Italy Unit 12 - Lazio

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Lazio (English Latium) region of Italy including information about the climate, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

Lazio is located south of Tuscany and Umbria to the northeast on the Tyrrhenian Coast, Campania to the south and Abruzzo to the east. Its capital is Rome “the Eternal City”, the political center of Italy, the third most populous Italian region and the location of the Catholic Holy See.

The White Grapes of Lazio and Est! Est!! Est!!!

The principal grapes of Lazio are Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia. One of the most well-known, at least for its history if not its quality, is the Trebbiano-based white wines of Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone.

The unusual name of the wine region dates back to a 12th-century tale of a German bishop named Johann Fugger who was traveling to the Vatican for a meeting with the Pope. The bishop sent a prelate ahead of him to survey the villages along the route for the best wines. At a Montefiascone inn, the prelate was so impressed with the local wine that he wrote on the door of the Inn with chalk, Est! Est!! Est!!! (Latin for “It is” which is short for Vinum est bonum, “The wine is good”).[1] Another version of this story says that it was a Flemish bishop who was attending the coronation of Henry V, the Holy Roman Emperor. While story is generally considered to be apocryphal it is without a doubt great for publicity.[2]  The wines can be produced in dry and sweeter abboccato styles. One major producer is Falesco, which I sampled during my studying (see notes below).

The Red Grapes of Lazio

Red wines make up only 15% of the region’s production with the indigenous Cesanese grape being the primary grape in the Rosso wines of Cesanese del Piglio, the first zone in Lazio to achieve DOCG status. Some of Lazio's best known red wines on the international stage emerge from the Falesco estate in Montefiascone near the Umbrian border, but Falesco’s best wines are made from Bordeaux varietals, particularly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, not Cesanese.

Climate
The proximity of the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west of Lazio plays an important role in the climate as cool sea breezes temper the drier, warmer temperatures on the coast, while the mountainous area is subject to various macroclimates despite being protected by the Apennines from the cold winds coming from the north-east.
Soils
The volcanic hills of Lazio provide an excellent base for viticulture thanks to the fertile and porous (well-drained) land. Nourishment for the grapes is provided by lava and tufa soils, rich in potassium. This type of soil is particularly suited to white grapes as it ensures a good balance of acidity.
IGTs Lazio has 7 Indicazione geografica tipica (IGT) zones which are: Anagni, Civitella d'Agliano, Colli Cimini, Costa Etrusco Romana, Frusinante or del Frusinante, and Lazio.
DOCs and DOCGs There are 26 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC)s and 3 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s in Lazio.
DOCs
1. Aprilia DOC	Established in 1980. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbiano: The primary red grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano; 5–35% Chardonnay. Rosso  and Rosato  must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese, 5–25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5–25% Merlot.
2. Atina DOC	Established in 1999. The primary white grape varietal is Sémillon. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, a minimum of 10% Cabernet Franc, a minimum 10% Merlot and a minimum of 10% Syrah.
3. Bianco Capena DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 25% Trebbiano, a maximum of 55% Malvasia, a maximum of 20% Bellone and/or Bombino Bianco.
4. Castelli Romani DOC	Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Cesanese, Merlot, Montepulciano, Nero Buono, and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio (locally Malvasia Puntinata), and/or Trebbiano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Cesanese, Merlot, Montepulciano, Nero Buono, and/or Sangiovese. Rosato may consist of any proportions of Cesanese, Merlot, Montepulciano, Nero Buono, and/or Sangiovese.
5. Cerveteri DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Montepulciano, and Sangiovese.  Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano (locally Procanico) and a maximum 35% Malvasia. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Montepulciano and/or Sangiovese (minimum 25% of each) and a maximum of 35% Merlot.
6.  Cesanese di Affile or Affile DOC	Established in 1973. The primary red grape varietal is Cesanese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 90% Cesanese di Affile.
7. Cesanese di Olevano Romano or Olevano Romano DOC	Established in 1973. The primary red grape varietal is Cesanese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Cesanese di Affile.
8. Circeo DOC	Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbiano: The primary red grape varietals are: Sangiovese and Merlot. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 55% Trebbiano Toscano, a maximum of 30% Chardonnay and a maximum of 30% Malvasia. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 55% Merlot, a maximum of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and a maximum of 30% Sangiovese.
9. Colli Albani DOC	Established in 1970. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. Bianco and Spumante must consist of a minimum of 60% Malvasia Bianca di Candia (locally Malvasia Rossa); 25–50% Trebbiano (di Soave, Giallo, or Toscano); 5–45% Malvasia del Lazio.
10. Colli della Sabina DOC	Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietal is Malvasia. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia del Lazio and 5–35% Trebbiano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 40–70% Sangiovese and 15–40% Montepulciano.
11. Colli Etruschi Viterbesi or Tuscia, DOC	Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietals are: Grechetto, Moscato, and Trebbiano The primary red grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum of 0–80% Trebbiano Toscano (locally Procanico) and a maximum of 30% Malvasia (Toscana or del Lazio). Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50–65% Sangiovese and 20–45% Montepulciano (locally Violone). Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Moscato.
12. Colli Lanuvini DOC	Established in 1971. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Merlot, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano and a maximum of 70% Malvasia (Bianca di Candia and/or del Lazio). Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Merlot; minimum 35% Montepulciano and/or Sangiovese. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano and a maximum of 70% Malvasia.
13. Cori DOC	Established in 1971. The primary white grape varietal is Bellone. The primary red grape varietal is Nero Buono. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Bellone, a minimum of 20% Malvasia and a minimum of 15% Greco. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Nero Buono, a minimum of 20% Montepulciano and a minimum of 15% Cesanese.
14. Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, DOC	Established in 1966. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbiano. The must comes from grapes grown within the province of Viterbo and included in the administrative territory of the municipalities of Montefiascone, Bolsena, San Lorenzo Nuovo, Grotte di Castro, Gradoli, Capodimonte and Marta, harvested to a maximum yield of 13 tonnes/ha. The finished wine must have a minimum least 11% abv. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50–65% Trebbiano Toscano (locally Procanico), 25–40% Trebbiano Giallo and 10–20% Malvasia (Bianca Lunga or del Lazio) Spumante must consist of a minimum of 50–65% Trebbiano Toscano, 25–40% Trebbiano Giallo and 10–20% Malvasia.
15. Frascati DOC	Established as a DOC in 1966; Cannellino di Frascati and Frascati Superiore were established as separate DOCGs in 2011. The primary white grape varietal is Malvasia. Bianco and Spumante must consist of a minimum of 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio (locally Malvasia Puntinata); maximum 30% Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, and/or Trebbiano.
16. Genazzano DOC	Established in Malvasia. The primary white grape varietal is Ciliegiolo. The primary red grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Malvasia di Candia. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Ciliegiolo.
17. Marino DOC	Established in 1970. The primary white grape varietals are: Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, Malvasia, Verdicchio Bianco and Spumante, Passito and Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia (locally Malvasia Rossa).
18. Montecompatri Colonna or Montecompatri or Colonna DOC	Established in 1973. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano (Giallo, Toscano, or Verde); maximum 70% Malvasia (Bianca di Candia and/or del Lazio); maximum 10% Bellone and/or Bombino Bianco.
19. Nettuno DOC	Established in 2003. The primary white grape varietals are: Bellone, Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Merlot and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30–70% Bellone (locally Cacchione) and 30–50% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 30–70% Merlot and 30–50% Sangiovese.
20. Orvieto DOC	Established as a DOC in 1971, it overlaps both Lazio and Umbria. The primary white grape varietals are: Grechetto and Trebbiano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano Toscano (known locally as Procanico). Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of. Muffa Nobile (Botrytis Cinerea “noble rot”) sweet wines must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano and must achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 16.0%. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano. A new encépagement engineered in 2003 emphasizes the native Grechetto grape over the blander Trebbiano Toscana and may lead to a higher base standard of wine in the future.
21. Roma DOC	Established in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, Malvasia, and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cesanese, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Syrah. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia; minimum 35% Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, and/or Trebbiano (Giallo and/or Verde). Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Montepulciano; minimum 35% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cesanese, Sangiovese, and/or Syrah. Romanella Spumante must consist of a minimum of 50% Malvasia; minimum 35% Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, and/or Trebbiano.
22. Tarquinia DOC	Established in 1996. The primary white grape varietal is Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Montepulciano, Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Giallo and/or Trebbiano Toscano (locally Procanico); maximum 35% Malvasia (del Lazio and/or di Candia). Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Montepulciano and Sangiovese (minimum 25% of each) with a maximum of 25% Cesanese Comune.
23. Terracina or Moscato di Terracina DOC	Established in 2007. The primary white grape varietal is Moscato. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 85% Moscato di Terracina. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 100% Moscato di Terracina. Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Moscato di Terracina.
24. Velletri DOC	Established in 1972. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Cesanese and Montepulciano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano (Giallo, Toscano, and/or Verde) and a maximum of 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio (locally Malvasia Puntinata). Rosso must consist of a minimum of 10–45% Sangiovese; 30–50% Montepulciano; minimum 10% Cesanese (Comune or di Affile). Spumante must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano and a maximum of 70% Malvasia.
25. Vignanello DOC	Established in 1992. The primary white grape varietals are: Greco and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 70% Trebbiano (Giallo and/or Toscano); maximum 30% Malvasia (Bianca di Candia and/or del Chianti). Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese; maximum 40% Ciliegiolo. Greco Spumante must consist of a minimum of 85% Greco. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 70% Trebbiano and a maximum 30% Malvasia. Greco Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 85% Greco.
26.  Zagarolo DOC	Established in 1973. The primary white grape varietals are: Malvasia and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: Bianco must consist of a minimum of 30% Trebbiano (Giallo, Toscano, and/or Verde) and a maximum of 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio (locally Malvasia Puntinata); maximum 10% Bellone and/or Bombino Bianco.
DOCGs
1. Cannellino di Frascati DOCG	Formerly part of the Frascati DOC; established as a separate DOCG in 2011. The primary white grape varietal is Malvasia. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio (locally Malvasia Puntinata) and a maximum of 30% Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, and/or Trebbiano.
2. Cesanese di Piglio DOCG	Established as a DOC in 1973; became a DOCG in 2008. The primary red grape varietal is Cesanese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 90% Cesanese.
3. Frascati Superiore DOCG	Formerly part of the Frascati DOC; established as a separate DOCG in 2011. The primary white grape varietal is Malvasia. Superiore must consist of a minimum of 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio (locally Malvasia Puntinata) and a maximum of 30% Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco, and/or Trebbiano.
Key White Grape Varieties
French Varietals	Chardonnay, Sémillon
Bellone	It is grown mostly in the vineyards around the Italian capital Rome and plays an important part in the white wines of the Roma DOC. The Arciprete (“archpriest’) clone has proved particularly well suited for sweet late-harvest wines.
Bombino Bianco	Valued more for its generous yields than its aromatic qualities has a few nicknames such as Straccia Cambiale and Pagadebit (“the debt payer”) in reference to its reliably high yields. Although not related to Trebbiano, in Abruzzo it is known as Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.
Grechetto	Often referred to as Grechetto Bianco it is of Greek origin and is also known as Grechetto di Todi, Grechetto Spoletino, Greco Spoletino, Greco Bianco di Perugia. It is grown in Lazio, and Tuscany, and is more-well known in Umbria. It is a thick-skinned grape making it resistant to downy mildew and is most often used as a blending grape. It also produces a high amount of sugar making it suitable for Vin Santo.
Greco	Also known as Greco Bianco, it is an ancient, light-skinned grape variety thought to have originated in Greece but now grown throughout southern Italy, particularly in Campania and Calabria. Recent DNA profiling has proven that Greco is genetically identical to Asprinio, as it is known along the coast of Campania. It tends to have high acidity and a fresh, clean, grapey flavor profile but they also tend to oxidize in bottle relatively quickly resulting in nutty, caramelized flavors so they are best when consumed young.
Malvasia	Also known as Malmsey, Malvasier, Malvazia, Monemvasia. It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years. Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia. It is grown all over Italy.
Moscato	Known as Moscatel in Spain and Portugal, and Muscat internationally it is one of the oldest and most widespread grape families in the world. It is believed to have originated in the Middle East and was grown by the ancient Greeks. Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is the oldest and most highly valued of the Muscat family.
Roscetto	Also spelt Rossetto, the name alludes to the fact that when the grapes are fully ripe, they turn pinky-red. This rare white variety is indigenous to Lazio and is grown only in small quantities around the city Montefiascone (Viterbo province) in central Italy, and was historically grown south of Rome in the Castelli Romani region and near the Lazio-Umbria border, between Orvieto and the Lago di Bolsena. The low yield vine yields acid-stressed, full-bodied, aromatic white wines.
Trebbiano Toscano	Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+ DOCs.
Key Red Grape Varieties
French Varietals	Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah
Cesanese	There are two Cesanese varieties, Cesanese Comune (also known as Bonvino Nero) and Cesanese di Affile which is generally considered superior. However, Cesanese Comune is the larger-berried of the two vines and is slightly more robust, showing increased resistance to fungal infections and other vineyard pests and it is the grape behind the wines of the Laszio’s first DOCG - Cesanese del Piglio DOCG.
Montepulciano	Locally known as Violone, this grape may have originated in the Tuscan town of Montepulciano, it is now more commonly found in Abruzzo.
Nero Buono	Nero Buono (like Tannat, Alicante Bouschet, Mourvedre) is known as a teinturiers because of the deep color of both the skins and the juice. It is mostly used to add color to lighter wines as it is used in the blended Cori Rosso wines produced under the Cori DOC.
Sangiovese	Sangiovese derives its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove” and it has several synonyms. In Chianti Classico it may be referred to as Sangiovetto, in Montalcino it is called Brunello, in Montepulciano it is called Prugnello Gentile and along the coast in Maremma it is called Morellino. "Sangiovese" was actually several "varieties" of clones which he broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. The Sangiovese Grosso family includes the clones growing in the Brunello region as well as the clones known as Prugnolo Gentile and Sangiovese di Lamole that was grown in the Greve in Chianti region. Sangiovese wines in Tuscany tend to be light in color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones. Structurally they are naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to full-bodied. When aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large European (often Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be aged in new barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
Notable Wine Producers
Falesco	Falesco is a family-run winery that was established in Montefiascone, Italy in 1979. It is run by winemaking brothers Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella, Riccardo’s daughter Dominga and winemaker Pier Paolo Chiasso. The estate consists of 670 acres with approximately 370 acres under vine. It straddles the border of Lazio and Umbria, about 50 miles north of Rome. Falesco's most popular wine is Vitiano, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese grown in Umbria. The annual production is almost 3 million bottles.

The Wines

While studying Lazio I tasted the following wines:

2013 Falesco Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, Lazio IGT

This wine is a blend of 50% Trebbiano, 30% Malvasia, and 20% Roscetto. This is a clear white wine, straw in color with a slight green tinge around the edge, low concentration and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of green apples, melon rind, lemon, with green vegetal notes and a hint of white flowers and salty sea breeze. On the palate it is somewhat tart and very dry with high acidity, medium- body and a medium+ length finish. This wine sells for $9.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City, California

While every book and online resource I have read makes less-than-positive comments about this wine, I paired it with Chicken & Prosciutto Tortellini with Pesto sauce and it worked quite well. But, by itself it is nothing to rave about.

2009 Castello di Torre in Pietra Terre di Breccia Lazio Rosso, Lazio IGT

This wine is a blend of Cesanese, Montepulciano, Sangiovese. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to violet at the rim with medium+ viscosity and slow running tears. On the nose it has subtle aromas of dusty black cherries, black berries, dried violets, with hints of dried herbs, dusty earth, spice and black pepper. On the palate it is dry with medium tannins, medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. I would describe this wine has being rustic and while it does not fair well on its own it went well with an Italian meatloaf, so it needs to be paired with food in order to be appreciated. This wine sells for $16.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2009 Falesco “Pomele”, Lazio IGT

It is made from 100% Aleatico using Cryo-maceration for 2 days. It has 110 g/l residual sugar and 10% abv. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple/black at the core to violet at the rim with minimal variation and high viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of blueberry jam, boysenberry pancake syrup, maple, brown sugar, dates, and dried plums. On the palate the nose is confirmed, it is semi-sweet with moderate- tannins, medium acidity, a silky mouth-feel and a moderate length finish. It is somewhat similar to a port or late harvest wine but not as intensely sweet. This wine sells for $27.99 for a 500 ml bottle at Beltramos in Redwood City, California.

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[1] Joe Bastianich and David Lynch, Vino Italiano (Crown Publishing 2005), 264.

[2] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia (5^th Edition) (DK Publishing, 2011), 339.

Italy Unit 11 – Le Marche

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Marche (Italian Le Marche) region of Italy including information about the climate, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

If we think Puglia as the heel of the boot and Calabria as the toe, then Le Marche would be the calf muscle of the leg as it is located to the east of Umbria, south of Emilia-Romagna and north of Abruzzo on the Adriatic Coast.

The name of the region derives from the plural name of marca, a medieval and early modern European name for a border area of a realm where different laws applied, for defense of the border against hostile incursions, or to regulate border trade or both. The name for this region originally referred to the medieval March of Ancona and nearby marches of Camerino and Fermo.

Le Marche has a lot of hills (“Colli” in Italian) as well as river valleys and the coastal strip. The coastal Castelli di Jesi and the more inland and higher-altitude Matelica are the optimum zones for vineyards.

The dominant white grape varietal is Verdicchio and the dominant red grape is Montepulciano. Normale versions of wines are released as DOC and the riserva versions, aged for a minimum of 18 months, are released as DOCG. The Matelica wines are often sharper, whereas Castelli di Jesi wines have more body with a fuller, rounder character.

Climate
The climate one end to the other of Marche is fairly uniform due to the sea breezes that temper the weather in the gentle river valleys. Only when you go deep into the Umbro-Marchigiano Apenines does the landscape get rugged.
DOCs and DOCGs There are 11 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC)s and 2 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)s in Le Marche. In 2009 Le Marche doubled its number of DOCG wines with the addition of Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG and Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG.
DOCs
1. Bianchello del Metauro DOC	Established in 1969. The primary white grape varietal is Biancame. Bianco and Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 95% Biancame (known locally as Bianchello) and up to 5% of Malvasia bianca Lunga (known locally as Malvasia Toscana), can also be included. Spumante can have a maximum of 5% Malvasia.
2. Colli Maceratesi DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietal is Maceratino. The primary red grape varietal are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot plus Italian varietals Ciliegiolo, Lacrima, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Vernaccia Nera. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 70% Maceratino (known locally as Ribona) and a maximum of 30% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Incrocio Bruni 54, Malvasia, Pecorino, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, and/or Verdicchio. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese and a maximum of 50% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Lacrima, Merlot, Montepulciano, and/or Vernaccia Nera.
3. Colli Pesaresi DOC	Established in 1972. The primary white grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, plus Italian varietals Biancame, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, plus Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 75% Biancame, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero (vinified as a white wine), Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano Toscano (locally Albanella), Verdicchio, and/or Welschriesling. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 75% Biancame, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero (vinified as a white wine), Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and/or Welschriesling.
4. Esino DOC	Established in 1995. The primary white grape varietal is Verdicchio. The primary red grape varietal are: Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Verdicchio, normally Trebbiano and/or Malvasia is added. A sparkling (frizzante) version is also produced, minimum alcohol content 9.5%. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 60% Montepulciano and/or Sangiovese.
5. Falerio DOC / Falerio dei Colli Ascolani DOC	Established in 1975. The primary white grape varietals are: Pecorino and Trebbiano Bianco must consist of a minimum of 20–50% Trebbiano Toscano; 10–30% Passerina; 10–30% Pecorino.
6. Lacrima di Morro DOC	Established in 1985. The primary red grape varietal is Lacrima. Rosso and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Lacrima.
7. Pergola DOC	Established in 2005. The primary red grape varietal is Aleatico also known as Vernaccia di Pergola. Rosso, Rosato,  Spumante, and Spumante Rosato must consist of a minimum of 60% Aleatico.
8. Rosso Cònero DOC	Established as a DOC in 1967; a separate Cònero DOCG for the Riserva was established in 2004. The primary red grape varietal is Montepulciano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano.
9. Rosso Piceno DOC	Established in 1968. It surrounds the coastal Conero zone, and is produced from grapes which ripen in a restricted sunny area in the foothills of the mountain which goes by the same name just south of Ancona and typically offers lighter Sangiovese and Montepulciano blends. The primary red grape varietals are: Montepulciano, Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 35–85% Montepulciano and 15–50% Sangiovese.
10. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC	Established as a DOC in 1968; Riserva became the Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG in 2010. The primary white grape varietal is Verdicchio. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Verdicchio.
11. Verdicchio di Matelica DOC	Established as a DOC in 1967; Riserva became the Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG in 2010. The primary white grape varietal is Verdicchio. Bianco, Spumante and Passito must consist of a minimum of 85% Verdicchio.
DOCGs
1. Offida DOCG	Established as a DOC in 2001; became a DOCG in 2011. The primary white grape varietals are: Passerina and Pecorino. The primary red grape varietal is Montepulciano. Bianco must consist of a minimum of. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano. These are aromatically complex wines made from the obscure Lacrima grape that can produce a heady, floral, Pinot Noir-like character.
2. Cònero Rosso Riserva DOCG	Established as a DOC in 1967; became a DOCG in 2004. It is produced just south of the regional capital Ancona. The primary red grape varietal is Montepulciano. Riserva must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano and a maximum 15% Sangiovese. It is aged for 2 years prior to release, and many producers rely on a percentage of new barriques for aging rather than the traditional old botti.
3. Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG	Established as a DOC in 1971; became a DOCG in 2004. The primary red grape varietal is Vernaccia Nera. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 85% Vernaccia Nera. Spumante can range from dry (secco) to dolce made from a percentage of passito grapes (40%).
Other wines that have not yet received the D.O.C. label but are worth a noting are Vinsanto di Sant'Angelo in Vado, a dessert wine, and Tristo di Montesecco a dry white wine produced in a zone around Pergola. Also the delicate 'Brut's with an extremely fine beaded sparkle (Metodo Classico) based on Verdicchio.
Key White Grape Varieties Le Marche produces a large variety of wines including 13 white varieties of wine carrying the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) label.
Biancame	This grape is believed to be native to Le Marche. It is the primary component in Bianchello del Metauro DOC produced in the province Pesaro and Urbino.
Bruni 54	A green grape that is a Sauvignon Blanc x Verdicchio crossing. It was developed around 1936 by Professor Bruni of Padua University who planted Sauvignon Blanc and Verdicchio adjacent to each other and they then “naturally” crossed. The grape nearly went into extinction but it was revived by consulting wine maker, Giancarlo Soverchia. It is described as being straw yellow with greenish highlights, displaying aromas of exotic fruit and floral notes reminiscing of Moscato, with high acidity.
Grechetto	Also known as Grechetto Bianco, it is believed to have its origins in Greece. Grechetto has been grown in Italy for so long that it is now widely regarded as being native. The grape's thick skin provides good resistance to downy mildew which can attack the grape late in the harvest season. This makes Grechetto a suitable blending grape in the production of Vin Santo. Grechetto wines affected by botrytis display a range of nutty flavors and are labeled as abboccato.
Maceratino	Also known as Aribona, Bianchetta, Uva Stretta the grape is grown almost exclusively in the Marche region on the Adriatic coast and the production of this grape is in decline in favor of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.
Malvasia	Also known as Malmsey, Malvasier, Malvazia, Monemvasia. It is believed to be of Greek origin, the Malvasia family has been commercially important to the Mediterranean for more than 2000 years. Malvasia, the name, is a derivation of the coastal Greek town of Monemvasia. It is grown all over Italy,
Passerina	Also known as Pagadebito Gentile, Campolese and Uva Passera. The term “Passerina” is attributed to those grapes that have small berries often devoid of seeds. Passero is the Italian word for “sparrow” so the name is also used for a genus Passerina which is a group of birds in the Cardinal family Cardinalidae. The grape is believed to be a mutation of Biancame. Passerina vines have mid-sized, pentagonal leaves and small grapes, which grow in medium-to-large clusters. The berry’s skin is quite thick and ripens to a deep golden color. The grapes ripen with a high level of natural sugars, and have correspondingly high acidity, making for balanced wines in all but the hottest sites.
Pecorino	It is also known as Arquitano, Pecorina Arquatanella, Mosciolo, and Vissanello. The name Pecorino is perhaps more widely associated with Pecorino cheese, which is made from ewes' milk (the word means “little sheep”). A classic Pecorino-based wine is straw-yellow in color and has an elegantly floral bouquet of acacia and jasmine, sometimes spiced with a faint hint of licorice. As a blending component, the variety's most common partners are Passerina and Trebbiano.
Pinot Bianco	Known as Pinot Blanc in France and Weissburgunder in Germany. It is a mutation of Pinot Grigio (which is a mutation of Pinot Noir). It typicaly displays aromas of green apple, white flower, and beeswax and it more floral, steely and mineral-driven than Pinot Grigio. It can also be more fleshy and rich in its resiny, honeyed yellow fruit aromas and flavors.
Pinot Grigio	Internationally it is known as Grauburgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Pinot Gris, and Ruländer. In the northeastern regions of Italy it thrives in Trentino-Alto Adige and Veneto, where it produces wines with notes of pear and apple with hints of lemon and a distinct minerality that are dry, crisp with more body and substance.
Trebbiano Toscano	Trebbiano is also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy, Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+ DOCs.
Verdicchio	Verdicchio is the most important grape of the Marches and it has the capacity to produce ageworthy, focused, green-tinged white wines. It is also known as Trebbiano di Soave (in Veneto), Trebbiano di Lugana, Marchigiano, Turbiana. Marche has two DOC titles for varietal Verdicchio wines: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. A classic Verdicchio-based wine has green apple and bosc pear as well as citrus flavors like lemon and grapefruit accompanied by bitter notes when young or a rich, sweet suggestion of marzipan and honey as the wine ages. The late-ripening Verdicchio grape is naturally high in acidity, making it suitable for spumante production and the occasional late harvest wine at the DOC level.
Vernaccia Nera	This Vernaccia grape in Marches is actually a red grape. The name “Vernaccia” probably derives from the Latin vernaculus (“indigenous”) and is used for a number of distinct varieties in Italy.
Welschriesling (Riesling Italico)	Also known elsewhere as Welsch Rizling (Bulgaria), Laški Rizling (the former Yugoslavia), Olasz Riesling (Hungary) and Gras Evina (Croatia). It is unrelated to the Rhine Riesling and its origin is uncertain but the word Welsch means “foreign” in Germanic languages. In Le Marche and elsewhere in Italy it is known as Riesling Italico and is also found in Trentino, Collio and Friuli.
Key Red Grape Varieties
French Varietals	Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) and Syrah.
Ciliegiolo	Pronounced chee-lee'eh-JOH-loh, it is named after the Italian for word “cherry” it is usually a minor component of traditional blends such as Chianti, but it also produced as a varietal wine. It s related to Sangiovese and Calabrese di Montenuovo. It is also known as Aleatico di Spagna,  Brunellone, Criminese, Ciliegino, Ciliegiolo di Spagna, Ciliegiuolo and Ciriegiuolo Dolce.
Lacrima	The grape’s name means “tear” in Italian which is derived either from its tear-like shape, or the fact that its thin skin has a tendency to rupture easily which causes juice to weep out of the grapes and onto the bunch. Lacrima is low in tannins and is considered usually best for drinking in its youth. Its use is mostly limited to Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC.
Montepulciano	Pronounced Mohn-teh-pool-CHAH-nooh, this grape may have originated in the Tuscan town of Montepulciano but it is now more commonly found in Abruzzo. It is NOT to be confused with Tuscany’s wine “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano”; they are both different wines with distinct regions and grapes.
Sangiovese	It is believed to be the offspring of Ciliegiolo x Calabrese di Montenuovo. One theory suggests that “Sangiovese” derives from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, or the “blood of Jove”, while another suggests it derives from San Giovanni (Saint John). It is generally recognized that there are two types of Sangiovese, Grosso and Piccolo. Synonyms include Morellino (Grosseto), Brunello (Montalcino), Prugnolo Gentile (Montepulciano), Sangioveto (Chianti), Sanvicetro (Chianti), Calabrese (Chianti), Montepulciano (Southern Italy), Puttanella (Calabria), Tuccanese (Puglia). Typically it displays aromas of Tart Red Fruit (Sour Cherry, Raspberry), red apple, black cherry, tomato, dried flowers, clove, coffee, as well as balsamic, animal, leather, and tar. Structurally it tends to have medium+ tannins and medium to medium+ acidity and medium to medium+ alcohol.
Vernaccia di Pergola	Also known as Aleatico, the word “Vernaccia” simply means “common” and can be used by locals to refer to a number of indigenous  grapes. The most common grape to use this term is Vernaccia di San Gimignano in Tuscany. However, where as it is a white grape variety Vernaccia di Pergola is red.

The Wines

While studying Le Marche I tasted the following wines:

2013 Colli Stefano Verdicchio di Matelica

This is a clear white wine, straw-yellow in color with green tint around the edge, low concentration with a watery meniscus and medium- viscosity. 

On the nose it is clean with medium+ intense aromas of lemon, melon, lemon pith, green apples, hints of chalk, and dried chives. On the palate it has additional notes of mandarin orange, it is dry with medium+ refreshing acidity, it is medium bodied and has a long citrus and mineral driven finish. This wine sells for $15.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City, California.

2012 San Leopardo Colli Maceratesi Riserva

This wine is a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 10% Cigliegiolo.  It is an opaque red wine, dark ruby and violet in color with moderate concentration and medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of tart black cherries, dried plum, dried roses and violets, minor notes of spice. On the plate it is has flavors of sour cherries, minor notes of tobacco, cigar box, damp earth and spice. It is very dry with medium chewy tannins, moderate acidity and a medium length finish. This wine sells for $23.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2008 Terracruda Lubaco Pergola Rosso

This wine is made from 100% Vernaccia di Pergola (Aleatico). It is aged for at least 1 year in barrique with fining in the bottle.  Afterwards, the wine is matured in oak barrique for 14-18 months and refined for at least 6 months in the bottle. It is a dark opaque red wine, dark purple at the core with medium+ intensity which then turns violet with minimal rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of strawberry preserves, desiccated black cherries, Dr. Pepper, sweet dried plums, wet leather, potpourri, and damp sweet pipe tobacco followed by a scented Christmas candle with a hint of cinnamon and spice. On the palate it is dry with perhaps a slight bit of residual sugar but not enough to make it “off dry”, it has medium tannins, medium acidity and it is full bodied with high alcohol (15% abv.) and a moderate length finish. It is definitely a “unique” wine and unlike anything I have experienced from Italy. It is somewhat reminiscent of some Old Vine Zins and Portuguese varietal wines from the Central Valley and Sierra Foothills of California. This wine sells for $29.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.