The following are
my notes for studying the wines of the Umbria region of Italy including information about the topography,
climate, soils, important red and white grapes and extensive information on the
DOCs and DOCGS of the region. I also include notes on the wines I tasted from
this region.
Located in central Italy, Umbria is one of five landlocked
regions - all the others are in Northern Italy. It is the only Italian region
having neither a coastline nor a border with other countries. To the west it
borders the well-known region of Tuscany, Marche to the east and Lazio to the
south.
The region includes the Lake Trasimeno, Cascata delle
Marmore, and is crossed by the River Tiber. The small region lies in the shadow
of the Apennines, its climate moderated by maritime winds funneling from the
Tyrrhenian Sea.
Umbria is Italy’s fourth-smallest region and produces only a
third as much wine as Tuscany. Most of the Umbria region's vineyard plantings
are along terraces cut into the hillsides, and are reflected in a number of the
area’s DOC names (colli translates to “hill”). The two most well known regions
in Umbria are Orvieto DOC, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG and Torgiano Rosso
Riserva DOCG.
Climate
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Umbria has a climate and geography similar to Tuscany’s,
with cold, rainy winters and dry sun-filled summers. Areas surrounding
Lake Trasimeno and Lake Bolsena have a mild Mediterranean microclimate.
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DOCs
and DOCGs
Umbria has 12 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata
(DOC) and two Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG).
It ranks 11th among Italian regions in percentage of DOC
classified wines most of which were created after 1980.
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DOCs
and DOCGs
The 13 DOCs in Umbria are as follows:
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1.
Assisi DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1997. The primary white grape
varietals are: Grechetto and Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are:
French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero plus Sangiovese. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Trebbiano and a minimum of 10% Grechetto.
Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Sangiovese and 10–30% Merlot.
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2.
Colli Altotiberini DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1980. The primary white grape
varietals are: Grechetto, Pinot
Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Trebbiano The primary red grape varietals are:
French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero plus Sangiovese. Rosato
must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Spumante must consist
of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio,
and/or Pinot Nero.
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3.
Colli Amerini DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1989. The primary white grape
varietals is Malvasia. The primary red grape varietal is Merlot. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of Trebbiano Toscano grape (70-85%), blended with
Grechetto, Verdello, Garganega and Malvasia Toscana. Rosso and Rosato
is a blend of Sangiovese (65-80%), blended with Merlot, Montepulciano, Cannaiolo,
Ciliegiolo and Barbera.
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4.
Colli del Trasimeno DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1972. The
primary white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot
Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Welschriesling (Riesling
Italico). The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero and Gamay plus Italian varietals Ciliegiolo and
Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 40% Trebbiano Toscano;
minimum 30% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 40% Sangiovese; minimum
30% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Gamay, and/or Merlot. Vin
Santo must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 40% Trebbiano;
minimum 30% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio. Spumante
must be Metodo Classico and consist
of a minimum of a minimum of 70% Chardonnay, Grechetto, and Pinot Nero.
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5.
Colli Martani DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1989. The Todi DOC lies within the
Colli Martani DOC and also produces Grechetto, The primary white grape
varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano.
The primary red grape varietals are: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Pinot Nero, Sangiovese, and Vernaccia Nera. Bianco must consist of
a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso must consist of a minimum of
50% Sangiovese. Spumante must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 50% Chardonnay,
Grechetto, and/or Pinot Nero and a maximum of 10% Malvasia.
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6.
Colli Perugini DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1982. The primary white grape
varietals are: Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and
Trebbiano. The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) and the Italian varietal
Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano. Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Vin
Santo must consist of a minimum of 50% Trebbiano. Spumante
must consist of a minimum of 80% Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, Pinot
Grigio, and/or Pinot Nero and may be Charmat
or Metodo Classico.
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7.
Lago di Corbara DOC
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In English the names means “Lake Corby”,
it was established as a DOC in 1998. It is within the territory of Orvieto,
solid red wines are produced on the tuffeau soils. The primary white
grape varietals are: French varietals Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc plus Italian
varietals Grechetto and Vermentino. The primary red grape varietals are: French
varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero plus the Italian varietal
Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum of 60% Chardonnay,
Grechetto, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Vermentino. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, and/or Sangiovese. Vendemmia
Tardiva must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 60% Grechetto
and/or Sauvignon Blanc. Passito must consist of a minimum
of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Sauvignon Blanc.
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8.
Montefalco DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1980. The primary white grape
varietal is Grechetto. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50% Grechetto and 20–35% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso
must consist of a minimum of 60–70% Sangiovese and 10–15% Sagrantino.
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9.
Orvieto DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1971. The primary white grape
varietals are: Grechetto and Trebbiano. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano Toscano (known locally as Procanico).
Rosso
and Rosato must consist of a minimum of. Muffa Nobile (Botrytis Cinerea “noble
rot”) sweet wines must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 60%
Grechetto and/or Trebbiano and must achieve a minimum potential
alcohol level of 16.0%. Vendemmia Tardiva must consist of
a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano. A new encépagement
engineered in 2003 emphasizes the native Grechetto grape over the blander
Trebbiano Toscana and may lead to a higher base standard of wine in the
future.
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10.
Rosso Orvietano DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1998. The primary red grape
varietals are: French varietals Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
and Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero) plus Italian varietals Aleatico, Canaiolo Nero,
Ciliegiolo, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. Rosso must consist of a
minimum of 70% Aleatico, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo Nero,
Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Montepulciano, Pinot Nero, and/or Sangiovese.
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11.
Spoleto DOC
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Established as a DOC in 2011. The primary white grape
varietal is Trebbaino. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino. Spumante and Passito must consist of
a minimum of 85% Trebbiano.
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11.
Todi
DOC
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Established as a DOC in 2010. The Colli Martani DOC
encompassing the Todi DOC for the production of Grechetto only. The primary
white grape varietal is Grechetto. The primary red grape varietals are:
Merlot and Sangiovese. Bianco must consist of a minimum
of 50% Grechetto. Rosso must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Grechetto
Passito must consist of a minimum of a minimum of 85% Grechetto.
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12.
Torgiano DOC
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Established as a DOC in 1968 and Torgiano Rosso Riserva
became a separate DOCG in 1991 with the assistance of the Lungarotti family,
Torgiano’s largest producer. The primary
white grape varietals are: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, and Welschriesling
(Riesling Italico). The primary red grape varietals are: French varietals Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero plus the Italian varietal Sangiovese. Bianco
must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Trebbiano Toscano. Rosso and Rosato
must consist of a minimum of 50% Sangiovese. Spumante must be Metodo Classico and consist of a
minimum of a minimum of 50% Chardonnay and a maximum of 50% Pinot Nero. Vendemmia
Tardiva must consist of a minimum of 50% Chardonnay. Vin
Santo must consist of a minimum of 50–70% Trebbiano Toscano.
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DOCGs
The 2 DOCGs in Umbria are as follows:
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1. Montefalco
Sagrantino DOCG
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Formerly part of the Montefalco DOC it became Sagrantino
di Montefalco DOCG in 1992 and then the name was changed to Montefalco
Sagrantino DOCG in 2009. The primary red grape varietal is
Sagrantino. Rosso and Vin Santo must consist of 100%
Sagrantino. Rosso, must be aged a minimum of 37 months, including 12 months
in barrel and 4 months in bottle. Passito, minimum 37 months, including 4
months in bottle.
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2.
Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG
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Formerly part of the Torgiano DOC, it became a separate
DOCG in 1991. The primary red grape varietal is Sangiovese and it must be
aged a minimum of 3 years, including 6 months in bottle Riserva must consists
of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese.
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Key
White Grape Varieties
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French Varietals
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Chardonnay and Sauvignon
Blanc
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German Varietals
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Riesling
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Canaiolo Nero
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Introduced by the Etruscans, one theory of
the origin of the name is that it derives from Latin, dies caniculares, meaning “dog days of August” which
refers to the days of a heat wave or the hottest days of the year when this
grape changes color to reddish purple. Another theory is that it is derived
from a flower rosa canina
which is reminiscent of the aroma of the wine. The grape is also known as
Caccione, Merla, Tindillaro, Uva Fosca and in ancient history it was known as
Uva Canaijuola. Until the late 19th Century it was the main grape of the
Chianti blend. It is still grown today throughout central Italy and is used
as a blending grape in a wide range of Sangiovese-based wines. There is also
white sub-variety known as Canaiolo Bianco, which is a permitted grape
variety in the Umbrian wine region of Orvieto where is known as Drupeggio.
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Drupeggio
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A white sub-variety of Canaiolo, also known as Canaiolo bianco, it
is a permitted grape variety in the Umbrian wine region of Orvieto. It is
also a permitted variety for use in Vin Santo production but the grape's
limited ability to raisin sufficiently for use in straw wine production makes
its appearance in these Italian dessert wines very rare.
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Grechetto
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Also known as Grechetto Bianco, it is believed
to have its origins in Greece. Grechetto has been grown in Italy for so long
that it is now widely regarded as being native to Umbria and it is grown widely in Ovieto. The
grape's thick skin provides good resistance to downy mildew which can attack
the grape late in the harvest season. This makes Grechetto a suitable
blending grape in the production of Vin Santo. Grechetto wines
affected by botrytis display a range of nutty flavors and are labeled as abboccato.
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Trebbiano
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Trebbiano is
also known as Ugni Blanc in France where it is used to
produce both Cognac and Armagnac. There are a number of varieties that bear
the name Trebbiano but some of them are not genetically related. In Italy,
Trebbiano Toscano is sanctioned for use in about 85 of the country’s 300+
DOCs.
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Verdello
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It is indigenous to the Umbria region where it has been
recorded growing in the Orvieto region since at least 1894. But today it plays
a minor role as a blending grape. It should not be confused with the
Portuguese wine grape Verdelho as it has no close genetic relationship. But,
it has also been known has also been known under the synonym Verdetto.
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Key
Red Grape Varieties
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French Varietals
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Cabernet
Sauvignon, Gamay, Merlot, Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero)
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Sagrantino
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An indigenous
grape to Umbria grown primarily in the village of Montefalco and its
surrounding areas. The grape is very tannic varieties and it creates wines
that are inky purple with an almost-black center. The bouquet is one of dark,
brooding red fruits, black cherries, ripe blackberry with hints of plum,
cinnamon, and earth. It can be certain smoky at times sappy display pine
flavors and it is typically a wine that is both sweet and savory.
Sagrantino’s high tannins and affinity for oak mean that it matures
particularly well, which is reflected in the stipulation in the local wine
law that it must not be released until it has aged for at least 30 months.
Fortunately, though, Sagrantino’s tannins are more sweet than austere and
modern examples can be quite approachable in their youth.
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Sangiovese
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Sangiovese derives its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove and
it has several synonyms. "Sangiovese" was actually several
"varieties" of clones which are broadly classified as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. Sangiovese wines
tend to be light in color with sour cherry notes and herbal undertones.
Structurally they are naturally high in acidity, firmly tannic, and medium to
full-bodied. When aged, Sangiovese traditionally spends time in large
European (often Slavonian) casks, but modern wines are just as likely to be
aged in new barriques, which infuse both flavor and texture into the wines.
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Vernaccia
Nera
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Vernaccia Nera is genetically identical to the Garnacha of
Spain and Grenache in France as are Cannonau and Tai Rosso, but all of them
have developed in relative isolation for centuries. It is best known in
Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG in Marche Italy.
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The Wines
While studying
Umbria I tasted the following wines:
2013
Argillae Orvieto
This wine is a
blend of Procanico, Grechetto, Malvasia di Candia, Chardonnay and
Sauvignon Blanc. It is a clear white wine, pale straw in color, with a watery
rim and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with medium+ to pronounced aromas
of green apples, pears, cantaloupe
melon, lime, pineapple and white flowers. On the palate it is dry but fruit
forward with medium+ acidity, it is medium bodied with a round, soft luscious
feel and a long finish. A delicious wine,
it sells for $14.99 at Beltramos in Redwood City, California
2011 Antinori “Cervaro della Sala”
Chardonnay
This wine is a
blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Grechetto. The grapes come from
15- to 20-year-old vineyard planted around the Castello della Sala in Umbria.
The vines are planted in clay and marine-fossil rich soils. The Chardonnay was
fermented in barriques and aged there for 6 months, where it underwent
malolactic fermentation, while the Grechetto was aged in stainless tanks. The
wine was then blended and aged in bottle for 10 months before release.
This is a clear white wine, bright golden-yellow with a slight luminescent green in color
with medium concentration and moderate viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate
intense aromas of caramelized apples, canned pears, and citrus with hints of
dried papaya, salted caramel, vanilla and popcorn. On the palate it is dried
with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, moderate+ alcohol and a very long finish. It
is very “new world” in style and could easily be mistaken for a California
Chardonnay. This wine sells for $44.99 at K&L in Redwood City, California.
2008
Antonelli Montefalco Sagrantino
This is an opaque
red wine, almost black at the core to dark purple at the rim with minimal rim
variation and moderate viscosity. On the nose it displays medium- intense
aromas of blackberries, black cherries, raspberries, dried violets and roses, dried
plums, with minor hints of tar and leather. On the palate the nose is confirmed
with additional notes of chocolate covered cherries and dark roasted coffee, it
is very dry but has some medium+ alcohol sweetness, it has medium+ refined tannins, medium+ acidity and has a moderate length finish. This wine sells
for $36.99 at Enoteca Vino Nostro in San Francisco and $34.99 at K&L in
Redwood City. I had bought a bottle and forgot I had it in my cellar so I
bought another, which I will hold for a few years and then compare notes.