When
I first started visiting wineries back in the 1990’s, although I knew very
little about wine I had a strategy to train my brain to learn the various types
of wine and how they reflected the land from which they came.
First,
I only tasted wines that were 100% of a particular varietal (Cabernet, Merlot,
Syrah etc.). In order to learn about the particular grapes I needed to catalog
the distinctives of the various varietals so I didn’t want to confuse my brain
by tasting a lot of blends.
Second,
I would only taste wines that came from the location where I was sampling the
wine. I wanted to learn how the particular grape reflected the terroir of the vineyard
and develop an association of the wine with the land. In other words, I didn’t
want to taste a Napa Valley Cabernet made at a winery in the Santa Cruz
Mountains.
Once
I had a fairly decent catalog of wines and California regions in my brain I
began to sample blends (particularly Bordeaux-style blends) as well as the varietals
that went into them so I searched for wineries that bottled 100% Cab Franc,
100% Petite Verdot, 100% Merlot, 100% Malbec etc. While it is becoming more
common today to find such bottlings it wasn’t the case when I first began
exploring the wine country. By tasting these wines by themselves I then tried
to figure out what they contributed to blends as I asked myself, “What would 5%
of this Petite Verdot contribute to a Meritage blend?”
I
also paid attention to the various styles that winemakers used such as the
types of oak, the various types of yeasts, the various clones that were
planted, whether or not they used stainless steel tanks, and whether or not the
wine went through malolatic fermentation.
As I
sampled wines I asked myself, and often times the winemaker or at least a
knowledgeable server at a winery, a series of questions such as:
What
makes this varietal and region distinguishable from others? If I were tasting
this wine blind, what is it about this wine that would tell me, “I’m a Pinot
Noir from Carneros!” (and not a Pinot from the Russian River) or “I’m a barrel
fermented Chardonnay from Santa Barbara!” (and not a stainless steel fermented,
barrel aged Chardonnay from Sonoma)?
It
was my study of winemaking in college in combination with my travels in the
wine countries around California that gave me the background into understanding
how wine was made which then enabled me to retro-engineer a wine in a
blind tasting. I had to learn to to figure out from all of its characteristics
(fruit, floral, spice, earth, and vegetal qualities as well as weight, tannin,
acidity etc.) what type of grape(s) were used, what type of climate they were
grown in and the process that was used to make the wine.
Needless
to say it has taken a lot of time, a lot of money and a lot of traveling.
So,
now that I am focusing on non-California wines in this blog I am beginning the
process again without the advantage of actually traveling to the place where
the wines are from or being able to actually interact with the winemaker. All I
have are books, videos and other resources from the Internet as well as classes
that I’ll soon be taking in the Sommelier training. And my only sources for
wine will be wine shops, grocery stores and a number of wine bars around the
San Francisco Bay Area that have really good by-the-glass programs and pour
international wines.
I
also want to focus my attention on varietals that are not as common in
California or may not be grown here at all. So, my first wine is one that is seldom
discussed and it is from a land that is not well known – a Grüner Veltliner
from
Hungary.
While Grüner
Veltliner (GV)
represents approximately one-third of all wine grapes grown in Austria there
are only about 5 wineries in California that produce it and I haven’t been to
any of them. I have only sampled this varietal a couple times and it was
probably in the “World of Wines” class in college and one of the WSET classes
so I don’t have a large catalog of GVs in my brain.
Also,
Hungary is primarily known for a red wine called Egri Bikavér
(“Bull’s
Blood”), which I have only tasted once, and a sweet white wine called Tokaji,
which I have had a few times - they’re sweet like Sauternes but have a distinct
musty character to them. So, I have never had a GV from Hungary.
The other day I was shopping at Trader Joes and (as I usually do) I glance at
the wine section to see if there is any new or interesting when a tall slender green
bottle catches my eye and the price tag says $5.
“What-the-heck,
couldn’t hurt…” I thought, so I grabbed a bottle.
It
is a 2011 Grüner Veltliner
from the Floriana winery, distributed by Latitude Wines, Inc. It is a dry, light bodied
white wine with medium+ acidity with medium intense notes of lemon-lime,
melon and green apple.
But those
characteristics could describe a number of different wines, so what makes this
distinguishable from other white wine varieties?
After the fruit
qualities pass through the senses it delivers very distinct aromas of spicy white pepper and subtle licorice root notes. After taking a
sip these are picked up not on the entry nor on the mid-palate but in the
finish, particularly if I take a deep breath after I swallow or spit the wine
out.
So, in the future if I am ever tasting a white wine blind and it has citrus aromas with apples and I am listing in my brain all the various possible wines, if I can pick up white pepper in the back ground then I know I can eliminate wines such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Reisling or Sauvignon Blanc and consider the pssibility of spicer white wines such as Gewürztraminer (which also tend to have lychee notes) or Grüner Veltliner.
However,
while this wine is tasty I can’t really assess the quality of the wine as I
don’t have enough GVs in my brain to form a basis for comparison. But, the wine
does seem rather simple, the finish is short to medium in length and there is
nothing about it that excites me. That being said, it was a good learning
experience and for only $5 I think it beats countless other bargain priced
wines on the market.
My
next few posts will be on imported wines sampled at a wine bar in Danville and
another in Palo Alto California, so stay tuned!
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