The first red
wine we sampled in the tasting group on April 13th (after the
Sancerre, Chablis, Albariño, Pinot Grigio and Riesling) was a Cabernet
Franc.
The Grape: Cabernet Franc
It is believed
that Cabernet Franc originated in southern France and made its way to the north
sometime in the 17th century. It is one of the parent grapes, along with
Sauvignon Blanc, to Cabernet Sauvignon. While Cabernet Franc is known as one of
the 6 Bordeaux varietals (where it is also known as Bouchet), it is only a second player to Merlot in any right bank
blend. But in the Loire Valley (particularly in the Anjou, Bourgueil, Chinon,
and Saumur-Champigny regions) Cabernet Franc is a star player. In Chinon
Cabernet Franc is known as “Beurton”- pronounced “bur-tawn” with a slightly
rolled “r”. It is also the major red grape in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (where it is known locally as Breton) where it produces both red wine and rosé wines (about
2%). It is also an important grape in the Bergerac and Madiran AOCs. Cabernet
Franc buds and ripens about two weeks earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon so it
tends to fair better in cooler climates and vintages. But is also tends to have
more green vegetal notes.
The Region: Chinon
The Chinon AOC is
located in the Touraine Region in the heart of the Loire Valley. The vineyards
of the region cover the relatively steep banks of the Vienne as well as the
less steep slopes running northward from the hills above Chinon to the Loire.
The vineyards consist almost entirely of erosional scree and gravels on top of
rather hard Turonian limestone. The red and rosé wines (about 2-5% of
production) are made from Cabernet Franc with an allowance of 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon. There is also a small amount of white wine produced from Chenin
Blanc.
The Winery: Domaine Charles Joguet
Domaine Charles
Joguet was founded by Charles Jogue. Jacques Genet became his partner in 1985
and has been the current owner for over a decade. When they became partners
Jacques Genet added to the business a couple of acres of vines on the Monplaisir
hillside and the land he owned in Beaumont-en-Véron, where they subsequently
planted two dozen acres of Cabernet Franc. They also created a farming company
(Société Civile d'Exploitation Agricole, SCEA) in order to further develop the
previous efforts of Charles Joguet.
The Wine
The 2011 Charles
Joguet “Les Petites Roches” Chinon is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the
core to ruby at the rim with medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate
intense aromas of dark juicy plums, jammy blackberries, cassis, clove,
cinnamon, canned black olives, coffee grounds, ash, dried tobacco, tobacco
leaves, a touch of roasted green bell pepper, and hints of spice. It is dry
with medium to medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity, medium+ alcohol and medium+ length
finish. This wine retails for about $21 per bottle.
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