchetta Genovese, and Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Ciliegiolo, Dolcetto, and Sangiovese. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum 60% Ciliegiolo, Dolcetto, and/or Sangiovese. Spumante di Qualità and Passito must consist of a minimum 60% Albarola, Bianchetta Genovese, and/or Vermentino.
Key White Grape Varieties
Albarola	A native to Liguria and a key component in the dry white blends of Cinque Terre, the Albarola grape can develop honey, perfume and floral aromas. Since the terrain is steep, viticulture is always carried out by hand and yields are low – the wines, consequently, can be expensive. The sweet wines can age well but the dry style are best consumed within three years of harvest.
Bianchetta Genovese	A native to Liguria. Bianchetta, in Italian means “little white”. The “Genovese” part of its name refers to the city of Genova (Genoa), just a few miles west of the district of Tigullio, and the Genova province in which it is grown. The classic wine style into which Bianchetta Genovese grapes is made is dry, white, refreshing and aimed at the local rather than an international market.
Bosco	Sometimes bottled as a varietal wine but it is more commonly blended with  Vermentino and Albarola grapes. The wines have the tendency to oxidize prematurely, which can diminish Bosco of its lemon scents and noticeably grassy qualities so the wines are best consumed within 2 years of harvest.
Pigato / Vermentino	Pigato means “spotted” from the appearance of the ripe grapes DNA evidence proves that Pigato, is the same varietal as Vermentino, and is known as Favorita in Piedmont and Rolle in Provence, France. It tends to have high acidity and aromas of peach, lemon peel, dried herbs and a saline minerality. In Liguria, Pigato is the principal variety in white wines from the Colli di Luni.
Scimiscià	Synonyms are Çimixâ, Frate Pelato (Liguria), Genovese (Corsica), Raisin Génois, Rossala Bianca (Corsica) and Simixà. The sugar content and acidity are normally higher than locally cultivated vines like Vermentino and Bianchetta Genovese. There are 3.5 hectares in Sicilia but most of it is planted in Liguria.
Trebbiano	Although it is grown in Liguira, the largest concentrations are in Emilia Romagna (30%), Puglia (19%), and Abruzzo (17%).
Key Red Grape Varieties
Alicante	Known locally as Granaccia. Along with Cannonau, Tai Rosso, and Vernaccia Nera, Alicante is another Italian descendant of Garnacha (Grenache), brought to Italy from Spain by the Aragonese in the 15th to 18th centuries. Widespread, especially in the center and south, with the largest concentrations in Toscana (32%) and Sicilia (20%).
Ciliegiolo	The grape's name comes from an Italian word for cherry, a fruit which Ciliegiolo wines resemble both in color and aroma, and it is also known as Morettone. It is widespread in central and southern Italy, with the largest concentrations in Toscana (25%) and Puglia (24%).
Ormeasco	A local clone of the Dolcetto grape it is better known in Piedmont. In Liguria it tends to make brighter-colored wines with a more intense, perfumed bouquet and sweeter tannins, while still maintaining a distinct bitter characteristic. Ormeasco is considered a 'mountain wine' in Pornassio, as this area has steep slopes reach up to 2625 ft (800m) above sea level. Most red varieties struggle to grow in this kind of terrain, as they must contend with premature autumnal frosts but this grape tends to ripen early, giving it the ability to thrive.
Rossese	A mildly aromatic red grape variety thought to have been brought to Liguria, northern Italy from southern France. It is primarily grown in Liguria (49%) and Toscana (31%) and blended with Sangiovese.
Sangiovese	The grape is related to another grape grown in Liguria, Ciliegiolo, as well as Aleatico grown in Puglia. It derives its name from the Latin sanguis Jovis, "the blood of Jove". Although it is grown in Liguria, it is more well-known in central Italy from Romagna down to Lazio, Campania and Sicily.

The Wines

While studying Liguria I tasted the following wines:

2012 La Ginestraia Pigato Via Maestra Riviera Ligure Di Ponente

A clear white wine, moderately intense golden-yellow with a watery meniscus and moderate viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of peaches, canned pear, golden apples, Myer lemon, and white flowers. On the palate it has flavors of dried peaches, pineapple, golden apples and a distinct salty minerality on the finish. It is dry with medium+ acidity, moderate body, and a medium+ length finish. An excellent alternative to the ocean of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc on the market. It sells for $19.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City.

2012 Bruna Maje Pigato Riviera Ligure Di Ponente DOC

A clear white wine, pale straw in color, with a slight green tint around the edges with a watery meniscus at the rim and moderate viscosity. On the nose it has subtle aromas of melon, lime, lemon, celery and a touch of dried parsley. On the palate it has flavors of lemon-lime, melon rind and a touch of salty minerality. It is dry with medium+ acidity, it is light bodied and has a moderate length finish.

This wine loses a lot of character and aromas at anything below room temperature. So I preferred the 2012 La Ginestraia Pigato Via Maestra Riviera Ligure Di Ponente... and it was $10 cheaper! I bought it for $28 Vin Vino Wine in Palo Alto

2013 Giacomelli Vermentino Colli Di Luni DOC

A clear white, wine golden in color, moderate intensity with a watery meniscus and low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of bruised apples, melon, canned pears, lemon and a hint of sea breeze. On the palate it has dried peaches, oxidized apples, dried pineapple, and a distinct salty minerality on the finish. It is dry with medium+ acidity, moderate body, and a medium length finish. This wine is very similar to the 2012 La Ginestraia Pigato which is not surprising since Vermentino and Pigato are the same grape. This wine sells for $18 Vin Vino Wine in Palo Alto.

2013 Cooperativa Agricola Cinque Terre Vendemmia, Cinque Terre DOC

A blend of 60% Bosco, 20% Vermentino, and 20% Albarola. It is a clear white wine, bright gold in color, medium intensity with medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of pineapple, very ripe melon, golden apples, and a hint of sea breeze. On the palate it has additional notes of tangy apricot, dried peach, pear and a salty minerality. It is dry with medium+ acidity, medium- bodied and has a moderate length finish. A lively wine, more complex than the previous wines and well balanced. This wine sells for 21.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City.