Italy Unit 7 - Liguria

 

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Liguria wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

The Liguria region of Italy consists of a 350 kilometer (over 200 mile) narrow band of mountainous coastland south of Piedmont with the Alps and Provence to the west, the Apennine Mountains and Emilia-Romagna to the east and a small border shared with Tuscany in the south-east along the Ligurian sea.

Although there are 100 grape varieties in this region, Liguria is generally known for its domestic white wines and no international white grape varieties are widely grown. The most important white grapes are Bosco, Pigato, and Vermentino. No international red grape varieties are widely grown in Liguria. Well-known Italian red varietals such as Sangiovese and Dolcetto as well as local red varieties including Rossese, and Ciliegiolo.

Following Valle d’ Aosta, Liguria is the second-lowest wine producing region in Italy. It consists of approximately 14,800 acres (6000 ha) of vineyards, of which just over 1,235 acres (500 ha) are classified as DOCs. Liguria's average annual wine production is about 10 million liters (19th in volume among the regions) and about 50% classified as DOC and 9% IGT, with no DOCGs. There are currently over 2,500 vintners, who bottle over 30,105 hectoliters (around 795,290 gallons) of wine per year. There are over 400 producers of IGT, who produce around 3,548 hectoliters (around 93,729 gallons) per year. That is a total of about 2.5 million bottles (208K cases) per year.

Given its limited wine production, little Ligurian wine is exported to North America but fortunately I was able to find several bottles to sample.

Climate
Liguria has a Mediterranean climate.
DOCs Liguria has no DOCGs, 3 IGTs, and 8 DOCs which are as follows:
1. Cinque Terre DOC	Established as a DOC in 1973. Its primary white grape is Bosco, with no red grapes. Bianco and Sciacchetrà must consist of a minimum 40% Bosco and a maximum of 40% Albarola and/or Vermentino. Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà is a sweet white passito wine that is intensely colored, golden-yellow in their youth and turning to amber over the years. They offer aromas of honey and white blossoms, with hints of citrus. The must be aged for 3 full years prior to commercial release.
2. Colli di Luni DOC	Established as a DOC in 1989, it is in both Liguria and Tuscany. The principle white grapes are Albarola and Vermentino. The principle red grape is Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 35% Vermentino and 25–40% Trebbiano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of a 50% Sangiovese. Riserva, requires a minimum of 2 years ageing before release.
3. Colline di Levanto DOC	Established as a DOC in 1995. The principle white grapes are Albarola, Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Vermentino and 20% Albarola.  Rosso must consist of a minimum of a 50% Sangiovese and a minimum of 20% Ciliegiolo.
4. Golfo del Tigullio–Portofino / Portofino DOC	Established as a DOC in 1997. The principle white grapes are Bianchetta Genovese, Moscato, Scimiscià, Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Ciliegiolo and Dolcetto. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Bianchetta Genovese and/or Vermentino.  Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum of  60% Ciliegiolo and/or Dolcetto. Spumante must consist of a minimum of 60% Bianchetta Genovese and/or Vermentino. Passito must consist of a minimum of 60% Bianchetta Genovese and/or Vermentino. Moscato Passito must consist of 100% Moscato.
5. Pornassio / Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC	Established as a DOC in 2003. The principle red grape is Dolcetto, known locally as Ormeasco. Rosso, Passito, Sciac-trà (Rosato) must consist of a minimum of 95% Dolcetto. There are no white wines.
6. Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC	Established as a DOC in 1989. The principle white grapes are Moscato, Pigato and Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Alicante, Rossese. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of 100% Moscato Bianco
7. Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC	Established as a DOC in 1972. The principle red grapes is Rossese. Rosso must consist of a minimum 95% Rossese. Superiore must be aged a minimum of 1 year.
8. Val Polcevera DOC	Established as a DOC in 1999. The principle white grapes are Albarola, Bianchetta Genovese, and Vermentino. The principle red grapes are Ciliegiolo, Dolcetto, and Sangiovese. Rosso and Rosato must consist of a minimum 60% Ciliegiolo, Dolcetto, and/or Sangiovese. Spumante di Qualità and Passito must consist of a minimum 60% Albarola, Bianchetta Genovese, and/or Vermentino.
Key White Grape Varieties
Albarola	A native to Liguria and a key component in the dry white blends of Cinque Terre, the Albarola grape can develop honey, perfume and floral aromas. Since the terrain is steep, viticulture is always carried out by hand and yields are low – the wines, consequently, can be expensive. The sweet wines can age well but the dry style are best consumed within three years of harvest.
Bianchetta Genovese	A native to Liguria. Bianchetta, in Italian means “little white”. The “Genovese” part of its name refers to the city of Genova (Genoa), just a few miles west of the district of Tigullio, and the Genova province in which it is grown. The classic wine style into which Bianchetta Genovese grapes is made is dry, white, refreshing and aimed at the local rather than an international market.
Bosco	Sometimes bottled as a varietal wine but it is more commonly blended with  Vermentino and Albarola grapes. The wines have the tendency to oxidize prematurely, which can diminish Bosco of its lemon scents and noticeably grassy qualities so the wines are best consumed within 2 years of harvest.
Pigato / Vermentino	Pigato means “spotted” from the appearance of the ripe grapes DNA evidence proves that Pigato, is the same varietal as Vermentino, and is known as Favorita in Piedmont and Rolle in Provence, France. It tends to have high acidity and aromas of peach, lemon peel, dried herbs and a saline minerality. In Liguria, Pigato is the principal variety in white wines from the Colli di Luni.
Scimiscià	Synonyms are Çimixâ, Frate Pelato (Liguria), Genovese (Corsica), Raisin Génois, Rossala Bianca (Corsica) and Simixà. The sugar content and acidity are normally higher than locally cultivated vines like Vermentino and Bianchetta Genovese. There are 3.5 hectares in Sicilia but most of it is planted in Liguria.
Trebbiano	Although it is grown in Liguira, the largest concentrations are in Emilia Romagna (30%), Puglia (19%), and Abruzzo (17%).
Key Red Grape Varieties
Alicante	Known locally as Granaccia. Along with Cannonau, Tai Rosso, and Vernaccia Nera, Alicante is another Italian descendant of Garnacha (Grenache), brought to Italy from Spain by the Aragonese in the 15th to 18th centuries. Widespread, especially in the center and south, with the largest concentrations in Toscana (32%) and Sicilia (20%).
Ciliegiolo	The grape's name comes from an Italian word for cherry, a fruit which Ciliegiolo wines resemble both in color and aroma, and it is also known as Morettone. It is widespread in central and southern Italy, with the largest concentrations in Toscana (25%) and Puglia (24%).
Ormeasco	A local clone of the Dolcetto grape it is better known in Piedmont. In Liguria it tends to make brighter-colored wines with a more intense, perfumed bouquet and sweeter tannins, while still maintaining a distinct bitter characteristic. Ormeasco is considered a 'mountain wine' in Pornassio, as this area has steep slopes reach up to 2625 ft (800m) above sea level. Most red varieties struggle to grow in this kind of terrain, as they must contend with premature autumnal frosts but this grape tends to ripen early, giving it the ability to thrive.
Rossese	A mildly aromatic red grape variety thought to have been brought to Liguria, northern Italy from southern France. It is primarily grown in Liguria (49%) and Toscana (31%) and blended with Sangiovese.
Sangiovese	The grape is related to another grape grown in Liguria, Ciliegiolo, as well as Aleatico grown in Puglia. It derives its name from the Latin sanguis Jovis, "the blood of Jove". Although it is grown in Liguria, it is more well-known in central Italy from Romagna down to Lazio, Campania and Sicily.

The Wines

While studying Liguria I tasted the following wines:

2012 La Ginestraia Pigato Via Maestra Riviera Ligure Di Ponente

A clear white wine, moderately intense golden-yellow with a watery meniscus and moderate viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of peaches, canned pear, golden apples, Myer lemon, and white flowers. On the palate it has flavors of dried peaches, pineapple, golden apples and a distinct salty minerality on the finish. It is dry with medium+ acidity, moderate body, and a medium+ length finish. An excellent alternative to the ocean of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc on the market. It sells for $19.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City.

2012 Bruna Maje Pigato Riviera Ligure Di Ponente DOC

A clear white wine, pale straw in color, with a slight green tint around the edges with a watery meniscus at the rim and moderate viscosity. On the nose it has subtle aromas of melon, lime, lemon, celery and a touch of dried parsley. On the palate it has flavors of lemon-lime, melon rind and a touch of salty minerality. It is dry with medium+ acidity, it is light bodied and has a moderate length finish.

This wine loses a lot of character and aromas at anything below room temperature. So I preferred the 2012 La Ginestraia Pigato Via Maestra Riviera Ligure Di Ponente... and it was $10 cheaper! I bought it for $28 Vin Vino Wine in Palo Alto

2013 Giacomelli Vermentino Colli Di Luni DOC

A clear white, wine golden in color, moderate intensity with a watery meniscus and low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of bruised apples, melon, canned pears, lemon and a hint of sea breeze. On the palate it has dried peaches, oxidized apples, dried pineapple, and a distinct salty minerality on the finish. It is dry with medium+ acidity, moderate body, and a medium length finish. This wine is very similar to the 2012 La Ginestraia Pigato which is not surprising since Vermentino and Pigato are the same grape. This wine sells for $18 Vin Vino Wine in Palo Alto.

2013 Cooperativa Agricola Cinque Terre Vendemmia, Cinque Terre DOC

A blend of 60% Bosco, 20% Vermentino, and 20% Albarola. It is a clear white wine, bright gold in color, medium intensity with medium viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense aromas of pineapple, very ripe melon, golden apples, and a hint of sea breeze. On the palate it has additional notes of tangy apricot, dried peach, pear and a salty minerality. It is dry with medium+ acidity, medium- bodied and has a moderate length finish. A lively wine, more complex than the previous wines and well balanced. This wine sells for 21.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City.

Italy Unit 6 - Valle d’Aosta

 

The following are my notes for studying the wines of the Valle d’Aosta wine region of Italy. In these notes I provide information about the topography, climate, soils, important red and white wines and extensive information on the DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I then provide notes on the wines I tasted from this region.

Valle d’Aosta (the Aosta Valley) is also known locally in French as Vallée d’Aoste. It is located in northwestern Italy bordering the Rhône-Alpes, France to the west, Valais, Switzerland to the north and Piemonte to the south and east. As Italy’s smallest and least populous region, most of it too mountainous for agriculture. The principal winemaking region of the Valle d'Aosta is found along the eastern banks of the Dora Baltea (Doire Baltée) river with the city of Aosta, the capital and largest town, serving as the central winemaking location. 

Valle d’Aosta has the smallest wine production of any Italian region as it produces only approximately 220,000 cases per year. Consequently its wines are difficult to find on the international market, but fortunately I was able to find two wines at a specialty shop in San Francisco. Valle d’Aosta is an easy region to study as it has just one DOC with no DOCGs or IGPs, but it does have seven distinct sub-appellations.

Climate
Valle d’Aosta has a continental climate with long, cold winters and short, hot summers.
Valle d’Aosta DOC The only DOC is Valle d’Aosta, however it does have 7 sub-appellations and it is common to see them referred to as a DOC. Varietal bottlings and these must contain 90% of the grape indicated on the label.
1. Arnad-Montjovet			This subzone produces only red wines and the main grape is Nebbiolo known locally as Picotendro or Picoutener. The blend from this subzone must consist of at least 70% Nebbiolo with Dolcetto, Pinot Nero, Neyret, Freisa and Vien de Nus comprising the rest of the blend. Wines labeled Superiore must have been aged for at least 12 months prior to release. The rain shadow of the western Alps provides the vineyards with warm, dry summers and low levels of rainfall. Steep vineyard sites ensure an efficient exposure to sunlight during ripening and most vineyards are located on the eastern side of the valley which gives them more sun in the late afternoon. A significant diurnal temperature variation slows ripening, ensuring that acidity is not lost as the grapes develop rich flavor intensity.
2. Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle			The Morgex et de la Salle vineyard zone covers the south-facing slopes from the river's edge up to the 1300m (4265ft) contour line within the two municipalities of Morgex and La Salle. It provides the primary production of Prié Blanc. The vineyards consist of small, individual plots surrounded by stone walls which help create microclimates that insulate vines as they capture the daytime heat and radiate it back onto the vines during the cooler evenings.
3. Chambave			Chambave produces dry red wines made from Petit Rouge which must account for at least 70% of the red wines wine with the remaining 30% being Dolcetto, Gamay Fumin, and/or Pinot Nero. The region also produces white wines from Moscato Bianco which range from dry and aromatic to sweet and honeyed labeled passito or flétri, depending on their alcohol content.
4. Donnas			This subzone produces only red wines made from a minimum of 85% Nebbiolo (Picotendro) Nebbiolo with the remaining consisting of local varieties such as Petite Rouge, Fumin, Freisa and Neyret. Donnas wines must be aged for at least 24 months (10 months in oak), whereas other Aosta sub-appellations only require 5 months. Superiore must be aged 30 months prior to release.
5. Enfer d’Arvier			The name “Enfer” is French for “Hell” which is derived from very hot summers as the vineyards in Arvier sit at high altitudes of up to 3000 ft (900m) above sea level providing hot days with high solar intensity which then cool quickly at night during the growing season. In addition, the soils consist predominantly of sandy loam, from glacial origins, which store warmth during hot days, reflecting it back on the vines at night. This is a very small subzone consists of 12 acres (5 ha) of vines grown on the steep, south-facing slopes above the river Dora Baltea  located just 16 miles (25km) from Mont Blanc on the border of France. It produces red wines made from at least 85% Petit Rouge with the remaining 15% Vien de Nus, Neyret, Dolcetto, Pinot Nero and Gamay.
6. Nus			This subzone produces two distinct wines: Nus Rouge made with at least 50% Vien de Nus, with Petit Rouge (30%) and other authorized vines (20% max). To qualify for superiore status, the wine must be aged for 8 months prior to release, instead of the usual 5 of other subzones. The other wine from this region is white, Nus Malvoisie made from Pinot Grigio, either dry or sweet made from air-dried grapes whichare labeled as passito or flétri depending on their levels of alcohol.
7. Torrette			Torrette is the largest of the seven sub-regions of the Valle d'Aosta Torrette DOC. It covers the steep slopes of the Dora Baltea river valley between Arvier and the city of Aosta itself. It produces red wines that must be at least 70% Petit Rouge with Pinot Noir, Gamay, Fumin, Vien de Nus, Dolcetto, Majolet or Prëmetta. Valle d'Aosta Torrette wines are required to age for 5 months before they are released and superiore requires at least 8 months before being released for sale.
Key White Grape Varieties
Prié Blanc	Also known as Blanc de Morgex, Blanc du Valdigne, and Agostena it is responsible for the still and sparkling wines of La Salle, grown at one of Europe’s highest vineyard elevations on the slopes of Mont Blanc. Ampelographers believe it is one of the oldest grape varieties in the Valle d'Aosta. Recent DNA analysis has connected it to the Spanish wine grapes of Lairén in Andalusia and Albillo in Ribera del Duero and province of Ávila. However, it is not yet known if the grape originated in Spain and traveled to Italy or whether it originated in Italy. There have are two clones of Prié blanc found in the Valle d'Aosta region,  Valdigne and Valpelline although the latter is is now considered largely extinct. It is used make dry wines with "fresh" acidity levels and aromas of white flowers and hay. But it is also used to make dessert wines and metodo classico sparkling wines.
Pinot Grigio	Known locally as Malvoisie, internationally it is known as Grauburgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Pinot Gris, and Ruländer.
Key Red Grape Varieties Approximately 60% of Valle d’Aosta’s wines are red which include the following.
Bonda		DNA evidence has confirmed that there is some link between the grape and Mossana as well as with the Nosiola grape of the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol wine region of northeast Italy. It is close to extinction with less than 3 hectares (7.4 acres) of old vine vineyards in existence around Châtillon and Quart in the Valle d'Aosta. The few producers who still make wine from Bonda usually use the grape as a blending component with other red grapes.
Crovassa Nera		Also known as Croassa Crovassa, it is an indigenous red grape variety rom the border area of ​​Italy / Switzerland in the towns of Donnas and Issogne. It is only cultivated in small quantities and is nearly extinct.
Mayolet		Also known as Majolet, Majolet Bon Vin, and Maiolet. It is usually blended with Petit Rouge in several Aosta Valley sub-zones, most notably Torrette, the dominant variety of the region, but is occasionally made into varietal wines. Along with Petit Rouge, it is a parent variety to the Rouge du Pays grape variety that is cultivated in the Valais region on the other side of the Alps in Switzerland.
Nebbiolo		Known locally as Picotendro, Picotendo or Picoutener it provides a high proportion of the blend for Donnas and Arnad-Montjovet reds.
Neyret		Also known as Negret, Neiret, Neirette, Neret, Neret Gros, Neret Picciou, Neret Rare and Serre. It is NOT the same grape that goes by the same name in Tuscany, which also goes by Bonamico. This Neyret is a crossing of Mayolet and Roussin used to produce Rosso and rosé wine. Frequently blended with Nebbiolo in Arnad and Montjovet
Petit Rouge		Ampelographers believe is this is an indigenous grape to the Valle d'Aosta but it may be the same variety as the red Swiss wine grape Rouge de Valais. It is the primary grape in wines from Torrette, Chambave, and Enfer d’Arvier
Pinot Nero		A synonym for Pinot Noir, grown internationally it is also known as Blauburgunder, Blauer Spätburgunder, and Spätburgunder. It Italy it is grown predominantly in the north, with the largest concentrations in Lombardia (59%), Trentino–Alto Adige (12%), and Veneto (9%) and is frequently used to produce Metado Classico sparkling wines.
Prëmetta		Also known as Prié Rouge, Prié Neblou, and Primaticcio. It is a thin-skinned, low-pigment grape variety used in the production of rosé and rosato natural (lightly colored red wine) and some spumante. It is an early-ripening vine with large pink-orange colored grapes. It produces wine that is low in tannins with sour cherry and strawberry flavors and is best consumed young. It is grown only in a few high-altitude vineyards near the Swiss border.
Fumin		A dark-skinned grape variety indigenous to the Aosta Valley. It almost became extinct but was saved by a few dedicated producers. It is often blended with other local and international grapes, adding a purple-ruby color and firm structure.
Gamay		A French Beaujolais grape, in Italy it is primarily grown in Umbria (51%), Toscana (17%), and Valle d’Aosta (14%).
Ner d’Ala		Also known as Gros Vien and Vernassa this blue/black grape that grows in large, pyramid-shaped bunches. It is grown around the towns of Montjovet and Arnad. But also found in very minute quantities in the more central parts of the region. It has faced near extinction but it is still found in the vineyards of Chatillon, Saint-Denis, Nus, Quart and Saint-Christophe. It tens to ripen shortly before Nebbiolo.
Vuillermin		First documented under the name Vuillermin in 1890, the grape was virtually extinct until it was discovered by ampelographers at the Institut Agricole Régional of Aosta growing in isolated vineyards in communes of Châtillon and Pontey. In 2011, DNA analysis showed that Vuillermin was the offspring of Fumin.

The Wines

While studying Valle d’Aosta I tasted the following wines:

2009 Feudo Di San Maurizio Vuillermin

A dark opaque red wine, dark purple/black at the core to violet at the rim with minimal rim variation, medium+ viscosity. Moderate intense aromas of stewed and dried plums, blackberries, teriyaki beef jerky, and damp autumn leaves. On the palate it is dry with moderate tannins, medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $48.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.

2008 Feudo Di San Maurizio Fumin

A dark opaque red wine, dark purple/black at the core to violet at the rim with minimal rim variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose its has moderate intense aromas of dried black fruits, stewed plums, dark red cherries, hints of smoked meat, leather, and sweet pipe tobacco and just a hint of spice. On the palate it is driven by black fruit and smoked meats with sour cherries and spice on the finish. It has medium tannin, medium/medium+ acidity and a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $29.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco.