The following are my notes for the Advanced Study of the Wines of Spain covering North-Central Spain. The notes include information about the history, topography, climate, soils, important red and white grapes, the various Denominación de Origen (DO) of the region and the wines I tasted during this study.
Geography and Climate
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| Cantabrian Mountains |
North-Central
Spain essentially comprises the three autonomías of Navarra, La Rioja,
and Aragón. The region is sheltered by the Pyrenees Mountains to the northeast,
which divides Spain from France, and the Cantabrian Mountains to the northwest.
This creates a rain shadow effect, which provides higher temperatures further
inland during the summer and
gives the region a Continental climate. The
Ebro River, Spain’s second longest river (after the Tagus River), flows from
the western Cantabrian Mountains in a southeasterly direction toward the
Mediterranean, passing though the Rioja DOCa.[1]
History of North-Central Spain
and Rioja
Winemaking in
North-Central Spain goes all the way back to when the
first Phoenicians settled in the region 11th Century BC. Then centuries
later came the Romans who planted many of Rioja’s vineyards. However, Rioja was
isolated by its land-locked geography which diminished the export of their
wines. From the 8th to the 14th century, Spain was
occupied by the Moors who, due to being Muslims, generally did not partake of
alcoholic beverages. Then in 1492 the Moors began being pushed out of Spain by
Christians who then founded
monasteries and planted vineyards throughout North Central Spain. Subsequently pilgrims
on their way to the shrine of St. James at Santiago de Compostela passed
through the region and returned back home with news about the quality of the
region’s wines. During this same time Spain began exporting to the New World
where it acquired American Oak for making wine barrels.[2]
By the 1700s communication and transportation infrastructure
of North-Central Spain had advanced to the point where Bilbao (just north of
the Rioja) had become a major trading center.
Then in the mid-1800s Phylloxera, followed by powdery mildew,
devastated the vineyards of France, which resulted in a large demand for
Spain’s wines. France then became a major influence on winemaking techniques in
Spain including the use of the French barrique-style barrels of 60 gallons (227
L) although many of the barrels continued to be made from American oak. By the
end of the 19th Century, Rioja exported to France about 13 million
gallons (a half-million hectolitres) of wine per month.
At the beginning of the 20th Century Rioja experienced
its own Phylloxera infestation at which time France had grafted most of its
vines over to Phylloxera-resistant American root stock. Then came WWI and Spain
lost the market to its former colonies, which was then followed by Prohibition
and WWII. These were difficult times for Rioja winemakers. It wasn’t until the
1960s that Rioja began to increase its exports when a new road system was built
linking it to Bilbao, which enabled them to expand its foreign markets.[3]
Traditional Vs. Modern Rioja
Over the past few
decades two “schools” of winemaking have developed. The traditional “old-school” Rioja, originally
influenced by the French and particularly Bordeaux in the 1800s, involves grapes that are ripe but
not super-ripe with quicker fermentations followed by long aging in
old American oak barrels. The result is
a wine that shows a lower intensity of color with distinctive indications of age
such as more brick and orange hues and strong notes of vanilla and dill.
The second style is a more “modern school” which has greater
influence from “New World” winemakers which creates a more intensely colored wine with less developed
signs from aging thus the wine maintains its brilliant blue-purple hue. The aim
is to create wines that have bigger, riper, bolder fruit and the
use of more expensive, new French oak barrels which impart more vanilla and
cedar notes into the wine.[4]
Marqués de Riscal
One of the most important names in Rioja is Camilo Hurtado
de Amézaga. In 1836, while living in Bordeaux, he learned from French
winemakers and then in 1858 he decided to experiment with French methods and
varieties on his estate at Elciego, within the sub-region of Rioja Alavesa. He was the first in
Spain to use barriques and he planted Cabernet Sauvignon, which adapted well to
the Rioja terroir so it played a key role in his wines, especially those known
as “Reserva Médoc”.[5]
His wines soon began winning prizes and he caught the
attention of King Alfonso XII who designated him “Marqués de Riscal” (A Marquis
is a nobleman ranking above a count and below a duke). His wines became so
popular that, in order to avoid frauds, he invented a wire-netting that would
make it impossible to extract the cork without breaking it, a tradition that
remains until this day. The winery has remained in the family and today it is
led by Don Francisco Javier Hurtado de Amézaga (born in 1947) who is known as
“Paco,” a common Spanish nickname for those called Francisco.[6]
In October 2006 the winery also became a well-known hotel and
Michelin-starred restaurant that was designed by Frank
Gehry. It became was then designated “The City of Wine” which includes
the Marqués de Riscal Hotel and two restaurants overseen by Riojan chef Francis
Paniego, who received his first of several Michelin stars in 2004. Under the
restaurant is the historical cellar known as “The Cathedral” which stores
bottles from every vintage since the first harvest in 1862.[7]
Today it owns 500 hectares (1235 acres) of vineyards and
controls another 1,000 hectares to produce more than six million bottles a year
and over 60% of its production is exported to more than 100 countries.
The winery’s flagship
wine is Barón de Chirel Reserva
(around $65), whose 1986 bottling was the inaugural vintage. The Finca Torrea (around $25) was first
released in 2009 and it represents a modern Rioja with a fruit-forward style
made from the old Tempranillo and Graciano vines planted around the Elciego
winery. Both wines are aged in French oak barrels but American oak is still
preferred for the traditional Reservas and Gran Reservas.[8]
Marqués de Riscal also owns a
third winery in Zamora, near the border with Portugal, where it produces Riscal 1860 Roble. The wine is made
from about 85% Tempranillo (Tinta
de Toro) with the remainder of the blend being Syrah
and Merlot.[9]
The Grapes of North-Central Spain
The most commonly planted grapes of Spain were listed in
the Introduction. But there are some unique and less common local varietals
in North-Central Spain as
well.
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White Grapes
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Alcañon
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Also known as
Viura, Macabeo or Macabeu. It is widely grown in Rioja, the Cava producing
areas south of Barcelona, and the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. It
is mostly used to produce mildly acidic and young white wines or for blending
with other white and red varieties. It is the primary grape of white Rioja and
is sometimes blended in small amounts with Tempranillo and red Garnacha, both
in un-oaked and oaked versions. It was introduced in Rioja after the
phylloxera epidemic, where it largely replaced Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca,
partially because of the ability of its wines to better withstand oxidation.
It is also used in Reserva and Gran Reserva white Rioja subjected to extended
ageing that can span decades, resulting in a highly distinctive and aromatic
wine.[10]
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Garnacha
Blanca
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Also known as Grenache Blanc in the
Southern Rhône, it is a light-skinned variation of Garnacha Noir. It
is grown in the northeast regions of Spain and is most commonly blended as
part of various regional wines, particularly in Priorat and Terra Alta. Grenache
Blanc tends to have low fruit expression, are prone to oxidation and have
excessive body, so it is often used either for blending or for fortified
wines precisely for its oxidative evolution.
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Malvasía
de Rioja
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Also known as Sibirat Parent, Rojal, Blanca Roja and
Blanquirroja but it is a different grape than the Malvasia of Italy. The
vines produce clusters of reddish-yellow grapes and very aromatic wines.
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Maturana
Blanca
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It is the oldest grape variety known in Rioja, mentioned
as early as 1622. It is also known as Ribadavia and Maturano. It creates
wines that are greenish-yellow, with fruity aromas of apples, bananas, quince
and citrus fruits, with herbal notes and area high in alcohol, high acidity but
low in pH.[11]
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Moscatel
de Grano Menudo
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Also known as Muscat Blanc à
Petits Grains, while technically a white grape, there are strains that
produce pink or reddish brown berries. In fact, the same vine can produce
different colored berries from year to year.[12]
It is used to produce aromatic sweet wines.
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Moscatel
Romano
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Also known as Muscat of
Alexandria, it is considered an “ancient vine” and one of the oldest
genetically unmodified vines still in existence.[13]
In Spain it is commonly found in around Málaga, Alicante, Valencia, and the
Canary Islands. It is used to produced aromatic sweet wines.
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Tempranillo
Blanco
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In 1988 this grape was discovered by a wine grower near
Murillo de Río Leza in the La Rioja province of northern Spain. It is a
mutation of the red Tempranillo grape variety. While the red grape is planted
widely in Spain and Portugal, Tempranillo Blanco is only found in the Rioja
wine region of Spain. In 2007, the Consejo Regulador of Rioja
officially sanctioned the use of Tempranillo Blanco in the DOC wines of
Rioja.
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Turruntés
de Rioja
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This grape should not be confused with the Galician or Argentinean
variety known as Torrontés. The cluster is medium-sized and compact, with
medium-sized, spherical berries. Those with greater sun exposure may acquire
a golden color with dark spots. The vine buds and ripens early and produces
wines that are pale yellow with greenish hues with aromas of apples with a
vegetal, grassy notes. The wines tend to have low alcohol and high acidity,
with a low pH and significant concentration of tartaric acid with low
potassium.[14]
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Verdejo
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The grape originated in North Africa and was
spread to Rueda in about the 11th Century, possibly by Mozarabs
(Christian arabs). It is now best known in the Rueda region of Spain. The
grape is easily prone to oxidization so it was originally used to make a
strongly oxidized, Sherry-like wine. Today modern wine making techniques such
as night-time harvesting, cool fermentation and the use of an inert gas
blanketing have led to the delicate and youthful aromatic freshness of the
wines being preserved. It is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to add body
and richness to Sauvignon's aromatic lift. Typically Verdejo dominated wines
are crisp with soft, creamy, nutty overtones, and sometimes accompanied by
notes of honey. Arguably Spain's finest white grape variety
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French
Varieties:
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Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
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Red Grapes
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Tempranillo
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The dominant red grape in North-Central Spain is Tempranillo (also known
locally as Tinta del Pais, Tinto de Toro and Tinto Fino)
except in Bierzo, which favors Mencia. The name is derived from the Spanish word temprano
(“early”). It is native to northern Spain and is widely cultivated in Rioja
and as far south as La Mancha. Table wines tend to be ruby red in color, with
aromas and flavors strawberries, plum, tobacco, vanilla, leather and herbs.
In Portugal, it is known as Tinto Roriz and Aragonez and is used to make
fortified Port wines.
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Garnacha
Tinta
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It is also known as Garnatxa, Tinto Aragonés (Madrid),
Grenache (France) and Guarnaccia (Italy). It is a late ripening variety so it
needs hot, dry conditions to achieve full maturity. It is generally spicy,
berry-flavored (raspberry and strawberry) with a subtle, white pepper spice notes.
Structurally, it tends to be soft on the palate due to low tannin and acidity
yet with a relatively high alcohol content. As it ages the wines tend to take
on more leather and tar flavors. Garnacha is highly prone to oxidation with
even young examples having the potential to show browning (or “bricking”)
coloration that can be noticed around the rim when evaluating the wine at an
angle in the glass. It is commonly blended with Carignan and Tempranillo or
outside of Spain with Syrah and Mourvèdre. It is also used in the pale
colored rosados of Rioja.
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Graciano
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Also known as Bastardo Nero, Morrastel (France), and
Graciana (Argentina) it is grown primarily in Rioja DO (395 ha, 0.7%) where
produces low yields and is a key component of Gran Reservas in Rioja and
Navarra, contributing structure and aging potential. It produces wines with
intense black fruits, red cherries and red plums and can be very long lived.[15]
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Mazuelo
(Carignan)
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Also known as Carignan Noir, Carignane, Carignano,
Mazuelo, Gragnano, Pinot Evara, and Samso. The grape is native to Aragon in
northern Spain (specifically the town of Cariñena). It is found in
wines along the Mediterranean coast and in France's Languedoc-Roussillon
region. It grows best in warm, dry climates and it produces wine with black
fruits, pepper, licorice, spice and savory accents with deep color, high
tannins, and acidity.
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Maturana
Tinta
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A rare and near-extinct
grape found in the Rioja-Alta sub-region of Rioja, it is a relatively
late-ripening variety that produces wines with aromas of sweet peppers and
mountain herbs similar to Syrah and Cab Franc, but it is more frequently used
to add acidity to other wines. There is also a mutated Maturana Blanca
variant that goes by the name Ribadavia, which it takes from the
town of Ribadavia in Galicia.[16]
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Monastrell
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Also known as Mataró and Mourvèdre (France), it is grown
in the Valencia DO and Jumilla DO. It tends to produce wines with aromas of
red fruits, with wild game and/or earthy notes that are tannic wines that are
high in alcohol. Young wines can come across as faulted due to the reductive,
sulfur notes and “barnyard” aromas that mellow with age.
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Moristel
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Also known as Concejón, Juán Ibáñez, Miguel de Arcos and
Miguel del Arco. It is a minor Spanish red grape variety found in the
autonomous region of Aragon and is one of the authorized varieties of the
Somontano Denominación de Origen DO. It has medium-sized, compact bunches
with medium-sized, cylindrical-shaped berries with a blue hue. It produces
light-bodied red wines with moderate acidity and tannin. It is rarely used
for varietal wines, and is more commonly blended with Parraleta and other
varieties to add body and color to the wine.[17]
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Parraleta
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Also known as Carcajolo Nera, it
is a rare dark-skinned grape variety primarily grown
in Somontano and makes up less than 2% of the total acreage.
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French
Varieties:
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Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir
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Denominación de Origen (DO) of North Central
Spain
There are 6 DO/DOCa in the North-Central Spain which are
as follows:[18]
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Rioja DOCa
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Established as
a DO in 1925, it was the first region in Spain to be designated as
Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) in 1991. Rioja is located partly
within the Basque country. It is named after the Oja, a tributary of the Ebro
River, which it follows from Haro in the northwest to Alfaro in the southeast.
Rioja has 3 climatically distinct subzones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and
Rioja Baja. Rioja Alavesa is the smallest, northernmost zone (it is located
within Basque country) and Tempranillo here often produces vino joven wines
for early consumption. Carbonic maceration may be employed for such wines.
Rioja Alta is the southwestern zone has a slightly warmer climate. Rioja Alta
and Rioja Alavesa share a similar soil structure, with a high proportion of
calcareous clay, whereas Rioja Baja, the hottest sub-region, contains more
alluvial soils and ferrous clay. There are 62,143 hectares (153,558 acres) under vine. The primary white grapes
are Viura (Macabéo),
Malvasía, and Garnacha Blanca. In 2007 Rioja’s Consejo Regulador authorized
6 additional white grape varieties including Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo
Blanco, Turruntés, Verdejo, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc but they cannot account for a more than
a combined 49% of the blend. The primary red grapes are
Tempranillo (approximately 80% of all varieties planted), Graciano, Garnacha,
and Mazuelo (Carignan).
Maturana Tinta is also authorized. These
grapes must comprise a minimum 85% of the red Rioja blend, or 95% if de-stemmed.
Monastel and/or Cabernet Sauvignon may make up the remaining 15% of the
blend. Rosado wines must consist of a minimum of 25% red grapes. Crianza
red wines require a total 2 years of aging prior to release, with a minimum of
1 year in oak. Reserva red wines are aged for 3 years, including 1 year in
oak. Gran Reserva red wines must age for at least 2 years in cask and 3
years in bottle. Rioja casks must be 225 liters. Rioja white wines and rosado
crianza and reserva wines must be aged for 2 years, and gran
reserva wines must be age for 4 years all of which require a minimum 6
months in cask. White and rosado crianza wines may be aged in
a non-oxidative environment such as stainless steel but reserva
wines must remain in oak or bottle for the minimum period of aging.
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Navarra DO
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Established as
a DO in 1933. To the north it borders the Basque Country, Rioja, Aragón and
the Pyrenees. It contains 5 subzones: the higher altitude Valdizarbe, Baja
Montaña and Tierra Estella in the north, Ribera Alta in the center of the
zone, and Ribera Baja in the hot southern sector. In addition, 3 estates
recently received their own Vino de
Pago appellations:
Señorio de Arínzano and Prado Irache in Tierra Estella, and Bodegas Otazu in
Valdizarbe.[19]
The region has diverse micro-climates with cooler mountainous areas and warm,
sun-drenched fertile valleys. The region has 13,500 hectares
(33,359 acres) under vine.
Primary white grapes include Viura, Chardonnay, Mostcatel de Grano
Menudo, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca but white grapes account for only about
6% of total vineyard acreage. Primary red grapes include Tempranillo,
Graciano, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon. Others permitted red varietals
include Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Mazuelo. Today red wine accounts for 60% - 75% of the region’s total
production but traditionally Navarra has been known for its Rosado (rosé)
wines made from Garnacha. Ageing requirements are as
follows: Roble – 3 months in oak; Crianza – 24 months in total with at
least 9 months in oak; Reserva – 36
months in total with at least 12 months in oak; Gran Reserva – 60 months in total with at least 18 months in oak.
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Calatayud DO
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Established as
a DO in 1990. It is adjacent to the Campo de Borja DO and Cariñena DO. It has a hot continental climate,
which is counteracted by the height of the vineyards, some of which
are located as high as 1,000 meters. In addition, the River Jalón flows
through the town of Calatayud and provides a significant water source. The
soils consist of limestone, marl and slate. The region has 5,350 hectares (13,220 acres) under vine. The dominant white grapes
are Macabeo (Viura), Malvasía, Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca and
Moscatel. The dominant red
grapes are Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo, Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah and Monastrell.
The Consejo
Regulador divides Garnacha vines into 5 age groups: 1 - 20 years old, 20 -
30 years old, 30 - 40 years old, 40 - 50 years old and over 50 is designated Calatayud Superior.
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Campo de Borja DO
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Established as
a DO in 1980. The region has 7,379 hectares (18,233 acres) under vine. The
vineyards are divided into 3 key areas according to their altitude, each has
its own style of wine: The lower lying area (350-450m) around Magallón and
Pozuelo de Aragón produces structured and aromatic wines and here Garnacha
ripens relatively early; around Ainzón, Borja and Feudejalón (450-550m) the
wines are more structured and intense and in the highest areas, which include
parts of Ainzón and Fuendejalón as well as Tabuenca and El Buste (550-700m),
the finest and most elegant styles are sourced. The soils are well-draining
an consist of limestone, chalk and clay. The dominant white grapes are Macabeo,
Moscatel, Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. The dominant red grapes are Garnacha,
Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
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Cariñena DO
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Established as
a DO in 1932. Located to the east of Calatayud, it is the largest of
the DOs of Aragón. There
are 16,000 hectares
(39,537 acres)
under vine. The dominant white grape is Viura, but Garnacha Blanca,
Moscatel Romano and Chardonnay
are also grown. The DO is named after the Cariñena grape, yet ironically there are far
more acres of Garnacha
under vine. Tempranillo, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Syrah are also grown. The
ageing requirements are as follows: Crianza
6 months oak, 12 months bottle; Reserva
12 months oak, 12 months bottle; Gran
Reserva 24 months oak, 36 months bottle.
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Somontano DO
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Established as
a DO in 1984. The name Somontano means “beneath the mountain” as it lies in
the foothills of the Pyrenees near Catalonia. There are 4,675
hectares (11,552
acres) under vine. The dominant
white grapes are Chardonnay, Macabeo,
Gewürztraminer, Alcañon and Garnacha Blanca, there is also a small amount of
Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. The
dominant red grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Tempranillo, Moristel, Syrah, Garnacha Tinta, Pinot Noir and Parraleta. The
ageing requirements are as follows: White wines - Roble – 45 days minimum in oak. Crianza – at least 18 months total aging with a minimum of 6
months in oak. Red wines: Roble –
90 days minimum in oak. Noble – at least 18 months oak and bottle ageing in
total. Crianza – at least 24 months
oak and bottle age in total including at least 6 months in oak. Reserva – at least 36 months oak and
bottle age in total. Gran Reserva –
at least 60 months oak and bottle age in total.
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While studying
North-Central Spain I tasted the following wines:
2005 Viña Gravonia - R.
López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, SA Rioja DOCa
This
wine is made from 100% Viura, it was aged 4 years, being racked twice a year
and fined with fresh egg whites. It is a clear white wine, pale-gold in color
at the core to a watery edge with moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean
with pronounced aromas of quince, fresh peach skins, honeycomb and
butterscotch, French vanilla with hints of almonds. On the palate it is dry
with HIGH acidity and medium body with a very prolonged nutty and dried apricot
finish. This beautiful wine sells for $27.99
at The Spanish Table in Berkeley, CA
1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real, Rioja
DOCa
This is an opaque red wine,
dark purple at the core to ruby with brown-brick tint around the rim and
medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has medium+ intense aromas of dried cherries,
fig, dried prune, over ripe black bananas, and black licorice. On the palate it
is dry with fine medium tannins, medium+ acidity and a medium+ length finish.
While this wine is “interesting” it is past its prime and doesn’t represent
what you might typically look for in a Rioja. Yet this wine was given 94 points
by Wine Enthusiast (5/2015). It isn’t my habit to give wine scores but if I did
I’d give it 84 points, as it should have been opened 10+ years ago. This wine
sells for $49.99 at K&L in Redwood City.
2001 Ontañón
Gran
Reserva, Rioja DOCa
This wine is a blend of 95%
Tempranillo and 5% Graciano. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core
to violet at the rim with minimal variation and medium+ viscosity. On the nose
it has medium intense aromas of very ripe strawberries, blackberries, boysenberries,
violets and cedar with hints of paprika and tomato with just a touch of
vanilla. On the palate it has dry and yet the fruit is quite lively and
youthful even though it has 14 years on it. It has medium+ tannins and yet they
are quite refined, it has medium+ acidity and medium body with a medium+ length
finish. A well-balanced wine with good quality/price ratio for only $28.99 at
K&L in Redwood City, CA.
2007 Campo Viejo Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa
This wine is a
blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Mazuelo. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple
at the core to ruby at the rim with a touch of brick around the edge and
medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has medium intense aromas of very ripe
strawberries, black cherries, cedar and smoke with hints of paprika, tomato,
vanilla and dill. On the palate it has dry and yet the fruit is quite lively
and youthful even though it has 7 years on it. It has polished medium+ tannins,
medium+ acidity and medium body with a medium+ length finish. A well-balanced wine
with good quality/price ratio for only $23.99 at BevMo.
2008 Marqués De
Murrieta Reserva, Rioja DOCa
This wine is a
blend of 93% Tempranillo, 4% Mazuelo, 2% Graciano and 1% Garnacha
Tinta. This is an opaque red
wine, dark purple at the core to ruby at the rim with a hint of brick-red
around the edge and medium+ viscosity. On the nose it has moderate intense
aromas of baked strawberries, cedar, tobacco, tomato and vanilla with a hint of
black pepper. On the palate it is dry with medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity and
a moderate length finish. It sells for $24.99 at The Spanish Table in Berkeley,
CA.
2009 Herederos Del Marqués de Riscal Reserva, Rioja DOCa
This wine is a
blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo aged 2 years in American
oak. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to ruby at the rim with
a slight tinge of red-brick and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with
medium+ intense aromas of baked strawberries, dusty black berries, black pepper,
paprika, barbeque potato chips, cedar and vanilla. On the palate it is dry with
medium tannins, medium body and a medium+ length spice driven finish. I picked this up for only $14.99 at
Trader Joes but I’ve seen it elsewhere for $21.99 to $29.99.
2012 Breca “Old Vine Garnacha”, Calatayud
DO
This wine is made
from 100% Old Vine Garnacha. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core
to violet at the rim with minimal variation, staining tears and medium+
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with medium+ intense aromas of black plums,
blackberries, boysenberries, dark chocolate, mocha, violets, and intense fresh
cracked black pepper that is more upfront than the fruit. On the palate it is
very dry with supple medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, it is full bodied with
high alcohol (15.5%) and yet the wine remains balanced as there is no alcohol
“burn”. In fact, the alcohol actually gives the wine a hint of sweetness. The
wine has a long finish with lingering notes of boysenberries and spice. It
sells for $17.99 at The Spanish Table in Berkeley, CA but it is on sale at
BevMo for only $14.99.
2012 Borsao “Tres Picos”
Garnacha, Campo de Borja DO
This wine is made
from 100% Old Vine Garnacha. It is an opaque red wine, dark purple at the core to
violet at the rim with minimal variation, staining tears and medium+ viscosity.
On the nose it is clean with medium+ intense aromas of black plums,
blackberries, black cherries, dark chocolate, mocha, violets, with a hint of
black pepper and smoked meat. On the palate it is dry with supple medium+ tannins, medium+
acidity, it is full bodied with high alcohol (15%) and yet the wine remains
balanced as there is no alcohol “burn”. It is very similar to the 2012 Breca
“Old Vine Garnacha” but far less intense pepper notes. This wine sells for $13.99
at K&L in Redwood City, CA.
[1] John Radford, The
New Spain: A Complete Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell
Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 70.
[2] Jesús
Barquín, Luis
Gutierrez, Victor De La Serna, The Finest
Wines of Rioja (University of California Press, 2011), 7-10.
[3] Jesús
Barquín, Luis
Gutierrez, Victor De La Serna, The Finest
Wines of Rioja (University of California Press, 2011), 8, 11.
[4] Jesús
Barquín, Luis
Gutierrez, Victor De La Serna, The Finest
Wines of Rioja (University of California Press, 2011), 50-51.
[8] John Radford, The
New Spain: A Complete Guide to Spanish Wine (Mitchell
Beazley; 2nd edition, 2006), 80.
[10] Jancis Robinson, The Oxford
Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press, 2006),
414.
[12] Oz
Clarke & Margaret Rand, Encyclopedia of Grapes (Webster
International Publishers, 2001å), 146.
[19] Vino de
Pago (VP, Denominación
de Pago or DO Pago) is a classification for Spanish wine that is applied
to individual vineyards or wine estates, unlike the Denominación de Origen (DO)
or Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) which is applied to an entire wine
region.