Italy Unit 2 - Trentino-Alto Adige

 

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

The two autonomous provinces which make up the Italian region known as Trentino-Alto Adige region are Trentino in South which predominately speaks Italian and Alto Adige in the north where German is the dominant language. In English, Trentino-Alto Adige is also known as Trentino-South Tyrol and in German it is referred to as Trentino-Südtirol.

Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtiro is the most northern region of Italy bordering Austria and Switzerland. It is a mountainous region and it is estimated that only about 15% of the land here is suitable for agriculture. The territory stretches from the Adamello-Brenta range and the peaks of Ortles and Cevedale to the Dolomites and Rhaetian Alps.

 

The Valdadige DOC includes Trentino-Alto Adige and Verona in Veneto, but the majority of wines are released under the separate Trentino DOC and Alto-Adige DOC / Südtiroler DOC.

The Wines of Trentino

Trentino DOC is the general DOC for a wide range of varietal wines produced in region including red Schiava (Vernatsch in German), barrel-fermented Chardonnay, and sparkling wine. Local varietals include Marzemino and Teroldego.

The Wines of Alto Adige

The Bassa Atesena is the southern most wine growing region in Alto Adige. The western half is famous for Gewürztraminer grown around the village of Tramin and is an upcoming area for Pinot Noir.

Just north of Bassa Atesena is Oltradige which is a key region for Pinot Grigio as well as Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc, especially around the town of Oppiano.

The Lago di Caldaro DOC (Lake Caldaro DOC) encompasses an area around Lake Caldaro and extends down into northern Trentino. The vineyards right around the lake are also considered a subzone of the Alto Adige DOC. The wines made from grapes grown there may be labeled Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro DOC. The area produces light, red wines consisting of at least 85% Schiava, along with small portions of Pinot Nero and Lagrein.

The Terlano DOC is located at the foot of Mount Tschoggel. The south-facing slopes provide extended exposure to the sun and the porphyry rocks absorb the heat which warms the soil warm keeping the roots dry and rot-free. Terlano’s cooperatives produce the majority of Adgige’s wines. Terlaner Bianco is a white blend consisting of a minimum of 50% Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay, with the remainder Riesling, Riesling Italico, Sauvignon, Sylvaner, Muller Thurgau. Both dry and sweet Passito and Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest) versions are available, as well as a dry Spumante.

To the north-west are the growing areas of Merano and Val Venosta which produces a small amount of wine as the valley floor is dominated by apple orchards which produce 10% of Europe’s apples. In the center of the region is the capital city of Bolzano which is surrounded by vineyards of Lagrein (pronounced LAH Grine) and Schiava (pronounced Skee-AH-Vah).

North-east of Bolzano is Chiusa, home to The Chiusa Wine Trail which produces the Germanic grape varieties of the Isarco Valley such as Sylvaner, Riesling, Veltliner and Kerner.

Climate
The region has a cool continental climate which favors white wine production and makes red wine production difficult.
IGTs
Delle Venezie, Mitterberg, Vallagarina, Vigneti delle Dolomiti and Weinberg Dolomiten
DOCs There are 8 DOC zones in the region, although much of the classed wine comes from the two large zones of Trentino and Alto Adige DOC. As of 2000 over 75% of the region’s production is of DOC quality.
1. Alto Adige DOC / Südtirol DOC			Established as a DOC in 1975. The principal white grape varieties are: Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Kerner, Moscato, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sylvaner Verde, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principal red grape varieties are: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lagrein, Malvasia Nera, Merlot, Moscato Rosa, Pinot Nero, and Schiava.
2. Lago di Caldaro / Caldaro			Established as a DOC in 1970. The principal red grape is Schiava. Rosso requires a minimum 85% Schiava and a minimum 10.5% abv. Rosso Classico Superiore requires 11 % abv., Scelto requires 11.5% and Scelto Classico Superiore requires minimum 12.0% abv.
3. Casteller DOC			Established as a DOC in 1974. The principal red grape varieties are: Lagrein, Lambrusco, Merlot, Schiava, and Teroldego. Rosso must be a minimum 50% Merlot with a maximum of 50% Lagrein, Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata (locally Enantio), Schiava (Gentile or Grossa), and/or Teroldego.
4. Terradeiforti DOC			Formerly a subzone of the Valdadige DOC, it became a separate DOC in 2006. The principal white grape variety is Pinot Grigio. The principal red grape varieties are: Casetta and Lambrusco.
5. Teroldego Rotaliano DOC			Established as a DOC in 1971, Rosso and Rosato consists of 100% Teroldego with a minimum of 11.5% abv, Superiore and Superiore Riserva must have 12.0% abv. Riserva requires a minimum 2 years ageing.
6. Trento DOC			Established as a DOC in 1993. The principal white grape varieties are Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. The principal red grape varieties are Pinot Meunier and Pinot Nero. Spumante are made Metodo Classico with minimum 15 months on the lees from any percentage of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Meunier, and/or Pinot Nero
7. Trentino DOC			Established as a DOC in 1971. The principal white grapes include: Chardonnay, Muller Thurgau, Nosiola, Pinot Bianco (Weissburgunder), Pinot Grigio (Rulander), Riesling, Riesling Italico, (Weischriesling), Sauvignon, and Sylvaner Verde. The principal red grape varieties include: Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, as well as Pinot Nero and Italian native varietals such as Lagrein, Lambrusco, Marzemino (Berzamino, Berzemino), Moscato Rosa, Rebo, Schiava, and Teroldego.
8. Valdadige DOC / Etschtaler DOC			Established as a DOC in 1975. The principal white grapes include: Chardonnay, Garganaga, Muller Thurgau, Nosiola, Pinot Bianco (Weissburgunder), Pinot Grigio (Rulander), Sauvignon, Trebbiano, and Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The principal red grape varieties include: Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, as well as local varietals Lagrein, Lambrusco, Schiava, Teroldego. Bianco must consist of a minimum 20% Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and/or Welschriesling and a maximum 80% Garganega, Nosiola, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum 50% Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata and/or Schiava with a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lagrein, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and/or Teroldego
Adige DOC Subzones
1. Meranese di Collina			Known locally as Sudtirol Meraner Hugel in German, it is less than 10 miles from the Tirol region of western Austria and is surrounded on all sides by the Eastern Central Alps. It produces wines made based on Shiava under the Alto Adige DOC from vineyards around the town of Merano. To qualify for the title, these wines must be made from vineyards in the communes of Caines, Cermes, Gargazzone, Lagundo, Lana, Marlengo, Postal, Rifiano, S. Pancrazio, Scena, Tesimo, Tirolo and Merano.
2. Santa Maddalena			Known locally as Sudtirol St. Magdalener in German, it produces mid-bodied reds made predominantly (at least 85%) from Schiava grapes and up to 15% Lagrein. Pinot Noir is also now growing in popularity.
3. Terlano			Located in the Adige valley, the Terlano wine zone stretches several miles both north and south of the town of Terlano, six miles west of Bolzano. Red wines from this region are labeled under the Alto Adige DOC. The dominant grapes include: Chardonnay, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Bianco (Weissburgunder), Pinot Grigio or (Rulander), Riesling, Riesling Italico, (Weischriesling), Sauvignon, and Sylvaner. Terlaner Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay, with the remainder Riesling, Riesling Italico, Sauvignon, Sylvaner, Muller Thurgau. They are produced in dry, Passito Vendemmia Tardiva, and dry Spumante.
4. Colli di Bolzano			Known locally as Sudtiroler Bozner Leiten in German, it produces red, white and rose wines made under the Alto Adige DOC from grapes grown around Bolzano, in the Adige valley. Bolzano is the provincial capital of Alto Adige. It produces red wines based on Shiava, blended with Lagrein and Pinot Noir
5. Valle Isarco			Known locally as Eisacktaler in German, it exclusively produces white wines made from made from Kerner, Silvaner, Gruner-Veltliner, Muller-Thurgau and Gewurztraminer (Traminer Aromatico).
6. Valle Venosta			Known locally as Vinschgau in German, the area includes the municipalities of Bernkastel-Ciardes (Castelbello-Ciardes), dwarf (Laces), Naturns (Naturno) Partschins (Parcines) and Silandro (Schlanders). White varities include Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer (Tramíně Aromatico), Kerner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio), and Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco). Red varieties include Vernatsch (Schiava) and Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero).
DOCGs
Trentino-Alto Adige does not contain any DOCG zones.
Key White Grape Varieties
Chardonnay	Trentino produces more Chardonnay than any other Italian region.
Traminer	A parent variety to Gewürztraminer, it tends to be very aromatic and produces light bodied wines. In 2000, prominent French ampelographer Pierre Galet revealed that White Traminer was in fact the same variety as Savagnin Blanc (not to be confused with Sauvignon Blanc), a key ingredient of Jura's famous vin jaune. Other synonyms include Auvernat Blanc, Bon Blanc, Forment, Fromenteau, Gentil Blanc, Schleitheimer, Ryvola Bila.
Pinot Bianco	It is known as called Pinot Blanc in France and Weissburgunder in Germany. It is a mutation of Pinot Grigio (which is a mutation of Pinot Noir), but Pinot Bianco has textbook aromas and flavors of white flower, beeswax and green apple, steely and mineral-driven, fleshy and rich in its resiny, with honeyed yellow fruit aromas and flavors.
Kerner	A crossing of Trollinger (Schiava Grossa or Vernatsch) and Riesling created in 1929 by August Herold.
Sylvaner	A variety of white wine grape which is also spelled “Silvaner” is a crossing of Traminer with a little-known variety called Osterreichisch Weiss. It is grown primarily in Alsace and Germany, where it is known as Grüner Silvaner. Small amounts are also grown in Alto Adige where it is a specialty of the Isarco Valley. Italian Sylvaner typically is lighter and crisper than their counterparts from Alsace and Franken, with faint citrus notes and a hint of pale honey.
Müller-Thurgau	Müller-Thurgau was created by Hermann Müller from the Swiss Canton of Thurgau in 1882. It is a crossing of Riesling with Madeleine Royale.
Pinot Grigio	Pinot Grigio is the same grape as Pinot Gris in Alsace, but due to the climate, soils and style of winemaking the two wines are very distinct from each other. In the northeastern regions of Italy it thrives in Trentino-Alto Adige and Veneto, where it produces wines with notes of pear and apple with hints of lemon and a distinct minerality that are dry, crisp with more body and substance. While Pinot Grigio is the regions #1 export it only covers approximately 10% of the regions vineyards.
Nosiola	The name Nosiola may be derived from the Italian word for hazelnut (nocciola) which may be a reference to either the hazelnut aroma note that sometimes come out in Nosiola based wines or to the light, instead of dark, brown color that raisined Nosiola grapes turn when they are very mature. It is also known as Groppello Bianco. The grape is grown in the Trentino region north of Lake Garda in the Valle dei Laghi. It is a blending component in wines such as Sorni Bianco from Trento. It is also used to produce the dessert wine Vin Santo which is made from grapes that have been allowed to dry out prior to fermentation.
Sauvignon	A Bordeaux varietal “Sauvignon Blanc” known locally simply as Sauvignon.
Moscato Giallo	Also known as Yellow Muscat, Moscato Giallo is a member of the Muscat family of grapes. According to DNA analysis it has shared a parent-offspring relationship with Muscat blanc à Petits Grains (also known as Moscato bianco). It is tends to have deep large cluster of loose, deep yellow colored berries and produce golden colored wine. In northern Italy it is most often used to produce passito style dessert wines.
Key Red Grape Varieties
Bordeaux Varietals		Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot
Lambrusco		This is NOT the same grape as the Lambrusco Emilia-Romagna. It is widely planted for use in inexpensive blends.
Schiava		The original name of this autochthonous grape variety was Farnatzer or Vernetzer. It is also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger in Germany. It is a light red wine with low tannins, moderate alcohol and its tends to reflect its terroir. It is used to make the classic red of Bolzano, known as St Magdalener. Alto Adige DOC wines labeled Schiava must have a minimum 95% of the variety from grapes harvested limited to 14 ton per hectare with the finished wine having a minimum alcohol level of 10.5%.
Lagrein		The most important red grape of Alto Adige in terms of quality is the Lagrein (pronounced la-GRINE) which is a native to the valleys of South Tyrol. It is a descendant of Teroldego, and is related to Syrah, Pinot Noir and Dureza (a French varietal in Southern France). It produces best in the gravelly soils along the Adige river by Bolzano.
Teroldego		Teroldego is a dark-skinned variety that produces deeply pigmented wines with an intensely fruity character. There is just one DOC for Teroldego (Teroldego Rotaliano) in its native Italy and the wines are made exclusively from local Teroldego grapes grown on the Campo Rotaliano – a flat, roughly triangular plain of the Adige Valley in northern Trentino.
Marzemino		Marzemino is primarily grown around Isera, south of Trentino. It is a late-ripening, dark-skinned grape variety with sour-cherry, grassy, herbal notes. It is also grown in the Veneto, Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. Marzemino’s most prestigious role is as the key ingredient (95%) in the Colli di Conegliano Refrontolo passito wines. The wine is most noted for its mention in the opera Don Giovanni of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (“Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino!”). The vine ripens late and is susceptible to many grape diseases including oidium.
Pinot Nero		Known as Pinot Noir in Burgundy France where this grape originates. The best examples come from the eastern side of the Bassa Atesina, Alto Adige’s southernmost growing zone.
Sparkling Wines
Sparkling wine production is on the increase in both Alto Adige and Trentino. Trentino has been a center for quality sparkling wine for many years under the Trento DOC. The traditional method (metodo classico) is used as well as the same grapes as Champagne (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) but Pinot Blanc is also permitted.
Other Wines
Rosé: Some fine rosé is produced in the region, like the aromatic Lagrein Kretzer and the dessert wine Moscato Rosa, prized for its delightful floral character. Passito: Made from white varietals except Welschriesling, or Moscato Rosa. It must be dried on or off the vine to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 16.0%
Notable Wine Producers
Elisabetta Foradori			Pojer
Cavit			Sandri
Ferrari			San Leonardo Estate

The Wines

In my study of Trentino-Alto Adige I enjoyed the following wines:

2004 Abtei Muri Südtiroler Blauburgunder Riserva

A semi-clear/opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core to garnet at the rim with a hint of brown/brick tinge around the edge. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of baked strawberries, black cherries, dried cinnamon stick, dry earth, dried mushrooms, and allspice. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is dry with moderate grainy tannins, medium+ acidity, moderate body and a medium length finish. For Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) that is 10 years hold this wine is holding up exceptionally well. It is definitely more old world in style with more earthy character than fruit. This wine sells for $50.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2006 Abtei Muri Südtiroler Riserva Lagrein

This is an opaque red wine, dark purple/black at the core to violet with minimal rim variation, medium+ viscosity and tears that stain the glass. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of stewed plums, baked blackberries, smoked meat, black licorice, and damp earth. On the palate it is dry, fruit forward with medium+ tannins, medium acidity, it is full bodied with medium+ alcohol and a medium+ length finish. If tasted blind this wine could easily be mistaken as a Syrah from the Northern Rhone. This wine sells for $51.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco. 

2011 Foradori Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT

When we were studying Italy in the Intensive Sommelier Training at ICC, Eric Entrikin MS asked the class, “Has anybody ever had a Teraldego?" which was followed by silence... The only one I have ever had was from Montoliva Vineyard & Winery in California. So, when I was on the hunt for the hard-to-find native varietals of Italy I was looking for a Teraldego but could not find one. Well, after posting these notes I found one at Vin Vino Wine in Palo Alto.

This is an opaque red wine, dark purple/black at the core to dark purple at the rim with very little rim variation, medium viscosity and slightly staining tears. On the nose it moderate intense aromas of plum jam, cassis, raisins, dried violets, and a hint of damp soil and a hint of spice. On the palate it is dry, fairly soft on entry with medium tannins, medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $30.00 at Vin Vino Wine in Palo Alto, California. 

Italy Unit 1: Friuli–Venezia Giulia

 

 

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Friuli-Giulia Venezia wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

In our first meeting of the Advanced Study of Italy we reviewed the “Big Picture” of Italy, reciting all 20 major wine regions from north to south. We then focused covered the following information while sampling the wines – read a little, sip a little, read a little, sip a little… At the beginning of the next meeting we’ll begin with a quiz which will entail identifying all the of regions Italy plus the climate, soils, major grapes, wine blends, and at least 3 top producers of Friuli–Venezia Giulia. In future meetings we will also practice going through the grid and sample some Advanced Grid wines blind.

Geography

Friuli–Venezia Giulia (FVG) is a predominantly mountainous region located in the north-east corner of Italy bordering Slovenia to the east and Austria to the north. Consequently the region is heavily influenced by the neighboring Slavic, German, and Italian cultures. Since the phylloxera devastated its vineyards in the late 19^th century it has replanted with many non-Italian varietals.

White Wines

With the introduction of modern wine making techniques and modern stainless steel equipment, stylistically today’s white wines tend towards crisp and clean white wines but they can also be blended, barrel-fermented and aged, and consequently more lush rather than lean.

Red Wines

Approximately 40% of Friuli’s wines are red. The most important red varietals in the region are Bordeaux varietals, namely Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cab Franc but there are a number of indigenous grapes as well.

“Orange” Wines

There are also a small amount of producers, lead by Josko Frosko Gravner, who are making “orange” white wines with lengthy skin contact influenced by ancient Slavic style of winemaking. To make most modern white wines, the grapes are crushed, and the solids are quickly separated from the juice to maintain the wine’s pale color. Orange wines are white wines produced more like reds, with prolonged maceration of crushed grape skins and seeds. These wines are often made in clay vessels or wooden barrels. Rather than being orange, these skin-fermented white wines range from bright gold to tawny brown. On the palate, they often possess the texture, body and tannins of red wines and the fruit and minerality of white wines. Stylistically unique, many offer earthiness, funk and a savory, richly textured mouthfeel.

Climate
The region is protected by a band of two Alps the Carnic and the Julian. Both of these tall mountain ranges help to protect the cold of Central Europe from racing down on these growing regions. Then you have the Adriatic at a close proximity. This moderates the temperatures, keeping it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, which also creates a push and pull of wind between it and the two mountain ranges. This constant breeze known as la bora helps many of the vineyards by giving them a wonderful air flow that makes farming in a bio or organic practice easier. This wind also helps in keeping fungus outbreaks lower in many vineyards.
Soils
Most vineyards are on glacial moraine – gritty sand, gravel, and sediment.
DOCs There are ten DOCs in Friuli although the first two are considered to be exceptional
Collio Orientali DOC		Located in the Northern part of Friuli’s wine growing region. It has steep hills and a soil rich in ponca; very deep, well drained, moderately permeable soils that formed in loess (silt-sized sediment, which is formed by the accumulation of wind-blown dust). There are also layers of sandstone mixed with red clay and limestone. The Collio Orientali has a cooler, wetter area in the north where Ramandolo is produced, a famous sweet wine from Friuli. This is also where the best reds of FVG are made. These world class soils around the hill of Rosazzo and the hilly town of Buttrio produce full bodied, rich Bordeaux varietals, as well as indigenous reds of Pignolo, Tazzalanghe and Schiopetino. Collio Orientalli is home to great producers such as Ronco di Gnemiz, Meroi and Miani in Buttrio.
Collio DOC		This hilly area on the Slovenian border is be protected by the pre alps of the Julian mountains. The soil on the multifaceted hilly slopes are sandstone and stratified marl with Ponca. Collio, with Collio Orientali, is home to some of the most famous and sought after wines of Friuli inclduing Franco Torros for his Pinot Bianco, the Bordeaux varietals of Russiz Superiore. Livio Felluga is a historic producer with vineyards in both Collio and Collio Orientali and he produces fresh Friulano and to the epic Terre Alte. Terre Alte was created in 1981 and is considered one of Italy's most prestigious white wines. The balanced blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon grapes, estate-grown at Rosazzo in the historic Terre Alte vineyards. Giampaolo Venica at is yet anotherwho produces Sauvignon Blanc and outstanding Malvasia.
Friuli Isonzo DOC		Named after the Isonzo river, it not only splits the region but helps make it distinct. The river has historically flooded and given the areas on both sides nutrients and soil. White gravel on the right bank with a lot of chalk and on the left bank a more red gravel with less chalk. The la bora winds come in from Slovenia and run right down the Isonzo. The wines from Isonzo have an exotic aromatic ripeness, rich alcohol and fullness. In Isonzo you’ll find Vie di Romans which make rich full and highly exotic aromatic whites and their chardonnay is similar to that of California. Tenuta Blasig is a producer from this region where the wines are less full blown and show great elegance.
Carso DOC		This bora wind swept terroir looking down on the Adriatic is a plateau that sits above Trieste and heads north. This wind keeps yields down as the vineyards struggle with very low out put. The soil in the Carso is unique, with red iron rich soil that is also layered with limestone and calcium. The vineyards are so distinct and rich in these minerals that in the 1890s the doctors of nearby Trieste would recommend a glass of the red varietal Terano for people with anemia. Malvasia Istriana has a salty mineral note while maintaining all the great exotic fruit components. There are some excellent wineries in the Karst. Zidarich and Kante both make spectacular wines in this wind swept plateau. Vodopivic is a winery also making wine in the Karst in the more Gravner style of Amphora and long skin maceration.
Friuli Grave DOC		The largest area, it is on the flatter soil West of Udine and is dominated by gravelly stones left by the Tagliamento river looking up at the Carnic Alps. The deep well-drained soil on the river plane enables the rocks and stones to store heat. But it is cooler here so the more delicate aromatic whites do not get cooked by the warmth from the stones and allow crisp, clean, aromatic and ripe whites. While not as profound as the wines of Friuli, they are aromatic and good value wines.
DOCGs
Ramandolo DOCG			Sweet whites from Verduzzo grapes grown on the hills to the north of Udine
Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG			Became DOCG in 2006, produces amber wine made from the aromatic Picolit grape.
Key White Grape Varieties
Friulano	It is formerly known as Tocai Friulano, the “tocai” was dropped after the forming of the EU in order to be distinguished from Hungary’s Tokaji. It is also known as Tai Bianco in Vento and Sauvignon Vert in France. It is typically crisp and medium bodied with flavors of pear, white almond, stone fruit and Cavaillon melon carried with mineral notes.
Pinot Grigio	Also known as Pinot Gris in France, but Pinot Grigio is stylistically different in Italy. Plantings can also be found in the Lombardy region around Oltrepo Pavese and in Alto Adige. In Italy, the grapes are often harvested early to retain the refreshing acidity and minimize some of the overt-fruitiness of the variety, creating a more neutral flavor profile. This style is often imitated in other Old World wine regions, such as Germany where the grape is known as Ruländer. This is a “Grid Wine” for the Court of Master Sommeliers.
Ribolla	Two clones exist: Ribolla Verde and Ribolla Gialla. The grape is also found in Slovenia where it is known as Rebula and the Greek island of Cephalonia, where it is known as Robola. It is thought that the vine originated in Cephalonia and arrived in Friuli, by way of Slovenia, as early as the 13th Century and during the Venetian Republic. It is typically golden in color, light body, high acidity and fragrant aromas of exotic fruit, papaya and mango, which turn nutty with time. It gives its best results on hillside vineyards.
Sauvignon	Sauvignon Blanc known locally simply as “sauvignon.” A single bottled variety grown in the region since the 19th century. What distinguishes the grape in Northeast Italy is that it lacks those aggressive aromas of nettle and artichoke you sometimes find elsewhere. In the Colli Orientali del Friuli’s Collio and Grave areas it tends to showcase softer aromas of passion fruit, sage, mint and tomato leaf.
Chardonnay	A single bottled variety grown in the region since the 19th century. It is also an important blended wine in “Super Whites”.
Pinot Bianco	A French import, Pinot Bianco was introduced during the 19th century. It is planted across Northern Italy and grows well in Friuli due to the calcareous marl soils that enhance its aromas of mineral, apricot, pear and Golden Delicious apple. Typically they have a creamy structure.
Verduzzo Friulano	Verduzzo Friulano is used in varietal and blended wines, many of which fall under DOC as well as vino da tavola designations, that range in style from dry to late harvest wines. (see below)
Picolit	Used to produce rare dessert wines (see below).
Lesser Local White Varieties
Traminer Aromatico		The Traminer is native to the cool Alpine slopes of the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol in northeastern Italy. It is somewhat debated as to whether the Gewürz- mutant originated in Friuli or in Trentino-Alto Adige. Confusingly, both pink and green grapes may be called simply Traminer. This wine is aged in Austrian oak rather than the Slavonian oak used for most Italian wine.
Malvasia Istriana		This wine is grown in the in Collio DOC and Isonzo DOC. The name comes from the Istria peninsula spanning over Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. The vine was introduced to the area by Venetian merchants who brought cuttings from Greece. It is also found in the Colli Piacentini region of Emilia where it is used to make sparkling wine known locally as champagnino or “little Champagne.”
Riesling Italico		Also known as Welschriesling, Laski Rizling and Olasz Riesling. It is NOT related to the Rhine Riesling, that is grown throughout Central Europe. Its origin is uncertain but it may have been brought to Central Europe by the ancient Romans. However, the Croatian name Graševina suggests that the origin might be somewhere to the east of the Balkans. In Italy it is grown in in the northern regions such as Trentino, Collio and Friuli.
Key Red Grape Varieties
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc		The three most important red varietals in Italy are from Bordeaux varietal that have been produced in Friuli since the 19th century.
Refosco		A dark-skinned grape varieties native to the northern Italian of Friuli, Gavi, Trentino, Istria, and the Karst – a limestone plateau region extending across the border of southwestern Slovenia and northeastern Italy. It origins in the area pre-date modern day political borders. The wines tend to be dark and densely colored violet with high acidity and are mostly and grassy aromas. Flavors of dark peppery spices and plums abound on the palate, and the wine often displays a slightly astringent, almond-skin finish on the palate. Refosco is ripens late and if harvested too early it can produce harsh, unripe tannins. In Friuli, the most common sub-variety is named Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, which translates to “Refosco with the red stalks”. The wines from here have impressive fruit intensity laced with minerality.
Schioppettino		The name means “gunshot” or “little crack” and it also known as “Ribolla Nera”. The grape is believed to have originated between the commune of Prepotto and the Slovenian border where records of the Schiopettino wine being used in marriage ceremonies date to 1282. The grape was nearly lost to extinction following the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century when vineyard owners decided against replanting the variety in favor of French wine grapes.
Pignolo		In Italian the grape’s name means “fussy” which describe the viticultural profile of the grape which often produces low and uneven yields. The wines tend to have a balance between acidity and tannins with flavors of plum and blackberry. Most experts believe that it is not related to the Lombardy Pignola grape of the Valtellina region.
Tazzelenghe		A native grape to the region. The grape's name means “Tongue stinging” or “Tongue cutting”. It is a late-ripening variety that produces medium- to large-sized berries. Its bunches are medium sized and cylindrical in shape, with narrow wings. It is one of 10 varieties permitted in red wines of Friuli's Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC. It is typically full bodied, with an intense purple-red hue. The wines often exhibit notes of licorice, dark chocolate and earthy spice, but are most recognizable by their texture rather than by any particular characteristic flavor. It may be used to create single-variety wines, but it is most often blended with the Bordeaux varieties Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It has strong, mouth-puckering tannins and acidity. The variety was widely planted in the last century throughout Friuli, but has been largely forgotten since.
Key Wine Blends
Following the trend of the “Super Tuscans” red wine blends, the term “Super Whites” are white wine blends. Some of the most well-known include Vinnaioli Jermann’s Vintage Tunina (Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Tocai and Picolit), Ronco della Acacie “hilltop of the Acacias” (70% Chardonnay 30% Friulano), Capo Martino (Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit), Miani Bianco (Tocai vines, Malvasia and Ribolla.), Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte (Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Tocai) and Vie de Romans’ Flors di Uis (Chardonnay, Malvasia and Riesling).
Dessert Wines
Picolit (also known as Piccolit and Piccolito in friulian language is called pecolèt or pecolùt) is a native grape used to make rare dessert wines often made in the passito style (“Straw wine” made from grapes that have been dried to concentrate their juice). The grape had a worldwide reputation in the 18th century when it was featured in royal courts from Great Britain to the Russian Empire. While experiencing cult wine popularity in the 1960s and 1970s, Picolit's extremely small yields have made it economically difficult to grow and it has limited the number of plantings.
Verduzzo di Ramandolo is made from the Verduzzo grape. Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible, has stated that this is one of the "lightest-bodied, most exquisite dessert wines made anywhere.” (pg. 349-350). According Joe Bastianich and David Lynch, authors of Vino Italiano, describes these as honeyed sweet wines with a citrus note similar to “an orange jelly candy” but it can also be used to create somewhat tannic dry whites with “chalky” notes (pg. 38-40, 401).
Notable Wine Producers
Bastianich Winery				Lis Neris
Josko Gravner				Livio Felluga
Conte D’Attimis Maniago				Primosic
Foffani				Villa Russiz
La Viarte				Vie de Romans
Mario Schiopetto				Castello di Spessa

The Wines

During our first study group meeting we tasted the following wines:

2012 Raccaro Friulano “Vigna del Rolat” Collio DOC

This is a clear white wine, moderate intense straw-yellow in color with medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of ripe melon, green apples and lemon, cucumbers, sea breeze, and an array of white flowers with a hint of mint and sage. The floral aromas are up front and are followed by the fruit and herbal notes. On the palate the nose is confirmed with tangy oranges, grapefruit pith, sea salt, and a hint of bitter almonds long finish. This wine is very zesty with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, it is very round and creamy, it very powerful and complex with a long finish. This was my favorite in the line-up and it retails for $39.99 per bottle.

2011 Ronco del Gelso Toc Bas Friulano Friuli Isonzo DOC

This is a clear white wine, moderate intense straw yellow in color with medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of dried papaya, dried peach, a hint of quince and oxidative notes of sweaty socks, peanut shell, notes of cheese and salty sea breeze. The oxidative notes are more prominent on the nose than the palate and the “sweaty socks” notes seem to dissipate. It is dry, with medium acid, it is medium bodied with a moderate length finish. This wine is fully developed and will not benefit from ageing. This wine retails for $17 per bottle.

2012 Ermacora Ribolla Gialla Colli Orientali del Friuli

This is a clear white wine, moderate intense straw yellow in color with medium viscosity. On the nose it has subtle intense aromas of white peach, tangerine, melon, lime, white flowers, a hint of coconut, white chalk and a hint of bitter almonds. Out of the three wines, this one had the most noticeable mineral character. On the palate it is dry with medium+ acidity, medium+ alcohol, it is very lean and steely with notes of peach skins, under ripe stone fruits, and a very prominent minerality, with hints of bitter almonds and lemon pith with herbal notes on the medium length finish. This wine retails for $15.99 per bottle.

2003 Gigantes Pignolo, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This is somewhat opaque dark ruby red wine that transitions to garnet at the rim with medium viscosity. On the nose it has medium intense aromas of dried red cherries, dried plums, black currants, dried roses, tobacco, dried cinnamon stick, black pepper, anise, and a touch of mint. On the palate it is dry with medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity, medium body, it is a complex and well-balanced wine with a medium+ length finish. This wine sells for $43.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2007 Gigante Schioppettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This is somewhat opaque dark ruby red wine that transitions to moderate intense garnet at the rim with medium viscosity. On the nose it has intense aromas of fresh cracked black pepper, black cherries, plums, dried earth, dried roses and a hint of old leather. On the palate it is dry with medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity, it has medium body, medium+ alcohol with a medium+ length pepper and spice driven finish. This wine is very Syrah-like but it is so peppery that it almost overwhelms the fruit. This wine sells for $24.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

 

2006 Gigante Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

An opaque red wine, dark purple / black at the core with minimal rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of dark baked black cherries, dried figs, with hints of black pepper, dried roses, damp earth and a touch of vinosity. On the palate it has additional notes of sour cherries and dried cinnamon stick. This wine is somewhat rustic, it is very dry with medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a lengthy finish.

Food and Wine Pairing

All these wines have a common “I’m Italian” character to them as they have similar bitter almonds traits that I find in Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. After tasting the white wines we tasted them again with a classic pairing of melon (cantaloupe and honeydew melon) wrapped in prosciutto. The salty sea breeze notes of the Friuli compliment the prosciutto and the fruit notes, especially those of the 2012 Raccaro Friulano, was a great match for the melon.

The Refosco is an excellent pizza wine and I really enjoyed it with a thin crust pizza with pepperoni, mushrooms and black olives.

The Schioppettino was very peppery when I opened it but I enjoyed 2 glasses of it. The next day when I finished the bottle the pepper seemed much more integrated which allowed the fruit to come to the front. So, I highly recommend decanting the wine for several hours before serving it. I enjoyed it with Italian turkey meatballs in a Cabernet Marinara Sauce and garlic bread