On
the Third Day of Unit 6 of the Intensive Sommelier Training at the
International Culinary Center we studied Austria and Hungary. But, due to the
amount of information available for both of these countries I’ll provide a
separate review for these two countries. In this review I’ll provide an
overview of Austria, cover the Austrian learning objectives and then provide a
review of the 7 Austrian wines we tasted in class. In the next review I’ll
cover Hungary, the Hungarian learning objectives and then review the one wine
we tasted from Hungary - a Tokaji Aszu.
Austria (Österreich)
Like
Germany and many other European nations, winemaking has been made in this
region for thousands of years, but its biggest advancements are due to the
efforts of the Romans, Charlemagne and the Cistercian monks of Christian church
that succeeded the Roman Empire. By the 13th century the city of Vienna had
become a major center for wine trade along the Danube River.
The Grapes of Austria
 |
| Grüner Veltliner |
Austria produces less than 40 grape varietals and many are
foreign transplants such as Riesling and Chardonnay. About 65% of Ausria’s wine
production is dedicated to white wines. The most important
white grape is Grüner Veltliner which makes up
about 30% of Austria’s total vineyard acreage. Other important white grapes
include Welschriesling (also known as Laski
Rizling and Olasz Riesling), Müller Thurgau,
Weißburgunder (Weissburgunder/Pinot Blanc), Riesling and Chardonnay (known locally as Morillon or Feinburgunder).
Austria also produces some red wines such Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt,
(which is a cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent) as well as Blauer
Portugieser, and Blauburger (a cross between Blaufränkisch and Blauer
Portugieser). Blaufränkisch (known as Lemberger in Germany and Kékfrankos in
Hungary) typically generates wines of medium weight, with supple texture, deep
color and spicy red and black fruit flavors.
Austria’s “Anti-Freeze” Wine
Scandal
The United States, France and Italy and many other countries have
had wine producers engage in some less-than-honorable winemaking practices and
yet none of them have gained the notoriety as that of Austria.
In the 1860s a viticultural research institute was founded in
Klosterneuburg which in time became the epicenter for creating grape crossings,
trellising systems, vineyards with higher yields, and later the mechanization
of the vineyards. Following WWII wine production in Austria shifted to large
mass production with little focus on producing quality wines. In fact, for a
time they were the world’s 3rd largest producer of wine. By the
1980s this emphasis on quantity over quality took its toll when some producers decided
to artificially sweeten their wines by adding Diethylene glycol (a colorless, odorless, poisonous
chemical). Adding stupidity to criminality, the practice went unnoticed
until one of the guilty parties attempted to claim the chemical tax deduction as
a legitimate winery expense on his tax return. Subsequently bottles in
every market tested positive for the chemical and consumers worldwide
associated Diethylene Glycol with Ethylene Glycol (antifreeze) and the
result was catastrophic for the reputation of the Austrian wine industry.
Austria’s Wine Terminology
Like Germany, to the English-reader Austria has many very long
words that are difficult to pronounce, remember and sometimes understand. Some
of the following, listed according to category rather than alphabetically, may appear
on wine labels:
Austria’s Wine Label
Terminology
|
Weisswein
|
White wine
|
Rotwein
|
Red wine
|
Federspiel
|
Wine with between
11.5% and 12.5% alcohol
|
Smaragd
|
Wine with over 12.5%
alcohol and max. 9 g/l residual sugar
|
Steinfeder
|
Wine with over 11.5%
alcohol
|
Extra Trocken
|
Extra Dry
|
Trocken
|
Dry
|
Halbtrocken
|
Medium-dry
|
Süss
|
Sweet
|
Heuriger/Heurigen
|
New lease wines
served at licensed taverns.
|
Abfüller
|
Bottler or shipper
|
Erzeugerabfüllung
|
Producer-bottled wine
|
Gutsabfüllung
|
Estate-bottled wine
|
Weingut
|
Wine estate
|
Weinkellerei
|
Winery
|
Winzergenossenschaft
|
Winegrowers
co-operative
|
The Wine Laws of Austria
Another challenge to quality wine production in Austria, along
with the rest of Europe’s vineyards, was the arrival of American fungal
diseases (oidium, peronospera) and the root louse. But, in positive
response to this crisis and the “Anti-Freeze” scandal Austrian winemakers doubled
their efforts to steer away from cheap mass quantity wine to focus on better
quality wine. But they have yet to regain their former glory and I have yet to
experience a wine from Austria that were as impressive.
Today Austria’s wine laws and terminology are very similar to
that of Germany with a few minor tweaks. In fact, some of Austria’s wine styles
and terms predate that of Germany. The first record of Trockenbeerenauslese in
Austria dates to 1526, predating Spätlese in Germany by over 200 years.
Austrian wine law defines three levels of quality, all of which
share a maximum yield of 9,000 kg/ha (67.5 hl/ha) but minimum must weights
increase with each level of quality. In ascending order the 3 levels are:
Austrian Wine Levels of Quality
|
Wein
|
A generic category (formerly “Tafelwein”) it may carry a
vintage date and a varietal on the label, but may not exhibit a more exclusive
statement of origin than “Österreich”. May contain under ripe grapes and need
to be chaptalized.
|
Landwein
|
It means “country
wine” and it falls under the Euro-wide IGP category and is roughly equivalent
to France’s Vin de Pays. It may contain under ripe grapes and need to be chaptalized. Production
is restricted to the same 35 varietals permitted for Qualitätswein, but the
wines are labeled with 1 of 3 broad geographic areas (Weinbauregionen): Weinland, Steierland, or Bergland.
Weinland covers the areas defined as Niederösterreich, Wien and Burgenland,
Steierland corresponds to Steiermark, and Bergland includes around 500 ha of
vineyard land scattered throughout the remainder of Austria's mountainous
countryside.
|
Qualitätswein
|
Grapes are sourced from a single Weinbaugebiete or one of the
16 smaller wine regions and may be produced from one or more of 35 permitted
grapes.
|
Prädikatswein
|
This category consists of wines made from late harvest grapes
and beyond.
|
Qualitätswein
accounts for approximately 2/3 of Austria’s total production and the wines are
required to pass a tasting panel and chemical analysis, indicated by a State
Control Number (Prüfnummer) and the
inclusion of the red and white banderole, a banner on the bottle’s capsule or screw
top closure. Qualitätswein may be further subdivided into the categories
of Prädikatswein and Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC),
which are similar to that of Germany, with the additional categories of Strohwein and Ausbruch.
Qualitätswein Ripeness Categories
|
Kabinett
|
In
Austria, Kabinett wines are considered a subset of Qualitätswein rather than
a beginning rung on the ladder of Prädikatswein. Chaptalization and adding
Süssreserve is prohibited.
|
Prädikatswein Ripeness Categories
A minimum alcohol content
of 5% is required for wines labeled by Prädikat.
|
Spätlese
|
Means ‘late harvest’, and denotes that the
grapes were picked at least a week after the start of harvest, at a minimum
of 19 KMW.
|
Auslese
|
Means ‘selected harvest’, and is made from
ripe grapes (min. 21 KMW) affected to some degree by botrytis.
|
Beerenauslese (BA)
|
Means ‘berry selection’. Super-ripe grapes
(min. 25 KMW) remain on the vine and are selected only if affected by
botrytis.
|
Strohwein
(aka Schilfwein)
|
Austrian for “straw
wine,” an additional Prädikatswein wine made from grapes of at least Beerenauslese ripeness that have been dried on straw mats to concentrate their juice.
The result is similar to that of the ice wine process, but suitable for
warmer climates.
|
Eiswein
|
Means ‘ice wine’, and indicates that the
grapes (min. 25 KMW) were harvested and pressed while still naturally frozen.
|
Ausbruch
|
Literal meaning
“break-out” One of two additional Prädikatswein wines, a classification
between Beernauslese (BA) and Trockenbeernauslese (TBA) a sweet dessert wine typically made from grapes affected by
noble rot.
|
Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)
|
Means “dry berry selection”. Grapes are left
on the vine until reaching a botrytized and raisin-like state, with highly
concentrated sugars (30 KMW).
|
|
|
|
Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC)
In
2001 Austria introduced the DAC wine classification system which focuses on
regional typicity. Thus DAC titles convey both a region of origin and the
region’s style of wine. For example, the Kamptal DAC title is reserved
exclusively for the wine styles which best represent the region which are dry Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. This
system is more akin to that of the appellation system of France, Italy and
Spain than the previous traditional German/Austrian system. Each DAC has two
subtly different sub-styles:
DAC Sub-Style Designations
|
Klassik
|
Lighter,
fruit-driven wines.
|
Reserve
|
Slightly
weightier wines, possibly with a subtle influence of oak or botrytis
|
As
of 2013 there were 8 DAC titles, each representing the typical wine style of
its region:
Most of Austria’s lusciously sweet wines are produced around the
lake of Neusiedlersee in Burgenland,
but the vast majority of the country’s white wines are fermented dry which are
the focus of the DAC system. Each DAC prescribes limited grape varietals,
minimum alcohol content and stylistic choices for the producer. Other
wine regions within the 4 major Weinbaugebiete are currently working to define
their own classic styles. The goal is that eventually all of Austria’s 16 smaller
wine regions to gain DAC status.
The
DAC system has not replaced the Prädikatswein system but in regions that have a
DAC title, the designation takes precedence over any consideration of Prädikat.
This dual system can make understanding Austrian wine labels rather
challenging.
For
the consumer, it is easier to identify the quality levels simply by looking for
Austria’s unique capsules and screw-caps, which are decorated with the red and
white stripe’s of the Austrian flag. These indicate that it is a quality wine
that has passed official quality testing procedures.
Klosterneuburger
Mostwaage Scale
In
the USA grape sugar is measured on the Brix scale (named after Adolf Brix) and
in the wine it is measured by grams of Residual Sugar (R/S). In Germany the
sugar in must is measured on the Öchsle (Oechsle) scale. In Austria
grape must is measured on the “Must Weight” scale known as the Klosterneuburger Mostwaage (KMW) scale in
which 1° KMW roughly equals 5° Öchsle or
roughly equivalent to 1 % Brix or 1% sugar content in must.
Minimum Must Weights in Austria
|
Generic Wine
|
10.6° KMW
|
Landwein
|
14° KMW
|
Qualitätswein
|
15° KMW
|
Kabinett
|
17° KMW
|
Spätlese
|
19° KMW
|
Auslese
|
21° KMW
|
Beerenauslese
|
25° KMW
|
Strohwein
|
25° KMW
|
Eiswein
|
25° KMW
|
Ausbruch
|
27° KMW
|
Trockenbeerenauslese
|
30° KMW
|
The Four Weinbaugebietes of Austria
In Germany the major wine producing regions are referred to as Anbaugebiete (QbA), of which there are 13 QbAs.
In Austria the vineyard areas major wine producing regions are referred
to as Weinbaugebiete most of
which are located on the eastern side of the country. From
north to south, the four major Weinbaugebietes
are Niederösterreich, Wien (Vienna), Burgenland, and Styria
(Steiermark).
Niederösterreich Weinbaugebiete
 |
| Niederösterreich Vineyards |
The largest winegrowing region in the Austria is Niederösterreich
(Lower Austria). It has twice the acreage of vineyards as Burgenland, the
second largest Weinbaugebiete. In southern Niederösterreich, the forested
terrain that characterizes western and central Austria yields to the Pannonian
Plain, a former seabed of loess soils stretching from eastern Austria through
Hungary and many countries of the former eastern bloc. It has a continental climate with hot and dry
summers and severe winters. Most of Niederösterreich’s subzones are
located along the Danube River (and its tributaries) as it flows through the
region with the exception of Weinviertel and Thermenregion. Within
Niederösterreich there are 8 subzones: Weinviertel,
Carnuntum, Traisental, Wagram, Kremstal, Kamptal, Wachau, and Thermenregion.
Weinviertel DAC
The Weinviertel DAC is Niederösterreich’s largest subzone and is
located in the hills north of the Danube and the Pannonian Plain, it has a
cooler climate which is expressed in lighter wines. As indicated in the
DAC chart above, the wines must be produced from Grüner Veltliner, with a minimum 12% abv. The wines must then
be approved by a tasting panel and display a distinct peppery note with no obvious
wood or botrytis tones. Reserve
wines are fuller-bodied with a minimum alcohol of 13% and may reveal hints of
both botrytis and wood, supported by the richer character of the wine.
Traisental DAC, Kremstal DAC,
and Kamptal DAC.
The Traisental DAC, Kamptal DAC, and Kremstal DAC have
regulations very similar to Weinviertel DAC. The wines may be produced
from either Grüner Veltliner or Riesling, and may be labeled either “Klassik” (12% abv.) or “Reserve” (13%
abv.) with the same wood and boytris restrictions as the Weinviertel DAC.
The Kremstal DAC and Kamptal DAC are located in western
Niederösterreich along tributaries of the Danube - the Krems and Kamp Rivers.
In 2010, 52 top sites throughout Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram and Traisental were
elevated to the status of Erste Lage (“First
Site”) by an association of producers founded in 1992 known as the Österreichischen
Traditionsweingüter (“Austrian Tradition Wineries”). Although the classification currently has no legal
status, the organization is closely aligning itself to the DAC model and only
Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are permitted to carry the Austrian Erste Lage logo.
Wachau DAC
The Wachau is located in Niederösterreich’s westernmost sub-region.
The Wachau is a narrow band of steep terraced slopes between Melk and Krems
along the banks of the Danube River, which moderates the otherwise severe continental climate. The river
and cool northern winds chill the summer nights significantly which enables the
grapes to retain their high natural acidity. The soil structure is a
combination of loess and gföhler, or gneiss, with a proportion of alluvial sand
in the lower vineyard sites closer to the river. Both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling produce quality wines in this
region and the unique climate, soil, and aspect of the Wachau provide Austria
with some of its most extracted and age-worthy white wines.
The Wachau Classification
System
Rather than using the typical Prädikatswein hierarchy, producers
in the Wachau have developed their own 3-tiered classification system:
Wachau Classification System
|
Steinfeder
|
Named after a local grass found in the vineyards, it is the
lightest style, with a minimum must weight of 15° KMW and a maximum alcohol
of 11.5%.
|
Federspiel
|
Named after a falconer’s tool, it must have a minimum must
weight of 17° KMW and a final alcohol range of 11.5%-12.5%.
|
Smaragd
|
Named after an emerald (green) lizard that basks on the
terraces, it must have a minimum alcohol of 12.5% and a minimum must weight
of 19° KMW - the approximate equivalent of 95° Öchsle, or Spätlese
ripeness.
|
All of these wines must be dry and show a high degree of extract
and display tones of botrytis. Smaragd wines can also reach higher
alcohol levels.
The Vinea Wachau
The vineyard of Achleiten, located in the
village of Weissenkirchen, is home to some of the region’s most prestigious
vines and highest requirements for wine production. The Vinea Wachau (founded in 1983) is an organization of estates dedicated
to uphold the tenets of natural winemaking as spelled out in the Codex Wachau which prohibits additives
(including chaptalization), aromatization (including the use of new barrique),
and “fractionation” (techniques such as de-alcoholization). All wines
released by members must be bottled in the region and vinified from grapes
grown in the Wachau. The Vinea Wachau members control more than 85% of
the region’s vineyard acreage and FX
Pichler, Prager, and Emmerich Knoll are amongst the Wachau’s
finest estates.
Wagram
Until 2007 the Wagram region was previously known as Donauland
and it is located east of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal. Wagram follows
the course of the Danube as it passes out of Vienna. The primary grape of
the region is Grüner Veltliner but
they also produce a white wine from Roter
Veltliner, an unrelated red grape. The rare white grapes Rotgipfler, which is almost exclusively
found in the Gumpoldskirchen district of the Thermenregion, and Zierfandler (also
known as Spätrot which means “late
red”) are also grown here. They are bottled varietally or as the blended wine Spätrot-Rotgipfler.
Thermenregion
Carnuntum and Thermenregion are both located south of Vienna, far
from the moderating effect of the Danube River. Consequently Thermenregion
experiences the very hot Pannonian summers. Carnuntum’s climate is similar to
that of Burgenland and production is geared toward red wines, particularly Zweigelt and traditional field
blends known as Gemischter Satz,
(“mixed set”) which is
a traditional field blend of up to 13 varietals that are co-planted and
co-fermented, which was once a common practice in many regions of Europe.
Burgenland Weinbaugebiete
 |
| Burgenland in Winter |
Burgenland produces some of best Austria’s sweet white wines and
red wines. Bordering Hungary, Burgenland is the other half of Weinland Österreich
and it experiences a hot continental, Pannonian climate. But in Burgenland the
heat is tempered by the cooling influence of the Neusiedlersee lake which divides
the subzones of Neusiedlersee and
Neusiedlersee-Hügelland to the
west. The other two subzones, Mittelburgenland
and Südburgenland, are located to
the south. Burgenland has four DAC zones: Mittelburgenland DAC,
Leithaberg DAC, Eisenberg DAC, and Neusiedlersee DAC.
Mittelburgenland DAC
Mittelburgenland DAC produces red wines from Blaufränkisch, which
are required to have a minimum alcohol content of 12.5% and may be sold after
March 1 in the year following the harvest. Reserve wines are required to have an additional year of aging and
have a higher minimum alcohol content of 13%. Although many producers in the
region are experimenting with barriques, the regulations require that large
casks or used barrels be utilized when barrique-aging wines.
Leithaberg DAC
The Leithaberg
DAC is located in the district of Eisenstadt within Neusiedlersee-Hügelland. It
is the first DAC to allow both red and white wines. White wines may be
blends or single varietals produced from Grüner
Veltliner, Chardonnay, Neuburger, or Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc, Klevner). The Leithaberg DAC also produces red wines, which must consist of
at least 85% Blaufränkisch, with similar regulations as Mittelburgenland on barrique-aging
wines.
Eisenberg DAC
Eisenberg is located in Südburgenland and it is predominantly a
red wine region. There are approximately 150 hectares (370 acres) of Blaufränkisch (also spelled Blaufraenkisch) as well as Zweigelt
and its parent grape, the thin-skinned, low-tannin St. Laurent (Sankt Laurent).
Neusiedlersee DAC
Neusiedlersee gained DAC status in 2012 for Classic and Reserve
red wines based on Zweigelt. The area is located in the heart of the Pannonian climate zone
and extends from the North on to the eastern shore of Lake Neusiedl.
The Sweet Wines of Burgenland
While there are some white wines being produced in Burgenland they are in
decline. However, there are some
of sweet wines coming out of this region such as from the village of Illmitz in
Neusiedlersee where the Alois Kracher estate produces Eiswein, Beernauslese
(BA) and Trockenbeernauslese (TBA).
In Neusiedlersee-Hügelland in the town of Rust they produce Ausbruch, a traditional sweet wine
dating to the 17th century. The method for producing for Ausbruch is
similar to the process of Tokaji (which will discussed in the next review on
Hungary). Ausbruch is created by adding richly concentrated botrytis-affected grape
must to less concentrated grape must that was derived from fruit harvested in
the same vineyard. The two grape musts are then fermented together and aged in
barrel before release. Like Tokaji, traditionally Furmint grapes were used
but modern Ruster Ausbruch is more
often produced from Chardonnay, Muskateller, Grauburgunder, Neuburger,
Welschriesling, Traminer and Pinot Gris.
Styria Weinbaugebiete
Styria (Steiermark) is a mountainous region to the south of
Burgenland. There are 3 subregions (Südsteiermark,
Weststeiermark, and Südoststeiermark) but no DAC zones.
The region is home to approximately 9% of the Austria’s vineyards which are
planted to Welschriesling, Weißburgunder and Sauvignon Blanc which performs
especially well in the Südsteiermark. In the Weststeiermark, the ancient Blauer Wildbacher, which dates back to
the time of the Celts in the 16th century, comprises over 95% of the
red grape acreage and is often used to create a rosé known as Schilcher.
Wien (Vienna) Weinbaugebiete
Austria’s capital Wien (Vienna) lies on the Danube River and is
surrounded on 3 sides by the Niederösterreich subzones of Thermenregion,
Carnuntum, Weinviertel, and Wagram. It has over 700 ha (1,730 acres) of
vines making it the only capital city in Europe to have its own wine
appellation within city limits. Viennese winemakers commonly produce Gemischter
Satz and heuriger, a primeur wine
consumed young in taverns of the same name. In 2013 Wiener (Viennese)
Gemischter Satz received its own DAC.
Learning Objectives of Unit 6
– Day 3: Austria
At
the beginning of class lectures a list of learning objectives is provided to
the students. By the end of the class, the students should have a certain
degree of understanding from their own reading and the lectures and be able to
provide the answers to a list of questions. The Learning Objectives Unit 6 -
Day 3 for Austria along with the answers are as follows. The questions and
answers on Day 3 for Hungary will be provided in the next review.
By
the end of class, students should be able to answer the following questions:
(1) Name
2 white grapes and 2 red grapes of Austria
Answer: White grapes = Grüner Veltliner,
Welschriesling.
Red grapes = Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch
(2) Name
2 major regions and 2 sub-regions of Austria
Answer: 2 major regions = Wien, Burgenland.
2 sub-regions = Weinviertel DAC, Kremstal DAC
(3) Define
the terms Ausbruch and Strohwein
Answer: Ausbruch literally means “break-out”. It is one of two additional Prädikatswein wines, a classification
between Beernauslese (BA) and Trockenbeernauslese (TBA) a sweet dessert wine typically made from grapes affected by noble
rot. Strohwein
is Austrian for “straw wine,” it is an additional Prädikatswein wine made from grapes that
have been dried on straw mats to concentrate their juice.
(4)
Describe the attributes of any Austrian wines tasted today
Answer: See below
The Wines
On
the first day of Unit 6 we tasted the following wines from the Austria and Hungary:
1. 2010 Pratsch Grüner Veltliner, Rotenpullen
Weinviertal
This
is a clear white wine, straw in color with a touch of green at the rim, day
bright with low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of
oxidized green apples, green peas, melon rind and a hint of white pepper. On
the palate it has flavors of zesty citrus and melon with a salty minerality and
a touch of white pepper. It is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, medium+
alcohol, low complexity and a medium length finish. This wine sells for about $20
per bottle.
2. 2011 Nigl Grüner Veltliner ‘Priva’
Senftenberger Pellingen Kremstal
This
is a clear white wine, straw in color with a touch of green at the rim, day
bright with low viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of melon,
lemon-lime and a hint of white pepper. On the palate it has flavors of zesty lime,
grape fruit and melon rind with hint of white pepper. It is dry with medium+
acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol, low complexity and a medium length
finish. This wine sells for about $32 per bottle.
3. 2011 Weingut Leo Alzinger Loibner Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau
This
is a clear white wine, straw in color with a watery rim, star bright with low
viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of melon, lemon-lime
and a hint of white pepper. On the palate it has flavors of ripe grape fruit,
zesty lime, and melon rind with hint of white pepper. It is dry with medium+
acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol, low complexity and a medium length
finish. Of the three Grüner Veltliners we tasted I preferred this one
over the other two wines. This wine
sells for about $33 per bottle.
4. 2009 Heidi Schrock Grauburgunder
Neusiedlersee
This
is a clear white wine, yellow-gold in color with a watery rim, star bright with
medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of oxidized
apples, lime, jasmine, blanched almonds, with a hint of honey and floral soap.
On the palate it has flavors of oxidized apples, jasmine, bees wax and nuts on
the finish. It is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol, low
complexity with an oily texture on the mind palate and a medium length finish. This
is a 5-year-old Pinot Gris which I think is a bit past its prime. This wine
sells for about $20 per bottle.
5. 2011 Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heilgenstein Kamptal
This
is a clear white wine, yellow-gold in color with a watery rim, star bright with
medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate aromas of lime, mango,
white peach, white flowers and a hint of petrol. On the palate it has flavors
of lemon-lime margarita mix, canned fruit cocktail and bitter orange peel on
the finish. It is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, medium+ alcohol, and a
long finish. This wine sells for about $35 per bottle.
6. 2009 Nikolaihof Riesling
Steiner Hund Reserve Wachau
This
is a clear white wine, straw in color with a watery rim, day bright with
medium- concentration and viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate+
aromas of rose water, floral soap, gardenia, Old Spice shaving cream, ginger
and a hint of lemon-lime. On the palate it has flavors of rose water with a
round mouth feel and a minute amount of melon. It is dry with HIGH acidity,
medium body, medium+ alcohol, and a long finish. This wine is unbelievably
floral and many people in the class liked it, but I didn’t care for it. This
wine sells for about $60 per bottle.
7. 2010 Prieler Blaufränkisch Ried Johanneshöe Burgenland
This
is an opaque red wine, dark ruby at the core to garnet at the rim with medium
concentration and medium viscosity. On the nose it is clean with moderate
intense aromas of cooked blackberries, black pepper with a hint of leather and
smoked meat. It has flavors of dried black fruits, bramble bush, loads of fresh
cracked black pepper with a hint of clove and black licorice. It is dry with
medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body and a medium length finish. While
all this may sound appealing and the wine in some ways seemed like a blend of
Zinfandel and Syrah, the wine wasn’t harmonious, the way the flavors come
across seem disjointed and the fruit seemed tired. I have only experienced Blaufränkisch
on two previous occasions so I don’t have a good basis for comparison, but I
suspect that there is no such thing as a fine bottle of Blaufränkisch.
This wine sells for about $22 per bottle.
