The following
are my notes for studying the wines of the Loire
Valley region of France. In these notes I’ll provide information about the viticultural history, topography,
climate, soils, important red and white grapes and the AOCs of the regions. I
also include notes on the wines tasted during in the French Wine Scholar class
(FWS – 05 Loire Valley).[1]
Introduction to The Loire Valley
The name “Loire” comes from
Latin Liger, which is itself a transcription of the native Gaulish
(Celtic) word liga, which means “silt, sediment, deposit, alluvium”.[2] The Loire Valley runs East-West
from the center of France to the Atlantic Ocean. Running through the Loire
Valley is the Loire River, the longest river in France at 1,012 kilometers (629
miles long). The Loire Valley is about 2/3 the size of the Bordeaux wine region
with over 185,000 acres (750 km2) planted under vine.[3]
Most books and online sources
talk about the “Lower”, “Central/Middle” and “Upper” Loire as well as the
“right” and “left” banks of the Loire River. Yet when you look at a map it
seems more accurate (at least to me) to talk about the Eastern, Central and
Western Loire since the river runs East-West through the valley with “north”
and “south” banks of the Loire River.
To avoid the confusion in these
notes I’ll talk about the Loire Valley as we look at the map, from Left to
Right, and describe the major regions – the Pays Nantais, the Anjou-Samur,
Touraine and Upper Loire. I’d rather say Eastern Loire but most sources either
refer to it as Upper Loire or Central Loire because the region is in the center
of France.
Viticulture and Winemaking of the Loire
White
Wines
The Loire Valley is home to Melon de Bourgogne, Chenin Blanc,
Sauvignon Blanc and
to a lesser extent Pinot Gris and Chardonnay is also planted. Chaptalization
is allowed in the Loire Valley but only in certain years and under specific
conditions.
Red
and Rosés Wines
Red wines from the Loire Valley
tend to have high acidity. Malolactic fermentation is allowed and due to the
climate chaptalization is allowed in order to achieve the needed level of
alcohol. Rosés are made using either the direct press or saignée method.
Sparkling
Wine
In the Loire Valley the grapes
used to make sparking wine, such as Crémant de Loire, may
vary but all are made using the méthode traditionelle. They
are commonly referred to as “Fines Bullies” (Fine Bubbles) whether they are pétillants,
mousseux or crémant.
Sweet
Wines: Vin Liquoreux
The only grape used for dessert
wines in the Loire Valley is Chenin Blanc. The grapes must either be infected
with botrytis cinecrea (“noble rot”) or
they may undergo passerillage in
which the grapes are allowed to hang and weather on the vine for an extended
period. This is similar to Italian passito
wines, except in Italy the
grapes may be harvested to dehydrate off the vine in special rooms. Once the
grapes are pressed the must is fermented at low temperatures which slows the
process and retains the intensity of the fruit flavors. The fermentation ends
when the alcohol becomes too high leaving behind residual sugar and yet the
wine maintains its acidity which provides a clean non-cloying finish and enables
them to age for decades. Some producers age their wines oxidatively in wood which
adds complexity. The higher-end wines are aged 8 months to several years before
bottling.[4]
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AOCs, IGPs, and Vins San
IGs of The Loire Valley
I briefly discussed the AOCs,
IGPs, Vins San IG hierarchy in the introduction to this study.[5]
Approximately ¾ of the wines in the Loire Valley have AOC status.
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AOC
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The Lorie Valley has approximately
70 different AOCs that produce dry white, red and rosé wines as well as sweet and sparkling wines.
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IGP
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About 9.5% of the Loire Valley’s
production. The largest is Val de Loire which was created in the 1970s with
the goal ot allow greater freedom for grape selection.
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Vins Sans IG
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Approximately 15.5% of the Loire
Valley’s production is designated as Vins San IG.
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The Lower Loire
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Geography of Pays Nantais
The
Pays Nantais is located in what some sources refer to as the “Lower Loire” where
the Loire River empties into Atlantic Ocean. It is primarily a flat coastline
area with few topographical markers. It is bisected by the Sèvre and
Maine Rivers after which the region’s most famous wine is named – Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine.
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Climate of Pays Nantais
The
Pays Nantais has a maritime climate due to the influence of the ocean, it has
cold and damp winters but very little snow. The primary climatic dangers to
the vines are frost, hail and ice storms. Springs are cool, damp and is often
cloudy but the summers are sunny and the region receives about 2,000 hours of
sunshine per year.[6]
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Soils of Pays Nantais
The
Pays Nantais was once home to a lot of volcanic activity so the soil now
consists of eroded volcanic elements. Gneiss dominates the top-soils which is
very porous rock which provides important drainage for vines. The sub-soil consists
of crystalline igneous rocks that were formed when volcanic molten lava
cooled. These soils have a very high mineral content.
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Viniculture of Pays Nantais
Chaptalization
is permitted in the Pays Nantais and the rest of the Loire Valley which can
have insufficient sunshine and heat and excessive rain. However, this is only
done when it is necessary in order to achieve necessary alcohol levels.
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White Grapes of Pays Nantais
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Muscadet
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Made
from the Melon de Bourgogne it is often
referred to simply as melon. While most French wines are named after
the region and those in Alsace are named after the grape varietal, this wine
is the exception as it is named after a characteristic produced by the melon
grape variety - vin qui a un goût musqué – “wine with a musk-like
taste”.[7]
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Folle
Blanche
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Also
known as Gros Plant (“Big Plant”), a vigorous and high yielding vine.
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Pinot
Gris
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A
lesser white wine in the region, it plays a more significant role in Reuilly in the Upper Loire.
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Red Grapes of Pays Nantais
While this is predominantly a
white wine region, there are also some plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Gamay, Malbec, Pineau d'Aunis (also known as Chenin Noir) and Négrette, which is more
common in Southern France.
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AOCs of Pays Nantais
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Coteaux d’Ancenis+Grape Variety AOC
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Currently
there are 4 appellations under the Coteaux d’Ancenis AOC each with the name
of the grape following the AOC:
Coteaux d’Ancenis Pineau de La Loire
Coteaux d’Ancenis Cabernet
Coteaux d’Ancenis Malvoise (Pinot
Gris)
Coteaux d’Ancenis Gamay.[8]
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Fiefs
Vendèens AOC
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Red
Wines: At least 50% Gamay and Pinot Noir with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Négrette.
White
Wines: At least 50% Chenin Blanc with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Melon
making up the balance. The vineyards surrounding the 4 villages are
sub-regions: Brem, Mareuil, Pissoute and Vix.
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Gros Plant du Pays Nantais AOC
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This
AOC produces dry white wines from Folle Blanche (Gros Plant). The best are
planted on sandy soils mixed with granite and gravel on either side of the 2
major rivers, Sèvre and
Maine. If aged on the yeast it may be labeled “sur lie.”
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Muscadet AOCs
The
wine-growing tradition in the region where Muscadet is produced dates from an
edict of the Roman Emperor Probus who had the first vineyards planted by
soldiers. Château de la Cassemichère claims that the first Melon de Bourgogne
vines used to make Muscadet were transported from Bourgogne and planted in
their vineyards in 1740. However, most ampelographers believe that the Melon
de Bourgogne grape was introduced to the Pays Nantais region in the 17th
century by Dutch traders looking for a sufficient source of neutral, white
wines that could be distilled into brandewijn (Brandy Wine). The most common
viticultural hazards in the Muscadet region is winter and spring time frost
and threat of mildew near harvest. The Melon de Bourgogne has adapted well to
these condition being very frost resistant and capable of ripening early.
Harvest usually takes place in mid to late September. [9]
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Muscadet
AOC
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Established in 1936, it is
a regional AOC with a production zone that covers the entire Pays Nantais with 20,305 acres (8,217 hectares)
in 21 villages. Yet
this is not the largest in terms of production.
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Muscadet-
Sèvre et Maine AOC
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Established
in 1936, it is named after the two rivers that through the region (Sèvre and Maine). It extends south
and east of the city of Nantes and consists of 467 acres (189 hectares) with 24 villages spread across
the Loire-Atlantique and Maine-et-Loire departments.[10]
This
AOC produces 75-80% of all Muscadet AOC wine bottled. There are 3 subzones
within this AOC:
(1) Muscadet-
Sèvre et Maine Clisson
(2) Muscadet-
Sèvre et Maine Gorges
(3) Muscadet-
Sèvre et Maine Le Pellet
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Muscadet-
Côtes de Grandlieu AOC
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Established
in 1994, it is located in the southwest of the Pays Nantais. It benefits from the Grandlieu lake’s
microclimate. This sub appellation covers 717 hectares (1771 acres) with 17
villages in the Loire-Atlantique department and 2 villages in the Vendée
department.
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“Middle Loire”: Anjou-Saumur and Touraine
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Geography of Anjou- Saumur
Some
sources divide the Loire into 4 sections separating Anjou-Saumur / Touraine
while others divide the Loire into 3 sections and lump these together under
the banner of “Middle Loire.” The Middle Loire consists of Anjou-Saumur and
Touraine and the vineyards are planted between the cities of Angers and
Tours. Saumur is an
eastern sub-region of Anjou to the west of Chinon in Touraine and is the
Loire’s center for sparkling wine production.
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Climate of Anjou- Saumur
The
Middle Loire is at a crossroads of the maritime climate of the Lower Loire
and the continental climate of the Upper Loire and the weather patterns are
influence by its neighboring regions. The
influence of the Atlantic Ocean is tempered by the forests of the Vendée
department to the southwest which absorbs the brunt of the rainfall and
winds.[11]
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Soils of Anjou- Saumur
The soils of Anjou consist of
schist and clay marls with pockets of gravel and shale. The vineyard soils
close to the Loire River are composed primarily of carboniferous rock and
schist. Chenin Blanc performs particularly well on these soils. Saumur has
limestone soils intermixed with patches of sand that allows grapes to attain
high acidity and enables the region to perform well in producing sparkling
wine. Red varieties are planted on the patches of sand which produces wines
that have less acid and are more fruit-driven. Vouvray, Montlouis and Amboise
have porous limestone soils (tuffeau) while Chinon and Azay-le-Rideau have
patches of mixed chalk, sand, and gravel while the hillsides have clay. The
white grapes are planted on chalky soils which enable them to maintain high
acidity while red grapes are planted on sands and gravels which produce wines
with more pronounced fruit aromas and flavors. Bourgeil and St.
Nicholas-de-Bourgeil have patches of sandy-gravel mixed with limestone as
well as slopes with pure limestone.[12]
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Viniculture of Anjou- Saumur
Anjou produces both sweet and dry
versions of Chenin Blanc. Approximately 1/3 of Anjou’s vineyards are devoted
to Cabernet Franc and about 45% of Anjou’s total production is devoted to
rosé, made by blending Grolleau with a white grape.
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White Grapes of Anjou- Saumur and Touraine
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Chenin
Blanc
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Known locally as Pineau de la
Loire.
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Sauvignon
Blanc
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Sauvignon Blanc dominates in the
upper Loire, and the twin appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in
particular. Sometimes simply referred to as Sauvignon, it produces
crisp, dry, aromatic wines with sharp and piercing aromas of gooseberries,
nettles, crushed blackcurrant leaves. With age, aromas reminiscent of canned
asparagus can develop. The smell of Sauvignon are due to the dominant flavor
compounds, called methoxypyrazines which also give green notes to two related
grapes – Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.[13]
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Chardonnay
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While
it is a major grape in Bourgogne, in the Loire it plays a supporting role as
a secondary grape in sparkling wines.
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Arbois
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This
grape is usually blended with Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc to produce
Cheverny and IGP wines.
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Pinot
Gris
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While
it is a stand-alone grape in Alsace, in the Loire it is commonly used as a
blending grape in rosé
wines – Vin Gris.
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Romorantin
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Introduced to the Loire Valley in
1519 by none other than King Francois I, the grape was named after the nearby
commune of Romorantin-Lanthenay, the king’s own homeland. Today it is planted
exclusively in Cour-Cheverny. It is described some as being “Chablis-like.”[14]
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Red Grapes of Anjou- Saumur and Touraine
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Cabernet
Franc
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Known
locally as Breton, it is the primary red grape of the Middle Loire.
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Cabernet
Sauvignon
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This
grape is a major player in the Left Bank of Bordeaux but in the Middle Loire
it plays more of a supporting role for Cabernet Franc.
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Gamay
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The grape’s full name is Gamay
Noir à Jus Blanc. According to DNA analysis Gamay is a member of the
vast family of Burgundian grapes that are a cross between Pinot Noir and
Gouais Blanc. In the lower Loire Valley, Gamay’s major role is in Touraine
with Cheverny and Coteaux du Vendômois. Here it is used to make Anjou
Rouge. Some of the higher quality wines are often labeled with the AOC
designation Anjou-Villages.[15]
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Grolleau
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An
indigenous grape to the Loire Valley, it is one of the primary grapes for
making rosé wines.
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Malbec
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Known
locally as Côt, in the Middle Loire it is a blending minor grape in red and
rosé wines.
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Pineau
d’Aunis
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Although it is often referred to
as Chenin Noir it has no relation to Chenin Blanc. It is grown primarily in
the Loire Valley around Anjou and Touraine and is permitted in Cheverny and
Coteaux du Vendômois. It is often treated like Pinot noir and used to make rosé and white wines in both still
and sparkling wine styles. There are two clones of Pineau d'Aunis being
widely propagated - Clone #289 which lends itself more to vin gris
style wines and Clone #235. [16]
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Pinot
Meunier
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Found
in the Touraine AOC and is often used in sparkling wines.
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Pinot
Noir
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Found
in the Touraine AOC and is often used in sparkling wines.
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AOCs of Anjou
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Anjou
Blanc AOC
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At least 80% Chenin Blanc, plus a maximum
of 20% combined Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are grown on white
soils resulting from the weathering of chalk (limestone) from the extreme
Southwest of the Paris Basin.
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Anjou
Rouge AOC
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A “catch all” AOC, made from Cabernet
Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus a maximum of 30% combined Pineau d'Aunis
and Grolleau (maximum 10% Grolleau).[17]
The appellation covers 26 communes in the
Maine-et-Loire, 14 of Deux-Sèvres and 9 of Vienna, mainly south of Angers.
The heart of the appellation is superimposed on the
area of Anjou-Villages. The soil
consists mostly of shale but there are also sub-soils of sand, gravel rolled,
ostracées (the remnants of oyster shells) marl and volcanic rocks.[18]
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Anjou –
Villages AOC
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Dry red wines made from Cabernet
Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Administratively, Anjou Villages can be produced in the
departments of Maine-et-Loire and Deux-Sèvres. Its soil has an oceanic
climate with continental influences and chalk soils, limestone, sand, clay
and silica.
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Anjou –
Villages Brissac AOC
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Red wines are made from Cabernet Franc
and Cabernet Sauvignon. The communes of production include Brissac-Quincé,
Denée, Juigné-sur-Loire, Mozé-sur-Louet, Mûrs-Erigné,
Saint-Jean-des-Mauvrets, Saint-Melaine-sur-Aubance, Saint-Saturnin-sur-Loire,
Soulaines-sur-Aubance, Vauchrétien.[19]
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Anjou –
Gamay AOC
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The wine must be 100% Gamay.
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Anjou
Coteaux de la Loire AOC
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A
small part of the Maine-et-Loire, on the slope of the right bank of the Loire
downstream of Angers.
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Anjou
Mousseux AOC
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Vin Mousseux Blanc is made from minimum
of 70% Chenin Blanc, plus Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grolleau,
Grolleau Gris, Pineau d'Aunis, Gamay, and a maximum of 20% Chardonnay. It is
made in the traditional method and is aged a minimum 9 months on lees.
Vin Mousseux Rosé is made from
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt (Malbec), Gamay, Grolleau,
Grolleau Gris, Pineau d'Aunis. It is made in the traditional method and is
aged a minimum 9 months on lees.[20]
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Bonnezeaux
AOC
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The Bonnezeaux AOC produces only
sweet white wine made from 100% Chenin Blanc. It consists of a 109 ha (270
acres) appellation lying in the eastern part of the Coteaux du Layon around
the Thouarcé village located right on the banks of the Layon. The wines
produced are similar to Quarts de Chaume and Coteaux du Layon’s wines in
style, but are tend to be less expensive. The top 4 producers include: Château
de Fesles, Domaine des Petits Quarts/Godineau, Domaine René Renou, Domaine
Sansonnière.[21]
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Cabernet
d’Anjou AOC
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Made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon. The Cabernet d’Anjou and Rosé d’Anjou appellations overlap with
the AOC Anjou. Cabernet d’Anjou consists of 4,000 hectares (9,884 acres).[22]
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Cremant
de la Loire AOC
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Established
in 1975, the AOC produces sparkling
wine by the traditional method and applies to sparkling wines produced in
Anjou, Cheverny, Saumur and Touraine. The most common grapes are Chenin Blanc
(dominant grape), Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, (also
Pineau de la Loire), Grolleau (maximum 30%) and Pinot Noir. Most are white
wines but rosé wines are also produced. There are approximately 200 producers
of the most popular include Cray-Baumard, Berger, Bouvet Ladubay, Langlois
Château, Delhumeau, Gratien, Nerleux, Oisly et Thésée and Passavant.
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Chaume
AOC
Coteaux
du Layon AOC
Coteaux
du Layon+ Village AOC
Coteaux
de L’Aubance AOC
Quarts
de Chaume AOC
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These
are sweet wines made from 100% late-harvest Chenin Blanc that are affected by
botrytis.
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Rosé
d’Anjou AOC
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Made from Grolleau, Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay, and Malbec. The Cabernet
d’Anjou and Rosé d’Anjou appellations overlap with the AOC Anjou. Rose
d’Anjou consists of
2,400 hectares / 5,930 acres.
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Rosé de
Loire AOC
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The AOC
consists of 2,400 ha (6,000 acres) which
merges with the Anjou AOC area. The primary grapes are Grolleau
(the most frequently grown variety in this AOC area), Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay and Côt (Malbec).
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Savennieres
AOC
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Made
from 100% Chenin Blanc that are almost always dry. The production region is located
on 300 hectares (740 acres) on 3 hills consisting of schist, slate and clay
soils on the north bank of the Loire River.
Coulée de Serrant - The top
enclave of Savennières, Coulée de Serrant was first planted in 1130 by
Cistercian monks. Today Coulée de Serrant, consists of a single estate run by
Nicolas Joly labeled Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.[23]
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Savennieres
Coulee de Serrant AOC
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An
enclave of Savennieres AOC.
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Savennieres
La Roche aux Moines AOC
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An
enclave of Savennieres AOC.
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Geography of Saumur
Located to the east of Coteaux du
Layon on the banks of the Loire river, the Saumur appellation is well-suited
for suited to producing Chenin Blanc, but due to a different climate it has
much more difficulty producing good noble-rotted wines.
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Climate of Saumur
The Atlantic influence is not
quite so strong here as in the Pays Nantais to the west, but it still plays a
major role. Rainfall is on the light side and summers are warm, but spring
frost remains a problem.
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Soils of Saumur
Saumur soils consist of limestone,
it is generally shallow and chalky and not conducive to noble-rotted wine
production, but produce gentle and well-rounded dry white wines.
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Viticulture and Viniculture of Saumur
Anjou-Saumur is a district rolling
hills that hold back chilly winds from the west. The best sites are on
south-facing, rocky slopes and in the Layon river valley. Saumur
is the largest sparkling wine producer in the Loire Valley with more acres
and higher yields for its Mousseux AOCs than the Crémant de
Loire AOC. It also produces still wines, rosés and
red wines.
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AOCs of Saumur
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Cabernet
de Saumur AOC
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Made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon or a blend of the two grapes.
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Coteaux
de Saumur AOC
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Sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc
produced only in years in which botrytis infects the grapes.
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Saumur Blanc
AOC
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Predominantly Chenin Blanc, but up
to 20% Chardonnay in the blend is permissible.
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Saumur
Rouge
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A general appellation for Saumur’s
red wines.
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Saumur-Champigny
AOC
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Established in 1957, the
“Champigny” denomination can be added to the Saumur appellation for the red
wines grown in specially defined areas around 8 villages near Saumur. Saumur-Champigny
is Anjou’s counterpart to Touraine’s Chinon. It consists of red wines made
mostly from Cabernet Franc up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon or Pineau d'Aunis (Chenin
Noir). The AOC consists of 1500 ha (3700 acres) of vineyards located
within the parishes of Saumur and Champigny and 6 of their immediate
neighbors. The soils consist of a plateau of tuffeau, a yellowish metamorphic sandy and porous
rock, that rises up at the eastern edge of the town of Saumur and continues
almost uninterrupted for 11 km (7 miles) to the village of Candes
Saint-Martin. This unique soil regulates water supply to the vines by
immediately absorbing excess water and retaining it for use in the driest
periods. Vines growing in tuffeau-rich soils rarely suffer from excess water
stress but also benefit from dry, free-draining soils.[24]
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Saumur
Mousseux AOC
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This AOC covers sparkling white
and rosé wines made by the traditional method from a blend of Chenin Blanc with up to 20%
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (separately or combined) and up to 60%
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt, Gamay, Grolleau and Pineau
d’Aunis.
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Saumur
Mousseux Rosé AOC
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A sparkling rosé wine produced from vineyards anywhere within
Anjou-Saumur. It can be produced in the departments of Maine-et-Loire,
Deux-Sèvres and Vienne. Saumur sparkling rosé wine are made by the traditional method from a
blend of Chenin Blanc
with up to 20% Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (separately or combined) and up
to 60% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt, Gamay, Grolleau and Pineau
d’Aunis.
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Saumur
Pétillant AOC
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These fizzy white and rosé wines
are made by the traditional method but the appellation is not widely used. They
are made from a minimum of 80% Chenin Blanc, along with Chardonnay and
Sauvignon Blanc and are intended to be consumed young and are not suitable
for ageing.
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The Touraine and its capital Tours takes
its name from a Celtic tribe called the Turones, who inhabited the region about
two thousand years ago.[25]
In 1044, the control of Touraine was given to the Angevins, who (as the House
of Plantagenet) became kings of England in 1154, the castle of Chinon being
their greatest stronghold. In 1205, Philip II Augustus of France regained
Touraine. At this time, Touraine was made into a royal duchy. In 1429, Saint
Joan of Arc had a historic meeting with the future King of France Charles VII
at Chinon. Throughout the late 15th and 16th centuries, Touraine was a favorite
residence of French kings who built 9 castles on tuffeau limestone -
Chenonceau, Amboise, Azay-le-Rideau, Chinon, the Clos-Lucé, Langeais, Loches,
Villandry and Ussé. Later the castles were converted to
Renaissance châteaux and the region was dubbed, “The Garden of France”. Leonardo
Da Vinci died in Amboise, a city in La Touraine, in 1519. The royal duchy
became a province in 1584, and was divided into departments in 1790.[26]
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Geography of Touraine
Some
sources divide the Loire into 4 sections separating Anjou-Samur / Touraine
while others lump these together under the banner of “Middle Loire.” The Touraine stretches from Anjou to the west
to the Sologne region in the east. It is in an area where the Loire and its
tributaries meet, covering 104 communes in Indre-et-Loire and 42 in
Loir-et-Cher. Most of the vineyards are located southeast of Tours, on the
slopes that dominate the Cher, and between the Cher and the Loire.
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Climate of Touraine
Touraine is located at the crossroads of marine
and continental influences. An oceanic climate dominates in the west,
becoming more continental as you move east. A series of east-west facing
valleys provide microclimates favorable for viticulture.
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Soils of Touraine
Touraine has a variety of soils
including flinty clays, clay limestone on a chalk bed, and sand on flint to
the east, as well as gravel stones and sand.
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AOCs of Touraine
|
|
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Bourgueil
AOC
|
Established as an AOC in 1937, Bourgueil
is located north of Chinon. The soils are divided between sand and limestone.
Red and Rosé wines consist of Cabernet Franc plus a maximum of 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon. Communes of Production consist of Benais, Bourgueil, La
Chapelle-sur-Loire, Chouzé-sur-Loire, Ingrandes-de-Touraine, Restigné,
Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Saint-Patrice.[27]
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Cheverny
AOC
|
Established as an AOC in 1993, this
AOC vineyards rather than the wines themselves are regulated as to the
percentages rather than what actually goes into the bottle. The vineyards for
white wines consist of 60-84% Sauvignon Blanc and the remainder is Pinot
Gris, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Arbois. The vineyards for Red and Rosé wines
consist of 60-84% Pinot Noir and Gamay can make up 16-40% Gamay with Cabernet
Franc and Côt
making up less than 10% under the vine.[28]
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Chinon
AOC
|
Chinon soils are broadly divided
into three types: tuffeau,
clay, and varennes. The
sandy, alluvial varennes soils
are closest to the Vienne River (a Loire tributary) whereas tuffeau is more common on the
slopes. The vins de tuffe originating from these limestone
south-facing slopes carry the most promise for wines with depth and ageability.
Chinon Blanc must consist of 100% Chenin Blanc. Red and rosé must consist of
Cabernet Franc plus a maximum of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.[29]
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Coteaux
du Loir AOC
|
First, notice the spelling – it is
Loir not Loire. It is named after the
Loir River not the larger and more well-known Loire River
35km (20 miles) to the south. The AOC consists of 100 ha (240 acres) of
vineyards on tuffeau soils in 22 communes just to the north of
Tours. It produces red, white and rosé wines from Gamay, Pineau d'Aunis, Côt (Malbec),
Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. White wines account for 1/3 of the
total production which includes dry wines and very sweet botrytized wines
made from 100% Chenin Blanc.
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Coteaux
du Vendomois
|
Established
in 2001, Coteaux du Vendomois is
located mainly east of the town of Vendome stretching along both banks of the
Loir River, which is a tributary of the Loire. The vineyards for red wines
must consist of at least 40% Pineau d'Aunis. The remaining grape varieties
are Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. The Vin Gris must be made from 100%
Pineau d'Aunis. White wines are made from Chenin Blanc supplemented by
Chardonnay.
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Cour-Cheverny
AOC
|
Established
in 2003, the region is
spread over 532 hectares (1314 acres), within 24 communes of the Loir-et-Cher
department. White wines consist of 60%–80% Sauvignon Blanc blended with
Arbois, Chardonnay or Pineau Blanc de la Loire grapes. A small amount of
sparkling wine is also produced from 40%–65% Gamay along with Pinot Noir and
up to 15% Cabernet Franc and Côt. Rosés are made from Pineau d'Aunis.
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Crémant
de
Loire AOC
|
The Crémant de Loire production
area covers the appellation zones of Anjou, Saumur and Touraine but it is
primarily made in the Saumur area. It is made from Chenin
Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d'Aunis, with
blending constraints favoring traditional grape varieties.
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Haut-Poitou AOC
|
Established
in 2010, it is named after the city of Poitiers. The vineyards cover 800
hectares (1976 acres) in 40 municipalities. The white wines are made from a
blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc and Pinot
Blanc. The red and rosé wines are made from a blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay,
Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay and Grolleau de
Chaudenay blended. Top producers include Domaine la Tour Beaumont, Robert
Champalou, Gérard Descoux, Cave du Haut-Poitou, Morgreau Jacques, Domaine de
la Rotisserie and Domaine de Ville Mont.
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Jasnières AOC
|
Jasnières AOC is located in the
Sarthe department of the Loire Valley, and covers 65 hectares (160 acres) of vineyards planted
on calcareous-clay hillsides, all facing south or south-east.
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Montlouis -sur-Loire AOC
|
It is
located within the Touraine AOC formerly
part of Vouvray. The wines are very similar in style and may be made across
the same spectrum of styles. It produces white wines made Chenin
Blanc. The wines may be dry or sweet and include Sec (0-.4% RS), Demi-Sec (.04-1.2%
RS), Moelleux (1.2-4.5% RS) and Doux (+4.5% RS). The sweet wines are made
from late harvest grapes, some of which may be affected by botrytis.
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Montlouis -sur-Loire Mousseux
AOC Petillant AOC
|
Produced
from Chenin Blanc, Mousseux has no ageing requirements but Petillant must be aged 9 months sur
lie.
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Orléans AOC
|
The
wines are made from at least 60% Chardonnay (known locally as Auvernat Blanc)
with the remainder of the blend consisting of Pinot Gris but many are 100%
Chardonnay. Dry red and rosés
wines are made from Pinot Noir (Auvernat Noir) and Pinot Meunier (Gris Meunier).
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Orléans-Cléry AOC
|
A red
wine appellation made predominantly from Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon
may be blended in until 2020.
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St. Nicolas de Bourgueil AOC
|
St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is
situated almost wholly on lighter alluvial soils, with a corresponding
lighter style of wine. It produces only red and rosé wine which must consist
of Cabernet Franc plus a maximum of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Rosé de Loire
|
The areas covered by the Cabernet
d’Anjou AOC merged together with those of the Anjou AOC. The principle grape
varieties are Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Touraine AOC
|
Touraine’s largest and most
important white wine district made from Sauvignon Blanc and maximum of 20%
Sauvignon Gris. For red wines the principal varieties are a minimum 80%
combined Cabernet Franc and Côt (minimum 50%). Vineyards west of Tours have a minimum
of 80% Cabernet Franc. Rosé wines consist of a minimum 2 varieties present,
and no variety may exceed 70% of the vineyard. Cabernet Franc, Cot, Gamay,
Grolleau, Grolleau Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Meunier, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris,
Pineau d'Aunis.
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Touraine Mousseux AOC
Petillant AOC
|
Touraine
Mousseux wines can be white, red or rosé. The dominate grapes for white wines are Chenin Blanc
and Sauvignon Blanc. Red and rosé wines are made from Gamay and Cabernet
Franc. Touraine
Petillant can be white, red or rosé
and are the same blend as the Touraine Mousseux except the white wines may also include
Chardonnay.
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Valençay AOC
|
A French appellation for both
wines and goats' milk cheeses. Reflecting the proximity of Reuilly and Quincy
to the east, Valençay's whites are predominantly composed of Sauvignon Blanc.
Red and rosé wines from the appellation are based on Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Côt.
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Vouvray AOC
|
Vouvray consists of a minimum of 95%
Chenin Blanc, plus a maximum of 5% Arbois (Menu Pineau). The tuffeau limestone
subsoil of Vouvray provided soft material for excavation, resulting in an
impressive network of cellar tunnels running underneath the eight delimited
communes of Vouvray. The wines are produced from Chenin Blanc; the rustic
Orbois (Menu Pineau) grape is allowed but seldom encountered. Vouvray may be
produced in a range of sweetness levels: sec, sec-tendre (off-dry),
demi-sec, moelleux, and liquereux. The final decision on residual
sugar is usually a response to the vagaries of each vintage, rather than a
consistent stylistic choice. Vouvray producers may also choose to make a
sparkling wine, a successful strategy in cooler years. The sparkling wines
are made by méthode traditionnelle and may be either pétillant
or mousseux.
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Vouvray Mousseux AOC
Vouvray Petillant AOC
|
Vouvray also produces Vin Mousseux /
Pétillant with a Traditional Method Secondary Fermentation made of 95% Chenin
Blanc, plus a max. 5% Arbois.
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The Upper Loire
Some
books and online sources refer to the Eastern End of the Loire Valley as “Center
Loire” (because it is located in the Center of France) while others refer to it
as the “Upper Loire” due to it being up-stream along the Loire River. The textbook
for the French Wine Scholar Program refers to it as the latter so that is the
term I’ll use in these notes. The Upper Loire is the smallest of the valley’s
sub-regions and it is home to two of the most well known Loire wines – Sancerre
and Pouilly Fumé. Whereas
Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc were the dominant white and red grapes in the
Middle Loire, in the Upper Loire white wines are made almost exclusively from Sauvignon
Blanc and red wines are made from Pinot Noir.
|
Geography of Upper Loire
The Upper Loire is located 125 km (78 miles) south of Paris
and Pouilly is located 112 km (70 miles) west of the northern vineyards of
Bourgogne with no vineyards in between. In the Upper Loire the Loire River
runs north and then northwest from the Massif Central Mountain range near the
city of Clermont-Ferrand.[30]
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Climate of Upper Loire
The Upper Loire has a harsh continental climate so vineyards
are planted near the river to take advantage of its moderating effect.
Winters tend to be cold, Spring is short with some cloudy days and summer is
hot and sunny. Both fog and humidity can be a challenge as they can promote
rot but Sauvignon Blanc is resistant to fungal diseases.[31]
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Soils of Upper Loire
The
Upper Loire has 3 distinct surface soil types with an underlying Kimmeridgean
limestone.
(1) Terres Blanches: A marl rich in
oyster fossils which promotes acidity in wines.
(2) Caillotes: Small limestone pebbles
which also promote acidity in wines.
(3) Silex: Flint, which tends to promote gunflint
/ smoky characteristics in wines.[32]
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White Grapes of Upper Loire
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Sauvignon
Blanc
|
Also
known as Blanc Fumé which
litterlay means “smoky white”, it is the principle white grape in the Upper Loire.
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Chasselas
|
A
prominent grape in the Pouilly-sur-Loire.
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Pinot
Gris
|
The
word “gris” means gray in French. The skins of Pinot Gris grapes are darker
than white grapes but lighter than red ones and can impart a very subtle
color to the wine so in the Loire region it is used to make lightly colored
rosé wines. This
is common in Reuilly
in the Upper Loire.
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Sacy
|
Also
known as Tressallier, it is
cross between Pinot and Gouais Blanc. The grape ripens early, and produces
light-colored wines low in acid and alcohol.
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Red Grapes of Upper Loire
|
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Pinot
Noir
|
Pinot
Noir is the primary red grape of the Upper Loire most famous in red Sancerre but
also in Menetou-Salon and Châteaumeillant. These tend to be lighter wines
than those of Bourgogne.
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Gamay
|
The grape’s full name is Gamay
Noir à Jus Blanc. According to DNA analysis Gamay is a member of the
vast family of Burgundian grapes that are a cross between Pinot Noir and
Gouais Blanc. In the lower Loire Valley, Gamay’s major role is in Touraine
with Cheverny and Coteaux du Vendômois. In the Upper Loire, Gamay plays a
supporting role to Pinot Noir.
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AOCs of Upper Loire
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Châteaumeillant AOC
|
Established
as an AOC in 2010, it is named after the town of Châteaumeillant. The vineyards cover 100 hectares (247
acres) of vineyards in the communes Champillet, Feusines, Néret, Reigny,
Saint-Maur, and Vesdun Urciers in the department of Cher. It specializes in red
and rosé (Vin Gris) wines are made from 60%+ Gamay with the remainder
consisting of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.[33]
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Côte Roannaise AOC
|
Established
as an AOC in 1994, it produces red
and rosé wines from 100% Gamay sourced from 14 communes located just west of
Roanne, in the Rhone-Alpes
administrative region of France. The soils consist of sand, granite as well
as volcanic soils rich in basalt.
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Côte d’Auvergne AOC
|
Established
as an AOC in 2011, it produces white wines are made from 100% Chardonnay
while red and rosé wines are made from 50%+
Gamay with less than 50% Pinot Noir.
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Coteaux du Giennois AOC
|
Established
as an AOC in 1998, it is
named after the town of Gien and covers about 180 hectares (444 acres) of vineyards
planted on chalk and flint soils. It produces white wines from 100%
Sauvignon Blanc while red
and rosé wines are made from Gamay and Pinot Noir. Top producers include
Joseph Balland-Chapuis, René Berthier and Paul Paulat.[34]
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Menetou-Salon AOC
|
The AOC
covers about 330 hectares (820
acres) of vineyards planted on Kimmeridgean soils. It
produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc while red wines from Pinot Noir.
Well-known producers are Domaine de Chatenoy, Domaine Domaine Henri Gilbert
and Pellé.[35]
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Pouilly-Fumé AOC
|
Established
in 1937, the AOC produces only white wines from Sauvignon Blanc that have a
distinctive smoky/flinty character from vineyards planted on flint, giving
the AOC its name as “Fumé”
refers to the smoky bouquet. The soil consists of three major types:
Kimmeridgian marl, limestone and flint clay.
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Pouilly-Sur-Loire AOC
|
Pouilly-sur-Loire
is a lesser-known AOC wine adjoining the more well-known Pouilly-Fumé. It is
located north east of the city of Bourges and comprises 7 communes (Garchy,
Mesves-sur-Loire, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Saint-Andelain, Saint-Laurent,
Saint-Martin-sur-Nohain and Tracy-sur-Loire) on the right bank of the Loire
in the Nievre département. While Pouilly-Fumé is based
on the Sauvignon Blanc grape, Pouilly-sur-Loire white wines are made from the
Chasselas grape grown on less than 50 hectares (123 acres) of vineyards.
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Quincy AOC
|
The Upper
Loire’s first AOC, it is located around
the town of Bourges. It produces only white wines from Sauvignon Blanc from 210 ha (520 acres) of vineyards
planted on a combination of
Kimmeridgian soil, sand
and gravel due to being located between two rivers, the Cher and its
tributary the Yevre.
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Reuilly AOC
|
The AOC was established in 1937
for Sauvignon Blanc and in 1961 for red wines made from Pinot Noir and rosé
wines from Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The vineyards consist of 150 hectares (370 acres) planted
on sandy-gravelly soil and
Kimmeridgian marl along the Cher River located
in 7 communes: Reuilly and Diou in Indre and Lazenay, Chéry, Lury-sur-Arnon,
Preuilly and Cerbois in Cher.
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Saint-Pourçain AOC
|
Established
as an AOC in 2009, it is located on the west bank of the Allier River (a
tributary of the Loire) 144 km (90 miles) south of Sancerre. The vineyards are planted on
diverse soil types, ranging from limestone-marl to the alluvial, sand-gravel
terraces dominating the Allier valley. White wines must consist of at least
50% Chardonnay and 2-50% Sacy with up to 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Rosé wines are made from 100%
Gamay and red wines are made from a blend of 40%+ Gamay and up to 25% Pinot
Noir. This AOC extends over nineteen communes of Allier over a strip of land
5 - 7 km wide (3-4.5 miles): Chemilly, Besson, Bresnay, Meillard,
Châtel-de-Neuvre, Monétay-sur-Allier, Contigny, Verneuil-en-Bourbonnel,
Beneilles-Les-Chantelle, Bransat, Louchy-Montfand, Saint-Pourçain, Cesset,
Montord, Chareil-Cintrat, Fleuriel, and Fourilles.[36]
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|
Sancerre AOC
|
The AOC is located on the left bank
of the Loire at the eastern edge of the Loire Valley. Vineyards cover a
series of hillsides dominated by the “Piton” or peak of Sancerre. White wines
are 100% Sauvignon Blanc (about 90% of production) and red and rosé wines are
made from Pinot Noir Vineyards planted on 3 primary soil types:
(1) Terres Blanches (“white earth”) is compact chalk atop
kimmeridgean marl is characteristic of the western part of the region.
(2) Les Caillottes is gravel and limestone.
(3) Silex (flint) is found in the eastern vineyards.[37]
|
Wines Tasted
The following wines were tasted
in the French Wine Scholar class:
1.
NV Deligeroy Cremant de Loire
A clear white wine, pale lemon
with fine bubbles. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of peach skin, caramel,
cotton candy, and chalky aspirin. On the palate it is dry and somewhat tart
with high acidity, it is light in body with notes of zesty lemon-lime and a
pronounced chalky minerality on a lingering finish. This wine sells for $13.
2. Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sevre et Maine Granite
A clear white wine, pale lemon with
low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with subtle aromas of citrus, white cheese
rind, hints of petrol, and just a waft of white bread. On the palate it is dry
with high acid, medium body with a fairly short finish. This wine sells for $20.
3.
2013 Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre
A clear
white wine, pale lemon in color with low viscosity. On the nose it is clean
with moderate intense aromas of grapefruit, lemon-lime, lemon blossom, jalapeño,
guava and a hint of wet stone. On the palate it is dry with high acid, moderate
body with a very distinctive chalky texture with a medium+ length finish. This
wine sells for $27.
4.
2011 Laporte Pouilly Fumé Les Duchesses
A clear
white wine, lemon in color with a slight green tint around the edges with low
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of grilled
asparagus, lemon-lime, and a very distinctive note of smoky gunflint. On the
palate it is dry with medium+ acid, medium body with a soft mid-palate feel, and
a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $25.
5.
2013 Catherine et Pierre Breton Vouvray “La Dilettante”
A clear
white wine, lemon in color with slight green tint around the edge and low
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate intense aromas of melon,
grapefruit, and some sulfur-like funk. On the palate it is dry with high acid, moderate
body and medium alcohol. This is a very atypical
Vouvray and for $23 I’d say “PASS!”
6.
2013 Domaine de l'Aujardière Val de Loire Rose
A clear
salmon-pink wine with moderate viscosity. On the nose it has subtle aromas of strawberry,
watermelon, cranberry and a touch of spice. On the palate it is dry and tart
with high acidity, moderate body with flavors of jolly-roger fruit watermelon candy
and a touch of spice on a moderate length finish. This wine sells for $15.
7.
2012 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon
This a
moderatly intense opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core with staining tears. On
the nose it is clean with red plums, cherries, pomegranates, hints of green
peppers, with a touch of smoke and slate. On the palate it is dry with velvety moderate
tannins, medium++ acidity, medium body and a medium length finish. A
well-balanced wine that wine sells for $23.
8.
Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon “Les Rouannieres”
A clear
white wine, golden in color with high viscosity. On the nose it is clean with
moderate intense aromas of honey, graham cracker, orange marmalade, and hints
of butterscotch. On the palate it is sweet, medium bodied with high acidity
that provides a long clean finish. A very affordable alternative to Sauternes
or other similar sweet wines, it sells for $25.
[1] I had written and posted notes on the Loire Valley when I was studying
through the International Culinary Center’s Intensive Sommelier (Unit 2 Day 2)
but somehow the notes got deleted from my blog and for some strange reason no
longer exist on my computer.
[2] Montclos, Jean-Marie Pérouse de, Châteaux
of the Loire Valley (H.F. Ullmann Publishing Gmbh 2011).
[3] Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible (Workman
Publishing, 2001), 259-272.
[4] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 166.
[6] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 151.
[7] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby
Wine Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011),
200-201.
[8] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 152.
[9] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby
Wine Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011),
200-201.
[11] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 154.
[12] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 151; Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, The World Atlas of Wine (7th
Edition, Octopus Publishing, 2013), 112-114.
[13] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 612.
[14] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 590.
[15] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 296-297.
[16] J. Robinson, J. Harding and J.
Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including
Their Origins and Flavours (Ecco;
Slp edition, 2012), 804.
[17] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 24.
[18] James E. Wilson, Terroir
(University of California Press, 1998), 240.
[19] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby
Wine Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011),
282-286.
[20] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby
Wine Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011),
282-286.
[21] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby
Wine Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011),
282-286.
[22] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 157.
[23] Jancis Robinson, The
Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd Edition, Oxford University Press,
2006), 614.
[27] Michel Mastrojanni, Vins de
France (Solar, 2001), 31.
[28] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 159.
[29] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 160
[30] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 162.
[31] Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby
Wine Encyclopedia (5th Edition, Sands Publishing, 2011), 162.
[32] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 163.
[33] Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 164.
[37]
Julien Camus, Lisa M. Airey,
Celine Camus (ed), French Wine Scholar Study Manual (French Wine
Society), 165.
